Following in the footsteps of Melina Mercouria at an arena and a restaurant in Rethymnon

Melina, a restaurant beside the Fortezza with views across the old town of Rethymnon … Melina Mercouri once spoke of Rethymnon as a place of ‘exquisite beauty’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Patrick Comerford

I always thought it was a school. For over 30 years, I thought the large building on Igoumenou Gavriil Street in Rethymnon was a large second-level. It stands across the street from the Church of Saint Constantine and Helen and close to the KTEL bus station in Rethymnon. It has been there since 1992, and I walk past it on my way to and from the city centre and the bus to Chania or Iraklion, or stand opposite it waiting for the bus to Panormos.

But I have been wrong all these years.

The building is, in fact, the Melina Mercouri Indoor Hall, or Rethymno Municipal Indoor Hall, an indoor sporting arena with a capacity for 1,600 spectators and the home venue for basketball games played by Rethymno Cretan Kings in the Greek Basket League.

The arena was opened in 1992, is named after the Greek actor and politician, Melina Mercouri and is owned by the Municipality of Rethymnon.

The arena’s seating capacity in was increased from 1,100 to 1,600 when Rethymnon competed in top-tier Greek basketball for the first time in the 2007-2008 season, and there are plans to expand the arena again.

The Melina Mercouri Indoor Hall … a basketball arena near the bus station in Rethymnon (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Melina Mercouri (1920-1994), who was one of the potent figures in resistance to the colonels’ junta in Greece more than half a century ago, had once spoken of Rethymnon as a place of ‘exquisite beauty’ (kallos). She met her husband Jules Dassin in Crete in 1957 while they were filming He Who Must Die, based on the novel Christ Recrucified by Nikos Kazantzakis.

Three years later, she gained international acclaim for her role in the film Never on Sunday (1960), directed by Jules Dassin. Never on Sunday (Ποτέ Την Κυριακή, Pote Tin Kyriaki) is a Greek black-and-white romantic comedy film starring in which she sang the song ‘The Children of Piraeus’, written in Greek by Manos Hatzidakis as Τα Παιδιά του Πειραιά (Ta Pediá tou Pireá).

The original song title Τα Παιδιά του Πειραιά is usually translated as ‘The Children of Piraeus’. But in Greek the word παιδιά (paidiá) can also have the same meaning as kids, guys or men.

The title song of the film won the Academy Award for Best Original Song in 1960, a first for a foreign-language picture. The song won Manos Hatzidakis an Academy Award for Best Original Song and became a worldwide hit. But Hatzidakis, whose family was from Rethymnon, did not attend the Academy Award ceremony in 1961, and refused to collect his award, saying the film with a prostitute as its protagonist reflected negatively on Athens and misrepresented Athens.

The original Greek lyrics by Hadjidakis, as well as the foreign translations in German, French, Italian and Spanish, sing of the Children of Piraeus, the port city of Athens – they do not mention ‘Never on Sunday’, which is only found in the English lyrics. The lyrics to the English version of the song were written by Billy Towne, with five versions reaching the UK Singles Chart.

In the original song, the main female character of the film, Illya (played by Melina Mercouri), sings of her joyful life in Piraeus:

If I search the world over
I’ll find no other port
Which has the magic
Of my Port Piraeus.

Although she earns her living as a prostitute, she longs to meet a man who is just as full of joie de vivre as she is. A love-smitten American, Homer Thrace (Jules Dassin), and a handsome Greek-Italian dockhand, Tonio (George Foundas), compete to win her heart and find they are learning lessons about the secret of happiness and life itself.

The film made Melina Mercouri an international star, won her an Academy Award and introduced Greek bouzouki music to the rest of the world. In the original soundtrack, the bouzouki solo sections were played by Giorgos Zampetas, one of the greatest bouzouki artists of the rebetiko era of Greek music. He began his career as a songwriter in 1952, and was popular in Greece throughout the 1950s and 1960s.

Melina Mercouri was also an acclaimed classical actor. She played the title role in Phaedra (Φαίδρα), an adaptation by Margarita Lymberaki in1962 of Hippolytus (Ἱππόλυτος), the tragic drama by Euripides about how the wilful actions of parents can have devastating and deathly consequences for their children.

The film is set in Paris, London and the Greek island of Hydra. The music was composed by Mikis Theodorakis and her recording of Αστέρι μου φεγγάρι μου (Asteri mou, Fengari mou, ‘My Star, My Moonlight’) remains a popular song in Greece.


Melina Mercouri sings ‘My Star, My Moonlight’, composed by Mikis Theodorakis for ‘Phaedra’

Speaking about her family’s long tradition of political activism over the generations, Melina Mercouri once said her grandfather, Spyridon Merkouris (1859-1939), a left-wing politician and Mayor of Athens, had been jailed by King Constantine I, and had spent part of that time in jail in Crete, where he was sentenced to death.

She became one of the potent figures in resistance to the oppressive junta of the colonels in Greece following their coup in 1967. Melina and Jules fled Greece and in 1970 they were accused of financing a plot to overthrow the regime. The charges were dropped but the interior minister, Colonel Stylianos Pattakos, revoked her Greek citizenship and confiscated her property.

When she was stripped of her citizenship, she said: ‘I was born a Greek and I will die a Greek. Pattakos was born a fascist and he will die a fascist.’

Later, she was a founding member of PASOK and became a prominent politician. She was elected to Parliament for Piraeus, became Minister of Culture in Andreas Papandreou’s cabinet, and devoted much of her career to demanding the return of the Parthenon Marbles from the British Museum to Athens.

The title of her autobiography, I was born a Greek, comes from her celebrated riposte when her Greek citizenship was revoked by the colonels.

Melina’s name engraved on a step into Melina restaurant beside the Fortezza in Rethymnon (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

In the streets on the slopes leading down from the Fortezza, Melina is a restaurant the offers beautiful views of the old town at night, and the name ‘Melina’ is carved in stone at the entrance.

I have wondered at times whether the restaurant is named after Melina Mercouri – but then, if I thought mistakenly for the past 30 years that a basketball arena was a school, I may be wrong about this too.

In his poem ‘Athens 2005’, the Cappoquin-born poet Thomas McCarthy writes of

… Melina Mercouri’s dream, her idealised place
Where a child might grow tall with European-ness, at home and in love

From the Shannon river to the Danube Volga, or Vistula; consoled
By culture for all the horrors of war and exile …

In this dark days of global violence, it is important to continue to dream Melina Mercouri’s dream of an ‘idealised place where a child might grow tall with European-ness, at home and in love’ and be ‘consoled by culture for all the horrors of war and exile.’

The statue of Melina Mercouri near the Acropolis in Athens (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Daily prayer in Easter 2025: 11, Wednesday 30 April 2025

‘For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him may not perish but may have eternal life’ (John 3: 16) … Hands across the Globe, a sculpture beneath the Fortezza in Rethymnon (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Patrick Comerford

Our Easter celebrations continue in the Church Calendar, and this week began with the Second Sunday of Easter (Easter II). Easter is a 50-day season that continues until the Day of Pentecost. The calendar of the Church of England in Common Worship today remembers the life and witness of Pandita Mary Ramabai (1922), Translator of the Scriptures.

I have a hospital appointment with a cardiac consultant in Milton Keynes this afternoon. Later this evening, I hope to be at the choir rehearsals in Saint Mary and Saint Giles as they resume in Stony Stratford after a short recess following a busy Easter programme. Meanwhile, before today begins, I am taking some quiet time this morning to give thanks, to reflect, to pray and to read in these ways:

1, reading today’s Gospel reading;

2, a short reflection;

3, a prayer from the USPG prayer diary;

4, the Collects and Post-Communion prayer of the day.

‘Nicodemus … came to Jesus by night’ (John 3: 1-2) … an image in a window in Saint Mary de Castro Church, Leicester (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2024)

John 3: 16-21 (NRSVA):

[Jesus said to Nicodemus:] 16 ‘For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him may not perish but may have eternal life.

17 ‘Indeed, God did not send the Son into the world to condemn the world, but in order that the world might be saved through him. 18 Those who believe in him are not condemned; but those who do not believe are condemned already, because they have not believed in the name of the only Son of God. 19 And this is the judgement, that the light has come into the world, and people loved darkness rather than light because their deeds were evil. 20 For all who do evil hate the light and do not come to the light, so that their deeds may not be exposed. 21 But those who do what is true come to the light, so that it may be clearly seen that their deeds have been done in God.’

‘For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him may not perish but may have eternal life’ (John 3: 16) … the emigrants’ globe on the quays in New Ross, Co Wexford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Today’s Reflection:

In today’s Gospel reading (John 3: 16-21), we meet Nicodemus, a prominent Pharisee, a rabbi, a teacher and a member of the Sanhedrin. He has a Greek name – Νικοδημος (Nikodemos) means ‘victory of the people’ – and this Greek name probably indicates he is an urbane and sophisticated man.

Nicodemus appears three times in Saint John’s Gospel:

1, He visits Christ at night to discuss Christ’s teachings (John 3: 1-21)

2, He reminds his colleagues in the Sanhedrin that the law requires that a person should be heard before being judged (John 7: 50-51)

3, At the Crucifixion, he provides the embalming spices and helps Joseph of Arimathea to prepare the body of Christ for burial (John 19: 39-42)

In this first encounter, Nicodemus comes to Christ by night. Perhaps he did not want to be seen consulting Jesus, who is newly-arrived in Jerusalem and is already causing a stir. But we should remember too that Saint John’s Gospel uses poetic and dramatic contrasts: heaven and earth, water and wine, seeing and believing, faith and doubt, truth and falseness. Here too we have the contrast between darkness and light, the world that is in darkness is being brought into the light of Christ.

Nicodemus is a good and pious Pharisee and member of the Sanhedrin, the highest Jewish religious court. But, despite his positive attitudes to the Mosaic Law, what is the foundation of his faith?

Nicodemus acknowledges Christ is a teacher sent by God. But is this enough – is it simply an understanding of Christ without faith? At this point, Nicodemus sees but does not believe; he has insight but does not have faith.

Christ’s reply puts the emphasis back on faith rather than on law, on believing more than seeing. But does Nicodemus understand this?

Nicodemus seems to misunderstand what he hears. He thinks Christ is speaking about a second physical, natural birth from a mother’s womb.

The dialogue that follows includes two of the most quoted passages in Saint John’s Gospel:

• ‘Very truly, I tell you, no one can see the kingdom of God without being born from above’ or ‘born again’ (verse 5)

• ‘For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him may not perish but may have eternal life’ (verse 16)

For many people, this second phrase is a summary of the whole Gospel: ‘For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him may not perish but may have eternal life.’ Martin Luther said this verse is ‘the Gospel in miniature.’ But the original version does not say that God so loved the world, but that God so loved the cosmos (κόσμος), the whole created order, that he gave, or rather sent (ἔδωκεν, from δίδωμι) his only-begotten Son.

God so loved the cosmos (κόσμος) that he actively sent his only-begotten Son on a mission. And this love is the beginning of missio Dei, God’s mission.

In Pythagorean thinking – and remember that John was in exile on Patmos, the neighbouring island of Samos, where Pythagoras was born – the cosmos (κόσμος) includes the arrangement of the stars, ‘the heavenly hosts,’ as the ornament of the heavens (see I Peter 3: 3). It is not just the whole world, but the whole universe, the whole created order. It is earth and all that encircles the earth like its skin.

The original tells us that God so loved the κόσμος – the whole pulsating, created order as imagined by Pythagoras and the philosophers – God so loved the cosmos that he sent his only son … [Οὕτως γὰρ ἠγάπησεν ὁ Θεὸς τὸν κόσμον, ὥστε τὸν Υἱὸν τὸν μονογενῆ ἔδωκεν …] Not that he gave insipidly, but that he sent actively, sent him on a mission. And this love is the beginning of missio Dei, God’s mission – he sent (ἔδωκεν, from δίδωμι) his only-begotten Son.

Nicodemus finds it difficult to understand what Christ is saying. But what about the first saying, the phrase, ‘being born from above’ or ‘being born again’?

The key word (ἄνωθεν) here has the double meaning of ‘from above’ and ‘again.’ A new birth, a second birth, getting a whole new take on life, a new beginning, a fresh, refreshing start … what does it mean here?

The way we hear the phrase ‘born-again’ being used today may be derived from this event in Saint John’s Gospel. But that understanding is not available to Nicodemus, because it can only be traced to American evangelicalism in the second half of the 20th century.

Until the 20th century, most discussions about this phrase focussed on questions about baptismal regeneration. The key references are in Article 15 and Article 27 in the 39 Articles. Article 15 seems to imply that all who are baptised are ‘born again in Christ’ – which is not the phrase used in this reading. Article 27 says, ‘Baptism is not only a sign of profession and mark of difference … but it is also a sign of Regeneration or new Birth …’

Despite its present-day use, the term ‘born again’ has been widely associated with evangelical Christians only since the late 1960s, beginning in the US. The phrase ‘born again’ now refers to a particular type of individual conversion experience – although the plural is used grammatically in verse 7 in this Gospel story.

The phrase gained popularity after 1976, when the Watergate conspirator Chuck Colson published his book Born Again. The term was so prevalent within a few years that in an interview during his presidential campaign Jimmy Carter described himself as ‘born again.’

But Nicodemus could not have anticipated late 20th century, evangelical, American uses of this phrase, let alone decide to answer the words of Jesus in an individual way that is promoted by the modern ‘born again’ movement.

So, what could a pious Jew and rabbi like Nicodemus have understood Jesus to mean in his own time?

According to the Mishnah, the duty of loving God ‘with all your soul’ (see Deuteronomy 6: 5) means ‘even if he takes your soul.’ Love of God is a total commitment – unto death. In commenting on this insight in the Mishnah, the rabbis quoted the psalms, ‘Because of you we are being killed all day long, and accounted as sheep for the slaughter’ (Psalm 44: 22, NRSVA).

One rabbi (Rabbi Simeon ben Menasya) asked what it could possibly mean for a righteous person to die many times throughout the day. He answered: ‘It is not possible for one to be killed every day; but God reckons the life of the pious as though they died a martyr’s death daily’ (Sifre Deuteronomy, 32).

Tradition said that when the people in the wilderness heard the words of the Ten Commandments revealed to Moses on Mount Sinai, the revelation struck death into their hearts. But, Rabbi Joshua ben Levi said, they were brought back to new life ‘by God’s power’ [Rabbi Joshua ben Levi here quotes Songs 5: 6 and Psalm 68: 10].

In this way, the Ten Commandments were given to the people through a succession of deaths and rebirths. In other versions, death and rebirth come with direct encounters with God’s glory, with the miraculous rebirth of each of the 600,000 people present as they continuously encounter God face-to-face.

In this way, an encounter with the living God brings death and rebirth, a rabbinic tradition that a pious rabbi like Nicodemus would be familiar with.

It was believed that longing for spiritual transcendence is expressed through overcoming material desire. In this way, a life imprisoned by desire is a living death, but dying into God by total self-giving brings true life.

This tradition of interpretation continued into the Middle Ages. Rabbi Yehuda Halevi (1075/1086-1141), in his poems, says he would gladly die, for life without God ‘is death.

In other words, in the rabbinic tradition, life without God is like death, but life committed to loving God with the whole heart is lived as though I had died and had been given back my life as a new life by God.

What happened to Nicodemus after this reading?

In line with this rabbinic tradition, Nicodemus would have left Jesus that night challenged to ask whether he needed to move beyond the Law to an encounter with the living God, an encounter that brings death and rebirth.

This is his first of his three appearances in this Gospel. We meet him again when he states the law concerning the arrest of Jesus during the Feast of Tabernacles (John 7: 45-51).

The third time follows the Crucifixion, when he helps Joseph of Arimathea in taking the body of Christ down from the cross before dark, and preparing the body for burial (John 19: 39-42).

Compare the unfolding faith of Nicodemus in these three encounters with the way Saint Peter denies Christ three times.

So, in this Gospel reading, in the story of Nicodemus, birth is linked with death, new birth is linked with new life, and before darkness falls Nicodemus really comes to possess the Body of Christ, to hold the Body of Christ in his hands.

It is an appropriate Gospel reading after Easter, as we think of how Nicodemus is prepared for the Crucifixion and Resurrection and in time to hold the Body of Christ, to become a full communicant member of the Church in the joy of Easter.

Χριστὸς ἀνέστη!
Christ is Risen!

The statue of Pythagoras (1989) by Nikolaos Ikaris (1920-1994) on the harbour front in Pythagóreio on the Greek island of Samos (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Today’s Prayers (Wednesday 30 April 2025):

‘Become Like Children’ provides the theme this week in ‘Pray With the World Church’, the Prayer Diary of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel). This theme was introduced on Sunday with a Programme Update by Rachel Weller, Communications Officer, USPG.

The USPG Prayer Diary today (Wednesday 30 April 2025) invites us to pray:

God of justice, instil in us a deep-rooted sense of solidarity with people who feel powerless, especially children. May we advocate for their rights and ensure they feel valued and heard in our communities.

The Collect:

Almighty Father,
you have given your only Son to die for our sins
and to rise again for our justification:
grant us so to put away the leaven of malice and wickedness
that we may always serve you
in pureness of living and truth;
through the merits of your Son Jesus Christ our Lord,
who is alive and reigns with you,
in the unity of the Holy Spirit,
one God, now and for ever.

The Post Communion Prayer:

Lord God our Father,
through our Saviour Jesus Christ
you have assured your children of eternal life
and in baptism have made us one with him:
deliver us from the death of sin
and raise us to new life in your love,
in the fellowship of the Holy Spirit,
by the grace of our Lord Jesus Christ.

Additional Collect:

Risen Christ,
for whom no door is locked, no entrance barred:
open the doors of our hearts,
that we may seek the good of others
and walk the joyful road of sacrifice and peace,
to the praise of God the Father.

Collect on the Eve of Saint Philip and Saint James:

Almighty Father,
whom truly to know is eternal life:
teach us to know your Son Jesus Christ
as the way, the truth, and the life;
that we may follow the steps
of your holy apostles Philip and James,
and walk steadfastly in the way that leads to your glory;
through Jesus Christ your Son our Lord,
who is alive and reigns with you,
in the unity of the Holy Spirit,
one God, now and for ever.

Yesterday’s Reflections

Continued Tomorrow

‘For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him may not perish but may have eternal life’ (John 3: 16) … a sculpture at ‘Bloom’ in the Phoenix Park, Dublin, in 2018 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Scripture quotations are from the New Revised Standard Version Bible: Anglicised Edition copyright © 1989, 1995 National Council of the Churches of Christ in the United States of America. Used by permission. All rights reserved worldwide. http://nrsvbibles.org