University Hall, also known as Hatch Hall, on Hatch Street, was an integral part of students life in Dublin for over a century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2024)
Patrick Comerford
University Hall, also known as Hatch Hall, on Hatch Street, was an integral part of students life in Dublin for over a century, and is an impressive part of Dublin’s architectural heritage.
Since it closed, the former Jesuit-run university hall has been used as accommodation for asylum seekers and there are plans today to turn it into a 60-bedroom 5-star hotel.
Hatch Hall dominates this corner close to the junction where Lower Hatch Street, Lower Leeson Street and Upper Pembroke Street meet. It its heyday as student accommodation, Hatch Hall was close to University College Dublin, then on Earlsfort Terrace, and it is close to University Church and Newman House on St Stephen’s Green, to nightlife in Leeson Street and Harcourt Street, and to the Iveagh Gardens and Grafton Street.
Hatch Hall was designed in 1910 by the Dublin architect Charles B Powell (1881-1956) in a late-Victorian and Gothic Revival style and the building offers an interesting contrast to the predominantly simple Georgian architecture of the houses and buildings in this quarter of Dublin.
Charles B Powell was born Co Dublin, a younger son of the English-born stained-glass artist and church decorated Henry Powell (1835-1882), and his wife Ellen (McCormack). Henry Powell was a partner in Hardman and Powell studios, which worked closely with AWN Pugin, and was a nephew of the Birmingham ecclesiastical decorator John Hardman and a brother-in-law of Edward Welby Pugin’s sister Anne, who married John Hardman Powell. Henry set up the Hardman studios in Grafton Street in 1853, and the business continued as Earley & Powells.
Charles Powell was an infant when his father died in 1882. He went to school in Blackrock College, and may have been trained as architect by George Coppinger Ashlin.
Powell became something of a recluse in later life, living with his widowed mother until about 1940 and then living alone and working from his home on Maxwell Road, Rathmines, where his two dogs ‘protected him fervently’. A bearded figure who rode around Dublin on a bicycle, he was known as ‘God on a bike’.
His connections with the Hardman, Pugin and Ashlin families introduced him to the church clients who gave him with most of his commissions, including churches throughout Ireland and at least one church in England: Saint Mary’s Catholic Church in St Helen’s, Lancashire.
Powell was the favoured architect of the Dublin Jesuits in Dublin designing extensions for Rathfarnham Castle, and alteration at Belvedere College and Milltown Park. He also worked for the Carmelites at Aungier Street and Terenure College, the gates of the Passionist Monastery at Mount Argus, and on a number of convents, as well as works for the Neptune Rowing Club.
The central gable-fronted five-storey entrance front has carved limestone copings and a cross finial at its apex (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2024)
At first, Francis Bergin was approached to design the new hall. But in 1911 the Jesuits commissioned Powell to design their University Hostel in Hatch Street, a Gothic building in bright red brick, rising conspicuously above the neighbouring terraces.
The nine-bay four-storey residential hall was built by W Connolly & Son of Dominick Street in 1910-1913. The central gable-fronted five-storey entrance front has carved limestone copings and a cross finial at its apex and is flanked by full-height octagonal turrets to north or front elevation. The segmental-headed carriage-arch has a carved limestone cornice and a decorative wrought-iron double-leaf gate, with Tudor rose detail. The decorative tympanum has a shield with a gold leaf IHS monogram.
There is a 12-bay return to the east, and a 13-bay two-storey rear south block incorporating a five-bay, bow-ended first floor chapel and enclosing a courtyard.
Other features include attic accommodation, a canted oriel corner bay, canted oriel windows, turrets. Pointed arches, a pitched slate roof with clay ridge tiles, a red brick parapet with limestone coping, stepped red-brick chimneystacks with limestone copings, stepped red brick cornices, gabled dormer windows with timber bargeboards, conical copper roofs and finials on the turrets, copper gable-fronted projections, gargoyles and wrought-iron railings.
The north façade is particularly fine, with limestone detailing used to good effect to provide a contrast with the warm red brick, as well as emphasising the horizontal lines, and its copper and crenellated turret roofs punctuating he skyline.
The five lancet windows in the chapel commemorating Joseph Dolan were commissioned by the Jesuit Aubrey Gwynn and made in 1947 by Evie Hone (1894-1955). The windows depict the Lamb, the Fish, the Pelican, the Dove and the Alpha and Omega.
The decorative wrought-iron double-leaf gate, with Tudor rose detail and a decorative tympanum with a shield with a gold leaf IHS monogram (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2024)
The Jesuits opened University Hall or Hatch Hall in in 1913, and it provided accommodation for third level male students, mainly at UCD when it was based around the corner at Earlsfort Terrace, until the hall closed 20 years ago in 2004.
The Jesuits promoted a spirit of 'Friendship, Faith, Involvement', and the hall was well known for its community spirit. The hall’s motto was Sic Luceat Lux Vestra, ‘In this way let your light shine’.
Initially, Hatch Hall accommodated 70 students, a dean and other officials at the turn of the century. At first, the students were mostly studying medicine in UCD. But the intake grew progressively larger throughout the 20th century to over 100 male students a year.
The hall supported a number of societies including film, debating and photography societies, and encouraged voluntary work in the community through local charities and homework clubs. The highlight of the hall’s calendar was the annual ‘Hatch Ball’ in the Shelbourne Hotel on Saint Stephen’s Green. Past residents have included Desmond O’Malley, founder and former leader of the Progressive Democrats, the former Taoiseach Brian Cowen and Michael O’Leary, Ryanair CEO.
When Hatch Hall closed in 2004, it was bought for €16 million by the property developer Gerry Barrett. He planned to develop the hall into a hotel, but permission for an 81-bedroom hotel was overturned. Later the building served as a direct provision centre, with accommodation for 365 asylum seekers and refugees.
The building was bought by Red Carnation Hotels for €20 million in 2019, with plans to convert it into a 5-star boutique hotel. In 2013, the landmark building was sold yet again for €23 million, to Rosado Developments, a Wexford-based company. The property came with planning permission for conversion into a 60-bedroom luxury hotel with a gross floor area of 7,292 square metres.
Meanwhile, the five Evie Hone windows have been relocated from the chapel in University Hall to the Ignatian Room to Saint Francis Xavier Church, Upper Gardiner Street, Dublin. According to the author and historian Frank Rogers says the windows are some of the best examples in Ireland of religious icons in stained glass.
The Jesuits were among Evie Hone’s main patrons, and some of her finest windows are in the Jesuit Retreat House, Manresa, in Dollymount, where they were moved when the Retreat House in Rahan, Co Offaly, closed in 1991.
Hatch Hall was sold last year for for €23 million with planning permission for conversion into a 60-bedroom luxury hotel (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2024)
Showing posts with label Grafton Street. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Grafton Street. Show all posts
11 April 2024
The Wyatt Family of Weeford:
a Staffordshire
architectural dynasty
James Wyatt (1746-1813) of Weeford … the most famous member of the Wyatt architectural dynasty, his work on Lichfield Cathedral was condemned by AWN Pugin
Patrick Comerford
Tamworth and District Civic Society,
Christopher’s, Peel Hotel,
Aldergate, Tamworth
7:30 p.m., 11 April 2024
Introduction
There are several interesting architectural dynasties in the 19th century, including the Hardwick, Barry, Pugin and Scott families. But the Wyatt family tree stretches back much further than any of these, and the Wyatt family stands out for the variety and influence of its work by five or six generations of influential English architects in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.
The best-known member of this dynasty was, perhaps, James Wyatt (1746-1813), although his work on rebuilding and restoring Lichfield Cathedral at the end of the 18th century drew the opprobrium of the greatest Gothic Revival architect of them all, AWN Pugin, when he visited Lichfield.
I am familiar with the work of the Wyatt family, not only because of my research on Pugin’s work, and because my family had worked on Pugin churches in the 19th century, but also because of their strong family links with the Tamworth and Lichfield area, because of Wyatt contributions to the architectural shape of Sidney Sussex College in Cambridge, and because of one unique architectural feature – Wyatt Windows – which are found in large measure in two towns in Ireland: in Bunclody, Co Wexford, which was the Irish home town of my father’s ancestors, and Rathkeale, the principal town in the group of parishes in the Diocese of Limerick in south-west Ireland where I was the priest-in-charge for five years (2017-2022).
Visiting Weeford
Saint Mary’s Church in Weeford … generations of the Wyatt family were baptised, married and buried there (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
I was reminded once again of the Wyatt family’s prolific work and unique contribution throughout these islands on a visit some time ago to Weeford, between Tamworth and Lichfield, which has been associated with the Wyatt family for almost six centuries.
Weeford is one of the five original ‘prebends’ in Lichfield Cathedral (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Weeford is 9 km (5.6 miles) west of Tamworth and 6 km (four miles) south of Lichfield, close to Toll 4 on the M6, but is in quiet rural Staffordshire. It is mentioned in the Domesday Book and it was one of the five original ‘prebends’ that paid ‘wax Scot’ or ‘Plough Alms’ to Lichfield Cathedral from the beginning of the 12th century. Indeed, there was a church in Weeford for many centuries, and there is still a stall for the Prebendary of Weeford in the chapter stalls in Lichfield Cathedral.
The Weeford Parish Registers are a valuable tool for genealogists and local historian (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
In Lichfield, I recently bought a copy of the old parish registers for Saint Mary’s, dating back to 1562. The Weeford Parish Register was prepared for the Staffordshire Parish Register Society and edited by the society secretary, Norman W Tildesley of Somerford Place, Willenhall, and printed privately in Wednesbury around 1954-1956.
The Weeford parish registers of baptisms, marriages and burials date from 1562 and continue until 1812. They were transcribed by HR Thomas of Wolverhampton. On the back of the fly leaf of the first register are two interesting prayers written in an unformed hand:
By thy crucified body deliver me from the body of this death.
O let this blood of thine purge my conscience from vain works to serve the living God.
A footbridge over the Blackbrook River in Weeford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The registers record not just baptisms, marriages and burials, but the events too that led to these rites of passage. An entry in 1614 records: ‘Buried: Roger Whately, a Carrier, that was murthered at Weeford Park on Sundaie the 27th November, buried the last of November.’
There is a moving entry from 13 February 1745: ‘Buried a woman that came to ask charity at Packington Hall and died in the fold there.’
On 13 March 1758, the registers record the death of ‘James Holmes who was kill’d by a waggon wheel at Mr Manley’s of Swinfen.’ An unnamed ‘Travelling Irishman’ is recorded as being baptised on 15 August 1759, although this must surely refer to a burial. On 24 February 1760, we read of the death of ‘Mr Joseph Grundy from Swinfen Hall, who was killed by being ‘thrown off a load of Hay.’
Some of the entries record family tragedies in very simple terms. Jone (Joan) Basford, the daughter of Raphe Basford, was baptised on 28 January 1571, ‘and was burried [sic] the morrow after.’ An unknown stranger is buried on 3 February 1578 without being named. Thomas Thickbrome’s two daughters, Margaret and Ellin, are buried within ten days of each other in October 1580. Robert and Constance Turner, brother and sister, were baptised on 7 March 1586 – and both were buried five days later. Charles, the son of Joseph and Mary Wyatt, was baptised on 27 November 1757, and buried the next day.
To read this high rate of infant mortality, even centuries later, is heart-rending.
Thomas Tew and Ales Mustard were married on 2 December 1574, and their son William was baptised three weeks later, on Christmas Day 25 December 1574. The registers can be quite blunt, or even cruel, in commenting on domestic situations. A child baptised in 1576, and another in 1578, are each described as spurius, while a child baptised in 1584 is said to be ‘baseborne.’
There are three sad entries, one after another, on 2 August 1591, beginning with the burial of Elizabeth Maxfield, noting ‘The said Elizabeth Maxfield a little before her death of two sonnes, the name of the first is Edward, the other Thomas, the father of the said children is unknown.’ The writer then goes on to record the baptisms that day of each new-born child.
A child found in the church porch ‘was baptized by the name of Anne, according to the Cannon [sic]’ on 31 December 1637.
There are few entries for baptisms during the Cromwellian era (1649-1660) and the entries are poorly organised, indicating the strong Puritan streak among the ministers appointed to the parish, although this does not necessarily mean the parishioners agreed with the ministers imposed on them.
The four main families in the parish were Swinfen of Swinfen Hall, Levett of Packington Hall, Manley of Manley Hall and Lawley of Canwell Hall. Packington Hall had been built by James Wyatt for the Babington family, and later passed by marriage to the Levett family.
Early Wyatts in Weeford
An outline of the Wyatt family tree (Wikipedia)
As an indication of the social prejudices of the day, families like these tend to receive more attentive entries in the register. John and Ann Swinfen were witnesses on 14 October 1790 at the marriage of ‘The Honourable John Colvill, eldest son and heir apparent of the Right Honourable John, Lord Colvill of Culrooss in Scotland and Elizabeth Ford of Swinfen.’ It is interesting to note that Elizabeth’s parentage is not referred to.
These registers show that the Wyatt family was living in the parish since at least as early as 1540, if not earlier. The baptism of Thomas Wyatt, son of Robert Wyatt, on 29 July 1562, is the fifth entry recorded in the registers, and is followed by two daughters, Margery in 1565 and Margaret in 1567.
Entries for members of the Wyatt family, including inter-marriages within the family, continue for generations and for centuries. There are Wyatt memorials in the parish church and Wyatt graves scattered throughout the churchyard.
There were Wyatts in Weeford from before 1540, when William Wyatt was the father of Humphrey Wyatt, and the Wyatt architectural dynasty can be traced back to William Wyatt of Thickbroom, near Weeford, who died in 1572.
The Wyatt dynasty was consolidated by a great number of marriages between cousins – over 20 in all, with eight in one generation alone. Wyatt family members often worked together in the architectural world. But the family also includes artists, painters, sculptors and journalists.
The grave in the churchyard in Weeford of John Wyatt (1675-1742), his wife Jane (1677-1739), their son Benjamin Wyatt (1709-1772) and other family members (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Edward Wyatt, who was buried in Weeford in 1572, was the great-great-grandfather of Edward Wyatt (1632-1705), whose son, John Wyatt (1675-1742) from Thickbroom in Weeford, was the immediate ancestor of this outstanding architectural dynasty.
This John Wyatt married Jane Jackson (1677-1739) on 4 June 1699, and they were the parents of at least nine children, eight sons and one daughter. Their eldest son, John Wyatt (1700-1766), who was probably born in Thickbroom and baptised in Weeford parish church, was also related to Sarah Ford, the mother of Dr Samuel Johnson.
John was a carpenter by trade, and worked in Birmingham, where he became a talented inventor. His inventions included a compound lever weighing machine for weighing loaded wagons, and he developed a spinning machine that predated Richard Arkwright’s ‘Spinning Jenny.’
The second son of John and Jane Wyatt of Thickbroom was William Wyatt (1701-1772) of Sinai Park House, near Burton-upon-Trent. A surveyor, who was steward to the Paget family, and was involved in their unpopular enclosures of land in Staffordshire.
I shall return to his descendants and their architectural legacy later on.
Architectural genius
Swinfen Hall … the finest architectural achievement of Benjamin Wyatt (1709-1772)
Among John Wyatt’s eight sons, the first to work as an architect was Benjamin Wyatt I (1709-1772). He too was baptised in Weeford, in 1709, and in the same church he married Mary Wright on 27 May 1731.
He was a ‘farmer, timber merchant, building contractor and sometime architect.’ Benjamin and Mary Wyatt were living at Coton, near Tamworth, before he built his own house, Blackbrook in Weeford, which was home to seven generations of the Wyatt family.
Benjamin Wyatt’s finest architectural achievement was Swinfen Hall, between Weeford and Lichfield, which he built in 1757 for Samuel Swinfen and his wife. Half a century ago, Sir Nikolaus Pevsner observed in 1974: ‘Much more ought to be found out about the house.’ I think this has been rectified in recent decades.
Around 1769, Benjamin Wyatt built Soho House in Handsworth (then in Staffordshire), the Birmingham home of Matthew Boulton (1728-1809), a Birmingham industrialist and a member of the Lunar Society. Later work on the house was carried out by two of John’s sons, Samuel Wyatt (1737-1807), who extended the house in 1789, and James Wyatt (1746-1813), who added the main entrance (1796).
Other works in Staffordshire by Benjamin Wyatt senior include the General Hospital in Foregate Street, Stafford (1766-1771).
The gate lodge of Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge … part of the alterations by Sir Jeffry Wyatville in 1832 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Benjamin and Mary Wyatt had a large family. Their eldest son, William Wyatt (1734-1781), was a land surveyor and inclosure commissioner, and he married his first cousin, Sarah Wyatt of Sinai Park.
Their second son, John Wyatt (1735-1797), was a successful surgeon in London. He returned to Weeford to marry Catherine Anderson on 31 March 1761, when his parents were still living at Blackbrook Farm, and when he died in 1797 he was buried in Weeford too.
Another son, Samuel Wyatt (1737-1807), nicknamed ‘Chip’ because he was also a carpenter, was an architect and builder. He married his cousin, Jane Wyatt. His works include Trinity House on Tower Hill, which has been described as ‘the last word in Georgian elegance.’
Pevsner says Samuel Wyatt was ‘the best architect to work at Shugborough’, which was originally built in 1693. He designed what Pevsner calls the ‘grandest portico in Staffordshire by far,’ the eight-column giant portico set in front of the house in 1794.
He also added the awkwardly projecting saloon, former dining room and drawing room, and the elliptical entrance hall, and designed the Milford Lodges at the entrance.
The next son, Joseph Wyatt (1739-1785), who married his cousin Myrtilla Wyatt, was the father of Sir Jeffry Wyatville (1766-1840). He changed his surname from Wyatt to Wyatville (frequently misspelled Wyattville in south Dublin housing estates), and Sir Jeffry Wyatville was responsible for significant works at Windsor Castle and Chatsworth House.
I have first-hand familiarity with Jeffry Wyatville’s alterations to Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge, in 1832, including the gatehouse. Under his supervision, the exterior brick of Sidney Sussex College was covered with a layer of cement, the existing buildings were heightened slightly, and the architectural effect was also heightened.
Benjamin and Mary Wyatt were also the parents of Benjamin Wyatt II (1744-1818), who moved to Wales in 1785 and was the agent to Lord Penrhyn.
James Wyatt and Lichfield Cathedral
Lichfield Cathedral … Pugin called James Wyatt a ‘wretch,’ a ‘pest’ and a ‘monster of architectural depravity’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
But the most famous son of Benjamin and Mary Wyatt was James Wyatt (1746-1813), who was born at Blackbrook Farmhouse near Weeford, and became the most acclaimed and influential architect of his age.
His first major building, the Pantheon in Oxford Street, London, was described by Horace Walpole as ‘the most beautiful edifice in England.’ Sadly, this building burned to the ground in a spectacular fire in 1792, only 20 years after its opening. The site is now occupied by the Oxford Street branch of Marks and Spencer.
James Wyatt became the Surveyor General and was involved in the Radcliffe Observatory in Oxford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
In 1792, James Wyatt was appointed the Surveyor General, which effectively made him England’s most prominent architect. He was also involved in works at Windsor Castle, Kew Gardens, the Radcliffe Observatory in Oxford, and the restoration of the House of Lords. His other acclaimed works include Fonthill Abbey near Hindon, in Wiltshire, Broadway Tower in Worcestershire, the folly on the second highest point of the Cotswolds, Heveningham Hall in Suffolk, Ashbridge Park in Hertfordshire, and the Royal Military Academy at Woolwich.
He also worked on Alton Towers for the Earls of Shrewsbury, although Pevsner was unable to determine the extent of his contribution.
James Wyatt rebuilt Saint Mary’s Church in Weeford in 1802-1804, now a Grade 2 Listed Building, and donated the altar, pulpit, screens, font and ornamental furnishings. Other family members involved in rebuilding the church included James Wyatt’s nephew, Lewis William Wyatt (1777-1853), son of Benjamin Wyatt II (1744-1853).
James Wyatt began working on the restoration of Lichfield Cathedral in 1788 – his first cathedral task – and worked until here 1795. He oversaw work to remove 500 tons of stone from the nave roof, replacing it with lath and plaster, and effectively saving the cathedral from collapse. He blocked up the four western choir arches, removed or altered the screen, put a glass screen in the east arch of the crossing, and added the two heavy buttresses outside the south transept. He also largely rebuilt the central spire.
The architect on the site was Joseph Potter senior.
When the great figure in the Gothic Revival, AWN Pugin, first visited Lichfield in 1834, over 20 years after James Wyatt had died, he was taken aback by his refurbishment of the cathedral 30 years earlier and believed the fabric of the cathedral had been mutilated by James Wyatt – and he also described Lichfield as ‘a dull place – without anything remarkable.’
Pugin described Wyatt as a ‘Wretch,’ a ‘pest,’ an ‘accursed tutor’ and a ‘monster.’ He declared: ‘Yes – this monster of architectural depravity, this pest of Cathedral architecture, has been here. need I say more.’
Referring to another Lichfield architect, Joseph Potter, Pugin said: ‘The man I am sorry to say – who executes the repairs of the building was a pupil of the Wretch himself and has imbibed all the vicious propensities of his accursed tutor without one spark of even practical ability to atone for his misdeeds.’
James Wyatt’s major neoclassical country houses include Packington Hall, two miles from Lichfield and 4.5 miles from Tamworth, and the home of the Babington and then the Levett family for generations.
James Wyatt’s major works in Ireland include Castle Coole, the Enniskillen home of the Earls of Belmore, Lady Anne Dawson’s mausoleum in Dartrey, Co Monaghan, the interiors of Curraghmore for Lord Waterford, and Avondale House, Co Wicklow, the family home of the Irish patriot Charles Stewart Parnell.
It interesting to note his broad and sweeping influence on the design of houses in towns such as Carlow, Bunclody (Newtownbarry), Co Wexford, and Rathkeale, Co Limerick, for example.
Wyatt windows can be seen in many buildings in Bunclody, including the former Comerford family home (until recently the Post Office). The rectory, built in 1808, has windows that diminish in scale on each floor in the classical manner, producing a graduated visual impression, once again in a style inspired by James Wyatt. Wyatt windows can be seen too in some of the many once-elegant Georgian townhouses in Rathkeale.
James Wyatt was also briefly the President of the Royal Academy (1804). His life came to an abrupt end on 4 September 1813, when the chariot-and-four in which he was travelling overturned on the Marlborough Downs. He was buried in the South Transept in Westminster Abbey.
James Wyatt’s second son and pupil, Benjamin Dean Wyatt (1775-1852), built the Theatre Royal in Drury Lane, London, and was also the Surveyor at Westminster Abbey. Another son was the sculptor Matthew Cotes Wyatt (1778-1862).
The Irish work of the dynasty
Thomas Henry Wyatt built Saint Bartholomew’s Church, Ballsbridge, in 1864-1867 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
I said I would return to William Wyatt (1701-1772), the elder brother of Benjamin Wyatt (1709-1772). This William Wyatt was the grandfather of Matthew Wyatt (1773-1831), who studied law instead of architecture. He moved briefly to Ireland when he was appointed a barrister and police magistrate in Roscommon.
Matthew Wyatt’s son, Thomas Henry Wyatt (1807-1880), was born at Loughlynn House, Co Roscommon, on 9 May 1807. Although he was born in Ireland, he is often regarded as an English architect.
When Thomas was about 11, the Wyatt family returned to England in 1818, and his brother, Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt (1820-1877), was born in Rowde, Wiltshire. By 1825, the family was living in Lambeth.
Thomas Wyatt first began a career as a merchant sailing to the Mediterranean. But he returned to the family’s tradition of architecture, and his early training was in the office of Philip Hardwick. There he worked until 1832, and was involved in work on Goldsmiths Hall, Euston Station and the warehouses at Saint Katharine Docks.
He began to practice on his own as an architect in 1832, and became the District Surveyor for Hackney, a post he held until 1861.
He married his first cousin, Arabella Montagu Wyatt (1807-1875), a daughter of his uncle, Arthur Wyatt, who was the agent of the Duke of Beaufort. By 1838, he had acquired substantial patronage from the Duke of Beaufort, the Earl of Denbigh and Sidney Herbert (1810-1861). David Brandon joined Wyatt as a partner, and this partnership lasted until 1851. Their works included Saint John the Baptist Church, Tixall, commissioned by the Hon John Chetwynd Talbot, and the now lost Saint Thomas Church in Wednesfield. In 1860, Thomas Wyatt’s son, Matthew Wyatt (1840-1892), became his partner.
Thomas Wyatt’s practice at 77 Great Russell Street, London, was extensive with a large amount of work in Wiltshire, thanks to the patronage of the Herbert family, and in Monmouthshire through the Beaufort connection. Wyatt worked in many styles ranging from the Italianate of Wilton through to the Gothic of many of his churches.
Inside Saint Bartholomew’s Church, Ballsbridge … the church has a unique place in the history of Victorian church architecture in Ireland (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Wyatt probably received the commission for Saint Bartholomew’s Church, Ballsbridge, in the expanding, comfortable Victorian suburbs of south Dublin, through the patronage of the Herbert family who were the landlords of that part of Dublin. As the Earls of Pembroke, they give their name to a new township based on Ballsbridge. Wyatt worked closely with Sidney Herbert, younger brother of the Earl of Pembroke, who administered the family estates and donated the site for the ‘Pembroke District Church.’
Sidney Herbert was a brother-in-law of Thomas Vesey (1803-1875), the 3rd Viscount de Vesci, who married Lady Emma, daughter of George Herbert, 11th Earl of Pembroke. Lord de Vesci had commissioned Wyatt to restore Abbeyleix House, Co Laois, and to design the parish church of Saint Michael and All Angels in Abbeyleix.
Sidney Herbert, who had sent Florence Nightingale to Scutari during the Crimean War, was the father-in-law of both the theologian Friedrich von Hügel and the composer Hubert Parry. He lived at Mount Merrion in south Dublin and was managing the Pembroke estates when the site for Saint Bartholomew’s was donated and Wyatt was commissioned to design the new church.
Wyatt’s also enlarged and altered Saint Mary’s Church in Gowran, Co Kilkenny. He also reported on the completion of the restoration of Saint Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny, and worked on several Irish country houses, including Abbeyleix, Co Laois, for Lord de Vesci, Ramsfort, Co Wexford, for Stephen Ram, Lissadell House, Co Sligo, for the Gore-Booth family, and Palmerstown House, Co Kildare, for the de Burgh family.
The font in Saint Bartholomew’s was a personal gift to the church by Thomas Henry Wyatt (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The font in Saint Bartholomew’s Church was his personal gift to the church. He died on 5 August 1880 leaving an estate of £30,000, and is buried at Weston Patrick.
Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt of Cambridge designed 24-25 Grafton Street, Dublin … today it is stripped of its original ground-floor shopfront (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Thomas Wyatt’s younger brother and former pupil, Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt (1820-1877), was an art historian and the first Slade Professor of Fine Art at Cambridge. He too also worked in Ireland, and he designed Nos 24-25 Grafton Street, Dublin, in the ‘Celtic revival’ style for William Longfield.
This building had one of the finest Romanesque façades until the ground floor was vandalised to make way for modern shopfronts. The original shopfront combined details from many churches and cathedrals, including the doorway in Saint Lachtain’s Church, Freshford, Co Kilkenny, crosses from Monasterboice, Co Louth, and the chancel arch and crosses from Saint Mary’s Cathedral, Tuam, Co Galway.
The first and second floors, which have survived, have two super-imposed Romanesque arcades. Above them, the third floor looks like a Venetian loggia. The rich details throughout these three floors include interlaced capitals, keystone masks, foliated string courses, and chevron or saw-tooth ornamentation.
In 1863, the Irish Builder hoped Wyatt would ‘stimulate many an Irish architect to … recreate a national style,’ and praised the building for being ‘at once novel and successful.’
A continuing link
The grave of John Wyatt (died 1820) in Weeford Churchyard (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The grave of the journalist Woodrow Wyatt in Weeford Churchyard (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
As I strolled through Saint Mary’s churchyard in Weeford, I came across other interesting members of the Wyatt family, and more recent family members, including the former amateur cricketer and captain of Warwickshire, Worcestershire and England, Robert Elliott Storey (Bob) Wyatt (1901-1995), and the politician, journalist and chairman of the Tote, Woodrow Wyatt (1918-1997), who was made Lord Wyatt of Weeford by Margaret Thatcher and who is also buried in the churchyard.
The Old Schoolhouse in Weeford continues to celebrate the Wyatt name (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Across the country lane from the churchyard, the Wyatt dynasty is remembered in the Wyatt Pavilion, a popular wedding venue incorporated into the bar and restaurant in the old schoolhouse.
Conclusions:
Wyatt windows in a terrace of houses in Rathkeale, Co Limerick (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Wyatt windows in the Mall House, the former Comerford family home in Bunclody, Co Wexford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Thomas Wyatt has been described unfairly by John Betjeman as ‘one of the dullest Victorian architects.’ On the other hand, despite Pugin’s scorn and contempt for James Wyatt, John Betjeman has praised him for his ‘symphony’ of ‘exquisite plaster, marble and painted details.’
James Wyatt has been acclaimed both as ‘the successor to Robert Adam as England’s most fashionable architect in the classical idiom,’ and for his ‘mastery of the Gothic style.’ Sir Nikolaus Pevsner has called his work at Woolwich ‘one of the most important pieces of military architecture’ in Britain.
But James Wyatt is also controversial, because he is also taken to task for having followed fashions in a superficial way, and to Pugin he was ‘a monster of architectural depravity’ for his insensitive work at Lichfield and other cathedrals.
Little of Wyatt’s work at Lichfield Cathedral survived the later Victorian restoration and rebuilding. Pevsner has pointed out that much of Lichfield Cathedral, as it is today, is George Gilbert Scott’s work, including mouldings, capitals and statues, and most of the window tracery.
The finest surviving works by the Wyatt family in Staffordshire are Shugborough and Swinfen Hall.
If you wish to see their legacy in this part of Staffordshire, then visit Swinfen Hall, take a stroll through Weeford, or admire the work in Lichfield of James Wyatt’s pupil, Joseph Potter (1756-1842), including Newtown’s College in the Close (1800), the Causeway Bridge at Bird Street (1816), and Holy Cross Church, Upper Saint John Street, Lichfield (1835).
Potter’s other works in Lichfield and the surrounding area include:
● Christ Church, Burntwood (1819-1820);
● Chetwynd Bridge, Alrewas (1824);
● Freeford Hall, enlarged for the Dyott family (1826-1827);
● The High Bridge, Armitage (1829-1830);
● Saint John Baptist Roman Catholic Church, Tamworth (1829-1830).
His son, Joseph Potter Jnr. (1797-1875), took over his architectural practice and designed the Guildhall (1846-1848) and the Clock Tower (1863) in Lichfield.
Appendix 1: Wyatt works in Staffordshire:
Benjamin Wyatt I (1709-1772):
Blackbrook Farmhouse, Weeford (pre 1750), Wyatt family home in Weeford.
Swinfen Hall (1755-1757), for Samuel Swinfen.
Soho House, Handsworth (1769) for Matthew Boulton.
Benjamin Wyatt senior’s other works in Staffordshire include the General Hospital in Foregate Street, Stafford (1766-1771).
Samuel Wyatt (1737-1807):
Soho House (1789), extended for Matthew Boulton.
Shugborough House (1790, 1806), Milford Lodges and portico 1794 in front of 1693 house.
James Wyatt (1746-1813):
Lichfield Cathedral (1788-1795): restoration work.
Packington Hall, for the Babington and Levett families.
Little Aston Hall (late 18th century), rebuilt by Edward J Payne (1857-1859).
Soho House (1796), added main entrance front for Matthew Boulton.
Saint Mary’s Church, Weeford (1802).
Alton Towers (Pevsner is unable to determine the extent of his contribution).
Canwell Hall: added two wings (demolished 1957).
Thomas Wyatt (1807):
Saint John the Baptist Church, Tixall (1849), Wyatt and Brandon, commissioned by John Chetwynd Talbot.
Saint Thomas Church, Wednesfield (1842-1843), chancel by Wyatt and Brandon, burnt in 1902, rebuilt by FT Beck (1903).
Appendix 2: A search in vain
The Weeford Parish Register records the four children of James Wyatt (1717-1783) and his wife Elizabeth Somerford or Sommerford. This James Wyatt was a son of John Wyatt (1675-1742) and Jane Jackson (1677-1739). He was the youngest child in a family of eight sons and one daughter, and he was a younger brother of William Wyatt (1702-1772) and Benjamin Wyatt (1709-1772), the ancestors of the Wyatt architectural dynasty.
James Wyatt and John Wyatt, probably twins, the sons of James Wyatt and Elizabeth Somerford, were baptised on 22 January 1760. Infant mortality also struck this couple, and the two boys died later that year: John was buried on 23 September and James was buried on 20 December 1760. The baptism of a daughter Mary in 1762 is not noted, although the register records her burial in Weeford later that year on 22 October 1762, without naming her parents. A third son, also James Wyatt, son of James Wyatt and Elizabeth Somerford, was baptised on 24 May 1763. A fourth son, John Wyatt, son of James Wyatt and Elizabeth Sommerford, was baptised in Weeford on 27 December 1765.
Despite the heartbreak of infant mortality, James and Elizabeth appear to have been determined to keep the names James and John in the family. The second John Wyatt died in 1791.
James Wyatt was buried in Weeford on 15 August 1783. An entry on 23 February 1804 records: ‘Elizabeth Somerford from Lichfield, bur[ied], Copied to here.’ This is probably his widow, although this is not clear from the burial register; if she is his widow, one wonders why her married name is not used.
Weeford is less than 10 miles south of Comberford, in the neighbouring parish of Wigginton, and there is at least one record showing how close the two villages are with the burial of ‘John, s[on] of Edw[ard] Lakin of Cumberford’ on 27 November 1726.
As the register shows, the spelling of surnames did not become standardised until later in the 19th century, and I wondered whether some descendants of the Comberford family of Comberford that I had not known of may have continued to live in this part of Staffordshire for longer than my researches had shown.
Indeed, it would have been interesting to come across a marriage between the Wyatt and Comerford families, just at a time when the Comerfords were introducing Wyatt-style windows to the domestic architecture of Newtownbarry (Bunclody).
But I was quickly dissuaded. Perhaps Sommerford and Somerford were not misspellinsg for Comberford or Comerford, but derived from Somerford, about 18 miles west of Weeford and a mile east of Brewood, the same Somerford that also gave its name to Somerford Place in Willenhall, where Norman W Tildesley, the editor of this volume, lived in the 1950s.
Thomas Somerford of Somerford Hall, his wife, his mother and his children were Quakers by the 1680s. But the Somerford family had sold or lost Somerford Hall by 1705. If Elizabeth Wyatt is descended from that family I have yet to discover how.
Some sources:
‘The Wyatt Dynasty’, the Victorian Web, http://www.victorianweb.org/art/architecture/misc/wyattdyn.html (last accessed 22 April 2018).
Rosemary Hill, God’s Architect: Pugin and the Building of Romantic Britain (London: Penguin, 2007).
(Sir) Nikolaus Pevsner, Staffordshire, The Buildings of England (Harmondsworth Penguin, 1974).
John Martin Robinson, The Wyatts: An Architectural Dynasty (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1979).
Norman W Tildesley (ed), Weeford Parish Registers, Baptism, Marriages, Burials 1562-1812 (Wednesbury: Staffordshire Parish Registers Society, 1955).
Reginald Turnor, Nineteenth Century Architecture in Britain (London: Batsford, 1950).
Chris Woodcock, Notes on a line of the Galloway Family (2016).
Biographical Note:
(Revd Canon Professor) Patrick Comerford is an Anglican priest living in retirement in Stony Stratford, Buckinghamshire. He is a former professor at Trinity College Dublin, lectured in church history and liturgy at the Church of Ireland Theological Institute, and spent many years in ministry in the Church of Ireland. He has family links with the Tamworth area that stretch back generations and centuries. He blogs daily at www.patrickcomerford.com, where many of his postings are about life, history and architecture in the Tamworth and Lichfield area.
Patrick Comerford
Tamworth and District Civic Society,
Christopher’s, Peel Hotel,
Aldergate, Tamworth
7:30 p.m., 11 April 2024
Introduction
There are several interesting architectural dynasties in the 19th century, including the Hardwick, Barry, Pugin and Scott families. But the Wyatt family tree stretches back much further than any of these, and the Wyatt family stands out for the variety and influence of its work by five or six generations of influential English architects in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.
The best-known member of this dynasty was, perhaps, James Wyatt (1746-1813), although his work on rebuilding and restoring Lichfield Cathedral at the end of the 18th century drew the opprobrium of the greatest Gothic Revival architect of them all, AWN Pugin, when he visited Lichfield.
I am familiar with the work of the Wyatt family, not only because of my research on Pugin’s work, and because my family had worked on Pugin churches in the 19th century, but also because of their strong family links with the Tamworth and Lichfield area, because of Wyatt contributions to the architectural shape of Sidney Sussex College in Cambridge, and because of one unique architectural feature – Wyatt Windows – which are found in large measure in two towns in Ireland: in Bunclody, Co Wexford, which was the Irish home town of my father’s ancestors, and Rathkeale, the principal town in the group of parishes in the Diocese of Limerick in south-west Ireland where I was the priest-in-charge for five years (2017-2022).
Visiting Weeford
Saint Mary’s Church in Weeford … generations of the Wyatt family were baptised, married and buried there (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
I was reminded once again of the Wyatt family’s prolific work and unique contribution throughout these islands on a visit some time ago to Weeford, between Tamworth and Lichfield, which has been associated with the Wyatt family for almost six centuries.
Weeford is one of the five original ‘prebends’ in Lichfield Cathedral (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Weeford is 9 km (5.6 miles) west of Tamworth and 6 km (four miles) south of Lichfield, close to Toll 4 on the M6, but is in quiet rural Staffordshire. It is mentioned in the Domesday Book and it was one of the five original ‘prebends’ that paid ‘wax Scot’ or ‘Plough Alms’ to Lichfield Cathedral from the beginning of the 12th century. Indeed, there was a church in Weeford for many centuries, and there is still a stall for the Prebendary of Weeford in the chapter stalls in Lichfield Cathedral.
The Weeford Parish Registers are a valuable tool for genealogists and local historian (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
In Lichfield, I recently bought a copy of the old parish registers for Saint Mary’s, dating back to 1562. The Weeford Parish Register was prepared for the Staffordshire Parish Register Society and edited by the society secretary, Norman W Tildesley of Somerford Place, Willenhall, and printed privately in Wednesbury around 1954-1956.
The Weeford parish registers of baptisms, marriages and burials date from 1562 and continue until 1812. They were transcribed by HR Thomas of Wolverhampton. On the back of the fly leaf of the first register are two interesting prayers written in an unformed hand:
By thy crucified body deliver me from the body of this death.
O let this blood of thine purge my conscience from vain works to serve the living God.
A footbridge over the Blackbrook River in Weeford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The registers record not just baptisms, marriages and burials, but the events too that led to these rites of passage. An entry in 1614 records: ‘Buried: Roger Whately, a Carrier, that was murthered at Weeford Park on Sundaie the 27th November, buried the last of November.’
There is a moving entry from 13 February 1745: ‘Buried a woman that came to ask charity at Packington Hall and died in the fold there.’
On 13 March 1758, the registers record the death of ‘James Holmes who was kill’d by a waggon wheel at Mr Manley’s of Swinfen.’ An unnamed ‘Travelling Irishman’ is recorded as being baptised on 15 August 1759, although this must surely refer to a burial. On 24 February 1760, we read of the death of ‘Mr Joseph Grundy from Swinfen Hall, who was killed by being ‘thrown off a load of Hay.’
Some of the entries record family tragedies in very simple terms. Jone (Joan) Basford, the daughter of Raphe Basford, was baptised on 28 January 1571, ‘and was burried [sic] the morrow after.’ An unknown stranger is buried on 3 February 1578 without being named. Thomas Thickbrome’s two daughters, Margaret and Ellin, are buried within ten days of each other in October 1580. Robert and Constance Turner, brother and sister, were baptised on 7 March 1586 – and both were buried five days later. Charles, the son of Joseph and Mary Wyatt, was baptised on 27 November 1757, and buried the next day.
To read this high rate of infant mortality, even centuries later, is heart-rending.
Thomas Tew and Ales Mustard were married on 2 December 1574, and their son William was baptised three weeks later, on Christmas Day 25 December 1574. The registers can be quite blunt, or even cruel, in commenting on domestic situations. A child baptised in 1576, and another in 1578, are each described as spurius, while a child baptised in 1584 is said to be ‘baseborne.’
There are three sad entries, one after another, on 2 August 1591, beginning with the burial of Elizabeth Maxfield, noting ‘The said Elizabeth Maxfield a little before her death of two sonnes, the name of the first is Edward, the other Thomas, the father of the said children is unknown.’ The writer then goes on to record the baptisms that day of each new-born child.
A child found in the church porch ‘was baptized by the name of Anne, according to the Cannon [sic]’ on 31 December 1637.
There are few entries for baptisms during the Cromwellian era (1649-1660) and the entries are poorly organised, indicating the strong Puritan streak among the ministers appointed to the parish, although this does not necessarily mean the parishioners agreed with the ministers imposed on them.
The four main families in the parish were Swinfen of Swinfen Hall, Levett of Packington Hall, Manley of Manley Hall and Lawley of Canwell Hall. Packington Hall had been built by James Wyatt for the Babington family, and later passed by marriage to the Levett family.
Early Wyatts in Weeford
An outline of the Wyatt family tree (Wikipedia)
As an indication of the social prejudices of the day, families like these tend to receive more attentive entries in the register. John and Ann Swinfen were witnesses on 14 October 1790 at the marriage of ‘The Honourable John Colvill, eldest son and heir apparent of the Right Honourable John, Lord Colvill of Culrooss in Scotland and Elizabeth Ford of Swinfen.’ It is interesting to note that Elizabeth’s parentage is not referred to.
These registers show that the Wyatt family was living in the parish since at least as early as 1540, if not earlier. The baptism of Thomas Wyatt, son of Robert Wyatt, on 29 July 1562, is the fifth entry recorded in the registers, and is followed by two daughters, Margery in 1565 and Margaret in 1567.
Entries for members of the Wyatt family, including inter-marriages within the family, continue for generations and for centuries. There are Wyatt memorials in the parish church and Wyatt graves scattered throughout the churchyard.
There were Wyatts in Weeford from before 1540, when William Wyatt was the father of Humphrey Wyatt, and the Wyatt architectural dynasty can be traced back to William Wyatt of Thickbroom, near Weeford, who died in 1572.
The Wyatt dynasty was consolidated by a great number of marriages between cousins – over 20 in all, with eight in one generation alone. Wyatt family members often worked together in the architectural world. But the family also includes artists, painters, sculptors and journalists.
The grave in the churchyard in Weeford of John Wyatt (1675-1742), his wife Jane (1677-1739), their son Benjamin Wyatt (1709-1772) and other family members (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Edward Wyatt, who was buried in Weeford in 1572, was the great-great-grandfather of Edward Wyatt (1632-1705), whose son, John Wyatt (1675-1742) from Thickbroom in Weeford, was the immediate ancestor of this outstanding architectural dynasty.
This John Wyatt married Jane Jackson (1677-1739) on 4 June 1699, and they were the parents of at least nine children, eight sons and one daughter. Their eldest son, John Wyatt (1700-1766), who was probably born in Thickbroom and baptised in Weeford parish church, was also related to Sarah Ford, the mother of Dr Samuel Johnson.
John was a carpenter by trade, and worked in Birmingham, where he became a talented inventor. His inventions included a compound lever weighing machine for weighing loaded wagons, and he developed a spinning machine that predated Richard Arkwright’s ‘Spinning Jenny.’
The second son of John and Jane Wyatt of Thickbroom was William Wyatt (1701-1772) of Sinai Park House, near Burton-upon-Trent. A surveyor, who was steward to the Paget family, and was involved in their unpopular enclosures of land in Staffordshire.
I shall return to his descendants and their architectural legacy later on.
Architectural genius
Swinfen Hall … the finest architectural achievement of Benjamin Wyatt (1709-1772)
Among John Wyatt’s eight sons, the first to work as an architect was Benjamin Wyatt I (1709-1772). He too was baptised in Weeford, in 1709, and in the same church he married Mary Wright on 27 May 1731.
He was a ‘farmer, timber merchant, building contractor and sometime architect.’ Benjamin and Mary Wyatt were living at Coton, near Tamworth, before he built his own house, Blackbrook in Weeford, which was home to seven generations of the Wyatt family.
Benjamin Wyatt’s finest architectural achievement was Swinfen Hall, between Weeford and Lichfield, which he built in 1757 for Samuel Swinfen and his wife. Half a century ago, Sir Nikolaus Pevsner observed in 1974: ‘Much more ought to be found out about the house.’ I think this has been rectified in recent decades.
Around 1769, Benjamin Wyatt built Soho House in Handsworth (then in Staffordshire), the Birmingham home of Matthew Boulton (1728-1809), a Birmingham industrialist and a member of the Lunar Society. Later work on the house was carried out by two of John’s sons, Samuel Wyatt (1737-1807), who extended the house in 1789, and James Wyatt (1746-1813), who added the main entrance (1796).
Other works in Staffordshire by Benjamin Wyatt senior include the General Hospital in Foregate Street, Stafford (1766-1771).
The gate lodge of Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge … part of the alterations by Sir Jeffry Wyatville in 1832 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Benjamin and Mary Wyatt had a large family. Their eldest son, William Wyatt (1734-1781), was a land surveyor and inclosure commissioner, and he married his first cousin, Sarah Wyatt of Sinai Park.
Their second son, John Wyatt (1735-1797), was a successful surgeon in London. He returned to Weeford to marry Catherine Anderson on 31 March 1761, when his parents were still living at Blackbrook Farm, and when he died in 1797 he was buried in Weeford too.
Another son, Samuel Wyatt (1737-1807), nicknamed ‘Chip’ because he was also a carpenter, was an architect and builder. He married his cousin, Jane Wyatt. His works include Trinity House on Tower Hill, which has been described as ‘the last word in Georgian elegance.’
Pevsner says Samuel Wyatt was ‘the best architect to work at Shugborough’, which was originally built in 1693. He designed what Pevsner calls the ‘grandest portico in Staffordshire by far,’ the eight-column giant portico set in front of the house in 1794.
He also added the awkwardly projecting saloon, former dining room and drawing room, and the elliptical entrance hall, and designed the Milford Lodges at the entrance.
The next son, Joseph Wyatt (1739-1785), who married his cousin Myrtilla Wyatt, was the father of Sir Jeffry Wyatville (1766-1840). He changed his surname from Wyatt to Wyatville (frequently misspelled Wyattville in south Dublin housing estates), and Sir Jeffry Wyatville was responsible for significant works at Windsor Castle and Chatsworth House.
I have first-hand familiarity with Jeffry Wyatville’s alterations to Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge, in 1832, including the gatehouse. Under his supervision, the exterior brick of Sidney Sussex College was covered with a layer of cement, the existing buildings were heightened slightly, and the architectural effect was also heightened.
Benjamin and Mary Wyatt were also the parents of Benjamin Wyatt II (1744-1818), who moved to Wales in 1785 and was the agent to Lord Penrhyn.
James Wyatt and Lichfield Cathedral
Lichfield Cathedral … Pugin called James Wyatt a ‘wretch,’ a ‘pest’ and a ‘monster of architectural depravity’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
But the most famous son of Benjamin and Mary Wyatt was James Wyatt (1746-1813), who was born at Blackbrook Farmhouse near Weeford, and became the most acclaimed and influential architect of his age.
His first major building, the Pantheon in Oxford Street, London, was described by Horace Walpole as ‘the most beautiful edifice in England.’ Sadly, this building burned to the ground in a spectacular fire in 1792, only 20 years after its opening. The site is now occupied by the Oxford Street branch of Marks and Spencer.
James Wyatt became the Surveyor General and was involved in the Radcliffe Observatory in Oxford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
In 1792, James Wyatt was appointed the Surveyor General, which effectively made him England’s most prominent architect. He was also involved in works at Windsor Castle, Kew Gardens, the Radcliffe Observatory in Oxford, and the restoration of the House of Lords. His other acclaimed works include Fonthill Abbey near Hindon, in Wiltshire, Broadway Tower in Worcestershire, the folly on the second highest point of the Cotswolds, Heveningham Hall in Suffolk, Ashbridge Park in Hertfordshire, and the Royal Military Academy at Woolwich.
He also worked on Alton Towers for the Earls of Shrewsbury, although Pevsner was unable to determine the extent of his contribution.
James Wyatt rebuilt Saint Mary’s Church in Weeford in 1802-1804, now a Grade 2 Listed Building, and donated the altar, pulpit, screens, font and ornamental furnishings. Other family members involved in rebuilding the church included James Wyatt’s nephew, Lewis William Wyatt (1777-1853), son of Benjamin Wyatt II (1744-1853).
James Wyatt began working on the restoration of Lichfield Cathedral in 1788 – his first cathedral task – and worked until here 1795. He oversaw work to remove 500 tons of stone from the nave roof, replacing it with lath and plaster, and effectively saving the cathedral from collapse. He blocked up the four western choir arches, removed or altered the screen, put a glass screen in the east arch of the crossing, and added the two heavy buttresses outside the south transept. He also largely rebuilt the central spire.
The architect on the site was Joseph Potter senior.
When the great figure in the Gothic Revival, AWN Pugin, first visited Lichfield in 1834, over 20 years after James Wyatt had died, he was taken aback by his refurbishment of the cathedral 30 years earlier and believed the fabric of the cathedral had been mutilated by James Wyatt – and he also described Lichfield as ‘a dull place – without anything remarkable.’
Pugin described Wyatt as a ‘Wretch,’ a ‘pest,’ an ‘accursed tutor’ and a ‘monster.’ He declared: ‘Yes – this monster of architectural depravity, this pest of Cathedral architecture, has been here. need I say more.’
Referring to another Lichfield architect, Joseph Potter, Pugin said: ‘The man I am sorry to say – who executes the repairs of the building was a pupil of the Wretch himself and has imbibed all the vicious propensities of his accursed tutor without one spark of even practical ability to atone for his misdeeds.’
James Wyatt’s major neoclassical country houses include Packington Hall, two miles from Lichfield and 4.5 miles from Tamworth, and the home of the Babington and then the Levett family for generations.
James Wyatt’s major works in Ireland include Castle Coole, the Enniskillen home of the Earls of Belmore, Lady Anne Dawson’s mausoleum in Dartrey, Co Monaghan, the interiors of Curraghmore for Lord Waterford, and Avondale House, Co Wicklow, the family home of the Irish patriot Charles Stewart Parnell.
It interesting to note his broad and sweeping influence on the design of houses in towns such as Carlow, Bunclody (Newtownbarry), Co Wexford, and Rathkeale, Co Limerick, for example.
Wyatt windows can be seen in many buildings in Bunclody, including the former Comerford family home (until recently the Post Office). The rectory, built in 1808, has windows that diminish in scale on each floor in the classical manner, producing a graduated visual impression, once again in a style inspired by James Wyatt. Wyatt windows can be seen too in some of the many once-elegant Georgian townhouses in Rathkeale.
James Wyatt was also briefly the President of the Royal Academy (1804). His life came to an abrupt end on 4 September 1813, when the chariot-and-four in which he was travelling overturned on the Marlborough Downs. He was buried in the South Transept in Westminster Abbey.
James Wyatt’s second son and pupil, Benjamin Dean Wyatt (1775-1852), built the Theatre Royal in Drury Lane, London, and was also the Surveyor at Westminster Abbey. Another son was the sculptor Matthew Cotes Wyatt (1778-1862).
The Irish work of the dynasty
Thomas Henry Wyatt built Saint Bartholomew’s Church, Ballsbridge, in 1864-1867 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
I said I would return to William Wyatt (1701-1772), the elder brother of Benjamin Wyatt (1709-1772). This William Wyatt was the grandfather of Matthew Wyatt (1773-1831), who studied law instead of architecture. He moved briefly to Ireland when he was appointed a barrister and police magistrate in Roscommon.
Matthew Wyatt’s son, Thomas Henry Wyatt (1807-1880), was born at Loughlynn House, Co Roscommon, on 9 May 1807. Although he was born in Ireland, he is often regarded as an English architect.
When Thomas was about 11, the Wyatt family returned to England in 1818, and his brother, Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt (1820-1877), was born in Rowde, Wiltshire. By 1825, the family was living in Lambeth.
Thomas Wyatt first began a career as a merchant sailing to the Mediterranean. But he returned to the family’s tradition of architecture, and his early training was in the office of Philip Hardwick. There he worked until 1832, and was involved in work on Goldsmiths Hall, Euston Station and the warehouses at Saint Katharine Docks.
He began to practice on his own as an architect in 1832, and became the District Surveyor for Hackney, a post he held until 1861.
He married his first cousin, Arabella Montagu Wyatt (1807-1875), a daughter of his uncle, Arthur Wyatt, who was the agent of the Duke of Beaufort. By 1838, he had acquired substantial patronage from the Duke of Beaufort, the Earl of Denbigh and Sidney Herbert (1810-1861). David Brandon joined Wyatt as a partner, and this partnership lasted until 1851. Their works included Saint John the Baptist Church, Tixall, commissioned by the Hon John Chetwynd Talbot, and the now lost Saint Thomas Church in Wednesfield. In 1860, Thomas Wyatt’s son, Matthew Wyatt (1840-1892), became his partner.
Thomas Wyatt’s practice at 77 Great Russell Street, London, was extensive with a large amount of work in Wiltshire, thanks to the patronage of the Herbert family, and in Monmouthshire through the Beaufort connection. Wyatt worked in many styles ranging from the Italianate of Wilton through to the Gothic of many of his churches.
Inside Saint Bartholomew’s Church, Ballsbridge … the church has a unique place in the history of Victorian church architecture in Ireland (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Wyatt probably received the commission for Saint Bartholomew’s Church, Ballsbridge, in the expanding, comfortable Victorian suburbs of south Dublin, through the patronage of the Herbert family who were the landlords of that part of Dublin. As the Earls of Pembroke, they give their name to a new township based on Ballsbridge. Wyatt worked closely with Sidney Herbert, younger brother of the Earl of Pembroke, who administered the family estates and donated the site for the ‘Pembroke District Church.’
Sidney Herbert was a brother-in-law of Thomas Vesey (1803-1875), the 3rd Viscount de Vesci, who married Lady Emma, daughter of George Herbert, 11th Earl of Pembroke. Lord de Vesci had commissioned Wyatt to restore Abbeyleix House, Co Laois, and to design the parish church of Saint Michael and All Angels in Abbeyleix.
Sidney Herbert, who had sent Florence Nightingale to Scutari during the Crimean War, was the father-in-law of both the theologian Friedrich von Hügel and the composer Hubert Parry. He lived at Mount Merrion in south Dublin and was managing the Pembroke estates when the site for Saint Bartholomew’s was donated and Wyatt was commissioned to design the new church.
Wyatt’s also enlarged and altered Saint Mary’s Church in Gowran, Co Kilkenny. He also reported on the completion of the restoration of Saint Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny, and worked on several Irish country houses, including Abbeyleix, Co Laois, for Lord de Vesci, Ramsfort, Co Wexford, for Stephen Ram, Lissadell House, Co Sligo, for the Gore-Booth family, and Palmerstown House, Co Kildare, for the de Burgh family.
The font in Saint Bartholomew’s was a personal gift to the church by Thomas Henry Wyatt (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The font in Saint Bartholomew’s Church was his personal gift to the church. He died on 5 August 1880 leaving an estate of £30,000, and is buried at Weston Patrick.
Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt of Cambridge designed 24-25 Grafton Street, Dublin … today it is stripped of its original ground-floor shopfront (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Thomas Wyatt’s younger brother and former pupil, Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt (1820-1877), was an art historian and the first Slade Professor of Fine Art at Cambridge. He too also worked in Ireland, and he designed Nos 24-25 Grafton Street, Dublin, in the ‘Celtic revival’ style for William Longfield.
This building had one of the finest Romanesque façades until the ground floor was vandalised to make way for modern shopfronts. The original shopfront combined details from many churches and cathedrals, including the doorway in Saint Lachtain’s Church, Freshford, Co Kilkenny, crosses from Monasterboice, Co Louth, and the chancel arch and crosses from Saint Mary’s Cathedral, Tuam, Co Galway.
The first and second floors, which have survived, have two super-imposed Romanesque arcades. Above them, the third floor looks like a Venetian loggia. The rich details throughout these three floors include interlaced capitals, keystone masks, foliated string courses, and chevron or saw-tooth ornamentation.
In 1863, the Irish Builder hoped Wyatt would ‘stimulate many an Irish architect to … recreate a national style,’ and praised the building for being ‘at once novel and successful.’
A continuing link
The grave of John Wyatt (died 1820) in Weeford Churchyard (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The grave of the journalist Woodrow Wyatt in Weeford Churchyard (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
As I strolled through Saint Mary’s churchyard in Weeford, I came across other interesting members of the Wyatt family, and more recent family members, including the former amateur cricketer and captain of Warwickshire, Worcestershire and England, Robert Elliott Storey (Bob) Wyatt (1901-1995), and the politician, journalist and chairman of the Tote, Woodrow Wyatt (1918-1997), who was made Lord Wyatt of Weeford by Margaret Thatcher and who is also buried in the churchyard.
The Old Schoolhouse in Weeford continues to celebrate the Wyatt name (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Across the country lane from the churchyard, the Wyatt dynasty is remembered in the Wyatt Pavilion, a popular wedding venue incorporated into the bar and restaurant in the old schoolhouse.
Conclusions:
Wyatt windows in a terrace of houses in Rathkeale, Co Limerick (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Wyatt windows in the Mall House, the former Comerford family home in Bunclody, Co Wexford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Thomas Wyatt has been described unfairly by John Betjeman as ‘one of the dullest Victorian architects.’ On the other hand, despite Pugin’s scorn and contempt for James Wyatt, John Betjeman has praised him for his ‘symphony’ of ‘exquisite plaster, marble and painted details.’
James Wyatt has been acclaimed both as ‘the successor to Robert Adam as England’s most fashionable architect in the classical idiom,’ and for his ‘mastery of the Gothic style.’ Sir Nikolaus Pevsner has called his work at Woolwich ‘one of the most important pieces of military architecture’ in Britain.
But James Wyatt is also controversial, because he is also taken to task for having followed fashions in a superficial way, and to Pugin he was ‘a monster of architectural depravity’ for his insensitive work at Lichfield and other cathedrals.
Little of Wyatt’s work at Lichfield Cathedral survived the later Victorian restoration and rebuilding. Pevsner has pointed out that much of Lichfield Cathedral, as it is today, is George Gilbert Scott’s work, including mouldings, capitals and statues, and most of the window tracery.
The finest surviving works by the Wyatt family in Staffordshire are Shugborough and Swinfen Hall.
If you wish to see their legacy in this part of Staffordshire, then visit Swinfen Hall, take a stroll through Weeford, or admire the work in Lichfield of James Wyatt’s pupil, Joseph Potter (1756-1842), including Newtown’s College in the Close (1800), the Causeway Bridge at Bird Street (1816), and Holy Cross Church, Upper Saint John Street, Lichfield (1835).
Potter’s other works in Lichfield and the surrounding area include:
● Christ Church, Burntwood (1819-1820);
● Chetwynd Bridge, Alrewas (1824);
● Freeford Hall, enlarged for the Dyott family (1826-1827);
● The High Bridge, Armitage (1829-1830);
● Saint John Baptist Roman Catholic Church, Tamworth (1829-1830).
His son, Joseph Potter Jnr. (1797-1875), took over his architectural practice and designed the Guildhall (1846-1848) and the Clock Tower (1863) in Lichfield.
Appendix 1: Wyatt works in Staffordshire:
Benjamin Wyatt I (1709-1772):
Blackbrook Farmhouse, Weeford (pre 1750), Wyatt family home in Weeford.
Swinfen Hall (1755-1757), for Samuel Swinfen.
Soho House, Handsworth (1769) for Matthew Boulton.
Benjamin Wyatt senior’s other works in Staffordshire include the General Hospital in Foregate Street, Stafford (1766-1771).
Samuel Wyatt (1737-1807):
Soho House (1789), extended for Matthew Boulton.
Shugborough House (1790, 1806), Milford Lodges and portico 1794 in front of 1693 house.
James Wyatt (1746-1813):
Lichfield Cathedral (1788-1795): restoration work.
Packington Hall, for the Babington and Levett families.
Little Aston Hall (late 18th century), rebuilt by Edward J Payne (1857-1859).
Soho House (1796), added main entrance front for Matthew Boulton.
Saint Mary’s Church, Weeford (1802).
Alton Towers (Pevsner is unable to determine the extent of his contribution).
Canwell Hall: added two wings (demolished 1957).
Thomas Wyatt (1807):
Saint John the Baptist Church, Tixall (1849), Wyatt and Brandon, commissioned by John Chetwynd Talbot.
Saint Thomas Church, Wednesfield (1842-1843), chancel by Wyatt and Brandon, burnt in 1902, rebuilt by FT Beck (1903).
Appendix 2: A search in vain
The Weeford Parish Register records the four children of James Wyatt (1717-1783) and his wife Elizabeth Somerford or Sommerford. This James Wyatt was a son of John Wyatt (1675-1742) and Jane Jackson (1677-1739). He was the youngest child in a family of eight sons and one daughter, and he was a younger brother of William Wyatt (1702-1772) and Benjamin Wyatt (1709-1772), the ancestors of the Wyatt architectural dynasty.
James Wyatt and John Wyatt, probably twins, the sons of James Wyatt and Elizabeth Somerford, were baptised on 22 January 1760. Infant mortality also struck this couple, and the two boys died later that year: John was buried on 23 September and James was buried on 20 December 1760. The baptism of a daughter Mary in 1762 is not noted, although the register records her burial in Weeford later that year on 22 October 1762, without naming her parents. A third son, also James Wyatt, son of James Wyatt and Elizabeth Somerford, was baptised on 24 May 1763. A fourth son, John Wyatt, son of James Wyatt and Elizabeth Sommerford, was baptised in Weeford on 27 December 1765.
Despite the heartbreak of infant mortality, James and Elizabeth appear to have been determined to keep the names James and John in the family. The second John Wyatt died in 1791.
James Wyatt was buried in Weeford on 15 August 1783. An entry on 23 February 1804 records: ‘Elizabeth Somerford from Lichfield, bur[ied], Copied to here.’ This is probably his widow, although this is not clear from the burial register; if she is his widow, one wonders why her married name is not used.
Weeford is less than 10 miles south of Comberford, in the neighbouring parish of Wigginton, and there is at least one record showing how close the two villages are with the burial of ‘John, s[on] of Edw[ard] Lakin of Cumberford’ on 27 November 1726.
As the register shows, the spelling of surnames did not become standardised until later in the 19th century, and I wondered whether some descendants of the Comberford family of Comberford that I had not known of may have continued to live in this part of Staffordshire for longer than my researches had shown.
Indeed, it would have been interesting to come across a marriage between the Wyatt and Comerford families, just at a time when the Comerfords were introducing Wyatt-style windows to the domestic architecture of Newtownbarry (Bunclody).
But I was quickly dissuaded. Perhaps Sommerford and Somerford were not misspellinsg for Comberford or Comerford, but derived from Somerford, about 18 miles west of Weeford and a mile east of Brewood, the same Somerford that also gave its name to Somerford Place in Willenhall, where Norman W Tildesley, the editor of this volume, lived in the 1950s.
Thomas Somerford of Somerford Hall, his wife, his mother and his children were Quakers by the 1680s. But the Somerford family had sold or lost Somerford Hall by 1705. If Elizabeth Wyatt is descended from that family I have yet to discover how.
Some sources:
‘The Wyatt Dynasty’, the Victorian Web, http://www.victorianweb.org/art/architecture/misc/wyattdyn.html (last accessed 22 April 2018).
Rosemary Hill, God’s Architect: Pugin and the Building of Romantic Britain (London: Penguin, 2007).
(Sir) Nikolaus Pevsner, Staffordshire, The Buildings of England (Harmondsworth Penguin, 1974).
John Martin Robinson, The Wyatts: An Architectural Dynasty (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1979).
Norman W Tildesley (ed), Weeford Parish Registers, Baptism, Marriages, Burials 1562-1812 (Wednesbury: Staffordshire Parish Registers Society, 1955).
Reginald Turnor, Nineteenth Century Architecture in Britain (London: Batsford, 1950).
Chris Woodcock, Notes on a line of the Galloway Family (2016).
Biographical Note:
(Revd Canon Professor) Patrick Comerford is an Anglican priest living in retirement in Stony Stratford, Buckinghamshire. He is a former professor at Trinity College Dublin, lectured in church history and liturgy at the Church of Ireland Theological Institute, and spent many years in ministry in the Church of Ireland. He has family links with the Tamworth area that stretch back generations and centuries. He blogs daily at www.patrickcomerford.com, where many of his postings are about life, history and architecture in the Tamworth and Lichfield area.
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30 December 2023
A former rectory in
Harold’s Cross was
inspired by Wyatt’s
‘Celtic Revival’ work
The former Harold’s Cross Rectory on Leinster Road West was designed by Joseph Maguire (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
Patrick Comerford
My eldest brother found it entertaining to point out that Leinster Road West is not to the west but to the south of Leinster Road in Rathmines. Leinster Road West is an interesting street off Harold’s Cross Road, between Leinster Road and Kenilworth Square.
Although the residents of Leinster Road West probably feel more at home in Rathmines, this street runs immediately behind the Roman Catholic parish church of Harold’s Cross and two of its most interesting buildings are associated with the Church of Ireland parish of Harold’s Cross.
I went back to look again at these two buildings one morning last week during my brief pre-Christmas visit to Dublin.
No 13 Leinster Road West is now known as Marleigh House, but it was built in 1871-1872 as the glebe house for Harold’s Cross Church, then a trustee church.
The glebe house was built while the Revd William Booker Askin (1822-1907) was the chaplain in Harold’s Cross from 1857 to 1901. When Harold’s Cross was transferred to the Church of Ireland and became a parish, the glebe house became the rectory.
Joseph Maguire’s design was inspired by Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt’s adaptation of the ‘Celtic revival’ style in Grafton Street (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
The house at 13 Leinster Road West, was designed by the Dublin-born architect and engineer Joseph Maguire (1820-1904), who was then living nearby in Kenilworth Square.
In his design of Harold’s Cross Rectory, Maguire was inspired by Irish monastic and cathedral buildings, with their Romanesque arches and decorated columns. Some of this inspiration can still be detected in details of the house, including the porch, arches, columns, capitals and pillars.
Maguire may have drawn his inspiration from the original shopfront at Nos 24-25 Grafton Street, designed in the ‘Celtic revival’ style for William Longfield by Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt (1820-1877), a descendant of John Wyatt (1675-1742), of Weeford near Lichfield, and a member of an outstanding family of architects.
In his Grafton Street shopfront design in 1863, Wyatt combined details from many churches and cathedrals, including the doorway in Saint Lachtain’s Church, Freshford, Co Kilkenny, crosses from Monasterboice, Co Louth, and the chancel arch and crosses from Saint Mary’s Cathedral, Tuam, Co Galway.
The Irish Builder at the time hoped Wyatt would ‘stimulate many an Irish architect to ... recreate a national style,’ and praised it for being ‘at once novel and successful.’ It seems to have inspired Maguire, who designed the rectory for Harold’s Cross in the decade that followed.
Joseph Maguire designed the rectory in Harold’s Cross in the decade that followed Wyatt’s shopfront in Grafton Street (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
Joseph Maguire was born at 5 Saint Patrick’s Close South, Dublin, on 26 February 1820, a triplet and the tenth of the 16 children of William Maguire, inspector of taxes for the Paving Board, and his wife Mary (Vickers). He was baptised the following day in Saint Patrick's Cathedral, where his father was sexton. After his father died in 1844, Maguire moved with his mother to 9 Peter Place, and he lived until he married Mary Hayes in Rathfarnham in 1845.
Maguire was an active architect by the 1860s and 1870s, with an interest in the design of proper artisan and labourers houses and in church architecture. He was also a district agent to the Royal Insurance Company, the Dublin architect and valuator of the Royal Land, Building and Investment Company of Belfast, and architect and executive sanitary officer to the North and South Dublin Unions.
He was elected a Fellow of the Royal Institute of Architects of Ireland (FRIAI) in 1867 on the proposal of James Higgins Owen and Sir Thomas Drew, seconded by Edward Henry Carson, but resigned in 1869. He was a founding member of the Architectural Association of Ireland in 1872.
Maguire worked mainly from addresses in Great Brunswick Street (now Pearse Street), although at times he also had offices in D’Olier Street, Grafton Street and Middle Abbey Street. For most of that working life, Maguire lived in Rathgar at addresses in Kenilworth Square, including No 2 (1858), No 4 (1859), No 8 (1860-1864), No 14 (1862-1865), No 57 (1867-1881), No 50 (1882), No 59 (1883-1892). He also lived on Garville Avenue (1846-1853, 1893), Leicester Avenue (1853-1857), Rathgar Avenue (1894-1896), and Grosvenor Square. He was living at 84 Rathgar Road when he died on 2 December 1904.
The grounds of the rectory at the corner of Harold’s Cross Road and Leinster Road West were originally more extensive. Parts of the grounds were acquired from the Church of Ireland Representative Church Body by the Rathmines and Rathgar town council for road-widening in 1929.
Within a decade of the new rectory being built on Leinster Road West, a parish hall was built in 1882-1883 for Harold’s Cross opposite the rectory, on the corner of Harold’s Cross Road and Leinster Road West. It was designed by Alfred Gresham Jones (1824-1915) and his pupil Thomas Phillips Figgis (1858-1948).
The parish hall was converted into offices in 1992 and is now called Century House.
Century House was built as Harold’s Cross Parish Hall in 1882-1883 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
Patrick Comerford
My eldest brother found it entertaining to point out that Leinster Road West is not to the west but to the south of Leinster Road in Rathmines. Leinster Road West is an interesting street off Harold’s Cross Road, between Leinster Road and Kenilworth Square.
Although the residents of Leinster Road West probably feel more at home in Rathmines, this street runs immediately behind the Roman Catholic parish church of Harold’s Cross and two of its most interesting buildings are associated with the Church of Ireland parish of Harold’s Cross.
I went back to look again at these two buildings one morning last week during my brief pre-Christmas visit to Dublin.
No 13 Leinster Road West is now known as Marleigh House, but it was built in 1871-1872 as the glebe house for Harold’s Cross Church, then a trustee church.
The glebe house was built while the Revd William Booker Askin (1822-1907) was the chaplain in Harold’s Cross from 1857 to 1901. When Harold’s Cross was transferred to the Church of Ireland and became a parish, the glebe house became the rectory.
Joseph Maguire’s design was inspired by Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt’s adaptation of the ‘Celtic revival’ style in Grafton Street (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
The house at 13 Leinster Road West, was designed by the Dublin-born architect and engineer Joseph Maguire (1820-1904), who was then living nearby in Kenilworth Square.
In his design of Harold’s Cross Rectory, Maguire was inspired by Irish monastic and cathedral buildings, with their Romanesque arches and decorated columns. Some of this inspiration can still be detected in details of the house, including the porch, arches, columns, capitals and pillars.
Maguire may have drawn his inspiration from the original shopfront at Nos 24-25 Grafton Street, designed in the ‘Celtic revival’ style for William Longfield by Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt (1820-1877), a descendant of John Wyatt (1675-1742), of Weeford near Lichfield, and a member of an outstanding family of architects.
In his Grafton Street shopfront design in 1863, Wyatt combined details from many churches and cathedrals, including the doorway in Saint Lachtain’s Church, Freshford, Co Kilkenny, crosses from Monasterboice, Co Louth, and the chancel arch and crosses from Saint Mary’s Cathedral, Tuam, Co Galway.
The Irish Builder at the time hoped Wyatt would ‘stimulate many an Irish architect to ... recreate a national style,’ and praised it for being ‘at once novel and successful.’ It seems to have inspired Maguire, who designed the rectory for Harold’s Cross in the decade that followed.
Joseph Maguire designed the rectory in Harold’s Cross in the decade that followed Wyatt’s shopfront in Grafton Street (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
Joseph Maguire was born at 5 Saint Patrick’s Close South, Dublin, on 26 February 1820, a triplet and the tenth of the 16 children of William Maguire, inspector of taxes for the Paving Board, and his wife Mary (Vickers). He was baptised the following day in Saint Patrick's Cathedral, where his father was sexton. After his father died in 1844, Maguire moved with his mother to 9 Peter Place, and he lived until he married Mary Hayes in Rathfarnham in 1845.
Maguire was an active architect by the 1860s and 1870s, with an interest in the design of proper artisan and labourers houses and in church architecture. He was also a district agent to the Royal Insurance Company, the Dublin architect and valuator of the Royal Land, Building and Investment Company of Belfast, and architect and executive sanitary officer to the North and South Dublin Unions.
He was elected a Fellow of the Royal Institute of Architects of Ireland (FRIAI) in 1867 on the proposal of James Higgins Owen and Sir Thomas Drew, seconded by Edward Henry Carson, but resigned in 1869. He was a founding member of the Architectural Association of Ireland in 1872.
Maguire worked mainly from addresses in Great Brunswick Street (now Pearse Street), although at times he also had offices in D’Olier Street, Grafton Street and Middle Abbey Street. For most of that working life, Maguire lived in Rathgar at addresses in Kenilworth Square, including No 2 (1858), No 4 (1859), No 8 (1860-1864), No 14 (1862-1865), No 57 (1867-1881), No 50 (1882), No 59 (1883-1892). He also lived on Garville Avenue (1846-1853, 1893), Leicester Avenue (1853-1857), Rathgar Avenue (1894-1896), and Grosvenor Square. He was living at 84 Rathgar Road when he died on 2 December 1904.
The grounds of the rectory at the corner of Harold’s Cross Road and Leinster Road West were originally more extensive. Parts of the grounds were acquired from the Church of Ireland Representative Church Body by the Rathmines and Rathgar town council for road-widening in 1929.
Within a decade of the new rectory being built on Leinster Road West, a parish hall was built in 1882-1883 for Harold’s Cross opposite the rectory, on the corner of Harold’s Cross Road and Leinster Road West. It was designed by Alfred Gresham Jones (1824-1915) and his pupil Thomas Phillips Figgis (1858-1948).
The parish hall was converted into offices in 1992 and is now called Century House.
Century House was built as Harold’s Cross Parish Hall in 1882-1883 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
29 October 2023
Saint Ann’s Church
on Dawson Street
celebrates 300 years
in the heart of Dublin
Saint Ann’s Church, Dawson Street, Dublin, seen from Grafton Street and Ann Street … celebrating its tercentenary today (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Patrick Comerford
Saint Ann’s Church, Dawson Street, has been at the heart of the city in Dublin for 300 years, and the church is celebrating its tercentenary today (Sunday, 29 October 2023). The celebrations began with Choral Matins at 11 am led by the Vicar, Canon Paul Arbuthnot.
The preacher was Archbishop Michael Jackson of Dublin and the service was sung by Saint Ann’s Choir, with prayers will be read by the children of the parish.
The Lord Mayor of Dublin, Daithi de Roiste, and members and representatives of Dublin City Council were present, as were the Dean of Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, the Very Revd William Morton, and former vicars and curates of Saint Ann’s. The Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Dublin was represented by the Vicar General, the Very Revd Gareth Byrne.
A rich variety of representatives of Dublin’s civic and cultural life attended, includingformer Taoiseach Bertie Ahern, representatives of the diplomatic service, members of the Oireachtas, representatives of the Rotunda Hospital, Holles Street Hospital, the Royal College of Surgeons Ireland, the National Gallery, the National Library, and the Royal Irish Academy – all within the bounds of the parish.
I provided Sunday cover in Saint Ann’s ten years ago, preaching and leading Sunday services. I have also spoken at the Saturday morning ‘men’s breakfast’ in the parish and for a number of years, while I was living in Dublin, I took part in the ‘Black Santa’ sit-out, a Christmas fundraiser for local charities that has been a tradition for successive Vicars of Saint Ann’s.
Saint Ann’s Church, Dawson Street … the boundaries of a new Dublin parish were set out in an Act of Parliament in 1707 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Saint Ann’s was created as a new parish by an Act of Parliament in 1707. At the time, the suburbs of Dublin were beginning to expand in a southerly direction. Sir Joshua Dawson bought an estate between Saint Stephen’s Green and College Park in 1705, and Dawson Street, which marked the eastern boundary of this estate, was laid out in 1701 as the main street of the new suburb.
Between them, Sir Joshua Dawson and Viscount Molesworth were responsible for creating what became some of the most fashionable streets in the city centre, including: Dawson Street (1709), Grafton Street (1713), Ann Street (1718), and Molesworth Street (1725). Dawson built his own new mansion on the east side of the street in 1710, and this later became the Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord Mayor of Dublin. He also provided a site for a new church for the new parish.
Dawson Street was completed in 1728, and as the new suburb expanded rapidly it became fashionable, with Dawson Street attracting members of the aristocracy, the gentry, the professions and bishops, including the Archbishops of Dublin.
The Act of Parliament in 1707 delineating the boundaries of the new parish was entitled ‘An Act for dividing the parishes of Saint Andrew’s. Saint Nicholas Without ye Wall and the United Parishes of Saint Catherine, Saint James and Saint John’s of Kilmainham.’ Its area was defined as ‘the ground between Grafton Street and Merryon Street, all situate or being in or near the suburbs of the City of Dublin.’
A quiet moment in Saint Ann’s on a Sunday morning (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The Georgian interior was designed by Isaac Wills, who also designed Saint Werburgh’s Church (1715). Wills worked closely with Thomas Burgh, who designed the library in Trinity College Dublin at the same time as Saint Ann’s was being built. In his plans for Saint Ann’s, Willis was influenced by the new churches built in the City of London by Sir Christopher Wren after the Great Fire of 1666.
The first Vicar of Saint Ann’s, the Revd Robert Howard, was instituted on 4 November 1717, and much of the church was built by January 1721.
Soon, private pews were being reserved in the church for distinguished residents such as the Duke of Leinster, the Archbishop of Dublin and the Lord Mayor. However, the two canopied pews on the north and south galleries flanking the chancel and reserved for Duke of Leinster and the Archbishop of Dublin were removed when the interior was reordered by John Welland in 1859-1860.
The original planned baroque west front never rose above the first floor. But it was replaced in 1868 by the imposing Lombardo-Romanesque façade designed by Sir Thomas Newenham Deane. His design was inspired by two churches in Rome – the baroque façade of San Giacomo in Augusta (degli Incurabili) in central Rome and Francesco Borromini’s tower at Sant’Agnese in Agone in the Piazza Navona.
The Resurrection … the La Touche window by Heaton, Butler & Bayne, in the north aisle (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The original 18th century clear glass windows were later replaced by an interesting collection of Victorian and early 20th century stained-glass. Some windows are more notable for those they commemorate than for their quality. Yet it is said there is more stained glass per square metre in Saint Ann’s than in any other church in Dublin.
Alexander Knox (1757-1831), who is commemorated in the east window and in a mural tablet in the porch, was a well-known theologian in his day. He lived in Dawson Street and is buried in the church. He was a friend of John Wesley, and was admired by the Tractarians, including Pusey and Newman, as well as by Wilberforce.
His monument describes him as ‘a true and real, a spiritual and practical, an informed and enlightened, a primitive and catholic Christian.’
A mural tablet in the porch remembers the theologian Alexander Knox (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The poet Felicia Dorothea Hemans (1793-1835) is remembered in a memorial window in the chancel and in a mural tablet in the south aisle. A prolific hymn-writer and essayist, she was also one of the most popular poets of her day, and is best known for ‘Casabianca’ (1823), with the opening lines:
The boy stood on the burning deck
Whence all but he had fled;
The flame that lit the battle’s wreck
Shone round him o’er the dead.
Her grandparents were Irish, and from 1831 she lived in Dawson Street with her younger brother. She was buried in a vault in Saint Ann’s.
A mural tablet in the south aisle remembers Felicia Hemans and her poetry (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
A memorial and a window in the south gallery recall Archbishop Richard Whately (1787-1863). I enjoy the stories that say that while he was a fellow of Oriel College, Oxford, Whately tutored his students while hiking or climbing trees.
He lived in Saint Ann’s Parish, and the vicar, the Revd Dr Charles Dickinson (1792-1842), was his chaplain before becoming Bishop of Meath. Archbishop Whately attended many services in the church, but it was during his time that the canopied pew of the Archbishop of Dublin was removed from the church. He was buried in the ‘Royal Vault’ in Christ Church Cathedral.
Bishop Dickinson’s son, Canon Hercules Dickinson (1827-1905), was also Vicar of Saint Ann’s and the Dean of the Chapel Royal.
A mural tablet in north gallery commemorates Sir Hugh Lane (1875-1915), a rector’s son and part of the Irish literary revival circle that included Lady Gregory and WB Yeats. Part of his collection of modern art formed the nucleus of the Dublin Gallery of Modern Art; other parts hang in the National Gallery. He died on board he Lusitania when it was torpedoed in 1915.
The dead of two World Wars are named in two memorials: Saint Ann’s parish memorial on the reredos commemorating 32 men killed in World War I, and five killed in World War II; and Saint Mark’s parish memorial in the Lady Chapel in the south aisle, naming 24 men killed in 1914-1918.
The Butler Bread Shelves … a city charity that has continued for almost three centuries (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Facing me on Sunday mornings in the chancel, on the north side of the apse, filled with eight loaves of bread, were the Bread Shelves which since 1723 have held loaves of bread for the poor of the city under a bequest from Theophilus Butler, Lord Newton of Newtown Butler. The tradition and the charity have continued unbroken for almost 300 years later.
The monument blaming Laetitia Pilkington’s woes on ‘a cruel & merciless World’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Laetitia Pilkington (1712-1750), ‘adventuress,’ writer and wit, was once a great favourite of Dean Jonathan Swift. A doctor’s daughter, she married an impoverished, ne’er-do-well priest, the Revd Matthew Pilkington (1701-1774), Vicar of Donabate and Saint Doulagh’s. Matthew and Laetitia were divorced in 1738, and she was imprisoned for debt. Her chief claim to fame is her Memoirs (1748), published after her release from Marshalsea Prison.
Theobald Wolfe Tone (1763-1798), co-founder of the United Irishmen, married a parishioner of Saint Ann’s, Martha [Matilda] Witherington of 68 Grafton Street, in Saint Ann’s in 1785.
Thomas Barnardo (1845-1905), the founder of Barnardo’s Homes, attended the Sunday School in Saint Ann’s as a boy. In 1867, he founded the London East End Juvenile Mission with the cardinal principle, “No destitute child is ever refused admission.”
Bram Stoker (1847-1912), the author of Dracula (1897), lived around the corner from the church in 7 Saint Stephen’s Green, and married Florence Balcombe in Saint Ann’s in 1878.
Dr Douglas Hyde (1860-1949), the first President of Ireland, was born in Castlerea, Co Roscommon, the son of a Church of Ireland rector, the Revd Arthur Hyde. Throughout his life, Douglas Hyde was a regular parishioner of Saint Ann’s and was particularly fond of the liturgy and music in the church. Dr Hyde later joined WB Yeats, Lady Gregory, JM Synge and others in establishing an Irish national theatre. He was one of the seven co-founders of the Gaelic League and was its first president. He was Professor of Modern Irish in University College Dublin (1909-1932) and was unanimously elected the first President of Ireland in 1939.
An interesting monument on the south side of the gallery commemorates William Downes (1751-1826), Lord Downes and Lord Chief Justice of Ireland, and Judge William Tankerville Chamberlain (1751-1802), who were buried together in Saint Ann’s. Their monument says they ‘studied together, lived together, sat together … and now they … lie together in the same tomb.’
They ‘studied together, lived together, sat together … and now they … lie together in the same tomb’ … a monument on the south side of the gallery in Saint Ann’s (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
This morning’s tercentenary service was attended by many representatives of the charity sector, including the Samaritans. The Samaritans were set up in Ireland by a former Vicar of Saint Ann’s, Canon Billy Wynne.
When I worked as a journalist in The Irish Times over 20 years ago, I regularly attended the mid-day weekday celebrations of the Eucharist in Saint Ann’s, and later worked closely with a former Vicar of Saint Ann’s, Canon Adrian Empey, when he was the Principal of the Church of Ireland Theological College (now the Church of Ireland Theological Institute).
I hope to be back in Saint Ann’s parish next month for the launch of a new book in the Royal Irish Academy, which is next door to the church on Dawson Street.
Inside Saint Ann’s at Christmas time, seen from the gallery at the west end (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Patrick Comerford
Saint Ann’s Church, Dawson Street, has been at the heart of the city in Dublin for 300 years, and the church is celebrating its tercentenary today (Sunday, 29 October 2023). The celebrations began with Choral Matins at 11 am led by the Vicar, Canon Paul Arbuthnot.
The preacher was Archbishop Michael Jackson of Dublin and the service was sung by Saint Ann’s Choir, with prayers will be read by the children of the parish.
The Lord Mayor of Dublin, Daithi de Roiste, and members and representatives of Dublin City Council were present, as were the Dean of Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, the Very Revd William Morton, and former vicars and curates of Saint Ann’s. The Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Dublin was represented by the Vicar General, the Very Revd Gareth Byrne.
A rich variety of representatives of Dublin’s civic and cultural life attended, includingformer Taoiseach Bertie Ahern, representatives of the diplomatic service, members of the Oireachtas, representatives of the Rotunda Hospital, Holles Street Hospital, the Royal College of Surgeons Ireland, the National Gallery, the National Library, and the Royal Irish Academy – all within the bounds of the parish.
I provided Sunday cover in Saint Ann’s ten years ago, preaching and leading Sunday services. I have also spoken at the Saturday morning ‘men’s breakfast’ in the parish and for a number of years, while I was living in Dublin, I took part in the ‘Black Santa’ sit-out, a Christmas fundraiser for local charities that has been a tradition for successive Vicars of Saint Ann’s.
Saint Ann’s Church, Dawson Street … the boundaries of a new Dublin parish were set out in an Act of Parliament in 1707 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Saint Ann’s was created as a new parish by an Act of Parliament in 1707. At the time, the suburbs of Dublin were beginning to expand in a southerly direction. Sir Joshua Dawson bought an estate between Saint Stephen’s Green and College Park in 1705, and Dawson Street, which marked the eastern boundary of this estate, was laid out in 1701 as the main street of the new suburb.
Between them, Sir Joshua Dawson and Viscount Molesworth were responsible for creating what became some of the most fashionable streets in the city centre, including: Dawson Street (1709), Grafton Street (1713), Ann Street (1718), and Molesworth Street (1725). Dawson built his own new mansion on the east side of the street in 1710, and this later became the Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord Mayor of Dublin. He also provided a site for a new church for the new parish.
Dawson Street was completed in 1728, and as the new suburb expanded rapidly it became fashionable, with Dawson Street attracting members of the aristocracy, the gentry, the professions and bishops, including the Archbishops of Dublin.
The Act of Parliament in 1707 delineating the boundaries of the new parish was entitled ‘An Act for dividing the parishes of Saint Andrew’s. Saint Nicholas Without ye Wall and the United Parishes of Saint Catherine, Saint James and Saint John’s of Kilmainham.’ Its area was defined as ‘the ground between Grafton Street and Merryon Street, all situate or being in or near the suburbs of the City of Dublin.’
A quiet moment in Saint Ann’s on a Sunday morning (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The Georgian interior was designed by Isaac Wills, who also designed Saint Werburgh’s Church (1715). Wills worked closely with Thomas Burgh, who designed the library in Trinity College Dublin at the same time as Saint Ann’s was being built. In his plans for Saint Ann’s, Willis was influenced by the new churches built in the City of London by Sir Christopher Wren after the Great Fire of 1666.
The first Vicar of Saint Ann’s, the Revd Robert Howard, was instituted on 4 November 1717, and much of the church was built by January 1721.
Soon, private pews were being reserved in the church for distinguished residents such as the Duke of Leinster, the Archbishop of Dublin and the Lord Mayor. However, the two canopied pews on the north and south galleries flanking the chancel and reserved for Duke of Leinster and the Archbishop of Dublin were removed when the interior was reordered by John Welland in 1859-1860.
The original planned baroque west front never rose above the first floor. But it was replaced in 1868 by the imposing Lombardo-Romanesque façade designed by Sir Thomas Newenham Deane. His design was inspired by two churches in Rome – the baroque façade of San Giacomo in Augusta (degli Incurabili) in central Rome and Francesco Borromini’s tower at Sant’Agnese in Agone in the Piazza Navona.
The Resurrection … the La Touche window by Heaton, Butler & Bayne, in the north aisle (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The original 18th century clear glass windows were later replaced by an interesting collection of Victorian and early 20th century stained-glass. Some windows are more notable for those they commemorate than for their quality. Yet it is said there is more stained glass per square metre in Saint Ann’s than in any other church in Dublin.
Alexander Knox (1757-1831), who is commemorated in the east window and in a mural tablet in the porch, was a well-known theologian in his day. He lived in Dawson Street and is buried in the church. He was a friend of John Wesley, and was admired by the Tractarians, including Pusey and Newman, as well as by Wilberforce.
His monument describes him as ‘a true and real, a spiritual and practical, an informed and enlightened, a primitive and catholic Christian.’
A mural tablet in the porch remembers the theologian Alexander Knox (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The poet Felicia Dorothea Hemans (1793-1835) is remembered in a memorial window in the chancel and in a mural tablet in the south aisle. A prolific hymn-writer and essayist, she was also one of the most popular poets of her day, and is best known for ‘Casabianca’ (1823), with the opening lines:
The boy stood on the burning deck
Whence all but he had fled;
The flame that lit the battle’s wreck
Shone round him o’er the dead.
Her grandparents were Irish, and from 1831 she lived in Dawson Street with her younger brother. She was buried in a vault in Saint Ann’s.
A mural tablet in the south aisle remembers Felicia Hemans and her poetry (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
A memorial and a window in the south gallery recall Archbishop Richard Whately (1787-1863). I enjoy the stories that say that while he was a fellow of Oriel College, Oxford, Whately tutored his students while hiking or climbing trees.
He lived in Saint Ann’s Parish, and the vicar, the Revd Dr Charles Dickinson (1792-1842), was his chaplain before becoming Bishop of Meath. Archbishop Whately attended many services in the church, but it was during his time that the canopied pew of the Archbishop of Dublin was removed from the church. He was buried in the ‘Royal Vault’ in Christ Church Cathedral.
Bishop Dickinson’s son, Canon Hercules Dickinson (1827-1905), was also Vicar of Saint Ann’s and the Dean of the Chapel Royal.
A mural tablet in north gallery commemorates Sir Hugh Lane (1875-1915), a rector’s son and part of the Irish literary revival circle that included Lady Gregory and WB Yeats. Part of his collection of modern art formed the nucleus of the Dublin Gallery of Modern Art; other parts hang in the National Gallery. He died on board he Lusitania when it was torpedoed in 1915.
The dead of two World Wars are named in two memorials: Saint Ann’s parish memorial on the reredos commemorating 32 men killed in World War I, and five killed in World War II; and Saint Mark’s parish memorial in the Lady Chapel in the south aisle, naming 24 men killed in 1914-1918.
The Butler Bread Shelves … a city charity that has continued for almost three centuries (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Facing me on Sunday mornings in the chancel, on the north side of the apse, filled with eight loaves of bread, were the Bread Shelves which since 1723 have held loaves of bread for the poor of the city under a bequest from Theophilus Butler, Lord Newton of Newtown Butler. The tradition and the charity have continued unbroken for almost 300 years later.
The monument blaming Laetitia Pilkington’s woes on ‘a cruel & merciless World’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Laetitia Pilkington (1712-1750), ‘adventuress,’ writer and wit, was once a great favourite of Dean Jonathan Swift. A doctor’s daughter, she married an impoverished, ne’er-do-well priest, the Revd Matthew Pilkington (1701-1774), Vicar of Donabate and Saint Doulagh’s. Matthew and Laetitia were divorced in 1738, and she was imprisoned for debt. Her chief claim to fame is her Memoirs (1748), published after her release from Marshalsea Prison.
Theobald Wolfe Tone (1763-1798), co-founder of the United Irishmen, married a parishioner of Saint Ann’s, Martha [Matilda] Witherington of 68 Grafton Street, in Saint Ann’s in 1785.
Thomas Barnardo (1845-1905), the founder of Barnardo’s Homes, attended the Sunday School in Saint Ann’s as a boy. In 1867, he founded the London East End Juvenile Mission with the cardinal principle, “No destitute child is ever refused admission.”
Bram Stoker (1847-1912), the author of Dracula (1897), lived around the corner from the church in 7 Saint Stephen’s Green, and married Florence Balcombe in Saint Ann’s in 1878.
Dr Douglas Hyde (1860-1949), the first President of Ireland, was born in Castlerea, Co Roscommon, the son of a Church of Ireland rector, the Revd Arthur Hyde. Throughout his life, Douglas Hyde was a regular parishioner of Saint Ann’s and was particularly fond of the liturgy and music in the church. Dr Hyde later joined WB Yeats, Lady Gregory, JM Synge and others in establishing an Irish national theatre. He was one of the seven co-founders of the Gaelic League and was its first president. He was Professor of Modern Irish in University College Dublin (1909-1932) and was unanimously elected the first President of Ireland in 1939.
An interesting monument on the south side of the gallery commemorates William Downes (1751-1826), Lord Downes and Lord Chief Justice of Ireland, and Judge William Tankerville Chamberlain (1751-1802), who were buried together in Saint Ann’s. Their monument says they ‘studied together, lived together, sat together … and now they … lie together in the same tomb.’
They ‘studied together, lived together, sat together … and now they … lie together in the same tomb’ … a monument on the south side of the gallery in Saint Ann’s (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
This morning’s tercentenary service was attended by many representatives of the charity sector, including the Samaritans. The Samaritans were set up in Ireland by a former Vicar of Saint Ann’s, Canon Billy Wynne.
When I worked as a journalist in The Irish Times over 20 years ago, I regularly attended the mid-day weekday celebrations of the Eucharist in Saint Ann’s, and later worked closely with a former Vicar of Saint Ann’s, Canon Adrian Empey, when he was the Principal of the Church of Ireland Theological College (now the Church of Ireland Theological Institute).
I hope to be back in Saint Ann’s parish next month for the launch of a new book in the Royal Irish Academy, which is next door to the church on Dawson Street.
Inside Saint Ann’s at Christmas time, seen from the gallery at the west end (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
26 September 2023
Modern design at
Euston seeks to make
heraldry relevant to
art and tastes today
Art and design on the London Underground has always caught my eye and ear (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
Patrick Comerford
Euston Station was the first mainline and underground station in London that I got to know in my teens and early 20s. In a typical year, more than 40 million journeys start or end at this station.
Back in the late 1960s and the 1970s, this was the station I arrived at in London from Lichfield or after taking the ferry from Dublin. In my teens, I hitch-hiked most of the time, and train travel was a luxury until I was in my 20s. By then, Euston had become familiar and was convenient. These days, this is the station I arrive at on trains from Milton Keynes.
Euston Station opened in May 1907 as part of the City and South London Railway’s extension from Angel Station. The architect Sidney Smith designed the entrance at Euston station.
A few months later, the Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway opened its own Euston Station, with a surface structure designed by the architect Leslie Green. Despite having separate entrances, the two stations shared an underground ticket hall.
The station was closed 100 years ago, from 1922 to 1924, to allow tunnels to be enlarged in preparation for both branches of the Northern Line joining at Camden.
The station was rebuilt in the mid-1960s, when the surface mainline station was built. Most of the Underground work was designed to accommodate the Victoria line, which began calling at the station in 1968, just as I was about to get know the station.
Tom Eckersley’s designs and illustrations on the Victoria line platforms recall the Euston Arch (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
Art and design on the Underground have always caught my eye and ear, from the buskers to Tom Eckersley’s designs and illustrations on the Victoria line platforms in Euston of the Euston Arch that once stood as the gateway to the mainline station. The Doric Arch is also commemorated in the name of a pub between the station and Euston Square.
Going back to my teens, I have long had an interest in heraldry, and I remain curious about the abstract graphic patterns that I see regularly on the Northern Line (Charing Cross branch) platforms in Euston. They were created in the 1980s by the designers David Hamilton and Robin Cooper to represent the coat of arms of the Dukes of Grafton, whose family home is at Euston Hall in Sffolk. Grafton Regis, the village in the south Northamptonshire that gives its name to the title of the Dukes of Grafton, is about 13 km south of Northampton and 14 km north of Milton Keynes.
To many, heraldry must seem anachronistic, even feudal, if not irrelevant. Some of the conventions in heraldry are misogynist and crassly classist and need updating and modernisation. But the inspirational adaptations of the Euston or Grafton arms by Hamilton and Cooper in Euston Station show heraldry can still inform art and design.
David Hamilton and Robin Cooper created the abstract graphic patterns on the Northern Line platforms in Euston Station (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
The design in Euston Station is based on the coat of arms of Henry FitzRoy (1663-1690), 1st Earl of Euston, an illegitimate son of King Charles II and his mistress Barbara Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland.
The Duke of Grafton’s shield shows the Royal Stuart arms, with supporters, based on the royal lion and the Tudor greyhound. Across the shield is a baton sinister denoting illegitimate birth. The Earl of Euston was later given the title of Duke of Grafton and his coat-of-arms, seen on the platforms in Euston Station, is still used by his descendants.
The land on which the main line station is the situated was the property of the FitzRoy family. The family name and titles associated with it are to be found in the names of streets and squares in the surrounding area, including Euston Road, Euston Street, Euston Square, Cleveland Street, Fitzroy Square, Fitzroy Street and Grafton Street.
Henry FitzRoy, 1st Duke of Grafton, was only 27 when he died in Ireland on 9 October 1690 of a wound received at the storming of Cork while leading William's forces, less than three months after the Battle of the Boyne.
His son, Charles FitzRoy (1683-1757), 2nd Duke of Grafton, was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland from 1721 to 1724, and gave his name to Grafton Street and Duke Street in Dublin.
The V6 Grafton Street is a major local road in Milton Keynes key to the layout and urban form of the 'new city'. It starts beside Wolverton railway station in the north-west of Milton Keynes, between Wolverton and New Bradwell, and extends as far as Denbigh, where it provides access to the Stadium:mk and where it terminates in a roundabout with the H10 Bletcham Way, V4 Watling Street and Denbigh Road.
The Dukes of Grafton have given their names to Grafton Street in Dublin and in Milton Keynes (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
Patrick Comerford
Euston Station was the first mainline and underground station in London that I got to know in my teens and early 20s. In a typical year, more than 40 million journeys start or end at this station.
Back in the late 1960s and the 1970s, this was the station I arrived at in London from Lichfield or after taking the ferry from Dublin. In my teens, I hitch-hiked most of the time, and train travel was a luxury until I was in my 20s. By then, Euston had become familiar and was convenient. These days, this is the station I arrive at on trains from Milton Keynes.
Euston Station opened in May 1907 as part of the City and South London Railway’s extension from Angel Station. The architect Sidney Smith designed the entrance at Euston station.
A few months later, the Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway opened its own Euston Station, with a surface structure designed by the architect Leslie Green. Despite having separate entrances, the two stations shared an underground ticket hall.
The station was closed 100 years ago, from 1922 to 1924, to allow tunnels to be enlarged in preparation for both branches of the Northern Line joining at Camden.
The station was rebuilt in the mid-1960s, when the surface mainline station was built. Most of the Underground work was designed to accommodate the Victoria line, which began calling at the station in 1968, just as I was about to get know the station.
Tom Eckersley’s designs and illustrations on the Victoria line platforms recall the Euston Arch (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
Art and design on the Underground have always caught my eye and ear, from the buskers to Tom Eckersley’s designs and illustrations on the Victoria line platforms in Euston of the Euston Arch that once stood as the gateway to the mainline station. The Doric Arch is also commemorated in the name of a pub between the station and Euston Square.
Going back to my teens, I have long had an interest in heraldry, and I remain curious about the abstract graphic patterns that I see regularly on the Northern Line (Charing Cross branch) platforms in Euston. They were created in the 1980s by the designers David Hamilton and Robin Cooper to represent the coat of arms of the Dukes of Grafton, whose family home is at Euston Hall in Sffolk. Grafton Regis, the village in the south Northamptonshire that gives its name to the title of the Dukes of Grafton, is about 13 km south of Northampton and 14 km north of Milton Keynes.
To many, heraldry must seem anachronistic, even feudal, if not irrelevant. Some of the conventions in heraldry are misogynist and crassly classist and need updating and modernisation. But the inspirational adaptations of the Euston or Grafton arms by Hamilton and Cooper in Euston Station show heraldry can still inform art and design.
David Hamilton and Robin Cooper created the abstract graphic patterns on the Northern Line platforms in Euston Station (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
The design in Euston Station is based on the coat of arms of Henry FitzRoy (1663-1690), 1st Earl of Euston, an illegitimate son of King Charles II and his mistress Barbara Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland.
The Duke of Grafton’s shield shows the Royal Stuart arms, with supporters, based on the royal lion and the Tudor greyhound. Across the shield is a baton sinister denoting illegitimate birth. The Earl of Euston was later given the title of Duke of Grafton and his coat-of-arms, seen on the platforms in Euston Station, is still used by his descendants.
The land on which the main line station is the situated was the property of the FitzRoy family. The family name and titles associated with it are to be found in the names of streets and squares in the surrounding area, including Euston Road, Euston Street, Euston Square, Cleveland Street, Fitzroy Square, Fitzroy Street and Grafton Street.
Henry FitzRoy, 1st Duke of Grafton, was only 27 when he died in Ireland on 9 October 1690 of a wound received at the storming of Cork while leading William's forces, less than three months after the Battle of the Boyne.
His son, Charles FitzRoy (1683-1757), 2nd Duke of Grafton, was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland from 1721 to 1724, and gave his name to Grafton Street and Duke Street in Dublin.
The V6 Grafton Street is a major local road in Milton Keynes key to the layout and urban form of the 'new city'. It starts beside Wolverton railway station in the north-west of Milton Keynes, between Wolverton and New Bradwell, and extends as far as Denbigh, where it provides access to the Stadium:mk and where it terminates in a roundabout with the H10 Bletcham Way, V4 Watling Street and Denbigh Road.
The Dukes of Grafton have given their names to Grafton Street in Dublin and in Milton Keynes (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)
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