07 February 2024

On Rue Saint Séverin in
the Latin Quarter and how
a mediaeval street survived
the rebuilding of Paris

Early morning on Rue Saint Séverin, a charming cobbled street in the Latin Quarter of Paris, off the Boulevard Saint-Michel (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2024)

Patrick Comerford

We are in Paris for two nights, staying in the heart of the Latin Quarter in the Hotel Europe-Saint-Séverin on Rue St Séverin, a few steps away from the Boulevard Saint-Michel.

The Latin Quarter (Quartier latin) is in the 5th and the 6th arrondissements of Paris, on the Left Bank (Rive Gauche of the Seine, around the Sorbonne. It is the oldest area in Paris, popular with tourists and known for its student life, lively atmosphere, and the bistros and streetside cafés.

The area gets its name because Latin was widely spoken in and around the university during the Middle Ages, after the 12th century philosopher Pierre Abélard and his students moved there.

The Latin Quarter was largely spared the sweeping renovations of Baron Haussmann and so in many parts it retains its ancient feel, with winding, cobblestone streets that are reminders of what mediaeval Paris once looked like. From the food stalls on Rue Mouffetard to the Jardin des Plantes, the Pantheon, and the Cluny Museum, there is much to see and do here during these few days.

The Latin Quarter is home to many centres of higher education, including the Sorbonne, PSL University with the École Normale Supérieure, and les trois lycées de la montagne: the lycée Henri-IV, the lycée Louis-le-Grand and the lycée Saint-Louis.

In the engravings of the street name on some corners, the word ‘Saint’ was scratched away after the French revolution in 1789 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2024)

The Rue Saint Séverin is just 170 metres long, running parallel to and south of the Seine. We are three to five minutes from the Quai de Montebello, with the cranes and hoardings surrounding Notre Dame rising above the river, the Petit-Pont and the cruise boats.

The street and the hotel take their name from the nearby Church of Saint-Séverin, the Église Saint-Séverin, at the east end of the street, one of the oldest churches on the Left Bank. It was first built in 1230 and later was a parish church for students at the Sorbonne.

Ths a short narrow street, but it is busy – almost boisterous, I imagine, when tourists arrive in greater numbers. It is lined with restaurants and souvenir shops and because of its location and because it is a pretty street it attracts many tourists.

The rue Saint-Séverin is one of the oldest streets in Paris, and dates from the creation of the Latin Quarter in the early 13th century. At first it only stretched the short length between the Rue de la Harpe and the Rue Saint-Jacques, and in the 16th century this section of the street was called the Rue Colin Pochet.

Later, this street was extended west from the former street to join the Rue Saint-André-des-Arts. The Rue Saint-Séverin reclaimed the remnants of the ancient Rue de Mâcon after the Boulevard Saint-Michel was built from 1867, but from 1971 this isolated westward portion was renamed the Rue Francisque-Gay.

The sign No 13, Le Cygne de la Croix, is a play-on-words of ‘the sign of the Cross’ and predates street numbers in addresses (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2024)

Among the houses and buildings of note on the street, Nos 7, 9 and 11 date from the 17th century. No 13 still has a name sign that predates street numbers in addresses – this one is Le Cygne de la Croix, a play-on-words of ‘the sign of the Cross’ and ‘the Swan on the Cross.’

At numbers 4, 24 and 26, on the engravings of the street name on the corner of the buildings, the ‘St’ was scratched away after the French revolution in 1789.

No 6 has an alleyway that existed as early in 1239, No 8 has a door and alleyway that date from the 16th century, while No 34 is a building dating from the 17th century, with a remarkable doorway, arch engravings, courtyard and internal stairway.

Numbers 20, 22 and 36 date from at least the 17th century. No 20 is a 17th century rotisserie or grill, No 22 is a 17th century hotel, and the building at No 36 was known in 1660 as l’auberge de l’Étoile.

The Hotel Europe-Saint-Séverin, where we are staying, is at numbers 38-40 Rue Saint Séverin, on the corner with the Boulevard Saint-Michel, and with the Italian Trattoria RIM Café on the ground floor.

No 6 Rue St Séverin has an alleyway that existed as early in 1239 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2024)

Daily prayer in Ordinary
Time with French
saints and writers
5: 7 February 2024

Canon Frederic Anstruther Cardew (1866-1942) … known in Paris as the ‘chorus girls' friend’

Patrick Comerford

We are in Ordinary Time, the time between Candlemas and the 40 days of Lent, which begins next Wednesday.

Charlotte and I arrived in Paris yesterday, and we are staying here for two days. So, in these 11 days in Ordinary Time, my reflections each morning are drawing on the lives of 11 French saints and spiritual writers.

As this series of reflections began, I admitted I am often uncomfortable with many aspects of French spirituality, and that I need to broaden my reading in French spirituality. So, I have turned to 11 figures or writers you might not otherwise expect. They include men and women, Jews and Christians, immigrants and emigrants, monks and philosophers, Catholics and Protestants, and even a few Anglicans.

I am taking some quiet time early this morning for reflection, prayer and reading in these ways:

1, A reflection on a French saint or writer in spirituality;

2, today’s Gospel reading;

3, a prayer from the USPG prayer diary.

Canon Frederic Anstruther Cardew at the wedding of Lord Dudley and Gertie Millar in Paris in 1924

French saints and writers: 5, the Revd Canon Frederic Cardew (1866-1942):

Saint George's Church, the main Church of England church in Paris, is at 7 rue Auguste Vacquerie, just a few steps from the Arc de Triomphe. Although the present church is a modern church dating from 1978, the church dates back to 1824.

Saint George’s is one of two Church of England congregations in central Paris, the other being Saint Michael’s. There are four other Church of England congregations in the suburbs. Paris also has an American Episcopal Church at avenue George V.

Saint George’s says it seeks, ‘in the very heart of this busy city, to be a place of the holy, a place of silence and of prayer,’ where visitors may experience ‘something of the wonder and loving mystery of our God, and may feel drawn gently into His sacred presence.’

The foundation stone of ‘old Saint George’s’ was laid in 1887 on the site of the present church. That church was high in both senses – Victorian Gothic and Anglo-Catholic. The church, with its colourful chaplains and curates – including Father Frederic Cardew and his ministry to English ‘dancing-girls’ – survived two World Wars and the Nazi occupation of Paris, and in more recent decades became the centre for Anglican-Roman Catholic ecumenism.

Throughout much of the first half of the 20th century, Canon Frederic Anstruther Cardew (1866-1942) was known in Paris as the ‘chorus girls' friend.’

He was born in Mean Meir in Lahore, now in Pakistan, on 6 March 1866, a son of Colonel Sir Frederic Cardew, an army officer in India, and Clara (Newton) Cardew. Sir Frederic was later the Governor of Sierra Leone (1894 -1900).

Canon Frederic Cardew had many prominent church figures in his family. His aunt Lucy Cardew was married to Frederick William Farrar (1831-1903), Dean of Canterbury; his first cousin Maud Farrar married the SPG secretary, Bishop Henry Montgomery (1847-1932) from Moville, Co Donegal, and they were the parents of Viscount ‘Monty’ Montgomery of Alamein.

Frederic Anstruther-Cardew was still in his late teens when he went to Canada in 1884, volunteered to fight Indians and sought adventure as a cowboy in the US. He returned to England, was ordained in 1891.

He was Precentor of Brisbane Cathedral when he married Norah Skye Kington in Saint Mary Abbots Church, Kensington, in 1894. Her father, Colonel William Miles Nairne Kington (1838-1898), played cricket for Gloucestershire. In Australia, Cardew was the Vicar of Charleville in Queensland for three years from 1894.

In Charleville, Cardew ministered to the biggest cattle stations in the world. It was there that he became famous across the colony as the ‘Cattle Punchers Padre.’ It was said his parish was the biggest in the world, covering 120,000 square miles.

Cardew then spent three years as the Vicar of All Saints’ Church, Brisbane. There he officiated at the wedding in 1898 of Travers Robert Goff (1863-1907), a bank manager from Dublin, and Margaret Agnes Morehead – their children included PL Travers (1899-1996), born Helen Lyndon Goff, the author of Mary Poppins.

Cardew was back in England, living in Leicestershire and Derbyshire in the early 20th century. He became the chaplain of Saint George’s Church, Paris, in 1907, and remained there until 1939. He was also the rural dean of France and a prebendary of Saint Paul’s Cathedral, London.

Soon after his arrival in Paris, Cardew founded the Cardew Theatre Girls’ Hostel in Montmartre for American and English ‘chorus girls’ in 1907. For over 30 years, he fed and sheltered countless chorus girls who sought their fame and fortune in the burlesque shows of Paris. He became the confessor, matchmaker, and legal adviser to thousands of ‘Les Girls’ and in doing so became famous across Europe as the ‘Chorus Girls’ Friend.’

During World War I he visited the frontlines, the trenches and the battlefields, and one of his sons was taken prisoner of war at the Second Battle of Ypres in 1915. At a victory dinner in Paris after the war signed himself with aplomb as ‘Chaplain of Blighty.’

Cardew continued his work among the ‘chorus girls’ after World War I. His fame and personality were so great that he was worked into the storyline of a show, The Nymph Errant, that became a musical by Cole Porter. He was also chaplain to the Actors’ Union and the Actors’ Association, was involved in the Anglo-Catholic Congress in 1923.

Canon Cardew officiated at the marriage of one of his ‘chorus girls,’ Gertie Millar (1879-1952), who married the widowed William Ward (1867-1932), 2nd Earl of Dudley, in Paris in 1924. Lord Dudley’s first wife had drowned in 1920 while she was visiting Connemara. The wedding caused a stir because Gertie was well-known on stage and in the chorus halls, while Lord Dudley had been Viceroy of Ireland (1902-1905) and Governor-General of Australia (1908-1911). He is named in James Joyce’s description of his Vice-Regal progress through Dublin in Ulysses.

But the publicity surrounding the wedding attracted public support for Cardew rather than notoriety, and in 1928 the British Ambassador in Paris presented him with a cheque for £1 million. The long list of subscribers was headed by the Prince of Wales, later Edward VIII, who had known Cardew from childhood but was also known to many of the chorus girls and was a close friend of Lord Dudley.

Canon Cardew’s first wife Norah died in London on 27 July 1931. He married his second wife, Margaret Sophie Stokes, on 17 August 1933. He had been made OBE the previous year, and the French government recognised his work by making him a Chevalier du Legion d’Honneur, the highest award from the French government.

When Edward VIII abdicated in 1936 and subsequently married Wallace Simpson at the Château de Candé in Tours on June 1937, Cardew became embroiled in the controversy. The civil marriage was followed by a Church of England service conducted by the Revd Robert Anderson Jardine, Vicar of Darlington in the Diocese of Durham.

Cardew said he the former king was ‘an old friend of mine and I have known him since he was a boy.’ But, he said, Jardine had conducted the service without his permission as Rural Dean of France and in defiance of the Bishop of Fulham, Bishop Basil Batty, who was in charge of Anglican affairs in continental Europe, and in defiance of the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of Durham.

Cardew said he was responsible for Anglican matters in France, and called for Jardine to be dismissed. He added that ‘any clergyman under my jurisdiction here in France who performed such a breach would almost certainly be deprived of his living.’ Cardew may also have disliked Jardine’s aggressive evangelical views. Jardine was eventually forced to retire and never worked again in parish ministry in the Church of England and died penniless in 1950.

Meanwhile, Cardew retired in 1939, and moved back to London. Canon Frederic Cardew died at the age of 76 in Shrewsbury House, Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, on 12 July 1942. He was the father of four sons.

After World War II, a memorial was erected to Canon Cardew in Saint George’s Church in 1950. With the help of the Girls’ Friendly Society, his widow Margaret refounded his club in 1952. In 1970, the YMCA contributed a legacy to the organisation, later known as the YMCA-Cardew Club. The club supports young English speakers, many of them au pairs, and the clubroom is at Saint George’s Church.

Saint George’s Church had been badly damaged during World War II. The site was sold to developers and the church is now housed in the ground floor and the basement of a modern apartment building on the site.

Frederic Anstruther Cardew is remembered to this day as a saintly and pastorally caring priest. The American writer Julien Green (1900-1998), who was born and lived in Paris, became a Roman Catholic in 1916. But in his autobiographical Young Years (1984) he recalled the influence on him of Cardew during his childhood days when he went to church in Saint George’s with his parents:

‘I remember that when the Reverend Cardew knelt in front of the altar and in an uncertain voice, but with an accent that did not deceive, intoned a hymn immediately taken up by the faithful, an indescribable emotion took possession of me. There was in this man a humility so deep and a faith so pure that I received something from it without even guessing what it was about. Because of this man, I loved God. I didn’t know anything about it and Reverend Cardew didn’t know anything about it either. Recently, a Catholic priest told me that this man had left behind the memory of an unblemished life after having been for a long time the chaplain of the girls at the Folies Bergère.’

Saint George’s Church was rebuilt in 1978. The Revd Mark Osborne is the chaplain, the Revd Nicolas Razafindratsima is the curate, and the former Dean of St Albans, the Very Revd Jeffrey John, is Associate Chaplain. The Sunday services include the Said Eucharist (BCP 1662) at 8:30 and Solemn Eucharist at 10:30.

Saint George’s Church, Paris, was rebuilt in 1978

Mark 7: 14-23 (NRSVA):

14 Then he called the crowd again and said to them, ‘Listen to me, all of you, and understand: 15 there is nothing outside a person that by going in can defile, but the things that come out are what defile.’

17 When he had left the crowd and entered the house, his disciples asked him about the parable. 18 He said to them, ‘Then do you also fail to understand? Do you not see that whatever goes into a person from outside cannot defile, 19 since it enters, not the heart but the stomach, and goes out into the sewer?’ (Thus he declared all foods clean.) 20 And he said, ‘It is what comes out of a person that defiles. 21 For it is from within, from the human heart, that evil intentions come: fornication, theft, murder, 22 adultery, avarice, wickedness, deceit, licentiousness, envy, slander, pride, folly. 23 All these evil things come from within, and they defile a person.’

Édouard Manet’s ‘A Bar at the Folies-Bergère’ (1882) … Canon Frederic Cardew was known in Paris as the ‘chorus girls' friend’

Today’s Prayers (Wednesday 7 February 2024):

The theme this week in ‘Pray With the World Church,’ the Prayer Diary of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel), is ‘Gender Justice in Christ.’ This theme was introduced on Sunday by Ellen McMibanga, Zambia Anglican Council Outreach Programme.

The USPG Prayer Diary today (7 February 2024) invites us to pray in these words:

Let us pray for gender justice across the world, remembering that gender equality can lead to the abolishment of poverty.

The Collect:

Almighty God,
you have created the heavens and the earth
and made us in your own image:
teach us to discern your hand in all your works
and your likeness in all your children;
through Jesus Christ your Son our Lord,
who with you and the Holy Spirit reigns supreme over all things,
now and for ever.

The Post-Communion Prayer:

God our creator,
by your gift
the tree of life was set at the heart of the earthly paradise,
and the bread of life at the heart of your Church:
may we who have been nourished at your table on earth
be transformed by the glory of the Saviour’s cross
and enjoy the delights of eternity;
through Jesus Christ our Lord.

Additional Collect:

Almighty God,
give us reverence for all creation
and respect for every person,
that we may mirror your likeness
in Jesus Christ our Lord.

Yesterday’s Reflection (Albert Schweitzer, 1875-1965)

Continued Tomorrow (Simon Weil, 1909-1943)

‘F Anstruther Cardew, Chaplain of Blighty’ … a post-war dinner card in Paris in 1918

Scripture quotations are from the New Revised Standard Version Bible: Anglicised Edition copyright © 1989, 1995, National Council of the Churches of Christ in the United States of America. Used by permission. All rights reserved worldwide. http://nrsvbibles.org