15 October 2020

Croom is a colourful
place to visit, even on
a rainy autumn afternoon

Croom, Co Limerick, is colourful, even on a rainy autumn afternoon (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

Patrick Comerford

On a rainy afternoon earlier this week, two of us visited Croom (Cromadh, ‘Bend in the River’) in Co Limerick. Croom is 8 km south-east of Adare, on the River Maigue, north of the point where the Camoge River joins the River Maigue after forming a loop to the south and west of Monasteranenagh Abbey.

Croom was of considerable importance from an early date. Its history dates back to pre-Christian or early Christian times, and three ringforts have been located north of the Croom-Rathkeale road, a mile from Croom.

Two single-banked ringforts were demolished in 1972-1973 when new houses were being built. When the sites were excavated, Elizabeth Shee-Twohig found human and animal remains, an iron knife, a bronze penannular ring and a bone comb side-plate. A preservation order was placed on a third ringfort nearby. In all, over 65 ring forts have been identified in the area.

Colourful pubs and shopfronts near the river in Croom (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

Although the River Maigue is now tidal only as far as Adare, it was once tidal as far as Croom, making it a transit route for the Viking ships in the ninth and tenth centuries. Traffic and commerce along the Maigue River involving Danish Vikings and the Ui Donnabhains provide an insight into the alliance between these two groups in the late tenth century.

The earliest mention of Cromadh in the historical annals is in 1151, when ‘a great predatory excursion was made by Ruaidhri, son of Toirdhealbhach Ua Conchobhair (Rory O’Connor), into Thomond; and he carried away many cows, and burned Cromadh.’

However, Croom did not develop as a town until the castle was built. The town was walled in 1310, and over the intervening years both town and castle often shared the same story. Croom was an important crossing on the River Maigue, giving access to Connello and West Limerick.

Croom was the principal base in Munster of the FitzGeralds of Kildare (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

For a time, the FitzGeralds of Kildare had a Munster base in Croom. They owned extensive lands in the Maigue valley, including lands at Croom and Adare, while their rival kinsmen, the FitzGeralds of Desmond, owned much of the rest of Co Limerick.

Although Maynooth later became the principal seat of the FitzGeralds of Kildare, they retained their Maigueside lands and castles by the River Maigue adopted Crom Abu as their motto.

The Countess of Kildare was living at Croom Castle in the winter of 1601 when the northern chief, Red Hugh O’Donnell, arrived in Croom with his men after their overnight march across the frozen Slieve Felim to link up with the Spaniards who had landed at Kinsale.

The civil survey in 1654 after the Cromwellian wars found that in Croom ‘there is a broken bridge on the river of Maigue near the castle.’

The grave of Sean O Tuama in the Church of Ireland churchyard in Croom (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

Ten years later, Daibhi O Bruadair, one of the last the great Gaelic poets in Co Limerick, wrote, ‘now Croom itself is a misery, scattered little town, which is situated on the banks of the Maigue, and the beer of that village has no strength in it, except, indeed, that I hear that good minister of the place has a fine old brew which is delightful to drink.’ The rector of Croom at the time was Canon John Lillys.

Although Daibhi O Bruadair did not speak favourably of Croom, apart from its rector, some Gaelic poets who lived there in the 18th century warmly sang its praises. Indeed, Croom owes much of its later fame to the school or court of Gaelic poetry, Scoil Eigse or Cuirt Eigse that flourished there in the 18th century.

The poets who frequented the school were known as Fili na Maighe, the Poets of Maigue. They included Sean O Tuama (1709-1775), owner of the pub where the poets met and who is buried in the Church of Ireland churchyard.

Other poets in Croom included Aindrias Mac Craith, a hedge-school master from Kilmallock, who was known as An Mangaire Sugach or ‘The Merry Pedlar.’ The Maigue poets wrote love songs, elegies, drinking songs, patriotic songs. Slan le Maigh (‘Farewell to the Maigue’) by Aindrias Mac Craith is the best-known of their poems.

The mills at Croom date from the 18th century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

The Lyne or Lyons family, who were living in Croom by the early 18th century, are associated with both Croom House and Croom Castle. There is a ruined mill along the banks of the River Maigue and a newer mill built by Henry Lyons in 1788 and a working mill until 1927.

A workhouse was built in Croom in the early 1840s to house the destitute. It became a general hospital serving Co Limerick in 1924, and in 1956 it became a Regional Orthopaedic Hospital.

Croom railway station opened in 1862. It closed to passenger traffic in 1934, to goods traffic in 1963, and finally closed in 1967. The town has been by-passed by the N20 Croom Bypass since 2001.

The Maigue Poets celebrated in Croom (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

A new Civic Centre opened in Croom in 2014 and includes a restaurant, library, public computers and function hall.

Today, the well-preserved ruins of Croom Castle lie hidden from view behind high walls.

It was a rainy afternoon, and with the Covid-19 restrictions there was nowhere to get a coffee. But Croom was still a colourful pace to visit, and two of us went off in search of Croom Castle, the two parish churches, and the Round Tower and church ruins at Dysert Oenghusa.

Colourful cottages near the churches and the castle in Croom (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

The parish church in Bruree
was built in the 1920s in the
Hiberno-Romanesque style

The Church of the Immaculate Conception in Bruree was built in 1922-1925 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

Patrick Comerford

Bruree in Co Limerick was one of the seats for the kings of Munster until the end of the 12th century, according to local lore, and Bruree was the place where Irish bards met twice a year until 1746.

Over the years, Bruree was a seat of the Dalcassians, the Uí Fidgeinte, the O’Briens and the Anglo-Normans. The de Lacys became the principal landowners ca 1290. However, Bruree is best-known as the childhood home of the former Taoiseach and President Eamon de Valera.

I had already visited the former Church of Ireland parish church in Bruree, Saint Munchin’s Church, Ballynoe, built in 1812 and closed in 1969. On my back from Kilmallock to Askeaton at the weekend, I stopped again in Bruree, this time to visit the Roman Catholic parish church.

Inside The Church of the Immaculate Conception in Bruree, facing the liturgical east (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

The Church of the Immaculate Conception was built in 1922-1925, when Father John Breen was the parish priest, and was officially opened on 26 April 1925.

The foundation stone to the left of the main door of the church was laid by Bishop Denis Hallinan of Limerick on 8 December 1922. The inscription says Samuel Francis Hynes from Cork was the architect and Jeremiah J Coffey from Midleton, Co Cork, was the builder.

The church is built in the Hiberno-Romanesque style, with limestone from nearby Tankardstown, in Kilmallock.

Inside the Church of the Immaculate Conception in Bruree, facing the liturgical west (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

This church is oriented on a north-south axis, instead of the traditional east-west liturgical axis. It has a fine interior with stained-glass windows, a well-carved timber roof and marble colonnades. These features add architectural significance to the church and are a testimony the skilled craftsmanship used in its construction.

This is a gable-fronted church, with a seven-bay nave and six-bay side aisles, two transepts, and gable-fronted porches that have chamfered corners, and a distinctive, square-plan three-stage tower at the front, to the right of the main door, with a battered base, a large open bell chamber and a short spire.

The snecked limestone walls have a stringcourse and an inscribed plaque at the front.

There are four, round-headed lancet windows above the double-leaf, timber battened front doors, with a stained-glass oculus above them. There are stained glass oculi in the nave too.

The windows above the High Altar in Bruree (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

Inside, the church has a lofty, open timber scissors brace roof. Polished granite columns support the tall rounded arches, with the arcades separating the nave and aisles.

Mr and Mrs Carroll from Fort East erected the High Altar. Miss Mary Dunworth donated the altar rails, part of which remains.

The stained-glass window above the High Altar depicts the Virgin Mary, the Sacred Heart and Saint Joseph. Above these windows, an oculus or round stained-glass window depicts Saint Patrick and Saint Brigid.

To the right of the High Altar is a statue of Saint Joseph and the Christ Child and an altar to the Virgin Mary. To the left, the side chapel now serves as the Baptistry.

The foundation stone names the architect Samuel Francis Hynes (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

The church was built by the Cork architect Samuel Francis Hynes and the builder was Jeremiah J Coffey from Midleton, Co Cork.

Samuel Francis Hynes (1854-1931), who was a member of an old Cork family, was articled to William Atkins in Cork in 1869 and spent five years as his pupil. He travelled on Continental Europe before opening his independent practice in Cork in 1875.

The Irish Builder in 1877 published two of his designs: for the chapel of the Convent of Mercy in Bantry, Co Cork, and the de Vesci Memorial in Abbeyleix, Co Laois.

Hynes practised from a number of addresses in South Mall, Cork for over 40 years, working mainly on commissions from Catholic parishes and religious orders. He was elected a member of the RIAI in 1878 and a fellow in 1889, and was elected a follow of the RIBA in 1888.

His last works to be recorded in the Irish Builder date from 1921. The church in Bruree was one of his last works. He retired from practice in 1929 and died, unmarried, at the age of 77 on 28 June 1931.

The oculus above the High Altar depicts Saint Patrick and Saint Brigid (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)

This church is near the site of the earlier Roman Catholic parish church, Saint Munchin’s, beside John Moloney’s Bar. Saint Munchin’s, built in 1842, was later owned by Billy and Jim O’Connor of the Starlight Showband, who used it was a dancehall and for travelling theatre companies.

The old holy water font from this church is now in the Eamon de Valera Museum and Bruree Heritage Centre, and the former church is now owned by the HSE.

The tower has a large open bell chamber and a short spire (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2020)