Showing posts with label Kazantzakis. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kazantzakis. Show all posts

17 June 2026

The Greeks have a word (or two)
for it: 62, Ελευθερία ή θάνατος,
‘Freedom or Death’,
an irreversible binomial

The nine blue and white stripes of the Greek flag represent the nine syllables of the rallying cry Ελευθερία ή θάνατος (‘Eleftheria i Thanatos’), ‘Freedom or Death’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Patrick Comerford

While I was wnandering aoround Oxford yesterday (16 June 2026), by the boathouses, the rivers and the islands in the river, I was musing on Bloomsday and the wandering of Ulysses. But I also recall a holiday on an Ionian island in Greece about 20-25 years ago, when I also visited Ithaki, the island home of Odysseus. On that same holiday, I met an Irish couple who introduced themselves as Joyce and James from Dublin.

They never, ever, introduced themselves in the reverse order, as in ‘I’m James, … Joyce.’

But inevitably, for many of the people staying in that same small apartment block, this became known as their ‘James Joyce holiday’. The pairing was irreversible.

Another holidaymaker in the same apartment block found out, as he was packing to go home, that his suitcase had ripped. Rather than buying a new case, he found a large, pre-used cardboard box, packed all his belongings inside and wrapped it up in bubble wrap, with strong brown masking tape.

At the airport, as he was about to place the box on the scanning machine, a policeman asked him to take it off, and open it.

‘I can’t,’ he pleaded.

‘Take it off’.

Lesson 1, Do not argue with a Greek police officer, any police officer, at an airport.

The lesson was being ignored, but two other tourists – eager to defuse the situation and more eager not to miss their flight – without any airs and graces or fuss and bother removed the box, hoping to restore peace and calm and wanting to minimalise any confrontation with law and order.

‘What is it in the box?’

‘Just me Bits and Bobs’, said the elderly Dub casually, unaware of the chaos or mess that could unfold around him – what Greeks call τα πάνω κάτω (ta páno káto), ‘the ups-downs’.

‘Bobs and Bits?’ the policeman asked.

We all began to smile, he noticed our spontaneous response, tensions were defused, and soon the box was on its way back through the scanner.

Pardon the pun, but it was an open and shut case. Perhaps all he had in his bag and baggage was odds and sods, six of one and half a dozen of the other. Not in there, I am sure from his holiday attire, were a shirt and tie.

Despite the smiles, we had all minded our Ps and Qs. No-one had to bow and scrape, no-one lost an arm and a leg, and we all went through security, happy after a holiday on a Greek island that for two weeks had been our Land of Milk and Honey.

When we got home, I am sure, nobody unpacked their flop flips, put their holidays nacks and nicks in appropriate crannies and nooks, or had conversations in the days that followed with their dad and mum about the days of the Tans and Blacks.

Who speaks of ‘breakfast and bed’ rather than ‘bed and breakfast’ for a B&B? … Park Villa Guest House in Kilkenny (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

The pairing of words known in English as an irreversible binomial, or a frozen binomial, also exists in Greek. This is a pair of words linked by a conjunction such as και (‘and’) and that always occur in a fixed, non-reversible order. Έτσι κι έτσι (Etsi ki etsi), which means ‘so-so’, is a classic example of this paired rhythmic pattern in Greek. The phrase literally means ‘thus and thus’ and is used to describe average health, mood, or a mediocre experience:

Τι κάνεις; (ti káneis), How are you?

Έτσι κι έτσι (Etsi ki etsi), So-so.

Other common examples of the use of an irreversible binomial in Greek include:

Πέτσι και κόκαλο (pétsi ke kókalo, skin and bones), meaning emaciated or extremely thin.

Απ' έξω και ανακατωτά (ap' éxso ke anakatotá, inside out and upside down, completely mixed up), referring to knowing something perfectly.

Ήθη και έθιμα (íthi ke éthima, morals and customs), a standard frozen phrase encompassing cultural traditions.

Στο κάτω κάτω της γραφής (sto káto káto tis grafís, after all, bottom line), literally ‘at the bottom bottom of the writing’.

Τα πάνω κάτω (ta páno káto, upside down, chaos), literally ‘the ups-downs’, used to describe a mess.

Άνω κάτω (ano kato, ‘up down’) or ‘topsy-turvy’.

Μπρος πίσω (bros piso, ‘front back’) or back and forth.

Έθιμα και έθιμα (ethima kai ethima), ‘customs and habits’.

Μισός κι άλλος μισός (misos ki allos misos) ‘one and the other’.

Ένας κι ένας (enas ki enas), one by one.

Common Greek irreversible binomials feature entrenched phrases, historical idioms, and common collocations. In Greek linguistics, irreversible binomials or idiomatic, fixed-order word pairs, similar to the order of ‘bread and butter’ in English, are heavily shaped by iconicity or the chronological or logical sequence of events, and by end-weight, with longer or heavier words appearing toward the end of the phrase.

Verbs expressing sequential actions must follow their natural temporal order (as in going in before going out). In Greek, this appears as μπαινοβγαίνω (bainovgeno, ‘go in and out’) or ανεβοκατεβαίνω (anevokateveno, ‘go up and down’).

When nouns or adverbs of similar meaning are combined, the element with the more sonorous or longer vowel, or a greater number of syllables, is usually placed at the end to provide a rhythmic cadence.

The most famous example of an irreversible binomial in Greek is Ελευθερία ή θάνατος (Eleftheria i Thanatos), ‘Freedom or Death’. This pair of words is ordered by established convention, and they are fixed in sequence. Swapping their order, as in saying ‘Death or Freedom’, sounds jarring to any Greek speaker.

As a linguistic convention, the pairings in an irreversible binomial are anchored by cultural, psychological, and semantic rules. When faced with an ultimatum, we instinctively priorities the positive or desired outcome first, followed by the negative alternative. Positioning ‘Freedom’ before ‘Death’ frames the statement as a pursuit of life’s highest ideal, with death accepted only as a last resort.

The phrase Ελευθερία ή θάνατος (Eleftheria i Thanatos) has become the Greek national motto. It originated in the 1820s during the Greek War of Independence against the Ottoman Empire. The nine blue and white stripes of the Greek flag represent the nine syllables of this rallying cry.

The phrase gives its name to Freedom or Death, also known as Captain Michalis, a 1953 novel by the author Nikos Kazantzakis from Iraklion in Crete that is became a key work of modern Greek literature.

The binary choice between liberty and life without freedom is mirrored in other historic rallying cries, such as the Patrick Henry’s ‘Give me liberty, or give me death!’ The late Seumas Phelan, when he was a sub-editor at The Irish Times, would cry out during lulls and dull moments on the subs desk, ‘Give me copy, or give me death’.

In English, the fixed order of irreversible binomials or frozen binomials means that changing the order sounds jarring, even if the meaning remains clear. This fixed order is largely shaped by linguistic patterns rather than arbitrary rules.

The natural rhythm or ablaut means English speakers naturally prefer pairs with specific syllable stresses, or where a shorter, high-frequency word precedes a longer one, as with short and sweet or sick and tired.

Iconic sequencing means phrases often follow a chronological or logical order of events in the real world, such as cause and effect, or trial and error.

But cultural conventions and historical and semantic traditions also cement phrases into our long-term memory, processing them as single holistic units rather than individual words. In law and official documents, there are many irreversible binomials consisting of near synonyms, such as the oft-expressed terms and conditions and cease and desist.

There are hundreds of these expressions in English and they generally fall into a few key categories, such as food and objects. Think of how we link Fish and Chips, Salt and Pepper, Knife and Fork, or Bread and Butter. In everyday conversation and idioms, we refer to Give and Take, Back and Forth, Safe and Sound, Bed and Breakfast, but never to Roll and Rock or Blues and Rhythm, and we ask for explanations and excuses to be Short and Sweet.

The term ‘irreversible binomial’ was introduced in 1954 by the Ukrainian-born etymologist and philologist Yakov Malkiel (1914-1998), although aspects of the phenomenon had been discussed since at least 1903 under different names such as ‘terminological imbroglio’ and the now politically-incorrect ‘Siamese twins’.

Many irreversible binomials are catchy due to alliteration, rhyming, or ablaut reduplication, and have become clichés or catchphrases. The mix and match of idioms includes phrases such as rock and roll, the birds and the bees, and they have survived the wear and tear of generations among generation of native English speakers, even one word in a pairing has become obsolete as in spick and span. Spick is a fossil word that never appears outside the phrase spick and span. Who uses words such as such as vim or abet except when using sayings such as vim and vigour or aid and abet.

No-one is ever caught between a hard place and a rock, high water and hell never come, and I know no-one who has had a tuck and nip, even among the famous and rich. Although, if I wanted to be little more Greek in my turn of phrase, or a Joycean reference, then instead of ‘a rock and a hard place’ I might chose to be caught between the equally dangerous and threatening Scylla and Charybdis.

Ball and Chain? … ‘Sitting on History’ by Bill Woodrow in Milton Keynes (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Previous words in this series:

1, Neologism, Νεολογισμός.

2, Welcoming the stranger, Φιλοξενία.

3, Bread, Ψωμί.

4, Wine, Οίνος and Κρασί.

5, Yogurt, Γιαούρτι.

6, Orthodoxy, Ορθοδοξία.

7, Sea, Θᾰ́λᾰσσᾰ.

8,Theology, Θεολογία.

9, Icon, Εἰκών.

10, Philosophy, Φιλοσοφία.

11, Chaos, Χάος.

12, Liturgy, Λειτουργία.

13, Greeks, Ἕλληνες or Ρωμαίοι.

14, Mañana, Αύριο.

15, Europe, Εὐρώπη.

16, Architecture, Αρχιτεκτονική.

17, The missing words.

18, Theatre, θέατρον, and Drama, Δρᾶμα.

19, Pharmacy, Φᾰρμᾰκείᾱ.

20, Rhapsody, Ραψῳδός.

21, Holocaust, Ολοκαύτωμα.

22, Hygiene, Υγιεινή.

23, Laconic, Λακωνικός.

24, Telephone, Τηλέφωνο.

25, Asthma, Ασθμα.

26, Synagogue, Συναγωγή.

27, Diaspora, Διασπορά.

28, School, Σχολείο.

29, Muse, Μούσα.

30, Monastery, Μοναστήρι.

31, Olympian, Ολύμπιος.

32, Hypocrite, Υποκριτής.

33, Genocide, Γενοκτονία.

34, Cinema, Κινημα.

35, autopsy and biopsy

36, Exodus, ἔξοδος

37, Bishop, ἐπίσκοπος

38, Socratic, Σωκρατικὸς

39, Odyssey, Ὀδύσσεια

40, Practice, πρᾶξις

41, Idiotic, Ιδιωτικός

42, Pentecost, Πεντηκοστή

43, Apostrophe, ἀποστροφή

44, catastrophe, καταστροφή

45, democracy, δημοκρατία

46, ‘Αρχή, beginning, Τέλος, end

47, ‘Αποκάλυψις, Apocalypse

48, ‘Απόκρυφα, Apocrypha

49, Ἠλεκτρον (Elektron), electric

50, Metamorphosis, Μεταμόρφωσις

51, Bimah, βῆμα

52, ἰχθύς (ichthýs) and ψάρι (psari), fish.

53, Τὰ Βιβλία (Ta Biblia), The Bible

54, Φῐλοξενῐ́ᾱ (Philoxenia), true hospitality

55, εκκλησία (ekklesia), the Church

56, ναός (naos) and ἱερός (ieros), a church

57, Χριστούγεννα (Christougenna), Christmas

58, ἐπιφάνεια (epipháneia), θεοφάνεια, (theopháneia), Epiphany and Theophany

59, Ζέφυρος (Zéphuros), the West Wind

60, Αύριο (Avrio), Tomorrow

61, καλημέρα (κaliméra), ‘Good Morning’, and καλαμάρι, κalamári, ‘squid’



62, Ελευθερία ή θάνατος, ‘Freedom or Death’

Series to be continued

’Freedom or Death’ is one of the great literary works by Nikos Kazantzakis (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

29 November 2025

Daily prayer in the Kingdom Season:
29, Saturday 29 November 2025

‘The cross is the only path to resurrection. There is no other path’ (Nikos Kazantzakis) … the grave of Kazantzakis on the Martinengo Bastion in Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Patrick Comerford

We come to the end of this year’s Kingdom Season in the Church Calendar today, and Advent begins tomorrow is the First Sunday of Advent (Sunday 30 November 2025). In the Church of England, today is set aside as a ‘Day of Intercession and Thanksgiving for the Missionary Work of the Church’.

Today promises to be a funday in Stony Stratford, with street music, dancing, craft sales and the Lantern Parade, all leading up to switching on the Christmas lights in the town at a traditional gathering at the Christmas Tree in the Market Square.

Before the day begins, before breakfast, I am taking some quiet time early this morning to give thanks, to reflect, to pray and to read in these ways:

1, today’s Gospel reading;

2, a short reflection;

3, a prayer from the USPG prayer diary;

4, the Collects and Post-Communion prayer of the day.

‘Praying that you may have the strength … to stand before the Son of Man’ (Luke 21: 34) … a damaged Byzantine fresco in the Museum of Christian Art in Iraklion, Crete (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Luke 21: 34-36 (NRSVA):

34 [Jesus said:] ‘Be on guard so that your hearts are not weighed down with dissipation and drunkenness and the worries of this life, and that day does not catch you unexpectedly, 35 like a trap. For it will come upon all who live on the face of the whole earth. 36 Be alert at all times, praying that you may have the strength to escape all these things that will take place, and to stand before the Son of Man.’

‘Be on guard so that your hearts are not weighed down with dissipation and drunkenness’ … flowers in a window at Peskesi restaurant in Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Today’s Reflections:

The scene for the Gospel reading at the Eucharist today (Luke 21: 34-36) has been set in the verses that immediately precede this reading. Christ is sitting in the Temple precincts, where he speaks about the Temple, the Nation, and the looming future.

Today’s Gospel reading continues in this apocalyptic theme, urging us to be ‘alert at all times’, praying that we may have the strength to ‘to stand before the Son of Man’ – an appropriate admonition as we enter the season of Advent.

This morning, I find myself asking both ‘what is the divine mission of Christ?’ and, in our response, what does it mean to ‘stand before the Son of Man’?

In The Last Temptation of Christ (1955), the Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis (1883-1957) presents a tragic Christ wrestling all his life with the conflicting claims of his divine mission and duty and his human desire to live a normal life, to love and be loved, and to have a family. In this book, Christ summarises his purpose and mission: ‘I said only one word, brought only one message: “Love. Love – nothing else”.’

Writing about this book, Kazantzakis said: ‘I am certain that every free man who reads this book, so filled as it is with love, will more than ever before, love Christ.’

When the Church of Greece condemned Kazantzakis in 1955 and anathematised him, his response was prompt and clear: ‘You gave me a curse, Holy fathers, I give you a blessing: may your conscience be as clear as mine and may you be as moral and religious as I.’ («Μου δώσατε μια κατάρα, Άγιοι πατέρες, σας δίνω κι εγώ μια ευχή: Σας εύχομαι να ‘ναι η συνείδηση σας τόσο καθαρή, όσο είναι η δική μου και να ‘στε τόσο ηθικοί και θρήσκοι όσο είμαι εγώ.»).

I have had lunch in the past with friends in Peskesi, a restored historical mansion in Iraklion. It was once the home of Captain Polyxigkis, a Cretan freedom fighter from the 1860s who features in Freedom and Death (Ο Καπετάν Μιχάλης, Captain Michalis), the 1953 semi-historical novel by Kazantzakis.

The name of Peskesi (Πεσκέσι, ‘Gift’) is inspired by his semi-autobiographical Report to Greco (Αναφορά στον Γκρέκο), where Kazantzakis addresses his Cretan ‘grandfather,’ Domenikos Theotokopoulos, El Greco:

«Μὰ εἶχες γίνει φλόγα. Ποῦ νὰ σὲ βρῶ, πῶς νὰ σὲ δῶ, τί πεσκέσι νὰ σοῦ φέρω νὰ θυμηθεῖς τὴν Κρήτη καὶ ν’ ἀνέβεις ἀπὸ τὰ μνήματα; Μονάχα ἡ φλόγα μπορεῖ νὰ βρεῖ μπροστά σου ἔλεος· ἄχ, νὰ μποροῦσα νὰ γίνω φλόγα νὰ σμίξω μαζί σου». ‘But you had turned into a flame. Where shall I find you, how shall I see you, what gift shall I bring you to make you remember Crete, to make you raise from the dead? Only the flame can be at your mercy; oh, if only I could become a flame to meet you.’

In his introduction to Report to Greco, Kazantzakis says ‘My entire soul is a cry, and all my work the commentary on that cry.’

He goes on to say: ‘Every man worthy of being called a son of man bears his cross and mounts his Golgotha. Many, indeed most, reach the first or second step, collapse pantingly in the middle of the journey, and do not attain the summit of Golgotha, in other words the summit of their duty: to be crucified, resurrected, and to save their souls. Afraid of crucifixion, they grow fainthearted; they do not know that the cross is the only path to resurrection. There is no other path.’

Later in that book, he writes: ‘Whoever climbed the Lord’s mountain had to possess clean hands and an innocent heart; otherwise the Summit would kill him. Today the doorway is deserted. Soiled hands and sinful hearts are able to pass by without fear, for the Summit kills no longer.’

And he paraphrases the Prophet Elijah: ‘Tomorrow, go forth and stand before the Lord. A great and strong wind will blow over you and rend the mountains and break in pieces the rocks, but the Lord will not be in the wind. And after the wind and earthquake, but the Lord will not be in the earthquake. And after the earthquake a fire, but the Lord will not be in the fire. And after the fire a gentle, cooling breeze. That is where the Lord will be. This is how the spirit comes. After the gale, the earthquake, and fire: a gentle, cooling breeze. This is how it will come in our own day as well. We are passing through the period of earthquake, the fire is approaching, and eventually (when? after how many generations?) the gentle, cool breeze will blow.’ (see I Kings 19: 11-13).

Doménikos Theotokópoulos or ‘El Greco’ … a marble bust by Nikos Sofialakis in the centre of Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Today’s Prayers (Saturday 29 November 2025):

Saint Andrew is celebrated in the Church Calendar on 30 November. However, because tomorrow is the First Sunday in Advent, Saint Andrew’s Day has been transferred to Monday in the Church of England.

The Thronal Feast of the Apostle Andrew is being celebrated in the Ecumenical Patriarchate this weekend, and in my prayers this morning I am keeping in mind Pope Leo XIV’s visit to the Phanar this weekend. Patriarch Bartholomew will welcome the Pope this afternoon, and Patriarch Theodoros II of Alexandria will also be present. These celebrations and this visit are part of the continuing events marking the 1700th anniversary of the Nicene Creed and the Council of Nicaea in the year 325.

The theme this week (23 to 29 November) in Pray with the World Church, the prayer diary of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel), has been ‘Gender Justice’ (pp 58-59). This theme was introduced last Sunday with Reflections by Rachael Anderson, former Senior Communications and Engagement Manager, USPG.

The USPG Prayer Diary today invites us to pray:

We look forward to the age of peace, when violence is banished, both women and men can love and be loved, and the work and wealth of our world is justly shared.

The Collect:

Eternal Father,
whose Son Jesus Christ ascended to the throne of heaven
that he might rule over all things as Lord and King:
keep the Church in the unity of the Spirit
and in the bond of peace,
and bring the whole created order to worship at his feet;
who is alive and reigns with you,
in the unity of the Holy Spirit,
one God, now and for ever.

Post Communion Prayer:

Stir up, O Lord,
the wills of your faithful people;
that they, plenteously bringing forth the fruit of good works,
may by you be plenteously rewarded;
through Jesus Christ our Lord.

Additional Collect:

God the Father,
help us to hear the call of Christ the King
and to follow in his service,
whose kingdom has no end;
for he reigns with you and the Holy Spirit,
one God, one glory.

Collect on the Eve of Advent I:

Almighty God,
give us grace to cast away the works of darkness
and to put on the armour of light,
now in the time of this mortal life,
in which your Son Jesus Christ came to us in great humility;
that on the last day,
when he shall come again in his glorious majesty
to judge the living and the dead,
we may rise to the life immortal;
through him who is alive and reigns with you,
in the unity of the Holy Spirit,
one God, now and for ever.

Yesterday’s Reflections

Continued Tomorrow

‘Be on guard so that your hearts are not weighed down with dissipation and drunkenness …’ (Luke 21: 34) … a sign behind the bar in a pub in Foynes, Co Limerick (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Scripture quotations are from the New Revised Standard Version Bible: Anglicised Edition copyright © 1989, 1995 National Council of the Churches of Christ in the United States of America. Used by permission. All rights reserved worldwide. http://nrsvbibles.org

29 July 2025

Greece pays tribute
to the composer
Mikis Theodorakis on
his 100th birthday

‘My whole life is close to you’ … today celebrated the 100th birthday of the Greek composer Mikis Theodorakis

Patrick Comerford

Today marks the 100th anniversary of the birth of the Greek composer Mikis Theodorakis (1925-2021), one of the most influential composers in Greece, who was born 100 years ago on 29 July 1925.

A series of concerts, around the globe and throughout Greece this year are marking this centenary, with centenary celebrations paying tribute to Theodorakis, who would have turned 100 today. His work – from the Mauthausen Cycle to film scores to interpretations of Greek folk music and songs – has profoundly shaped and defined Greek music today.

Mikis Theodorakis, composer, conductor, and politician, was born on the island of Chios on 29 July 1925 and died in Athens almost four years ago on 2 September 2021.

As one of the most prominent figures in Greek music, Theodorakis is more relevant than ever and continues to resonate around the world. His music expresses his political values and fused his idealism and his commitment to freedom.

His scores for films such as Zorba the Greek and Electra, his interpretations of classical plays and drama, or his settings for the works of contemporary Greek poets such as Odysseas Elytis, Giorgos Seferis and Yiannis Ritsos, show how Theodorakis catches Greek cultural imaginations, combining Greek traditional music and classical composition, high art and popular culture.

In January 1968, 31 years after Seferis completed ‘Epiphany, 1937’, the composer Mikis Theodorakis conceived of it as a choral piece, Επιφάνια-Αβέρωφ (Epiphania-Averof), naming the cantata after the prison in central in Athens. He had been detained there since August 1967, after the colonels right-wing junta had seized power on 21 April 1967, and was denied the Christmas amnesty extended to many other political prisoners in December 1967.

Gail Holst’s book, Theodorakis: Myth and Politics in Modern Greek Music (Amsterdam, 1980), shows that for Theodorakis setting the entire ‘Epiphany, 1937’ to music was a tour de force, his own epiphanic moment in the junta’s jail cells.

Theodorakis worked on the poem as a cantata to be performed with the help of his fellow prisoners. Each evening, while other prisoners listened to the radio in a communal hall from 7:30 to 8:30, Theodorakis used the hour to train his choir of 10 prisoners.

The poem’s first-person-singular refrain Κράτησα τη ζωή μου (Kratêsa tê zôê mou) is translated into English by Keeley and Sherrard as ‘I’ve kept a rein on my life’. It could also be translated as ‘I’ve kept a hold on my life’. In this refrain, Theodorakis heard a multiplicity of voices, the universality of their utterance further enhanced by the composer’s preference for a mixed chorus of both men and women.

This recurring phrase throughout the main part of the poem struck Theodorakis’s sensitivity and curiosity. Seferis’s refrain creates a sense of monotony and repetition and at the same time the sense of one carrying something heavy.

Gail Holst’s book, Theodorakis: Myth and Politics in Modern Greek Music (1980), shows that for Theodorakis setting the entire ‘Epiphany, 1937’ to music was a tour de force, his own epiphanic moment in the junta’s jail cells.



The key figure in these concerts and events is Maria Farantouri, who worked closely with Theodorakis for many years and is the most important voice in his oeuvre. She is known for her powerful, soulful and sensitive voice, and she continues to captivate audiences with her interpretations of his work.

Her version of Το γελαστό παιδί (The Laughing Boy) celebrates the uprising in the Athens Polytechnic on 17 November 1973 that led to the downfall of the colonels within a year. The song, composed by Mikis Theodorakis, was first included on the soundtrack of the Costas-Garvas movie Z (1969), and was quickly linked with resistance to the junta.

For Greeks, it is a song about the death of so many young people killed resisting the regime. When the regime was toppled in 1974, Mikis Theodorakis and many singers organised a concert to celebrate the return of democracy to Greece, and Maria Farantouri sang one of the most touching songs of the time.

There was a palpable response when she intentionally changed the original reference to August to the month of November to honour the students killed in November 1973. The original Greek lyrics are by the poet Vassilis Rotas, but they are based on earlier poem by the Irish playwright Brendan Behan.

Some years ago, my friends Paddy Sammon, a former Irish diplomat once based in Athens, and Damian Mac Con Uladh, an Irish journalist from Ballinasloe now based in Corinth, have researched the Irish background to this great Greek classic of resistance to oppression. The original laughing boy in Brendan Behan’s poem is Michael Collins. Theodorakis adapted the Greek translation, and adapted it in the context of Grigoris Lambrakis, the pacifist activist killed by far-right extremists in Greece in the years before the colonels seized power.

Behan adapted the poem in his play The Hostage (1958). The play first came to the attention of Theodorakis while he was living in Paris, and he was inspired to compose a cycle of 16 songs in 1962 with Greek lyrics by Vasilis Rotas (1889-1977).

Rotas’s translation of The Hostage was staged in Athens in 1962 at a time when the Greek civil war was still a taboo topic and left-wing activity was under close police surveillance. The play became a way for people to identify with their struggle against a repressive regime.

Maria Farantouri went into exile after the coup in 1967, and sang this song at solidarity concerts across Europe. ‘It became a hymn not only for the Irish liberation movement, but also for every liberation movement in the world, and Greek democracy,’ she told an RTÉ documentary.

When the junta sent in tanks against protesting students at the Athens Polytechnic on 17 November 1973, killing at least 24 people over a number of days, Maria Farantouri added a couple of stanzas to the song, and changed the date from August to November, deliberately linking the song to that event.



At many of this year’s anniversary concerts, Maria Farantouri is accompanied by Tasis Christoyannis, a distinguished baritone singer, and Alkinoos Ioannidis, a versatile singer, composer and poet from Cyprus, whose style is a mix of folk, classical and rock and who brings a fresh, contemporary dimension to Theodorakis’ repertoire.

Other accompanying musicians and singers include Vassilis Lekkas, Myron Michaelidis, Manolis Mitsias, Yota Negka and Thanassis Voutsas. Their voices highlight the many dimensions of the musical legacy of Theodorakis, although he once said of his work: ‘I like to believe that the bulk of my work – from the simplest song to the most intricate symphonic composition – belongs to a single musical unity.’

The sound of bouzoukis, lutes, and the delicate santouri blend seamlessly with clarinet, violin, and intricately woven orchestral arrangements, creating a musical fusion of tradition and expressive artistry, full of passion and poetry.

‘The Ballad of Mauthausen’, the Holocaust cantata written by Iakovos Kambanellis and Mikis Theodorakis … Mauthausen was the last of the concentration camps to be liberated, on 3 May 1945

During these concerts, Farantouri sings from all periods of Theodorakis’s oeuvre. But the highlight on many evenings is The Ballad of Mauthausen.

Mauthausen was the last of the concentration camps to be liberated at the end of the Holocaust and World War II 80 years ago, on 3 May 1945. The Ballad of Mauthausen (Η Μπαλάντα του Μαουτχάουζεν) is a cantata written by the Greek playwright Iakovos Kambanellis (1922-2011) and Mikis Theodorakis 60 years ago in 1965. It is based on the experiences in Mauthausen of Kambanellis, who wrote four poems that Mikis Theodorakis set to music.

The book and the music were born in an incendiary political and cultural milieu in Greece. Two days after its first performance, all music by Theodorakis was banned from Greek state radio. Within two years, the military had seized power and the colonels silenced Theodorakis and many other voices for seven long years.

For the first time ever, the complete music of Zorba the Greek – the work that in many ways has become the musical soul of Greece – has been performed live, interpreted with the original instruments used in the 1964 recording.

The Oscar-winning film, based on a major work by Nikos Kazantzakis, first published in Greek in 1946 as Life and Times of Alexis Zorbas. Theodorakis wrote the score for the 1964 film that became, perhaps, the best-loved Greek film. It was one of my earliest introductions to Greek culture, music and literature.

Other features on programmes include selections from Odyssey (2006), Theodorakis’ final song cycle, set to the poetry of Kostas Kartelias, include pieces from Ta Lyrika (1976), with poetry by Tasos Livaditis, and Beatrice on Zero Street (1994), with poetry by Dionysis Karatzas – works that belong to the composer’s later lyrical period. The evening also include some of his most loved and well-known songs, drawn from earlier song cycles and set to the verses of great poets and lyricists.

The two concerts in the Megaron Moussikis in Thessaloniki (1 and 2 January) included Theodorakis’ ballet suite Greek Carnival. The two concerts in the Megaron Moussikis, Athens (16 and 17 February) included excepts from Pablo Neruda’s Canto General in its original orchestration for a 15-member ensemble and two choirs.

Two concerts in Xanthi (11 and 12 April) also marked the centenary of the birth of Manos Hadjidakis, when Maria Farantouri and Nikos Kypourgos, two of Manos Hadzidakis’ most important collaborators, discussed his music and his influence on modern Greek music.

A concert in the Pyrgos Vassilissis (Queen’s Tower) in Ilion (30 May) was dedicated to the 100 years since the founding of Ilion.

Other concert venues in Greece have included Chania (13 June) and Iraklion (14 June) in Crete; the Kallimarmaron Stadium in Athens (25 June); Thessaloniki (30 June and 1 July), where Maria Farantouri and Manolis Mitsias sang poems by the Andalusian poet Federico Garcia Lorca, set to music by Theodorakis and other composers; and Thessaly (19 July).

Concerts venues in Greece in the coming weeks include the island of Lefkada (8 August), the Ancient Theatre in Dion (11 August), the Little Theatre in ancient Epidaurus (16 August), Siviris in Chalkidiki (24 August), and Serres (7 September).

International venues so far this year have included a concert in Grand Pera in Istanbul (19 March), when Maria Farantouri was accompanied by the pianist Achilleas Gouastor in a programme that included poems by Kiki Demoula, set to music by Sakis Papademetriou, as well as songs by Theodorakis. There was a concert in Helsinki too on 27 March.

A concert in Bochum, Germany (9 May) included The Ballad of Mauthausen, with a reading and talk that also marked the 80th anniversary of the end of World War II. International concerts later this year are taking place in Düsseldorf (11 October), Rotterdam (13 October) and Lucerne (31 October).

In his music, Theodorakis expressed his political values and fused his idealism and his commitment to freedom. I was in Crete at the time of his funeral, the island was immersed in three days of official mourning and I could see how people were deeply moved emotionally as they watched that funeral on television screens everywhere. In the week after his death, Theodorakis was described by a leading Greek newspaper, Kathimerini, as ‘Greece’s last enduring myth.’



25 May 2025

Four more churches in
Iraklion that have survived
earthquakes and Venetian
and Turkish rule in Crete

Four churches in Iraklion (from top left): Aghios Andreas, beneath the Martinengo Bastion; Saint Mark’s Basilica facing onto Lions Square; Aghios Dimitrios on the corner of Marineli Street and Platia Aghiou Dimitriou; and Aghios Dimitrios in the Karambas area (Photographs: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Patrick Comerford

During a day in Iraklion, the main city in Crete, last month, I visited and revisited a number of cathedrals and churches in the heart of the city, including Saint Minas Cathedral, the older, much smaller Church of Saint Minas that sits in its shadow; Saint Catharine of Sinai, which stands in the same square and is now the impressive Museum of Christian Art; the Byzantine Church of Saint Matthew of the Sinaites, which also has connections with Saint Catherine’s Monastery on Mount Sinai; Saint Peter’s Church, a former Dominican foundation now reopened as Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and two neighbouring churches in the busy, throbbing heart of the city, Saint Titus and Saint Mark.

Saint Mark and Saint Titus sit beside each other, and both have had cathedral status at different times. Saint Titus dates back to Byzantine times, and is probably the church in Iraklion that most tourists visit because of its location, because it is open daily as a church, and because it holds the most celebrated relic in Crete.

Saint Mark’s, on the other hand, no longer functions as a church. But, as its name suggests, it dates back, to Venetian times.

Saint Mark’s Basilica was first built in the centre of Iraklion in 1239 after Venice conquered Crete (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

The Basilica of Saint Mark (Βασιλική του Αγίου Μάρκου), or Aghios Markos (Άγιος Μάρκος), is in the centre of Iraklion, facing onto Eleftheriou Venizelou Square, popularly known as Lions Square (Πλατεία Λεόντων) because of the lions that decorate the Morisini Fountain.

Saint Mark’s is one of the few Roman Catholic churches still standing in Crete. It was built in the centre of Candia (today’s Iraklion) in 1239, after the Venetian conquest of Crete following the Fourth Crusade, and it primarily served the island’s Venetian governors and rulers.

The first church was built in Gothic style at the palace of the Duke of Candia, and it was used by the duke and senior Venetians in the city. The foundation stone was laid by the Latin bishop of Ierapetra. However, the church belonged not to the Latin bishop but to the duke himself, who appointed a prefect or chaplain in charge of the church. Ducal decrees were pronounced at the entrance to the basilica, and members of the duke’s family were buried in the churchyard.

The first church was severely damaged in an earthquake in 1303, but it was later restored. A stronger earthquake hit the island in 1508 and severely damaged Saint Mark’s. The duke ordered wooden beams from Sfakia when the church was being rebuilt in 1514. The north wall was about to collapse by 1552, and was supported with four struts, two of which survive to this day.

The rebuilding was completed in 1557, but Saint Mark’s was damaged again by earthquakes in 1564 and 1595. The church was renovated in 1599 by the builder Micheles Raptopoulos and the carpenter Giannis Kladas, but the north wall was in danger of collapsing once more in 1625.

During the Cretan War (1645-1669), the bell tower was used as an watchtower, with its bells being rung when a bombardment began. After Candia fell to the Ottomans in 1668, the Venetians took away the bells and other relics, and Saint Mark’s was surrendered to Ahmet Pasha, who was the Ottoman defterdar or minister of finance from 1661 to 1675.

Ahmet Pasha converted Saint Mark’s into a mosque known as the Defterdar Ahmet Pasha Mosque. He demolished the bell tower and replaced it with a minaret on the south corner, and its remains can be seen to this day. They also destroyed the murals and frescoes in the church and discarded relics and burials to build a mihrab and a minbar. The mosque had three yards to the north, the south and the east, a well and a cistern. The complex included three shops, a cellar and a two-storey building.

Ahmet Pasha acquired other buildings in Iraklion, including the ducal palace, to provide rental income to maintain the mosque. The duke’s palace has long since been razed, but the 17th century Loggia, built in 1628 by Francisco Morosini, remains one of the most impressive buildings in the city.

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The 17th century Venetian Loggia near Saint Mark’s is one of the most impressive buildings in Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Saint Mark’s is a three-aisled basilica with an elevated central nave and a portico at the west entrance. The interior dimensions are 32 x 15.6 metres. The elongated proportions of the aisles emphasise the elongated dimensions of the church.

The ornate doorway of the Venetian Palazzo d’Ittar, now the Museum of Ancient Technology, was moved to the church and has been integrated into the inner side of the north entrance. A three-light window inserted in the south wall inside comes from an unknown building.

Two rows of columns each have five columns of green granite with six Gothic arches. The fluted capitals dated from the 14th century, while some of the arches from the Greek and Roman archaeological sites at Iraklion and Knossos.

The portico at the west façade is 6.15 metres long and the colonnade has columns and five arches. This loggia was used in the past by grain merchants. The flat roof was removed during the Ottoman period and replaced by a pitched roof was added. Only three of the original columns survive, with their capitals dating from around the 14th century.

The base of the old bell tower still stands at on the south-west corner of the basilica. It is made of square hewn stones, 4.2 metres tall, and with the remnants of the demolished minaret at the top.

The arches in the portico at the west façade of Saint Mark’s Basilica in Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Saint Mark’s remained a mosque for almost 2½ centuries, until it was closed by the Greek state in 1915. After the Asia Minor catastrophe and the forced exchanges of people between Greece and Turkey, the Muslim community left Crete in 1924. The minaret was finally torn down in 1924.

The former mosque came into the hands of the National Bank of Greece and then the Municipality of Iraklion, and for a time it was used as a cinema. At one time in the early 1950s, the city council suggested demolishing the church and replacing it with a municipal theatre or a post office. This plan was abandoned for financial reasons, and a decision was made in 1954 to restore the church.

The Society of Cretan History Studies started to restore the basilica in 1956. During the restoration, the middle aisle was elevated to return to its original place, with the addition of 12 windows on each side, and five windows on the north wall. The portico was rebuilt, the church floor was covered with new slabs, the inner colonnade was repaired and the building was reinforced with concrete.

Since the restoration was completed in 1960, the church has been used as a municipal art gallery, the Museum of Visual Arts, with exhibits of works of art. These have included the Domenikos Theotokopoulos (El Greco) exhibition (1990), the Cretan School exhibition (1998) and the Fayum mummy portraits exhibition (1998). Several leading Greek artists have exhibited in the gallery.

The Church of Saint Dimitrios on the corner of Marineli Street and Platia Aghiou Dimitriou, behind 25 August street (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Further down 25 August street, heading towards the harbour, the side streets hide some more interesting churches that seldom attract the attention of tourists. Lordou Vironos street, off 25 August street, is named after the Philhellene poet Lord Byron and leads into Marineli Street and Platia Aghiou Dimitriou with a small park and the picturesque Church of Saint Dimitrios.

Aghios Dimitrios looks like a new church and it was fully restored in 1964. However, it datesback centuries, and was named as San Demetrio and as San Dimitrio, Chiesa Greca in Venetian documents. It is first referred to in May 1554, and may have been named Saint Dimitios (Άγιος Δημήτριος), after the patron saint of carpenters, when carpenters were engaged in the construction of the city’s Venetians walls.

When Iraklion fell to the Ottomans, the icons and other sacred treasures in the church were moved to churches in Corfu and Zakynthos.

The Ottomans did not rebuild on the site because of its small size, and the three-aisle church was deserted. The site became known for a small fresh-water fountain. In the early 1900s, local people uncovered a fresco and parts of the early church.

The remaining part of the church collapsed completely during the German bombing of Iraklion in 1941. The reconstruction of Aghios Dimitrios began in the 1950s and was completed in 1964, and the church is a now a preserved building. The only surviving part of the early church is a part of frescoes inside the sanctuary. The two side aisles are devoted to Saint Eleftherios and Saint Anargyroi.

The large Church of Aghios Dimitrios on the corner of Ikarou street and Steliou Kazantzidi street in the Karambas area, near bus station and the port of Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

The parish of Aghios Dimitrios at one time acquired Saint Peter’s, the former Dominican church and monastery near the harbour, renamed it Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and planned to use it as a church. Instead, it has been transformed into a museum and exhibition area, although contains to be used for liturgical purposes on special days.

Saint Dimitrios of Thessaloniki (Άγιος Δημήτριος, feast day 26 October), is one of the most popular saints and martyrs in the Greek Orthodox Church. The Church of Aghios Dimitrios is most famous church in Thessaloniki and was first built as a small oratory shortly after the year 313 on the site of the saint’s martyrdom 10 years earlier.

The present five-aisled basilica in Thessaloniki is the largest church in Greece. Because of the saints popularity and extensive patronage, there are churches named Saint Dimitrios throughout Greece from all periods of Greek history.

No-one arriving into Iraklion by public transport can fail to notice, for example, the large Church of Aghios Dimitrios on the corner of Ikarou and street Steliou Kazantzidi street in the Karambas area near the port.

The tiny Church of Aghios Andreas, surrounded on three sides and overwhelmed by the modern Cultural and Conference Centre of Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

The tiny Church of Aghios Andreas on Nikolaos Plastiras street is surrounded on three sides and overwhelmed by the modern Cultural and Conference Centre of Iraklion (Πολιτιστικό και Συνεδριακό Κέντρο Ηρακλείου, ΠΣΚΗ). The centre for the performing arts opened in 2019 after long debates and planning that had gone on for over four decades.

The complex is on a 5,670 sq metre site, with a total floor area of 28,487 sq metres. The auditorium seats 750 people and there are several smaller auditoriums, stages and performance areas. The Heraklion Cultural Centre was first proposed in 1975. Today, with its modern architectural design and facilities, it is an important centre of artistic and cultural excellence in Crete and for Greece.

The Church of Saint Andreas squats beneath the centre on three sides, on the other side it is overlooked by the city’s Venetian walls and the Martinengo Bastion and the grave of Crete’s most celebrated writer Nikos Kazantzakis beyond is Ergotelis soccer stadium, a reminder of the culture, continuity, identity and diversity that coalesced to make modern Crete.

The bell of Saint Andreas, beneath the Martinengo Bastion and the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

12 May 2025

Every Greek city seems to
need at least two big
football clubs: look at
Iraklion’s OFI and Ergotelis

The Nikos Kazantzakis Stadium, also known as Ergotelis Stadium or Martinengo Stadium, is the traditional home of Ergotelis in Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Patrick Comerford

I was saying some days ago (6 May 2025) how so many things in Greece seem two have two words for them in Greek, from two words for wine, οίνος (oinos) and κρασί; and two Greek words for bread, ἄρτος (artos) and ψωμί (psomi); to two Greek words for beer, μπύρα (bíra) and ζύθος (zythos) and two words for fish, ἰχθύς (ichthýs) and ψάρι (psari).

It seems every large town and city in Greece also needs to have two decent, rival football teams, if not three. In Iraklion are Ergotelis and OFI, and their generations-old rivalry, dating back to the 1920s, has been marked out by the cultural history and political upheavals in Greek life over the past century.

The two main football clubs in Athens, Olympiacos and Panathinaikos, are often referred to as ‘the Eternal Enemies’ because of their fierce rivalry. These two, along with AEK Athens, form the ‘Big Three’ (Οι Τρεις Μεγάλοι, Oi Treis Megaloi) in Greek football and are usually the main contenders for the title. Together they share a total of 80 out of 88 Greek Football Championships and they usually end up sharing the top three positions.

The two main football clubs in Thessaloniki are PAOK (Pan-Thessaloniki Athletic Club) and Aris Thessaloniki FC. Fixtures between these two rivals are known as the Thessaloniki Derby. PAOK’s success has also added them to ‘Big Three’, making it the ‘Big Four’ in Greece.

In Crete, the two Super League clubs based in Iraklion, Ergotelis and OFI, share a rivalry that can be traced back to social and political roots. Their first-ever game was a friendly match in 1929 that ended after 35 minutes. Ergotelis were ahead by 1-0 when the game was abandoned after violence broke out between the players.

OFI, officially ΠΑΕ Όμιλος Φιλάθλων Ηρακλείου 1925 (Iraklion Sportsmen’s Club 1925 FC), is part of the OFI multi-sports club. OFI is celebrating its centenary this year. It was founded in the winter of 1925 when a group of athletes who trained together in Iraklion formed a new club, Omilos Filathlon Irakleiou (OFI), or the Iraklion Sportsmen’s Club.

The team competes in the Super League Greece, the top division in the Greek football league, with home games at the Theodoros Vardinogiannis Stadium in Iraklion. OFI is the most successful club on Crete and the only one from the island to have played in European competitions. It is the team outside Athens and Thessaloniki with the most continuous appearances in the Greek first division. It has secured one Greek Cup (1986-1987) and one Balkans Cup (1989), and has competed seven times in UEFA competitions, making it the premier team outside Athens and Thessaloniki.

OFI’s home at the Theodoros Vardinogiannis Stadium (Γήπεδο Θεόδωρος Βαρδινογιάννης) was built in 1951 and is popularly known as Yedi Kule. The nickname Yedi Kule refers to the Heptapyrgion, a Byzantine and Ottoman fortress in Thessaloniki known as Yedi Kule in Turkish, which features in many Greek rebetika songs.

The stadium was built on the site of three cemeteries – Jewish, Orthodox and Armenian. When it was being built, workers discovered two large holes that had been gun emplacements left after the German occupation of Crete during World War II. The stadium has had several renovations, most notably in 2004, and 2018.

OFI ‘ultra’ fans, the ‘Snakes’, sit at Gate 4 while the visiting fans usually sit at Gate 1. Section 1 is what many call ‘the old man’s seats’ and is mostly filled with older people and fathers and sons who want to watch the game in peace. They are as far away as possible from the ultras (Sections 4-5) but relatively close to the away fans if they join (Section 6, north of 1).

The rivalry between OFI and Ergotelis intensified under the Greek military junta of 1967-1974, but this has been transformed from bitter rivalry to good-natured banter between neighbours in more recent decades.

Ergotelis of Knossos, the Cretan runner, inspired the name and logo of Ergotelis Football Club in Iraklion, known for its progressive ideals

Ergotelis Football Club ( ΠΑΕ Εργοτέλης) plays in the FCA Iraklion A1, the fourth tier of the Greek football league system, and home games are played at the Pankritio Stadium. But the club’s traditional home ground is the Nikos Kazantzakis Stadium, also known as Ergotelis Stadium or Martinengo Stadium. It is below the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis on the Martinengo Bastion on the Venetian fortifications surrounding the city.

Ergotelis was formed in 1929 and is part of Gymnastics Club Ergotelis (ΓΣ Εργοτέλης), named after the ancient Cretan Olympic runner. Ergotelis was formed mainly by refugees from Asia Minor, and the first recorded game was a 4-0 win for Ergotelis in a friendly against local side Leon (Λέων) at Chandax (Χάνδαξ) stadium on 4 August 1929.

Ergotelis has had nine appearances in the Greek Super League, and its best finish was in seventh place in 2013-2014 season. It has also won the Beta Ethniki, the second tier, once, in 2006. Its traditional colours are yellow and black.

From the beginning, Ergotelis was known for its progressive ideals. It was one of the first clubs in Greece to allow women into its sporting divisions and onto the board of directors. Those values and traditions are embedded in the club’s name and logo: Ergotelis of Knossos won twice the Olympic dolichos or running race at the 77th and 79th Olympics in 472 BCE and 464 BCE.

Although Ergotelis had won all races he ran in Crete, the local governor excluded him from the local team in the Olympics for political reasons and his liberal and radical ideology. Forced to leave Crete, Ergotelis moved to the Greek colony of Himera in Sicily. As a citizen of Himera, he won at the Olympics as well as at the Pythian, Isthmian and Nemean games.

Pindar honoured Ergotelis with the ‘12th Olympionikus’. Ergotelis’ beliefs and personality, his values and his origins at Knossos near Iraklion inspired the club’s founders in their choice of name in 1929.

The club was forced to shut down temporarily in 1935 because of the political activism of leading figures in the club. Ergotelis regrouped in 1937 with a strong team that was first in the 1940 Iraklion Football Clubs Association Championship but that was never completed due to World War II.

The Greek colonels junta in 1967-1974 issued an edict demanding every regional Greek city be represented in professional divisions by one single football team. At that time, both OFI and Ergotelis were playing in the Second National division, and at the end of the 1966-1967 season they finished in third and tenth place respectively. Both clubs had secured their place in the second division for the next season, but under the colonels’ diktat, Ergotelis was relegated to amateur status.

Ergotelis claimed the relegation in 1967 was retaliation for allowing the songwriter and composer Mikis Theodorakis, later a key voice against the regime, to perform a concert at the Martinengo Stadium on 6 August 1966. The colonels branded Ergotelis an unpatriotic organisation, and club officials were accused of ‘deviating from the purposes for which they were elected, turning the club into an instrument servicing political, and sometimes unpatriotic objectives’.

The Martinengo Bastion, with the grave of Nikos Kazentzakis, overlooks the Martinengo Stadium, the venue of the controversial concert of Mikis Theodorakis in 1966 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

At the end of the 1966-1967 Beta Ethniki season, the club was forcibly relegated to amateur status through an edict that allowed each regional city have only one team in the Second national Division.

To add insult to injury, any local clubs remaining in the second division were given the right to demand the transfer of any number of players from the relegated clubs, bypassing official transfer regulations. OFI remained in the national competitions and signed up five of the best Ergotelis players at the time – Konstantinos Theodorakis, Dimitrios Papadopoulos, Manolis Stavroulakis, Konstantinos Zouraris and Georgios Skandalakis.

A court decision in favour of Ergotelis was overruled by the Hellenic Football Federation, which was controlled by the junta and approved OFI’s contracts with the players and threatened to evict Ergotelis officials from the Martinengo Stadium. Club directors were either demoted or prosecuted and Ergotelis was effectively dismantled in 1967.

It was the beginning of a prolonged period where Ergotelis languished in the lower leagues, while OFI prospered. Ergotelis made a brief comeback to the Second Division after winning the 1969-1970 local Iraklion Championship. But the club was now too weak to be competitive, and was relegated at the end of the 1970-1971 season.

After the junta collapsed in 1974, several attempts were made to bring Ergotelis back into competitive football. But these efforts were met with failure, and Ergotelis struggled between the lower regional and national competitions for over 30 years.

Happily, in recent years, old bitter rivalries between OFI and Ergotelis eased off in the early 2000s when Ergotelis returned to top-flight football. OFI fans have celebrated Ergotelis promotion and attended home games during the club’s first season in the Super League. Relations improved further when Ergotelis loaned the legendary scorer Patrick Ogunsoto to a financially struggling OFI in the Beta Ethniki for no fee, to help OFI’s bid to return to the Super League.

When Ergotelis was promoted in 2004, the Martinengo Stadium was not fit for use in Alpha Ethniki matches. Ergotelis relocated its home ground to the newly-built Pankritio Stadium (Παγκρήτιο Στάδιο, Pancretan Stadium), and OFI’s Theodoros Vardinogiannis Stadium was designated the club’s alternate home ground.

The 2014-1015 season was marred by continuous managerial changes, an abundance of unfortunate and costly player transfers, multiple matches postponements mid-season and competitors withdrawing from the league due to financial reasons. Ergotelis finally finished in 16th place in the regular Super League and was placed 15th only because Kerkyra (Corfu) was penalised, placed 16th and relegated for the illegal transfer of shares.

Financial crises, one after another, came to a climax on 19 January 2016, when club officials finally decided to withdraw the team from the competition. After 14 consecutive years playing in professional divisions, Ergotelis was once again relegated to amateur status and went into liquidation.

Despite finishing in ninth place during the 2021–22 Super League Greece 2, Ergotelis were discharged from the professional championship, resulting in a two-level demotion to the local top-level amateur championship, FCA Heraklion A1.

Ergotelis has a small but fiercely loyal fanbase, organised into two supporters’ groups, the Daltons Club and the Alternatives Fans of Ergotelis. They both usually occupy Gate 19 at the Pankritio Stadium.

The club has never forgotten its social and political traditions. A concert at the Pankritio Stadium on 19 September 2011 honoured Mikis Theodorakis, commemorating the 45th anniversary of the controversial concert at the Martinengo Stadium in 1966 that challenged the rise of political authoritarianism in Greece.

Ergotelis Football Club (ΠΑΕ Εργοτέλης) now plays its home fixtures at the Pankritio Stadium in Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

04 May 2025

The Byzantine Church of
Saint Matthew of the Sinaites
in Iraklion and a unique
collection of icons in Crete

The Byzantine Church of Saint Matthew of the Sinaites in the old city in Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Patrick Comerford

On a sunny afternoon, as I was making my way from the Cathedral of Saint Minas in the heart of Iraklion to the Martinengo Bastion above the city to see the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis, I stopped to visit the mediaeval Byzantine Church of Saint Matthew of the Sinaites in the maze of streets in the old city.

This church with an unusual name is a monastic foundation linked to Saint Catharine’s Monastery on Mount Sinai, the oldest continuously inhabited Christian monastery, and it holds one of the most important collections of icons in Crete today, dating from the 16th to the 18th century.

The church is also intimately linked to events at the end of the 19th century that led to the end of Ottoman rule and the incorporation of Crete into modern Greece.

The main (south) aisle in the church … the first church on the site dated back to the second Byzantine period (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

I had last visited this church in September 2013. The church, on Taxiarchou Markopoulou street, is near the bustling city centre of Iraklion and Saint Minas Cathedral. But it is a quiet residential area, with traditional white-washed houses, cobbled streets, and cosy tavernas and cafés.

The two-aisled church is set in a shaded courtyard about 500 metres south of the cathedral of Saint Minas. The present building dates back to just after the earthquake of 1508.

The earliest references in the lists of churches in Candia say the first church on the site dated back to the second Byzantine period (961 to1204 CE), a significant period of cultural and economic revival for the island after its reconquest from Arab rule. Saint Matthew’s was regarded as ‘Great and Unique’ and was inextricably connected with life in the city.

The north aisle in the church … the church became a dependency of the Monastery of Saint Catherine on Mount Sinai in 1669 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

The Byzantine church of Saint Matthew Sinaitón or Saint Matthew of the Sinaites (Ναός Αγίου Ματθαίου Σιναϊτών) was rebuilt after the earthquake of 1508. The new church of Agios Matthaios (Saint Matthew) was probably built, as a family chapel in the early 17th century on the site of the older Byzantine church that had been destroyed in the earthquake. The founding inscription says it was built in 1600.

After the Ottomans captured Crete and Iraklion in 1669, the Church of Saint Catherine was turned into a mosque. Through the intervention of the Sultan’s interpreter, Nikosios Panagiotakis, Saint Matthew’s Church was then given by way of compensation as a metochion or small monastic establishment to the Monastery of Saint Catherine on Mount Sinai and its monks.

The seat of the Archbishop of Crete, and the icons, paintings and pulpits that had once adorned Saint Catherine were transferred to the church, and it has been known ever since as Saint Matthew of the Sinaites.

The carved pulpit in the south aisle is highly decorated with icons (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

However, it cannot be said with certainty whether the school of iconography at Saint Catherine’s operated on the church grounds during this period, although it was located there later, and was moved to the small Church of Agios Minas around 1750. The school continued to function through the work of Georgios Kastrophylakas and loannis Kastrophylakas, father and son, and Ioannis Kornaros, who had attended the school.

The church is known for its striking architecture and serene ambiance. It has an elegant façade, and the interior is equally captivating, with its frescoes and icons. This is a two-aisled, vaulted church with a transverse narthex. The complex also includes two neoclassical buildings and a newer building.

A relief marble slab above the north entrance of the church depicts Saint Matthew the Apostle. The church was expanded at the end of the 17th century, and the south aisle was added and dedicated to Saint Paraskevi. The flat-roofed narthex was rebuilt in the 18th century, and a chapel was added at the north-east end and dedicated to Saint Charalambos.

The church holds a rare collection of icons with important works of the Cretan School of Iconography (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Today the church holds a rare collection of icons with important works of the Cretan School of Iconography in the Venetian Era.

The icons include the Crucifixion by Georgios Kastrophylakas (1752); Saint Catherine and Saint Symeon the God-Receiver by Jeremiah Palladas; the Crucifixion (1772) and Saint Titus and Scenes of the Lives of the 10 Martyrs of Crete by Ioannis Kornaros (1773); the Crucifixion, attributed to Palaiokappa; and two unsigned icons by Michael Damaskinos, Saint Symeon Theodochos and Saint John the Baptist (16th century).

Other notable icons in the church include: Saint Phanourios by John, priest of Kolyva (1688); Saint Paraskevi (17th century); the Prophet Elias with scenes of his life, by Georgios Kydoniates (1752); the Lament (1753); Saint Charalampos and the martyrdom of the saint, by Ioannis Kornaros, (1773); and the Virgin Mary or Panaghia by Victor (1780).

The iconostasis in the main south aisle of the church (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

For many decades, Saint Matthew and Saint Minas long remained the two principal Orthodox churches in Iraklion, and many influential members of the Christian community in the city were buried in the churchyard.

Many of the people slaughtered by the Turks in the massacre in Iraklion on 25 August 1898 are also buried in the churchyard. They include Lysimachos Kalokairinos (1840-1898), who had been the British Vice Consul in Iraklion from 1859 and a British subject since 1871.

Kalokairinos was killed when his home was burnt down during the violence in 1898, and most of his archaeological collection and that of his brother, Minos Kalokairinos (1843-1907), dragoman at the consulate, were destroyed. Minos Kalokairinos was an amateur archaeologist known for the first excavations at the Minoan palace of Knossos, and his excavations were continued later by Arthur Evans.

Many of the people slaughtered in the massacre in Iraklion on 25 August 1898 are buried in the churchyard (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

During the violence, known the ‘Candia Massacre’, it is estimated 500-800 Christians were massacred in Iraklion, 14 British military personnel were murdered, and Lysimachos Kalokairinos and his family were burnt alive in their home. A significant part of Candia was burned down and the massacre, which continued for four hours, ended only after British warships began bombarding the city.

The massacre on 6 September 1898 (Old Style 25 August) accelerated the end of Ottoman rule: the last Ottoman soldier left Crete two months later, on 28 November 1898, ending the 253-year Ottoman rule on the island. Crete became an autonomous state in 1899 and was incorporated into the modern Greek state in 1913.

The Church of Saint Matthew of the Sinaites remains a ‘Great and Unique’ church. It is an important part of the spiritual heritage of Crete and it is cherished as a landmark that has played a key role in the religious, political and cultural history of Iraklion.

The Church of Saint Matthew of the Sinaites is a ‘Great and Unique’ church in Iraklion (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)