17 April 2025

Listening to the poetry of
Elytis and the songs of
Theodorakis on the road
from Iraklion to Rethymnon

‘But where did you wander / All day long in the hard reverie of stone and sea?’ (Odysseas Elytis, Marina on the Rocks) … rocks and the sea at sunset behind the Fortezza in Rethymnon (Photograph: Patrick Comerford; click on images for full-screen viewing)

Patrick Comerford

The journey to Rethymnon from Iraklion last night, along north coast of the Crete, with its rocky coves, sandy beaches and cliffs, was almost like a home-coming, bringing with it hopes of seeing the sun setting in the west behind the Fortezzangs over the next few evenings. Although last night's journey was in total darkness, this is one of the most beautiful and scenic routes I know. It is a journey that has never ceased to captivate me since I first arrived in Crete early one morning almost 40 years ago in the mid-1980s.

As I was planning and arranging last night’s journey from Iraklion to Rethymnon, I found myself once again reading Marina on the Rocks, one of my favourite poems by Odysseas Elytis (1911-1996), who was born in Iraklion, and listening to a setting by Mikis Theodorakis, sung by one of Greece’s most loved singers, Maria Farantouri.

Both Elytis and Theodorakis have been major figures in Greek culture throughout the second half of the 20th century. The only other Greek poet to receive the Nobel Prize for Literature was George Seferis in 1967. Nikos Kazantzakis (1883-1957), who was also born in Crete, received Nobel nominations on nine separate occasions, but never received the prize.

Odysseus Elytis is one of the poets who revived Greek poetry in the last century. Several of his poems have been set to music and his collections have been translated into dozens of languages. These poems are written in rich language, filled with images from history and myths. His lines are long and musical, inspired by the Greek light, the sea, and the air. The autobiographical elements of his poetry are coloured by allusions to the history of Greece, and his poems express a contemporary consciousness fully resonant with those echoes of the past that have shaped the modern Greek experience.

Mikis Theodorakis (1925-2021) was born 100 years ago on 29 July 1925, and is best remembered outside Greece as the composer of the scores for Zorba the Greek and Z. In Greece,he is the great national composer, who collaborated with some of the most prominent Greek singers and film makers. He is the composer of the Left, whose songs became anthems of the resisance during the colonels’ junta in 1967-1974. He was especially drawn to the work of Elytis, whose writings were a mirror to the revolutionary music of Theodorakis.

Odysseus Elytis (Οδυσσέας Ελύτης) was his pen name, but he was born Odysseus Alepoudellis (Οδυσσέας Αλεπουδέλλης) in Iraklion on 2 November 1911, into the Alepoudelis family, an old industrial family from Lesbos.

When he was three, his family moved to Athens, where he later studied law at the University of Athens. He published his first poem in 1935 in the journal New Letters (Νέα Γράμματα) at the prompting of friends such as George Seferis. His entry with a distinctively earthy and original form assisted to inaugurate a new era in Greek poetry and its subsequent reform after World War II.

He was a lieutenant in the Greek army during World War II, and fought on the Albanian frontline, resisting the Italian invasion. After World War II, he was twice Programme Director of ERT, the Greek National Radio Foundation (1945-1946, 1953-1954). In between, he studied philosophy at the Sorbonne in Paris and worked for the BBC in London. He moved in literary and artistic circles that included Matisse, Picasso, Chagall and Sartre, but was private and solitary in pursuing his poetry.

His great epic poem, Το Άξιον Εστί (To Axion Esti, It is Worthy) was published in 1959, after a period of more than 10 years of poetic silence. It became one of the most widely read volumes of poetry published in Greece since World War II, and it remains a classic to this day. His Axion Esti , widely regarded as his chef d’oeuvre, is a poetic cycle of alternating prose and verse patterned after the ancient Byzantine liturgy.

As in his other writings, Elytis depicts Greek reality through an intensely personal tone. It is a hymn to creation inspired by the Greek Orthodox liturgy and the 17th century epic poetry of Crete, including the Erotokritos (Ἐρωτόκριτος) by Vikentios Kornaros. It is a composition of song and praise that explores the essence of his being and the identity of his country and people. Theodorakis set the Axion Esti to music in 1964, and it became immensely popular throughout Greece. This setting by Theodorakis later contributed to Elytis receiving the Nobel Prize.

During the colonels’ junta, Elytis lived in exile in Paris (1969-1972). He returned to Greece, and in 1975 was awarded an honorary PhD by Thessaloniki University and received the honorary citizenship of Mytilene. He received the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1979. He died of a heart attack in Athens on 18 March 1996, at the age of 84, and was buried at the First National Cemetery.

Odysseus Elytis was born in Iraklion in 1911 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Marina of the Rocks is a poem by Elytis that explores the relationship between a woman, the sea and the summer months, evoking a sense of natural beauty and freedom, suggesting a love that is both intense and fleeting, like the sun itself, and observing the fleeting nature of time and memory.

In his poetry, Elytis often focuses on the senses, and in Marina of the Rocks he evokes the heat, light and textures of the summer landscape. For the poet, the sea, rocks, and sun are central symbols of summer and the natural world, emphasising the powerful and liberating aspects of the environment as he explores the passionate relationship between the woman and the summer and the idea of memory and the passage of time, suggesting that even as the summer fades, its impact on the woman’s soul remains.

Marina of the Rocks celebrates the beauty and power of nature, the sensual experience of summer. Vivid imagery and symbolism create a sense of place and time, inviting the reader to experience the joy and melancholy of the summer months.

Every Greek above a certain age, and certainly every Greek of my age, is able to sing the adaptation of this poem as the song Marina by Theodorakis and sung by Maria Farantouri with her plaintive and haunting voice.

One version I came on across YouTube earlier this week has edited images from the 1977 film Iphigenia (Ιφιγένεια) by Michael Cacoyannis, the third in his Greek Tragedy trilogy, following Electra (1962) and The Trojan Women (1971).

When Theodorakis died in Athens on 2 September 2021 at the age of 96, he was brought back to Crete to be buried in his hometown, Galatas, near Chania. Maria Farantouri is currently on a tour that pays tribute to Theodorakis, marking his 100th birthday. The tour with Manolis Mitsias began in Thessaloniki in January and includes two concerts in Crete, in Iraklion on 13 June and in Chania on 14 June.

Δώσε μου δυόσμο να μυρίσω,
Λουίζα και βασιλικό
Μαζί μ'αυτά να σε φιλήσω,
και τι να πρωτοθυμηθώ

Τη βρύση με τα περιστέρια,
των αρχαγγέλων το σπαθί
Το περιβόλι με τ' αστέρια,
και το πηγάδι το βαθύ

Τις νύχτες που σε σεργιανούσα,
στην άλλη άκρη τ' ουρανού Και ν' ανεβαίνεις σε θωρούσα,
σαν αδελφή του αυγερινού

Μαρίνα πράσινο μου αστέρι
Μαρίνα φως του αυγερινού
Μαρίνα μου άγριο περιστέρι
Και κρίνο του καλοκαιριού

Give me mint to smell
Verbena and basil
Together with them, I will kiss you
What to remember first?

The spring with the doves
The archangel’s sword
The orchard with the stars
And the deep well

The nights when I took you for walks
To the other end of the sky
And I watched you rising,
Like a sister of the morning star

Marina, my green star,
Marina, light of the morning star,
Marina, my wild dove
And summer’s lily.



Marina of the Rocks, by Odysseus Elytis:

You have a taste of tempest on your lips —
But where did you wander
All day long in the hard reverie of stone and sea?
An eagle-bearing wind stripped the hills
Stripped your longing to the bone
And the pupils of your eyes received the message of chimera
Spotting memory with foam!
Where is the familiar slope of short September
On the red earth where you played, looking down
At the broad rows of the other girls
The corners where your friends left armfuls of rosemary.

But where did you wander
All night long in the hard reverie of stone and sea?
I told you to count in the naked water its luminous days
On your back to rejoice in the dawn of things
Or again to wander on yellow plains
With a clover of light on your breast, iambic heroine.

You have a taste of tempest on your lips
And a dress red as blood
Deep in the gold of summer
And the perfume of hyacinths —
But where did you wander
Descending toward the shores, the pebbled bays?

There was cold salty seaweed there
But deeper a human feeling that bled
And you opened your arms in astonishment naming it
Climbing lightly to the clearness of the depths
Where your own starfish shone.

Listen. Speech is the prudence of the aged
And time is a passionate sculptor of men
And the sun stands over it, a beast of hope
And you, closer to it, embrace a love
With a bitter taste of tempest on your lips.

It is not for you, blue to the bone, to think of another summer,
For the rivers to change their bed
And take you back to their mother
For you to kiss other cherry trees
Or ride on the northwest wind.

Propped on the rocks, without yesterday or tomorrow,
Facing the dangers of the rocks with a hurricane hairstyle
You will say farewell to the riddle that is yours.

Η Μαρίνα των βράχων, Ο ποιητής, Οδυσσέας Ελύτης

Έχεις μια γεύση τρικυμίας στα χείλη – Μα πού γύριζες
Ολημερίς τη σκληρή ρέμβη της πέτρας και της θάλασσας
Αετοφόρος άνεμος γύμνωσε τους λόφους
Γύμνωσε την επιθυμία σου ως το κόκαλο

Κι οι κόρες των ματιών σου πήρανε τη σκυτάλη της Χίμαιρας
Ριγώνοντας μ’ αφρό τη θύμηση!
Πού είναι η γνώριμη ανηφοριά του μικρού Σεπτεμβρίου
Στο κοκκινόχωμα όπου έπαιζες θωρώντας προς τα κάτω
Τους βαθιούς κυαμώνες των άλλων κοριτσιών

Τις γωνιές όπου οι φίλες σου άφηναν αγκαλιές τα δυοσμαρίνια

– Μα πού γύριζες;
Ολονυχτίς τη σκληρή ρέμβη της πέτρας και της θάλασσας
Σου ‘λεγα να μετράς μες στο γδυτό νερό τις φωτεινές του μέρες
Ανάσκελη να χαίρεσαι την αυγή των πραγμάτων

Ή πάλι να γυρνάς κίτρινους κάμπους
Μ’ ένα τριφύλλι φως στο στήθος σου ηρωίδα ιάμβου

Έχεις μια γεύση τρικυμίας στα χείλη
Κι ένα φόρεμα κόκκινο σαν το αίμα
Βαθιά μες στο χρυσάφι του καλοκαιριού

Και τ’ άρωμα των γυακίνθων –Μα πού γύριζες

Κατεβαίνοντας προς τους γιαλούς τους κόλπους με τα βότσαλα
Ήταν εκεί ένα κρύο αρμυρό θαλασσόχορτο
Μα πιο βαθιά ένα ανθρώπινο αίσθημα που μάτωνε
Κι άνοιγες μ’ έκπληξη τα χέρια σου λέγοντας τ’ όνομά του

Ανεβαίνοντας ανάλαφρα ως τη διαύγεια των βυθών
Όπου σελάγιζε ο δικός σου ο αστερίας.
Άκουσε ο λόγος είναι των στερνών η φρόνηση
Κι ο χρόνος γλύπτης των ανθρώπων παράφορος
Κι ο ήλιος στέκεται από πάνω του θηρίο ελπίδας

Κι εσύ πιο κοντά του σφίγγεις έναν έρωτα
Έχοντας μια πικρή γεύση τρικυμίας στα χείλη.
Δεν είναι για να λογαριάζεις γαλανή ως το κόκαλο
άλλο καλοκαίρι,
Για ν’ αλλάξουνε ρέμα τα ποτάμια
Και να σε πάνε πίσω στη μητέρα τους,

Για να ξαναφιλήσεις άλλες κερασιές
Ή για να πας καβάλα στο μαΐστρο

Στυλωμένη στους βράχους δίχως χτες και αύριο.
Στους κινδύνους των βράχων με τη χτενισιά της θύελλας
Θ’ αποχαιρετήσεις το αίνιγμά σου.



Daily prayer in Lent 2025:
44, Thursday 17 April 2025,
Maundy Thursday

An icon depicting the Last Supper or Mystical Supper seen in a shop on Ethnikis Antistaseos street in Rethymnon in Crete (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Patrick Comerford

We are reaching the climax of Holy Week, the last week in Lent. Today is Maundy Thursday (17 April 2025), known in the Orthodox Church as Great Holy Thursday, and we preparing for Good Friday tomorrow and Easter Day.

I awoke this morning to the sound of the church bells from the Cathedral and the Church of the Four Martyrs in Rethymnon, having arrived in the Hotel Brascos late last night after a flight from Luton to Iraklion. I am spending these closing days of Holy Week and Easter in Rethymnon, and I am thinking of visiting the villages of Tsesmes and Platanias, on the eastern fringes of Rethymnon later today.

My Easter visit to Crete this year means, of course, I am going to miss the Chrism Eucharist in Christ Church, Oxford, today when the bishops, priest and deacons in the opportunity to renew our ordination vows. But I may visit the cathedral and some churches in Rethymnon, Platanias and Tsesmes during the day. Before this day begins, though, I am taking some quiet time this morning to give thanks, to reflect, to pray and to read in these ways:

1, reading today’s Gospel reading;

2, a short reflection;

3, a prayer from the USPG prayer diary;

4, the Collects and Post-Communion prayer of the day.

An icon depicting the Last Supper or Mystical Supper seen in Rethymnon in Crete (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

John 13: 1-17, 31b-35 (NRSVA):

1 Now before the festival of the Passover, Jesus knew that his hour had come to depart from this world and go to the Father. Having loved his own who were in the world, he loved them to the end. 2 The devil had already put it into the heart of Judas son of Simon Iscariot to betray him. And during supper 3 Jesus, knowing that the Father had given all things into his hands, and that he had come from God and was going to God, 4 got up from the table, took off his outer robe, and tied a towel around himself. 5 Then he poured water into a basin and began to wash the disciples’ feet and to wipe them with the towel that was tied around him. 6 He came to Simon Peter, who said to him, ‘Lord, are you going to wash my feet?’ 7 Jesus answered, ‘You do not know now what I am doing, but later you will understand.’ 8 Peter said to him, ‘You will never wash my feet.’ Jesus answered, ‘Unless I wash you, you have no share with me.’ 9 Simon Peter said to him, ‘Lord, not my feet only but also my hands and my head!’ 10 Jesus said to him, ‘One who has bathed does not need to wash, except for the feet, but is entirely clean. And you are clean, though not all of you.’ 11 For he knew who was to betray him; for this reason he said, ‘Not all of you are clean.’

12 After he had washed their feet, had put on his robe, and had returned to the table, he said to them, ‘Do you know what I have done to you? 13 You call me Teacher and Lord—and you are right, for that is what I am. 14 So if I, your Lord and Teacher, have washed your feet, you also ought to wash one another’s feet. 15 For I have set you an example, that you also should do as I have done to you. 16 Very truly, I tell you, servants[d] are not greater than their master, nor are messengers greater than the one who sent them. 17 If you know these things, you are blessed if you do them.

31b ‘Now the Son of Man has been glorified, and God has been glorified in him. 32 If God has been glorified in him, God will also glorify him in himself and will glorify him at once. 33 Little children, I am with you only a little longer. You will look for me; and as I said to the Jews so now I say to you, “Where I am going, you cannot come.” 34 I give you a new commandment, that you love one another. Just as I have loved you, you also should love one another. 35 By this everyone will know that you are my disciples, if you have love for one another.’

The Last Supper depicted in a window in Saint Mary’s Church, Watford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Today’s Reflection:

During Holy Week, we have a series of readings from Saint John’s Gospel, in which Jesus has a very different set of encounters or exchanges each evening.

This evening, the Water for Washing the Disciples feet continues a theme we find throughout Saint John’s Gospel:

• The waters of the River Jordan, at the Baptism of Christ (see John 1: 19-34);

• The water that is turned into wine at the wedding in Cana (John 2: 1-11);

• The Water of Life that the Samaritan Woman asks for at Jacob’s well in Sychar (John 4: 5-42);

• The water of the pool in Jerusalem where the paralysed man is healed after 38 years (John 5: 1-18);

• The water of the Sea of Galilee by which the 5,000 are fed (John 6: 1-14);

• The water by Capernaum where Jesus calms the storm (John 6: 16-21);

• The Rivers of Living Water (John 7: 37-39);

• The healing waters of the Pool of Siloam (John 9: 1-12);

• The water Christ cries out for on the Cross when he says: ‘I am thirsty’ (John 19: 28);

• The water that mingles with the blood from Christ’s side when it is pierced after his death (John 19: 32-35);

• The waters of the Sea of Tiberias, where the Risen Christ appears for a third time, after daybreak, and from which the disciples haul in 153 fish (John 21: 1-14).

Why then, in Saint John’s Gospel, does Pilate not wash his hands when he denies all responsibility on his part for the events that are to unfold that Good Friday (see John 18: 38)?

The Russian writer Mikhail Bulgakov (1891-1940) is best known for his posthumous novel The Master and Margarita, a masterpiece of the 20th century. Here Bulgakov portrays Pilate as a man who is ruthless, yet complex in his humanity. When Pilate meets Christ, he is reluctant but resigned and passively hands him over of him to those who wanted to kill him.

In this novel, Pilate exemplifies the statement ‘Cowardice is the worst of vices,’ and so he serves as a model of all the people who have washed their hands by silently or actively taking part in the Stalin’s crimes.

The actor Richard Boone plays a calm and stern, though, slightly guilt-ridden Pilate in the 1953 film The Robe (1953). There is an interesting touch when Pilate asks again for water to wash his hands, forgetting he has already washed those hands at the conclusion of the trial of Jesus.

When do we forget that we are complicit in the sufferings of others, and when do we deny we are complicit in the sufferings of others?

As Christ washes the feet of his disciples this evening, he calls us out from our complacency and our cosy forgetfulness, and challenges us once again to renew the promises made in the waters of our Baptism, to come again with forgiveness to living and healing waters, to dine and drink with him at the banquet, to have him calm the waters in the storms in our lives, to accept the miracle, to be cleansed by the waters from his side, to walk with him afresh and to join the Disciples in the new promises of the Resurrection.

Christ washes the feet of the Disciples … a fresco on a pillar in a church in Thessaloniki (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Today’s Prayers (Thursday 17 April 2025, Maundy Thursday):

A ‘Holy Week Reflection’ provides the theme this week in ‘Pray With the World Church’, the Prayer Diary of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel).’ This theme was introduced on Sunday with reflections by Bishop David Walker of Manchester, who is the chair of USPG trustees.

The USPG Prayer Diary today (Thursday 17 April 2025, Maundy Thursday) invites us to pray:

Lord, on this sacred night, we remember your great love and sacrifice. As you took the bread and broke it, and shared the cup, you gave us the gift of yourself. We thank you.

The Collect:

God our Father,
you have invited us to share in the supper
which your Son gave to his Church
to proclaim his death until he comes:
may he nourish us by his presence,
and unite us in his love;
who is alive and reigns with you,
in the unity of the Holy Spirit,
one God, now and for ever.

The Post-Communion Prayer:

Lord Jesus Christ,
we thank you that in this wonderful sacrament
you have given us the memorial of your passion:
grant us so to reverence the sacred mysteries
of your body and blood
that we may know within ourselves
and show forth in our lives
the fruit of your redemption,
for you are alive and reign, now and for ever.

Additional Collect:

God our Father,
your Son Jesus Christ was obedient to the end
and drank the cup prepared for him:
may we who share his table
watch with him through the night of suffering
and be faithful.

Yesterday’s Reflection

Continued Tomorrow

The Church of the Four Martyrs in Rethynnon late last night (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2025)

Scripture quotations are from the New Revised Standard Version Bible: Anglicised Edition copyright © 1989, 1995 National Council of the Churches of Christ in the United States of America. Used by permission. All rights reserved worldwide. http://nrsvbibles.org