The ruins of Saint Mel’s Cathedral in Ardagh stand on a site said to date back to the fifth century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
Patrick Comerford
On the way back from Wineport Lodge near Athlone, Co Westmeath, last week, I visited the village of Ardagh, Co Longford, just off the N4 Dublin-Sligo road, 10 km from Longford town and 5 km from Edgeworthstown.
The Irish name Árd Archadh means the ‘high field.’ The village is set on high ground with good agricultural lands. About a mile from the village, a hill called Brí Leith is known locally as Ardagh Mountain, and is said to have been a centre of pre-Christian religious worship.
The ruins of Saint Mel’s Cathedral in the centre of Ardagh mark one of the most important ecclesiastical sites in Co Longford. These ruins are to the south-east of Saint Patrick’s, the Church of Ireland parish church, in a corner of the graveyard beside the road.
Tradition says Saint Patrick founded a church at Ardagh in the mid-fifth century, around 454. Here he baptised Maine, Lord of South Teffia, built a church, and consecrated his nephew, Saint Mel, the son of Patrick’s sister Darerca, as bishop, with Mel’s brother Melchu as co-bishop. It is said Mel and his three brothers had travelled with their uncle Saint Patrick to Ireland.
Although there is no historical or archaeological evidence to support these legends, Saint Mel is still regarded as the founder of the Diocese of Ardagh, and he invited Saint Brigid there to found a convent. He accepted her vows and gave her and her seven companions a site for their convent. There is no trace of an early convent in Armagh, although a holy well is named after Saint Brigid and is visited each year on her feast day, 1 February.
Saint Mel is said to have died ca 490, and his feast day is on 6 February. From the saint’s death, the line of episcopal succession in Ardagh is uncertain and the subject of speculation and legend.
Saint Erard is said to have been Bishop of Ardagh in 754, to have travelled to Rome with his companions and to have died died at Ratisbon, where he is also said to have been bishop.
At the Synod of Rath Breasail in 1111, Ardagh and Ardcarn were named as alternative centres for a diocese in East Connaught. Ardagh was chosen, and at the Synod of Kells in 1152, the Kingdom of Breifne was incorporated into the new Diocese of Kells, while the Diocese of Ardagh remained an independent see, with Saint Mel’s as its cathedral.
The first named Bishop of Ardagh was Mac Raith Ua Móráin (1152-1166). The diocese originally comprised the country of the Eastern Conmaice. It included the territory of the O’Ferals and the O’Quinns in Co Longford, called Annally, and the territory of Muintir Eolais, or the MacRannal (O’Reynolds) family in Co Leitrim.
The rival claims of Armagh and Tuam to primacy in Ardagh, beginning in 1177, led to a schism in the Diocese of Ardagh in1224. Pope Honorius III decided in favour of Armagh in 1216, this was confirmed by Pope Gregory IX in 1235, and a final settlement was agreed in 1326.
The O’Farrells, a local chieftain family, provided seven Bishops of Ardagh in the 14th and 15th centuries.
Early cathedral ruins
The ruins of Saint Mel’s Cathedral in Ardagh, with Saint Patrick’s parish church in the background (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
The remains of Saint Mel’s Cathedral in Ardagh stand to the south-east of Saint Patrick’s Church of Ireland parish church. Saint Mel is reputed to be buried within the walls of the cathedral ruins. However, this ruined church dates from three centuries after the saint’s death, and predates the introduction of a diocesan system in Ireland.
The present stone ruin, built in the eighth or ninth century, is of a cyclopean nature. Excavations have shown it was built on the site of an earlier timber church.
The ruins of Saint Mel’s Cathedral represent a typical early mediaeval church, with a simple rectangular room, accessed by a western lintelled doorway with inclined jambs, tapering from the base to the top.
The building is 10.35 metres long an 7.70 metres wide. The large blocks of stone that make up the walls sit on a stone plinth that projects slightly. Some limestone blocks in the wall measure an average of 2.5 metres by 0.90 metres. The roof would have been a high-pitched roof, supported somewhat by the antae located at the corners of the ruins.
The cathedral tower was destroyed in 1230 during a fight between supporters of rival claimants to the title of Bishop of Ardagh.
The cathedral was severely damaged in 1496 internecine warfare between factions in the O’Farrell family. A report to Rome said the cathedral was left without sacristy, bell tower or bell, and with only one altar open to the sky in a roofless church. and was never restored.
The cathedral remained in ruins in the 16th century, and when Bishop William O’Farrell died in 1516 Ardagh was said to consist of only four wooden houses and the ruined cathedral, ‘of which hardly the walls are left.’
Patrick MacMahon, who was Bishop of Ardagh in 1553-1572, was accused of leaving the cathedral in a ruinous state and doing nothing to repair it. Given the desolate state of Ardagh, the Bishops of Kilmore were also Bishops of Ardagh after 1604. A royal visitation in 1615 confirmed that the cathedral was still in ruins.
When William Bedell as Bishop of Kilmore and Ardagh (1629-1642) visited Ardagh in 1630 and reported to William Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, that Ardagh was ‘very miserable’ and that the cathedral and the bishop’s house had been razed to the ground.
Saint Mel’s crozier was found in the vicinity of the church in the 19th century. Then in 1967, archaeological excavations at the site identified the footprints of a wooden structure, dating to the eighth century, almost identical in dimensions to the present footprint of the upstanding stone structure.
The late mediaeval cathedral
The church ruins in the graveyard to the south-east of Saint Patrick’s Church (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
The church ruins in the graveyard to the south-east of the 19th century Saint Patrick’s Church of Ireland parish church may represent the late mediaeval church built to replace Saint Mel’s Cathedral.
This is a single-chamber rectangular building, with a west doorway and an east window, and three windows in both the north wall and the south wall. The church is covered with ivy and there is no architectural details that would indicate its date or age. There is a blocked doorway with a horizontal lintel in the graveyard wall.
This may be the ruined cathedral that Bishop Bedell saw when he visited Ardagh in 1630. If so, then it was ruined again during the rebellion of 1641.
The church or cathedral was restored after the Caroline restoration, but it was certainly probably abandoned by the beginning of the 19th century when the present parish church, Saint Patrick’s, was built in 1810-1812.
Saint Patrick’s Church
Saint Patrick’s Church of Ireland parish church in Ardagh was built in 1810-1812 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
Saint Patrick’s Church of Ireland parish church was a cathedral church for a period during the early 19th century, until the Dioceses of Ardagh and Kilmore were united in 1839.
The church stands in the centre of Ardagh on an elevated site in landscaped grounds, surrounded by a graveyard to the south, east and west, and with random rubble stone boundary walls.
This church is typical of churches financed the Board of First Fruits between 1711 and 1833, with two or three bays and a tower and found throughout the Irish countryside. The front or west face of the church exhibits an interesting mix of classical influences in the cornice and frieze and Gothic details. The side vestibules are a feature found in a number of the Church of Ireland churches in Co Longford.
This may be a slightly quirky church, but it is attractive and retains its early form and character and its fabric, and fine craftsmanship can be seen in the carving and detailing.
Saint Patrick’s is a three-bay single-cell church built or rebuilt in 1810, with a three-stage tower on square-plan to the west, added around 1812. It is flanked on either side, to the north and south, by a single-bay vestibule and narthex.
The church is built of rendered walls over a dressed limestone plinth, with dressed limestone quoins to the corners.
The front of the church is reached by stone steps. The front or west elevation of the church has a parapet, with moulded cornices, a carved limestone quatrefoil decoration on the frieze, a date plaque and inscribed crosses and cross loops to west elevation.
At each side of the nave, the pointed arch window openings have dressed limestone block-and-start surrounds, sills and stone tracery with quarry and storm glazing.
The east end has a triple-light pointed arch window, with dressed limestone block-and-start surrounds, sills, timber tracery and with quarry and storm glazing. There are blind pointed arch window openings, with corbelled dressed limestone surrounds, and pointed arch timber louvered openings.
The square-headed entrance opening has a pointed arch dressed limestone surround to a plain tympanum. There is a timber battened double leaf door with elaborate strap hinges, flanked by carved limestone pilasters and a moulded cornice.
There are pointed arch window openings at the sides of the vestibules too, with dressed limestone block-and-start surrounds, sills and six-over-six pane timber sliding sash windows with intersecting tracery to the heads.
The tower is built of random rubble stone at belfry level with cut stone quoins to the corners. It has cut stone corner pinnacles and a crenellated parapet. The tower also has pointed arch timber louvered openings.
The church has a pitched, natural slate roof with overhanging eaves and cast-iron rainwater goods.
The church cost £1,809 to build, and Lewis records in 1837 that the church in Ardagh is ‘a plain commodious building with a square tower, for the erection of which the late Board of First Fruits granted a loan of £900, in 1812, and the Ecclesiastical Commissioners have lately granted £301 for its repair.’
The tracery details in the nave windows suggest they were altered in the second half of the 19th century, perhaps to designs by the architect James Rawson Carroll (1830-1911), who carried out extensive works in Ardagh between 1860 and 1865.
The elevated position and the prominent site in the village makes it a dominant feature in the surrounding landscape. It forms part of an interesting group of related buildings, including the former rectory and the lychgate at the entrance to the church.
The graveyard has a number of good quality grave markers, the earliest of which is dated 1818.
Saint Patrick’s Lychgate
The lychgate leading into Saint Patrick’s churchyard was erected in 1863 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
A charming timber lychgate at the main, west entrance to Saint Patrick’s churchyard was erected in 1863. This is composed of a half-hipped terracotta flat tiled roof, with slates on each side, supported by a painted open timber post construction on red brick bases. There are double leaf timber gates with latches.
A lychgate was the place where priests traditionally met coffins before a church funeral. The word lych has its origins in Old English and means ‘corpse.’ Although lychgates are a typically Anglican feature, they are unusual in Ireland. In England, they can date from the 13th century, but many are thought to date from the 15th century. The tile roof is also an unusual feature in Ireland.
This lychgate was probably designed by the architect James Rawson Carroll (1830-1911), who carried out a number of works in Ardagh for Sir Thomas Fetherston in 1860-1865, when he was commissioned to improve the village as a memorial to his uncle, Sir George Fetherston.
Today’s cathedrals
In 1961, the parish church of Saint John in Sligo became the cathedral of the Dioceses of Ardagh and Elphin as the Cathedral Church of Saint Mary the Virgin and Saint John the Baptist, and the dean is the Dean of Elphin and Ardagh. In the renaming, the stories of Saint Mel have been forgotten.
In the Roman Catholic Church, the Bishops of Ardagh and Clonmacnoise lived in Ballymahon from 1788, but the cathedral was moved to Longford in 1838, and today the cathedral for the Diocese of Ardagh and Clonmacnoise is Saint Mel’s Cathedral in Longford.
Inside Saint Patrick’s Church of Ireland parish church in Ardagh, Co Longford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
Showing posts with label Clonmacnoise. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Clonmacnoise. Show all posts
20 August 2018
14 August 2018
Stories of wine, saints and monks
at Wineport Lodge on Lough Ree
Evening lights by the shores of Lough Ree at Wineport Lodge near Athlone, Co Westmeath (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
Patrick Comerford
I am staying for a few days at Wineport Lodge 5 km north Athlone, with a room looking out onto the shores of the inner lakes of Lough Ree on the River Shannon.
This hotel by the lakes in a tranquil setting in Co Westmeath began as Wineport Lakeside Restaurant 25 years ago, when it was opened by husband and wife Ray Byrne and Jane English in 1993. The building was substantially upgraded and expanded in 1996 to accommodate daytime trading and business meetings, and the Lodge first opened for residents in March 2002.
Since then, Wineport Lodge has grown in reputation as an award-winning restaurant and hotel. It is a member of Ireland’s Blue Book, is listed in their guides by Georgina Campbell and John and Sally McKenna, and has been the host for many series to The Restaurant Show both on RTÉ and TV3. Wineport Lodge was among the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards 2017 for Ireland’s Top 25 Romantic Hotels.
Each room has a name associated with wine, such as Tuscany and Chianti. The room I am staying in is named ‘St Julien,’ which is known for its red wine in the Bordeaux region. It takes its name from Saint-Julien-Beychevelle and is one of the six communal appellations in Médoc.
Wine is the theme throughout Westport Lordge (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
But the name Wineport predates the reputation this place has with reviewers and connoisseurs.
The association of this part of the Midlands and the wine trade does back to 542 AD, according to local lore.
When Saint Ciaran had studied for some years in Clonard and on Aran, he returned to his native Midlands to begin a monastic foundation and initially settled in a place later called Iseal Chiaran, 3 km east of Lough Ree. The name of Ballykeeran, a nearby local village, means ‘the home of Ciaran.’
Later, Saint Ciaran founded another monastery on Hare Island, and from there he moved south to Clonmacnoise, where he founded his most famous monastery and seat of learning.
From the earliest times, there was always a demand for wine in Ireland, which was never a wine-producing country. The wine trade was usually with France, but also with Spain. Early writings mention wine being imported from Gaul or France to Limerick, and then being brought up the River Shannon to Clonmacnoise.
The townland of Wineport is said to take its name, Port an Fhiona in Irish, from a sheltered place on the lakeshore at Lough Ree at which the wine imported from France was brought ashore.
Wine continues to arrive at Wineport today, but its of a very different quality, I am sure, and from a wider variety of sources.
Moments of tranquillity on the shores of Lough Ree (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
Patrick Comerford
I am staying for a few days at Wineport Lodge 5 km north Athlone, with a room looking out onto the shores of the inner lakes of Lough Ree on the River Shannon.
This hotel by the lakes in a tranquil setting in Co Westmeath began as Wineport Lakeside Restaurant 25 years ago, when it was opened by husband and wife Ray Byrne and Jane English in 1993. The building was substantially upgraded and expanded in 1996 to accommodate daytime trading and business meetings, and the Lodge first opened for residents in March 2002.
Since then, Wineport Lodge has grown in reputation as an award-winning restaurant and hotel. It is a member of Ireland’s Blue Book, is listed in their guides by Georgina Campbell and John and Sally McKenna, and has been the host for many series to The Restaurant Show both on RTÉ and TV3. Wineport Lodge was among the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards 2017 for Ireland’s Top 25 Romantic Hotels.
Each room has a name associated with wine, such as Tuscany and Chianti. The room I am staying in is named ‘St Julien,’ which is known for its red wine in the Bordeaux region. It takes its name from Saint-Julien-Beychevelle and is one of the six communal appellations in Médoc.
Wine is the theme throughout Westport Lordge (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
But the name Wineport predates the reputation this place has with reviewers and connoisseurs.
The association of this part of the Midlands and the wine trade does back to 542 AD, according to local lore.
When Saint Ciaran had studied for some years in Clonard and on Aran, he returned to his native Midlands to begin a monastic foundation and initially settled in a place later called Iseal Chiaran, 3 km east of Lough Ree. The name of Ballykeeran, a nearby local village, means ‘the home of Ciaran.’
Later, Saint Ciaran founded another monastery on Hare Island, and from there he moved south to Clonmacnoise, where he founded his most famous monastery and seat of learning.
From the earliest times, there was always a demand for wine in Ireland, which was never a wine-producing country. The wine trade was usually with France, but also with Spain. Early writings mention wine being imported from Gaul or France to Limerick, and then being brought up the River Shannon to Clonmacnoise.
The townland of Wineport is said to take its name, Port an Fhiona in Irish, from a sheltered place on the lakeshore at Lough Ree at which the wine imported from France was brought ashore.
Wine continues to arrive at Wineport today, but its of a very different quality, I am sure, and from a wider variety of sources.
Moments of tranquillity on the shores of Lough Ree (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)
23 August 2013
Celtic Spirituality: Our Heritage?
A granite cross marks the entrance to Saint Doulagh’s Church and site on Malahide Road in Balgriffin, Co Dublin (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)
Patrick Comerford,
Saint Doulagh’s Church, Malahide Road, Balgriffin, Co Dublin
Friday, 23 August 2013
Introduction
Last Sunday, I was speaking in Saint Lachtain’s Church in Freshford, Co Kilkenny. There I asked why, as part of our heritage, the Church of Ireland has inherited so many churches with the names of saints that are unpronounceable or with so many letters ‘H’ in them when we find it so difficult to pronounce the letter ‘H’ in Ireland.
Saint Lachtain and Saint Doulagh are among the easier saints’ names to pronounce.
Apart from Christ Church Cathedral, there were six other parish churches within the walls of the old city of Dublin. These were dedicated to Saint Michael (High Street), Saint Olave (Baker Street, a site unknown south of Wood Quay, but probably at the Lower end of Fishamble Street, at the top of a lane running to Wood Quay), Saint John the Evangelist (Fishamble Street), Saint Mary la Dame (near the site of the present City Hall), Saint Martin (which later was dedicated to Saint Werburgh, the patron saint of Chester) and Saint Nicholas.
Saint Michan’s was outside the city walls, in Oxmantown; Saint Audeon’s, named after Saint Ouen or Audoenus, was not founded until about 1190; while Saint Andrew’s is a little later.
Notice how among those six there is not one Gaelic name, and there is no dedication to Saint Patrick either. But those names parallel many of the Viking names in other walled cities or towns of the time, such as Wexford and Waterford, including Christ Church, Saint Olav, Saint Mary, Saint Michael, and so on.
For example, there were five intramural parishes in Wexford town, dedicated to Saint Doologue, Saint Mary, Saint Iberius, Saint Patrick, and Selskar (Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and not, as tradition claims, Holy Sepulchre).
The use of apostles’ names, or the name of great saints such as Nicholas, the patron of mariners, marks Viking churches, with Christ Church or Holy Trinity being the principal church in the Viking naming system. The unpronounceable saint’s names, with plenty of ‘Hs’, were left to the Gaelic Irish or Celtic settlements – with the exception of Saint Bride or Bridget, and, sometimes, Saint Patrick.
Saint Doologue’s Parish in Wexford stretched to a mere 2 ha in land area, and was once listed in Ripley’s Believe It or Not as the smallest parish in the world. It was also known as Saint Olave’s. Dating from about 1035-1060, it can be traced out at the end of South Main Street, between Stonebridge and the Talbot Hotel, on the low-lying ground between Wexford Castle (the present army barracks) and the Bishopswater stream.
Despite its size, this parish contained within its boundaries two churches: Holy Trinity, at the foot of the castle, and Saint Doologue’s, which probably stood at the present junction of Lower King Street and Barrack Street.
Saint Doologue’s in Wexford is one of only three instances of this dedication for a church in Ireland: the others are Saint Doulagh’s or Saint Olave’s on Wood Quay in Viking Dublin, and Saint Doulagh’s here in Balgriffin.
The patrons of Saint Doologue’s or Saint Olave’s near Wood Quay were the Augustinians in Bristol, just as the Augustinian Prior of Christ Church Cathedral held Saint Doulagh’s in Balgrriffin from 1038. This arrangement in the city centre continued until at least 1540, if not 1570, when the parish was incorporated into Saint John’s in Fishamble Street.
According to Stanihurst and Harris, Saint Olave’s in Dublin was also known as Saint Tullock’s or Saint Doulagh’s. But the church, like many churches of the same name, was dedicated, not to a Celtic saint, but to Saint Olafe or Saint Olaf, King of Norway, who was killed in 1030.
Almost 200 years ago, WH Mason was calling this church Saint Olaf’s, so there are a number of points where the name of Saint Doulagh (in its various spellings) and Saint Olaf overlap – in Waterford, Wexford, Dublin and Fingal – all areas with Viking rulers and strong Viking culture.
A statue of Saint Patrick on the wall of Saint Patrick’s Roman Catholic Church, Skerries (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Indeed, Mason points out that, just as within the walled city of Viking Dublin, there are few if any churches in Fingal with Irish dedications. We can point to Holmpatrick in Skerries, Saint Columba’s in Swords and Saint Patrick’s in Donabate, but these are exceptions.
The overlap between dedications to Saint Olave and Saint Doologue shows how over the centuries we have sought to reconcile our Viking Church heritage with our Celtic Church heritage, but usually at the expense of our Viking Christian heritage, neglecting and forgetting the names associated with the very people who gave a unique identity to Fingal.
It is as though there is only one spirituality that ought to be acknowledges as our Spiritual Heritage, namely Celtic Spirituality.
If you look at the shelves of our bookshops or the shelves of shops in our airport departure lounges, the greatest number of books in the area of spirituality falls into three categories: Buddhist spirituality, Angels and Celtic spirituality.
I cannot speak for the first category. But the other two, I can confidently say, are genuinely shallow and lacking in both theological and historical depth.
So, is there such a thing as Celtic Spirituality?
And is it unique?
Was Saint Patrick the source of the Christianity that made this island the “Island of Saints and Scholars”?
This evening, I would like to invite us to look at the origins of Christianity in Ireland, including the arrival of Saint Patrick and the development of the “Celtic Church” – if there ever was such a thing, and at how this has shaped and influenced – or at least contributed to, the current, shared identity of Christianity in Ireland.
Christian beginnings in Ireland
The beginning of Christian toleration in the Roman Empire and the deliberations at the Great Councils of the Church that defined the Creeds, doctrines and limits of the Church in the fourth and fifth centuries (e.g. Nicaea, 325; Constantinople, 381; Ephesus, 431; and Chalcedon, 451), coincide with the arrival of Christianity in Ireland and the time when this island begins to earn its mythical reputation as the “Island of Saints and Scholars.”
Traditionally and romantically, Saint Patrick is said to have converted the entire population of Ireland from paganism in a very short period between 432 and 461, less than the span of one generation.
But there were Christians in Ireland before Saint Patrick’s arrival and his work as a missionary is only part of the story of the origins and growth of Christianity on this island. A hint of this is already found in the way Irish mythology was long anxious to claim Irish connections with the Christian story that predate Patrick and date back even to Biblical times.
These include:
1, Altus, said to have been an Irish witness to the passion and death of Christ;
2, The legend that Conor Mac Nessa, King of Ireland, died of a broken heart when he heard of Christ’s crucifixion;
3, The story of a local king, Cormac Mac Airt, who converted to Christianity in the 3rd century;
4, Accounts of Mansuetus, said to have been an Irish bishop in 4th century France.
But there is a realistic medium between these legends and the concept of a sudden conversion to Christianity at the hands of a single missionary.
The seas provided Ireland with immediate access to the neighbouring islands and Continental Europe: Wales was less than a day away from the coast near here; the north Antrim coast and Galloway were a few hours apart, many parts of Continental Europe were accessible in a day or two by sail and ship; present-day Spain was no less than three days away; Iceland was 1,000 miles and less than a week away.
Tacitus (ca 55-120 AD) tells us that British or Gallic merchants had a reasonably good knowledge of Ireland’s “harbours and approaches.”
The “Celtic” people in Ireland were traders, raiders and plunderers, and there is evidence of Roman traders reaching Irish harbours and beyond them up rivers such as the Nore and the Barrow, trading in wine, oil and wheat. The Irish imported pottery, metalwork and bric-a-brac from Roman Gaul and Britain, and exported copper, gold, slaves, hides, cattle and wolfhounds.
By the end of the third century, people from Ireland were establishing colonies in north-west and south-west Wales, Cornwall and the west coast of Scotland.
There must have been interchange between these colonists, Christian Britons and the Roman ruling and military classes. Nor can all the traffic have been one-way; the return traffic must have brought some Christians to coastal Ireland.
By the third or fourth century, there was regular commercial, mercantile and social contact between Ireland and Roman communities in Britain and Gaul. There have been abundant finds of looted Roman coins all along the northern and eastern coasts of Ireland: at the Giant’s Causeway (1831), Coleraine (1854) and more recently at Limavaddy; and Roman silver ingots with similar Christian provenance have been found in Kent and Limerick.
Catherine Swift argues convincingly that many among the ruling class in Ireland adopted the cultural habits and social customs of Roman Britons, to the point that they became Romanised, even in their religious fashions, and what is now the Cathedral Hill in Armagh is an example of one of their temple sites.
Christianity probably arrived in Ireland in the fourth and early fifth centuries by a slow and gradual process of unplanned infiltration, from Britain and Continental Europe.
Niall of the Nine Hostages, commanded several raiding expeditions across the Irish Sea. British captives carried off by Irish raiders may have been yet another way of Christianity gaining a presence on this island. Some educated continental Christians may also have sought refuge in Ireland during the barbarian invasions of the crumbling Roman Empire, fleeing Gaul (present-day France) at the start of the fourth century, and bringing Christianity with them.
Other points of contact include the contacts made by the Irish émigrés in Britain, and trade links with Roman Britain, Gaul and Spain. A gravestone for a fifth century Irish Christian predating the mission of Saint Patrick has been found in a Christian cemetery in Trier, and fifth century Christians, some with Latin names, are commemorated on ogham stones in southern Ireland, in Carlow, Waterford, Cork and Kerry.
In other words, many factors indicate the arrival of Christianity in Ireland long before Patrick was captured as a slave, and there was a considerable Christian presence on this island before Patrick began his mission in 432.
There is some evidence that suggests the gradual conversion of Ireland by Britons in the fourth century and possibly early fifth century.
Saint Iberius’ Church, Wexford … named after one of half a dozen or more saints whose missions are said to predate that of Saint Patrick (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
There are traditions that some Irish saints predated Saint Patrick: Ciaran of Seirkieran (Diocese of Ossory); Declan of Ardmore, Co Waterford; Ibar of Begerin, Co Wexford; Ailbe of Emly, Co Tipperary; Meltioc (Multose) of Kinsale, Co Cork; and so on.
Although there is no evidence to support these largely unreliable traditions, it is worth noting that most of these are associated with the south and the south-east. And the presence of British Christians in Ireland must have had an influence, direct or indirect, on the spread of Christianity in Ireland long before 431. By the time Patrick began his mission, he would have found the British Christians resident in Ireland forming the nucleus for his mission and his Church.
The background to Saint Patrick’s mission includes the presence of perhaps three heresies in Ireland – Arianism, Priscillianism and Pelagianism – that probably arrived from western Europe in the late fourth and early fifth centuries.
Some of Priscillian’s ascetic adherents may have made their way to Ireland after he was executed in 386.
Pelagius (355-425) was vilified by Saint Jerome as a “most stupid fellow, heavy with Irish porridge,” and claims that Pelagius, or his companion Coelestius, had “his lineage of the Irish race, from the neighbourhood of the Britons.” Perhaps Jerome was insulting his opponent; but, nevertheless, it is possible that Pelagius had lived in Ireland or had Irish ancestry.
Germanus of Auxerre was sent from Rome to Britain in 429 to combat the influence of Pelagius and Pelagianism on the Church in Roman Britain. Soon after – perhaps in 431 – Palladius was ordained by Pope Celestine and was sent as the “first bishop” on a mission to “the Scotti [Irish] who believe in Christ.” So, we know that from at least the third decade of the fifth century Irish Christians were numerically large enough to have a bishop sent from Rome, and Palladius is associated with a number of church sites in Leinster.
Palladius may have worked in the south-east of Ireland for a few years. His work in Leinster was continued, perhaps, by figures such as Secundinus, Auxilius and Iserninus. His mission activities and those of Patrick may have been confused in later writings, so that much of the work and success of Palladius was attributed wrongly to Patrick.
Identifying Saint Patrick?
Saint Patrick … a stained glass window in Saint Edan’s Cathedral, Ferns, Co Wexford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
But who was Saint Patrick?
The young Patrick was captured in a great raid along with “many thousands of people” [Confessio 1], some of whom were lukewarm Christians, according to his own account; some of them could also have been committed Christians, perhaps even priests.
Saint Patrick’s account of his flight from slavery as a young man at the age of 22 may be evidence of an escape network for fugitive slaves run by concerned Christians, presumably in Leinster, more than 20 years before Patrick began his own mission [Confessio 17 and 18].
However, Patrick does not refer to Palladius. Although the missions of Palladius and Patrick may have coincided, Patrick was working in fresh territory, while Roman missionaries in Leinster were consolidating the work of Palladius and others who, by 431, had ensured that there were many people in Ireland who were Christians.
By the time Patrick began his mission, the foundations had been laid for a Church in Ireland that over the centuries that followed became a vibrant missionary Church.
In his Confessio [51], Patrick shows he is aware of episcopal activity in other parts of Ireland, with baptisms, confirmations and ordinations. Patrick says he travelled to places in Ireland “where no one else had ever penetrated, in order to baptise, or to ordain clergy, or to confirm the people” – suggesting there were places that had received episcopal ministry from other, earlier sources. So, Christianity had already taken root in the island before Saint Patrick began his mission.
The traditional account of the life of Saint Patrick says he was born about 372 in Roman Britain in Bannavem Taburniae, perhaps in Cumbria or at Dumbarton in Scotland. He says his father Calpornius was a deacon and his grandfather Potitus was a priest; both were from a relatively prosperous class of Romans.
At the age of 16, he was captured and brought to Ireland and later sold as a slave. After escaping and returning to his own people, he began to have visions of the cry of the Irish pleading to him to come back – an image probably drawn from Saint Paul’s vision in Troy of a man calling him across the sea to Macedonia (see Acts 16: 9-10).
Believing he was called by God to a mission to the Irish, Patrick entered the monastery of Saint Martin of Tours. He was subsequently ordained a bishop in Rome, and was sent to Ireland by Pope Celestine, who died in 432.
Patrick arrived from Britain in Ireland around 432, and most of the details we have of his life are from his Confessio, written in reply to the attacks on his character brought against him in England, and his Letter to Coroticus.
Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Armagh ... why did Armagh become the centre of the cult of Saint Patrick? (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
It is said that Saint Patrick built 365 churches and consecrated an equal number of bishops, established schools and convents, and held synods. The number alone indicates the mythological nature of this account – 365, as the number of days in the year, represents figuratively, rather than literally, the completion of a task.
The sites associated with Patrick include Armagh, which became the centre of the cult of Saint Patrick, Croagh Patrick in Co Mayo and Lough Derg on the borders of Co Donegal, where he is said to have spent time in retreat, and Downpatrick, where he is said to have been buried. There is no historical reason to associate him with the site of Saint Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin, or the supposed Saint Patrick’s Well at the Nassau Street side of Trinity College Dublin, or other sites such as Holmpatrick in Skerries or Saint Patrick’s Church in Donabate, both in Fingal.
There are four different dates for his death. Most traditions say he died around 460, although other authorities say he died sometime around 491 to 493.
Mediaeval sources are unanimous in describing Saint Brigid of Kildare as a contemporary of Saint Patrick.
There is a theory that there were two Patricks, although this may arise from a misreading of “the elder Patrick,” who died in 457, where elder might also be read as bishop or priest.
Neither the canons attributed to him nor the Breastplate of Saint Patrick is his work. Later seventh-century documents speak of Patrick as the successor of Palladius. However, the O Neill dynasty had Tireachan and Muirchu write spurious accounts of Patrick’s life to establish Armagh’s claims to a primacy in Ireland.
When Brian Ború became High King ca 1000 AD, he had his secretary write into the Book of Armagh a confirmation of the right of Armagh to all church revenues in Ireland. It was at least another century, however, before Armagh’s claims to primacy were recognised throughout the Irish Church.
Is there a distinctive Celtic Christianity?
The monastery at Clonard was once one of the most important centres of learning in the Irish Midlands (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Is there such a thing as ‘Celtic Christianity’ or a ‘Celtic Church’? Was there ever a distinctive Celtic Christianity?
During the late fifth and sixth centuries, the monasteries became the most important centres of Irish Christianity, including Armagh which claimed its origins in the labours of Saint Patrick, and Clonard, which is associated with work of Saint Finnian of Clonard, who is said to have trained the “Twelve Apostles of Ireland” at his abbey in the Midlands.
Glendalough ... the monastic “Valley of the Two Lakes” (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The great monasteries included places such as Kells, Glendalough, Clonmacnoise, Durrow, Bangor, Ferns, Tallaght and Finglas.
Monasticism in these islands developed with particular characteristics that are unique, so that for a long time true ecclesiastical authority lay not with bishops but with the abbots of monasteries.
Following the growth of the monastic movement in the sixth centuries, abbots controlled not only individual monasteries, but also expansive estates and the secular communities that tended them. Abbots were not necessarily ordained and many were members of an hereditary caste within noble or royal families.
A late Celtic high cross at Saint Edan’s Cathedral, Ferns, Co Wexford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
This focus on the monastery means the monastic system came to be the dominant ecclesiastical structure in the Irish Church, and the network of monasteries attached to an abbey, rather than the diocese, was the dominant administrative unit of the church.
Bishops had sacramental roles and spiritual authority, but appear to have exercised little ecclesiastical authority in the way that bishops did in continental diocesan structures modelled on the Roman administrative system.
Clonmacnoise on the banks of the River Shannon (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The monastic system In Ireland became increasingly secularised from the eighth century on, with the monasteries even making war on each other or taking part in secular wars. For example, 200 monks from Durrow Abbey are said to have been killed when they were defeated by the monks of Clonmacnoise in 764.
Saint Maelruain’s Monastery in Tallaght was part of the reforming Ceilí Dé movement of the ninth century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
A reforming monastic movement emerged in the Ceilí Dé, who were associated particularly with the monasteries in Tallaght and Finglas.
Irish missionaries in Britain
A high cross at Kells, Co Meath … this was once one of the largest monastic communities associated with Saint Colmcille or Saint Columba (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
In the sixth and seventh centuries, Irish monks established monastic foundations in what we now call Scotland – think of Saint Columba (ca 521-597) or Saint Colmcille in Kells and Iona, and in Continental Europe, especially in Gaul – think of Saint Columbanus.
Columba is associated with the foundation of abbeys at Swords in Fingal, Kells, Co Meath, and Durrow, Co Laois. However, he was held partly responsible for the Battle of Cúl Drebene (561) and was sent into exile. In 563, he founded the monastery of Iona which became one of the major centres of Irish missionary activity in Scotland and northern England.
Monks from Iona, under Saint Aidan (died 651), founded the See of Lindisfarne in Anglo-Saxon Northumbria in 635. Aidan was sent from Iona at the request of King Oswald of Northumbria, and the influences of his monks and disciples spread from Lindisfarne throughout northern England and into the Midlands.
Saint Cuthbert (ca 636-687) was involved in founding a monastery at Ripon, but when he and his colleagues from Melrose refused to conform to the date of Easter and other accepted Western practices they were expelled. He became the Prior of Melrose and later Prior of Lindisfarne, and in 685 he became Bishop of Lindisfarne. He is still associated with the Diocese of Durham
The English historian Bede (ca 673-735) implies that Irish missionary activity in northern England was more successful at converting the English than the mission started from Canterbury in southern England that began with Saint Augustine in 597.
Irish Continental missionaries
Irish monks also founded monasteries across the continent, exerting influence greater than many more ancient continental centres.
Saint Columbanus, a monk from Bangor in Co Down, left Ireland in 590 on a perpetual pilgrimage and moved to Gaul, where he founded monasteries in Annegray and Luxeuil. His fervour and his emphasis on private penance brought new spiritual energy to an area where Christianity was at a low ebb.
However, the observance of Irish customs led to the expulsion of Columbanus and his companions from Gaul in 610, and they eventually settled in Bobbio in what is today northern Italy. He died in 615; his surviving works include letters, sermons, a penitential and rules for monastic and community life.
Saint Gall, a disciple of Saint Columbanus, followed him to Italy in 612. However, Gall remained in what is now Switzerland, where he lived the life of a hermit until his death around 650. The monastery of St Gallen, which takes its name from him, was founded ca 719 on the site of his hermitage.
Pope Honorius I issued a papal privilege to Bobbio Abbey, granting it freedom from episcopal oversight. Many of the monasteries of the Irish missions adopted the Rule of Saint Columbanus, which was stricter than the Rule of Saint Benedict, which was prevalent across western Europe. This rule involved more fasting and included corporal punishment. However, it eventually gave way to the Rule of Saint Benedict by the 8th or 9th centuries.
Irish scholars who had considerable influence in the Frankish court include John Scotus Eriugena (died ca 877), one of the founders of scholasticism and one the outstanding philosophers of the day.
Distinctive Irish practices and divisions
1, The Date of Easter:
The customs and traditions particular to Insular Christianity became a matter of dispute with the wider, Western Church. The most notable dispute was over the proper calculation of the date of Easter.
The insular churches shared a method of dating Easter that was distinct from the system used on the Continent. Calculating the date of Easter is a complicated process involving both the solar and the lunar calendars.
Irish and insular Christianity used a calculation table similar to that approved by Saint Jerome. However, by the sixth and seventh centuries, it had become obsolete and had been replaced, and the divergence emerged.
The first differences over these calculations surfaced in Gaul in 602, when Saint Columbanus resisted pressure from the local bishops to conform to the new calculation.
Most groups, including the southern Irish, accepted the new tables with relatively little difficulty. At the Synod of Mag Léne around 630, the southern Irish accepted the common Easter calculation, Northumbria at the Synod of Whitby in 664, the northern Irish at the Council of Birr around 697, East Devon, Somerset and Wessex, 705, and the Picts in 710.
However, the monks of Iona and their associated monasteries raised significant objections, and Iona did not change its practice until 718. Strathclyde followed in 721, North Wales in 768, South Wales in 777, and parts of Cornwall not until 909.
2, The monastic tonsure:
In Ireland, free men had long hair, and slaves had shaven heads. However, all monks, and perhaps most of the clergy, had a distinct tonsure or method of cutting their hair, as a mark of distinction.
The prevailing Roman tonsure was a shaved circle at the top of the head, leaving a halo of hair or corona this was eventually associated with the imagery of Christ’s Crown of Thorns.
The exact shape of the Irish tonsure is unclear, but it appears the hair was in some way shorn over the head from ear to ear, perhaps in a semi-circular shape. Later, the Roman party jeered this as the tonsura Simonis Magi, in contrast to their “tonsure of Saint Peter.”
3, The Irish penitentials:
In antiquity, penance had been a public ritual. A distinctive form of penance developed In Ireland, where confession was made privately to a priest, under the seal of secrecy, and where penance was given privately and ordinarily performed privately as well.
Handbooks or “penitentials” were designed as a guide for confessors and as a means of regularising the penance given for each particular sin.
For some sins, penitents took their place in a separate part of the church during the liturgy, perhaps wearing sackcloth and ashes and took part in some form of general confession. This public penance may have followed a private confession to a bishop or priest. For some sins, private penance was allowed, but penance and reconciliation was usually a public rite that ended with absolution.
The Irish penitential practice spread throughout Continental Europe, where the form of public penance had fallen into disuse. Saint Columbanus was credited with introducing the “medicines of penance”, to Gaul.
Saint John Lateran … the Irish penitential system was adopted at the Fourth Lateran Council in 1215 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Although the Irish practice met resistance, by the beginning of the 13th century it had become the norm, and this uniquely Irish penitential system was adopted as a practice of the Western Church at the Fourth Lateran Council in 1215, with a canonical statute requiring confession at least once a year.
4, Peregrinatio:
A fourth distinctive tradition in the early Irish Church, and one connected with the penitentials, was the concept of peregrinatio pro Christo, or “exile for Christ.” The concept of peregrination in Roman Law refers to living or sojourning away from one’s homeland. It was later used by early Church Fathers, including Saint Augustine of Hippo, who wrote that Christians should live a life of peregrination in the material world while awaiting the Kingdom of God. But the idea had two additional unique meanings in Celtic countries.
The penitentials prescribed permanent or temporary exile as penance for some sins. But there was also a tradition of voluntary peregrinatio pro Christo, which involved permanently leaving home and putting oneself entirely in God’s hands. Many of these exiles became missionaries, including Saint Columba and Saint Columbanus.
There were other distinctive traditions and practices. Bede implies a baptismal rite that was at variance with the Roman practice, perhaps with some difference in the rite of confirmation.
Was Celtic Christianity unique?
The beginning of Saint Luke’s Gospel in the Saint Chad Gospels or Lichfield Gospels … Saint Chad was trained in an Irish monastery and the work in this book shows clearly the combination of Celtic and Saxon culture in the eighth century
But were these differences any greater than, for example, the differences that separated Roman and Byzantine Christianity?
Christianity came to these islands at early stage, and long before the collapse of the Roman presence in Britain. The mutual trade and commerce between these two islands, including the slave trade, was responsible for the first early presence of Christianity in Ireland, including the arrival of Saint Patrick.
Many of the myths surrounding the life of Saint Patrick may have been created to support the claims of Armagh to primacy. Many of the myths about pre-Patrician Christianity may have been created to challenge that primacy.
But, while Christianity in Ireland predates Patrick, the Patrician mission, in whatever form it came, consolidated Christian presence in Ireland. And Christianity in Ireland – and in Britain – brought new life to Christianity on Continental Europe after the collapse of the Roman Ireland.
The Staffordshire Hoard, found in a field near Lichfield, shows the intimate links between the Celtic and Anglo-Saxon worlds
Did other identities also shape the identity of the Church of Ireland?
On the other hand, Celtic Christianity was not exclusively Irish and Irish Christianity was never exclusively Celtic. A recent exhibition in Lichfield Cathedral of the treasures found in the ‘Anglo-Saxon’ or ‘Staffordshire Hoard’ shows intricately-worked ecclesiastical and civilian objects that illustrate the inseparable and intimate inter-connection between the Celtic and Saxon worlds.
Our story is the story of Christianity in Ireland, the story of Christianity on these islands, and the shared story of Christianity throughout Europe.
And that story cannot be separated from the later arrivals: the Vikings, the Anglo-Normans, their English-speaking successors, the Ulster Scots, the French-speaking Huguenots, and so on, to our present-day new arrivals and immigrants.
Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin … a Viking foundation dating from ca 1030 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
For example, the Vikings brought positive change to the Church in Ireland, and the establishment of towns and cities such as Dublin, settled in 841, Waterford and Limerick opened the way for change.
In 943, the future King Olaf of Dublin was baptised in England, and later retired to Iona. The Norse city dwellers in Ireland became Christians by around the early 11th century.
In 1028, King Sitric the Silkenbeard of Dublin made a pilgrimage to Rome, and Christ Church Cathedral was founded soon afterwards, perhaps around 1030 and certainly before he was deposed in 1036.
The first Bishop of Dublin, Dúnán, was appointed in 1030, and the bishops of the Norse cities initially looked to the Archbishops of Canterbury in their loyalty.
The diocesan structures as we know them today only date from the Synod of Rath Breasil (1111), and the Synod of Kells in Co Meath (1152), when the Archbishop of Armagh became Primate and the Diocese of Dublin was incorporated in the structures of the Irish Church.
Celtic and Continental interchange
The octagonal baptistery at Saint Doulagh’s is the only surviving detached baptistery in Ireland (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)
This site is also a continuing visible, tangible example of how Celtic Christianity and Continental Christianity interacted with each other; rather than being mutually exclusive, they had shared and reciprocal experiences.
The eight-sided baptistery to the north of the church, in the next field, shows the influence of continental Christianity on Christianity in Ireland. This octagonal baptistery is the only surviving detached baptistery in Ireland. Beside it is an open-air pool with stone seating, and these are all contained within a sunken stone enclosure.
The baptistery in Butrint, Albania, originally had an octagonal plan (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The best-known octagonal baptistery in Christian archaeology may be the baptistery in front of the west end of the Duomo in Florence. The octagonal plan that became popular for baptisteries in the Middle Ages, including those in Florence, Ravenna, Milan, Parma, Volterra and Pistoia in Italy and Butrint in Albania, served as a visual metaphor for the number eight, which in Christian numerology symbolised a new beginning. As eight follows the “complete” number, seven, so the beginning of the Christian life follows baptism.
The octagonal baptistery in Florence, built between 1059 and 1128 ... Dante was baptised there (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
In the fourth century, Saint Ambrose wrote of the octagonal baptistery in Milan: “It was fitting that the baptismal hall should stand to the number eight, by which true salvation returned to mankind.”
Those early baptisteries were roofed with domes, symbolising the heavenly realm towards which the Christian progresses after the first step of baptism. The baptismal font was usually octagonal, set beneath a dome or canopy, and encircled by columns and an ambulatory. These features were first used by the Byzantines when they altered Roman buildings to use as baptisteries.
Baptisteries commonly adjoined the atrium, or forecourt, of the church and were often large and richly decorated, such as those at Florence, Pisa and Parma. After the sixth century, baptisteries were gradually reduced to the status of small chapels inside churches.
The foundations of the first baptistery of San Giovanni in Florence date from fourth or fifth century, but the present octagonal baptistery in Florence, which is one of the oldest buildings in the city, was built between 1059 and 1128. The octagonal baptistery in the Piazza del Duomo, opposite the Cattedrale di San Zeno, or Cathedral of Saint John, in Pistoia in Tuscany, was built as late as the 14th century.
The Baptistery in Florence is renowned for its three sets of bronze doors by Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti – Michelangelo named the east pair of doors “the Gates of Paradise,” and was Dante baptised there.
The octagonal baptistery in Piazza del Duomo, opposite the Cathedral of San Zeno in Pistoia in Tuscany, dates from the 14th century. (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
So, the octagonal plan of the baptistery at Saint Doulagh’s, although on a much smaller scale, shows an awareness of and an interaction with Christian practice at the time in southern Europe, both in Italy and throughout the Byzantine realm.
Conclusions
So, there is more to the story of Christianity in Ireland than the stories of Saint Patrick and the Celtic monasteries. Christianity in Ireland predates Saint Patrick, whoever he may have been, and primitive Christianity in Ireland owes much not only to the Celts, but to the Romans, Vikings, Norman, and many others.
The question, instead, ought to be one of how we can name or claim and integrate those identities?
What about not just the Celts, Romans, Vikings, Normans, but also those who arrived later from England, Wales and Scotland, the French Huguenots, the later refugees, immigrants and asylum seekers, who also contribute to our Christian Heritage in Ireland today?
Further reading:
JR Bartlett and SD Kinsella (eds), Two Thousand Years of Christianity and Ireland (Dublin: Columba Press, 2006).
Brendan Bradshaw and Dáire Keogh (eds), Christianity in Ireland, Revisiting the Story (Dublin: Columba, 2002).
JK Clarke, ‘The Parish of St Olave,’ Dublin Historical Record (Old Dublin Society) Vol 11, No 4 (September-November, 1950), pp 116-123.
Patrick Corish, The Irish Catholic Experience (Dublin: Gill and MacMillan, 1985).
Peter Costello, Dublin Churches (Dublin: Gill and Macmillan, 1989).
Richard Haworth, ‘The Site of St Olave’s Church, Dublin,’ in John Bradley (ed), Settlement and Society in medieval Ireland: studies presented to FX Martin, osa (Kilkenny, 1988), pp 177-191.
John James McGregor, New Picture of Dublin (Dublin: CP Archer, 1821), pp 128-129.
William M Mason, The History and Antiquities of the Collegiate and Cathedral Church of St. Patrick (Dublin: 1820).
William Roche, Nicky Rossiter, Kevin Hurley, Tomás Hayes, Walk Wexford Ways (Wexford: The Print Shop, 1988).
Canon Patrick Comerford is lecturer in Anglicanism, Liturgy and Church History, the Church of Ireland Theological Institute and an Adjunct Assistant Professor in Trinity College Dublin. This lecture in Saint Doulagh’s Church, Balgriffin, on 23 August 2013, was organised by the Friends of Saint Doulagh’s, in association with Fingal County Council, as part of the programme for Heritage Week 2013.
Patrick Comerford,
Saint Doulagh’s Church, Malahide Road, Balgriffin, Co Dublin
Friday, 23 August 2013
Introduction
Last Sunday, I was speaking in Saint Lachtain’s Church in Freshford, Co Kilkenny. There I asked why, as part of our heritage, the Church of Ireland has inherited so many churches with the names of saints that are unpronounceable or with so many letters ‘H’ in them when we find it so difficult to pronounce the letter ‘H’ in Ireland.
Saint Lachtain and Saint Doulagh are among the easier saints’ names to pronounce.
Apart from Christ Church Cathedral, there were six other parish churches within the walls of the old city of Dublin. These were dedicated to Saint Michael (High Street), Saint Olave (Baker Street, a site unknown south of Wood Quay, but probably at the Lower end of Fishamble Street, at the top of a lane running to Wood Quay), Saint John the Evangelist (Fishamble Street), Saint Mary la Dame (near the site of the present City Hall), Saint Martin (which later was dedicated to Saint Werburgh, the patron saint of Chester) and Saint Nicholas.
Saint Michan’s was outside the city walls, in Oxmantown; Saint Audeon’s, named after Saint Ouen or Audoenus, was not founded until about 1190; while Saint Andrew’s is a little later.
Notice how among those six there is not one Gaelic name, and there is no dedication to Saint Patrick either. But those names parallel many of the Viking names in other walled cities or towns of the time, such as Wexford and Waterford, including Christ Church, Saint Olav, Saint Mary, Saint Michael, and so on.
For example, there were five intramural parishes in Wexford town, dedicated to Saint Doologue, Saint Mary, Saint Iberius, Saint Patrick, and Selskar (Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and not, as tradition claims, Holy Sepulchre).
The use of apostles’ names, or the name of great saints such as Nicholas, the patron of mariners, marks Viking churches, with Christ Church or Holy Trinity being the principal church in the Viking naming system. The unpronounceable saint’s names, with plenty of ‘Hs’, were left to the Gaelic Irish or Celtic settlements – with the exception of Saint Bride or Bridget, and, sometimes, Saint Patrick.
Saint Doologue’s Parish in Wexford stretched to a mere 2 ha in land area, and was once listed in Ripley’s Believe It or Not as the smallest parish in the world. It was also known as Saint Olave’s. Dating from about 1035-1060, it can be traced out at the end of South Main Street, between Stonebridge and the Talbot Hotel, on the low-lying ground between Wexford Castle (the present army barracks) and the Bishopswater stream.
Despite its size, this parish contained within its boundaries two churches: Holy Trinity, at the foot of the castle, and Saint Doologue’s, which probably stood at the present junction of Lower King Street and Barrack Street.
Saint Doologue’s in Wexford is one of only three instances of this dedication for a church in Ireland: the others are Saint Doulagh’s or Saint Olave’s on Wood Quay in Viking Dublin, and Saint Doulagh’s here in Balgriffin.
The patrons of Saint Doologue’s or Saint Olave’s near Wood Quay were the Augustinians in Bristol, just as the Augustinian Prior of Christ Church Cathedral held Saint Doulagh’s in Balgrriffin from 1038. This arrangement in the city centre continued until at least 1540, if not 1570, when the parish was incorporated into Saint John’s in Fishamble Street.
According to Stanihurst and Harris, Saint Olave’s in Dublin was also known as Saint Tullock’s or Saint Doulagh’s. But the church, like many churches of the same name, was dedicated, not to a Celtic saint, but to Saint Olafe or Saint Olaf, King of Norway, who was killed in 1030.
Almost 200 years ago, WH Mason was calling this church Saint Olaf’s, so there are a number of points where the name of Saint Doulagh (in its various spellings) and Saint Olaf overlap – in Waterford, Wexford, Dublin and Fingal – all areas with Viking rulers and strong Viking culture.
Indeed, Mason points out that, just as within the walled city of Viking Dublin, there are few if any churches in Fingal with Irish dedications. We can point to Holmpatrick in Skerries, Saint Columba’s in Swords and Saint Patrick’s in Donabate, but these are exceptions.
The overlap between dedications to Saint Olave and Saint Doologue shows how over the centuries we have sought to reconcile our Viking Church heritage with our Celtic Church heritage, but usually at the expense of our Viking Christian heritage, neglecting and forgetting the names associated with the very people who gave a unique identity to Fingal.
It is as though there is only one spirituality that ought to be acknowledges as our Spiritual Heritage, namely Celtic Spirituality.
If you look at the shelves of our bookshops or the shelves of shops in our airport departure lounges, the greatest number of books in the area of spirituality falls into three categories: Buddhist spirituality, Angels and Celtic spirituality.
I cannot speak for the first category. But the other two, I can confidently say, are genuinely shallow and lacking in both theological and historical depth.
So, is there such a thing as Celtic Spirituality?
And is it unique?
Was Saint Patrick the source of the Christianity that made this island the “Island of Saints and Scholars”?
This evening, I would like to invite us to look at the origins of Christianity in Ireland, including the arrival of Saint Patrick and the development of the “Celtic Church” – if there ever was such a thing, and at how this has shaped and influenced – or at least contributed to, the current, shared identity of Christianity in Ireland.
Christian beginnings in Ireland
The beginning of Christian toleration in the Roman Empire and the deliberations at the Great Councils of the Church that defined the Creeds, doctrines and limits of the Church in the fourth and fifth centuries (e.g. Nicaea, 325; Constantinople, 381; Ephesus, 431; and Chalcedon, 451), coincide with the arrival of Christianity in Ireland and the time when this island begins to earn its mythical reputation as the “Island of Saints and Scholars.”
Traditionally and romantically, Saint Patrick is said to have converted the entire population of Ireland from paganism in a very short period between 432 and 461, less than the span of one generation.
But there were Christians in Ireland before Saint Patrick’s arrival and his work as a missionary is only part of the story of the origins and growth of Christianity on this island. A hint of this is already found in the way Irish mythology was long anxious to claim Irish connections with the Christian story that predate Patrick and date back even to Biblical times.
These include:
1, Altus, said to have been an Irish witness to the passion and death of Christ;
2, The legend that Conor Mac Nessa, King of Ireland, died of a broken heart when he heard of Christ’s crucifixion;
3, The story of a local king, Cormac Mac Airt, who converted to Christianity in the 3rd century;
4, Accounts of Mansuetus, said to have been an Irish bishop in 4th century France.
But there is a realistic medium between these legends and the concept of a sudden conversion to Christianity at the hands of a single missionary.
The seas provided Ireland with immediate access to the neighbouring islands and Continental Europe: Wales was less than a day away from the coast near here; the north Antrim coast and Galloway were a few hours apart, many parts of Continental Europe were accessible in a day or two by sail and ship; present-day Spain was no less than three days away; Iceland was 1,000 miles and less than a week away.
Tacitus (ca 55-120 AD) tells us that British or Gallic merchants had a reasonably good knowledge of Ireland’s “harbours and approaches.”
The “Celtic” people in Ireland were traders, raiders and plunderers, and there is evidence of Roman traders reaching Irish harbours and beyond them up rivers such as the Nore and the Barrow, trading in wine, oil and wheat. The Irish imported pottery, metalwork and bric-a-brac from Roman Gaul and Britain, and exported copper, gold, slaves, hides, cattle and wolfhounds.
By the end of the third century, people from Ireland were establishing colonies in north-west and south-west Wales, Cornwall and the west coast of Scotland.
There must have been interchange between these colonists, Christian Britons and the Roman ruling and military classes. Nor can all the traffic have been one-way; the return traffic must have brought some Christians to coastal Ireland.
By the third or fourth century, there was regular commercial, mercantile and social contact between Ireland and Roman communities in Britain and Gaul. There have been abundant finds of looted Roman coins all along the northern and eastern coasts of Ireland: at the Giant’s Causeway (1831), Coleraine (1854) and more recently at Limavaddy; and Roman silver ingots with similar Christian provenance have been found in Kent and Limerick.
Catherine Swift argues convincingly that many among the ruling class in Ireland adopted the cultural habits and social customs of Roman Britons, to the point that they became Romanised, even in their religious fashions, and what is now the Cathedral Hill in Armagh is an example of one of their temple sites.
Christianity probably arrived in Ireland in the fourth and early fifth centuries by a slow and gradual process of unplanned infiltration, from Britain and Continental Europe.
Niall of the Nine Hostages, commanded several raiding expeditions across the Irish Sea. British captives carried off by Irish raiders may have been yet another way of Christianity gaining a presence on this island. Some educated continental Christians may also have sought refuge in Ireland during the barbarian invasions of the crumbling Roman Empire, fleeing Gaul (present-day France) at the start of the fourth century, and bringing Christianity with them.
Other points of contact include the contacts made by the Irish émigrés in Britain, and trade links with Roman Britain, Gaul and Spain. A gravestone for a fifth century Irish Christian predating the mission of Saint Patrick has been found in a Christian cemetery in Trier, and fifth century Christians, some with Latin names, are commemorated on ogham stones in southern Ireland, in Carlow, Waterford, Cork and Kerry.
In other words, many factors indicate the arrival of Christianity in Ireland long before Patrick was captured as a slave, and there was a considerable Christian presence on this island before Patrick began his mission in 432.
There is some evidence that suggests the gradual conversion of Ireland by Britons in the fourth century and possibly early fifth century.
Saint Iberius’ Church, Wexford … named after one of half a dozen or more saints whose missions are said to predate that of Saint Patrick (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
There are traditions that some Irish saints predated Saint Patrick: Ciaran of Seirkieran (Diocese of Ossory); Declan of Ardmore, Co Waterford; Ibar of Begerin, Co Wexford; Ailbe of Emly, Co Tipperary; Meltioc (Multose) of Kinsale, Co Cork; and so on.
Although there is no evidence to support these largely unreliable traditions, it is worth noting that most of these are associated with the south and the south-east. And the presence of British Christians in Ireland must have had an influence, direct or indirect, on the spread of Christianity in Ireland long before 431. By the time Patrick began his mission, he would have found the British Christians resident in Ireland forming the nucleus for his mission and his Church.
The background to Saint Patrick’s mission includes the presence of perhaps three heresies in Ireland – Arianism, Priscillianism and Pelagianism – that probably arrived from western Europe in the late fourth and early fifth centuries.
Some of Priscillian’s ascetic adherents may have made their way to Ireland after he was executed in 386.
Pelagius (355-425) was vilified by Saint Jerome as a “most stupid fellow, heavy with Irish porridge,” and claims that Pelagius, or his companion Coelestius, had “his lineage of the Irish race, from the neighbourhood of the Britons.” Perhaps Jerome was insulting his opponent; but, nevertheless, it is possible that Pelagius had lived in Ireland or had Irish ancestry.
Germanus of Auxerre was sent from Rome to Britain in 429 to combat the influence of Pelagius and Pelagianism on the Church in Roman Britain. Soon after – perhaps in 431 – Palladius was ordained by Pope Celestine and was sent as the “first bishop” on a mission to “the Scotti [Irish] who believe in Christ.” So, we know that from at least the third decade of the fifth century Irish Christians were numerically large enough to have a bishop sent from Rome, and Palladius is associated with a number of church sites in Leinster.
Palladius may have worked in the south-east of Ireland for a few years. His work in Leinster was continued, perhaps, by figures such as Secundinus, Auxilius and Iserninus. His mission activities and those of Patrick may have been confused in later writings, so that much of the work and success of Palladius was attributed wrongly to Patrick.
Identifying Saint Patrick?
But who was Saint Patrick?
The young Patrick was captured in a great raid along with “many thousands of people” [Confessio 1], some of whom were lukewarm Christians, according to his own account; some of them could also have been committed Christians, perhaps even priests.
Saint Patrick’s account of his flight from slavery as a young man at the age of 22 may be evidence of an escape network for fugitive slaves run by concerned Christians, presumably in Leinster, more than 20 years before Patrick began his own mission [Confessio 17 and 18].
However, Patrick does not refer to Palladius. Although the missions of Palladius and Patrick may have coincided, Patrick was working in fresh territory, while Roman missionaries in Leinster were consolidating the work of Palladius and others who, by 431, had ensured that there were many people in Ireland who were Christians.
By the time Patrick began his mission, the foundations had been laid for a Church in Ireland that over the centuries that followed became a vibrant missionary Church.
In his Confessio [51], Patrick shows he is aware of episcopal activity in other parts of Ireland, with baptisms, confirmations and ordinations. Patrick says he travelled to places in Ireland “where no one else had ever penetrated, in order to baptise, or to ordain clergy, or to confirm the people” – suggesting there were places that had received episcopal ministry from other, earlier sources. So, Christianity had already taken root in the island before Saint Patrick began his mission.
The traditional account of the life of Saint Patrick says he was born about 372 in Roman Britain in Bannavem Taburniae, perhaps in Cumbria or at Dumbarton in Scotland. He says his father Calpornius was a deacon and his grandfather Potitus was a priest; both were from a relatively prosperous class of Romans.
At the age of 16, he was captured and brought to Ireland and later sold as a slave. After escaping and returning to his own people, he began to have visions of the cry of the Irish pleading to him to come back – an image probably drawn from Saint Paul’s vision in Troy of a man calling him across the sea to Macedonia (see Acts 16: 9-10).
Believing he was called by God to a mission to the Irish, Patrick entered the monastery of Saint Martin of Tours. He was subsequently ordained a bishop in Rome, and was sent to Ireland by Pope Celestine, who died in 432.
Patrick arrived from Britain in Ireland around 432, and most of the details we have of his life are from his Confessio, written in reply to the attacks on his character brought against him in England, and his Letter to Coroticus.
It is said that Saint Patrick built 365 churches and consecrated an equal number of bishops, established schools and convents, and held synods. The number alone indicates the mythological nature of this account – 365, as the number of days in the year, represents figuratively, rather than literally, the completion of a task.
The sites associated with Patrick include Armagh, which became the centre of the cult of Saint Patrick, Croagh Patrick in Co Mayo and Lough Derg on the borders of Co Donegal, where he is said to have spent time in retreat, and Downpatrick, where he is said to have been buried. There is no historical reason to associate him with the site of Saint Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin, or the supposed Saint Patrick’s Well at the Nassau Street side of Trinity College Dublin, or other sites such as Holmpatrick in Skerries or Saint Patrick’s Church in Donabate, both in Fingal.
There are four different dates for his death. Most traditions say he died around 460, although other authorities say he died sometime around 491 to 493.
Mediaeval sources are unanimous in describing Saint Brigid of Kildare as a contemporary of Saint Patrick.
There is a theory that there were two Patricks, although this may arise from a misreading of “the elder Patrick,” who died in 457, where elder might also be read as bishop or priest.
Neither the canons attributed to him nor the Breastplate of Saint Patrick is his work. Later seventh-century documents speak of Patrick as the successor of Palladius. However, the O Neill dynasty had Tireachan and Muirchu write spurious accounts of Patrick’s life to establish Armagh’s claims to a primacy in Ireland.
When Brian Ború became High King ca 1000 AD, he had his secretary write into the Book of Armagh a confirmation of the right of Armagh to all church revenues in Ireland. It was at least another century, however, before Armagh’s claims to primacy were recognised throughout the Irish Church.
Is there a distinctive Celtic Christianity?
The monastery at Clonard was once one of the most important centres of learning in the Irish Midlands (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Is there such a thing as ‘Celtic Christianity’ or a ‘Celtic Church’? Was there ever a distinctive Celtic Christianity?
During the late fifth and sixth centuries, the monasteries became the most important centres of Irish Christianity, including Armagh which claimed its origins in the labours of Saint Patrick, and Clonard, which is associated with work of Saint Finnian of Clonard, who is said to have trained the “Twelve Apostles of Ireland” at his abbey in the Midlands.
The great monasteries included places such as Kells, Glendalough, Clonmacnoise, Durrow, Bangor, Ferns, Tallaght and Finglas.
Monasticism in these islands developed with particular characteristics that are unique, so that for a long time true ecclesiastical authority lay not with bishops but with the abbots of monasteries.
Following the growth of the monastic movement in the sixth centuries, abbots controlled not only individual monasteries, but also expansive estates and the secular communities that tended them. Abbots were not necessarily ordained and many were members of an hereditary caste within noble or royal families.
This focus on the monastery means the monastic system came to be the dominant ecclesiastical structure in the Irish Church, and the network of monasteries attached to an abbey, rather than the diocese, was the dominant administrative unit of the church.
Bishops had sacramental roles and spiritual authority, but appear to have exercised little ecclesiastical authority in the way that bishops did in continental diocesan structures modelled on the Roman administrative system.
Clonmacnoise on the banks of the River Shannon (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The monastic system In Ireland became increasingly secularised from the eighth century on, with the monasteries even making war on each other or taking part in secular wars. For example, 200 monks from Durrow Abbey are said to have been killed when they were defeated by the monks of Clonmacnoise in 764.
Saint Maelruain’s Monastery in Tallaght was part of the reforming Ceilí Dé movement of the ninth century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
A reforming monastic movement emerged in the Ceilí Dé, who were associated particularly with the monasteries in Tallaght and Finglas.
Irish missionaries in Britain
In the sixth and seventh centuries, Irish monks established monastic foundations in what we now call Scotland – think of Saint Columba (ca 521-597) or Saint Colmcille in Kells and Iona, and in Continental Europe, especially in Gaul – think of Saint Columbanus.
Columba is associated with the foundation of abbeys at Swords in Fingal, Kells, Co Meath, and Durrow, Co Laois. However, he was held partly responsible for the Battle of Cúl Drebene (561) and was sent into exile. In 563, he founded the monastery of Iona which became one of the major centres of Irish missionary activity in Scotland and northern England.
Monks from Iona, under Saint Aidan (died 651), founded the See of Lindisfarne in Anglo-Saxon Northumbria in 635. Aidan was sent from Iona at the request of King Oswald of Northumbria, and the influences of his monks and disciples spread from Lindisfarne throughout northern England and into the Midlands.
Saint Cuthbert (ca 636-687) was involved in founding a monastery at Ripon, but when he and his colleagues from Melrose refused to conform to the date of Easter and other accepted Western practices they were expelled. He became the Prior of Melrose and later Prior of Lindisfarne, and in 685 he became Bishop of Lindisfarne. He is still associated with the Diocese of Durham
The English historian Bede (ca 673-735) implies that Irish missionary activity in northern England was more successful at converting the English than the mission started from Canterbury in southern England that began with Saint Augustine in 597.
Irish Continental missionaries
Irish monks also founded monasteries across the continent, exerting influence greater than many more ancient continental centres.
Saint Columbanus, a monk from Bangor in Co Down, left Ireland in 590 on a perpetual pilgrimage and moved to Gaul, where he founded monasteries in Annegray and Luxeuil. His fervour and his emphasis on private penance brought new spiritual energy to an area where Christianity was at a low ebb.
However, the observance of Irish customs led to the expulsion of Columbanus and his companions from Gaul in 610, and they eventually settled in Bobbio in what is today northern Italy. He died in 615; his surviving works include letters, sermons, a penitential and rules for monastic and community life.
Saint Gall, a disciple of Saint Columbanus, followed him to Italy in 612. However, Gall remained in what is now Switzerland, where he lived the life of a hermit until his death around 650. The monastery of St Gallen, which takes its name from him, was founded ca 719 on the site of his hermitage.
Pope Honorius I issued a papal privilege to Bobbio Abbey, granting it freedom from episcopal oversight. Many of the monasteries of the Irish missions adopted the Rule of Saint Columbanus, which was stricter than the Rule of Saint Benedict, which was prevalent across western Europe. This rule involved more fasting and included corporal punishment. However, it eventually gave way to the Rule of Saint Benedict by the 8th or 9th centuries.
Irish scholars who had considerable influence in the Frankish court include John Scotus Eriugena (died ca 877), one of the founders of scholasticism and one the outstanding philosophers of the day.
Distinctive Irish practices and divisions
1, The Date of Easter:
The customs and traditions particular to Insular Christianity became a matter of dispute with the wider, Western Church. The most notable dispute was over the proper calculation of the date of Easter.
The insular churches shared a method of dating Easter that was distinct from the system used on the Continent. Calculating the date of Easter is a complicated process involving both the solar and the lunar calendars.
Irish and insular Christianity used a calculation table similar to that approved by Saint Jerome. However, by the sixth and seventh centuries, it had become obsolete and had been replaced, and the divergence emerged.
The first differences over these calculations surfaced in Gaul in 602, when Saint Columbanus resisted pressure from the local bishops to conform to the new calculation.
Most groups, including the southern Irish, accepted the new tables with relatively little difficulty. At the Synod of Mag Léne around 630, the southern Irish accepted the common Easter calculation, Northumbria at the Synod of Whitby in 664, the northern Irish at the Council of Birr around 697, East Devon, Somerset and Wessex, 705, and the Picts in 710.
However, the monks of Iona and their associated monasteries raised significant objections, and Iona did not change its practice until 718. Strathclyde followed in 721, North Wales in 768, South Wales in 777, and parts of Cornwall not until 909.
2, The monastic tonsure:
In Ireland, free men had long hair, and slaves had shaven heads. However, all monks, and perhaps most of the clergy, had a distinct tonsure or method of cutting their hair, as a mark of distinction.
The prevailing Roman tonsure was a shaved circle at the top of the head, leaving a halo of hair or corona this was eventually associated with the imagery of Christ’s Crown of Thorns.
The exact shape of the Irish tonsure is unclear, but it appears the hair was in some way shorn over the head from ear to ear, perhaps in a semi-circular shape. Later, the Roman party jeered this as the tonsura Simonis Magi, in contrast to their “tonsure of Saint Peter.”
3, The Irish penitentials:
In antiquity, penance had been a public ritual. A distinctive form of penance developed In Ireland, where confession was made privately to a priest, under the seal of secrecy, and where penance was given privately and ordinarily performed privately as well.
Handbooks or “penitentials” were designed as a guide for confessors and as a means of regularising the penance given for each particular sin.
For some sins, penitents took their place in a separate part of the church during the liturgy, perhaps wearing sackcloth and ashes and took part in some form of general confession. This public penance may have followed a private confession to a bishop or priest. For some sins, private penance was allowed, but penance and reconciliation was usually a public rite that ended with absolution.
The Irish penitential practice spread throughout Continental Europe, where the form of public penance had fallen into disuse. Saint Columbanus was credited with introducing the “medicines of penance”, to Gaul.
Saint John Lateran … the Irish penitential system was adopted at the Fourth Lateran Council in 1215 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Although the Irish practice met resistance, by the beginning of the 13th century it had become the norm, and this uniquely Irish penitential system was adopted as a practice of the Western Church at the Fourth Lateran Council in 1215, with a canonical statute requiring confession at least once a year.
4, Peregrinatio:
A fourth distinctive tradition in the early Irish Church, and one connected with the penitentials, was the concept of peregrinatio pro Christo, or “exile for Christ.” The concept of peregrination in Roman Law refers to living or sojourning away from one’s homeland. It was later used by early Church Fathers, including Saint Augustine of Hippo, who wrote that Christians should live a life of peregrination in the material world while awaiting the Kingdom of God. But the idea had two additional unique meanings in Celtic countries.
The penitentials prescribed permanent or temporary exile as penance for some sins. But there was also a tradition of voluntary peregrinatio pro Christo, which involved permanently leaving home and putting oneself entirely in God’s hands. Many of these exiles became missionaries, including Saint Columba and Saint Columbanus.
There were other distinctive traditions and practices. Bede implies a baptismal rite that was at variance with the Roman practice, perhaps with some difference in the rite of confirmation.
Was Celtic Christianity unique?

But were these differences any greater than, for example, the differences that separated Roman and Byzantine Christianity?
Christianity came to these islands at early stage, and long before the collapse of the Roman presence in Britain. The mutual trade and commerce between these two islands, including the slave trade, was responsible for the first early presence of Christianity in Ireland, including the arrival of Saint Patrick.
Many of the myths surrounding the life of Saint Patrick may have been created to support the claims of Armagh to primacy. Many of the myths about pre-Patrician Christianity may have been created to challenge that primacy.
But, while Christianity in Ireland predates Patrick, the Patrician mission, in whatever form it came, consolidated Christian presence in Ireland. And Christianity in Ireland – and in Britain – brought new life to Christianity on Continental Europe after the collapse of the Roman Ireland.
The Staffordshire Hoard, found in a field near Lichfield, shows the intimate links between the Celtic and Anglo-Saxon worlds
Did other identities also shape the identity of the Church of Ireland?
On the other hand, Celtic Christianity was not exclusively Irish and Irish Christianity was never exclusively Celtic. A recent exhibition in Lichfield Cathedral of the treasures found in the ‘Anglo-Saxon’ or ‘Staffordshire Hoard’ shows intricately-worked ecclesiastical and civilian objects that illustrate the inseparable and intimate inter-connection between the Celtic and Saxon worlds.
Our story is the story of Christianity in Ireland, the story of Christianity on these islands, and the shared story of Christianity throughout Europe.
And that story cannot be separated from the later arrivals: the Vikings, the Anglo-Normans, their English-speaking successors, the Ulster Scots, the French-speaking Huguenots, and so on, to our present-day new arrivals and immigrants.
Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin … a Viking foundation dating from ca 1030 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
For example, the Vikings brought positive change to the Church in Ireland, and the establishment of towns and cities such as Dublin, settled in 841, Waterford and Limerick opened the way for change.
In 943, the future King Olaf of Dublin was baptised in England, and later retired to Iona. The Norse city dwellers in Ireland became Christians by around the early 11th century.
In 1028, King Sitric the Silkenbeard of Dublin made a pilgrimage to Rome, and Christ Church Cathedral was founded soon afterwards, perhaps around 1030 and certainly before he was deposed in 1036.
The first Bishop of Dublin, Dúnán, was appointed in 1030, and the bishops of the Norse cities initially looked to the Archbishops of Canterbury in their loyalty.
The diocesan structures as we know them today only date from the Synod of Rath Breasil (1111), and the Synod of Kells in Co Meath (1152), when the Archbishop of Armagh became Primate and the Diocese of Dublin was incorporated in the structures of the Irish Church.
Celtic and Continental interchange
The octagonal baptistery at Saint Doulagh’s is the only surviving detached baptistery in Ireland (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)
This site is also a continuing visible, tangible example of how Celtic Christianity and Continental Christianity interacted with each other; rather than being mutually exclusive, they had shared and reciprocal experiences.
The eight-sided baptistery to the north of the church, in the next field, shows the influence of continental Christianity on Christianity in Ireland. This octagonal baptistery is the only surviving detached baptistery in Ireland. Beside it is an open-air pool with stone seating, and these are all contained within a sunken stone enclosure.
The baptistery in Butrint, Albania, originally had an octagonal plan (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The best-known octagonal baptistery in Christian archaeology may be the baptistery in front of the west end of the Duomo in Florence. The octagonal plan that became popular for baptisteries in the Middle Ages, including those in Florence, Ravenna, Milan, Parma, Volterra and Pistoia in Italy and Butrint in Albania, served as a visual metaphor for the number eight, which in Christian numerology symbolised a new beginning. As eight follows the “complete” number, seven, so the beginning of the Christian life follows baptism.
The octagonal baptistery in Florence, built between 1059 and 1128 ... Dante was baptised there (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
In the fourth century, Saint Ambrose wrote of the octagonal baptistery in Milan: “It was fitting that the baptismal hall should stand to the number eight, by which true salvation returned to mankind.”
Those early baptisteries were roofed with domes, symbolising the heavenly realm towards which the Christian progresses after the first step of baptism. The baptismal font was usually octagonal, set beneath a dome or canopy, and encircled by columns and an ambulatory. These features were first used by the Byzantines when they altered Roman buildings to use as baptisteries.
Baptisteries commonly adjoined the atrium, or forecourt, of the church and were often large and richly decorated, such as those at Florence, Pisa and Parma. After the sixth century, baptisteries were gradually reduced to the status of small chapels inside churches.
The foundations of the first baptistery of San Giovanni in Florence date from fourth or fifth century, but the present octagonal baptistery in Florence, which is one of the oldest buildings in the city, was built between 1059 and 1128. The octagonal baptistery in the Piazza del Duomo, opposite the Cattedrale di San Zeno, or Cathedral of Saint John, in Pistoia in Tuscany, was built as late as the 14th century.
The Baptistery in Florence is renowned for its three sets of bronze doors by Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti – Michelangelo named the east pair of doors “the Gates of Paradise,” and was Dante baptised there.
The octagonal baptistery in Piazza del Duomo, opposite the Cathedral of San Zeno in Pistoia in Tuscany, dates from the 14th century. (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
So, the octagonal plan of the baptistery at Saint Doulagh’s, although on a much smaller scale, shows an awareness of and an interaction with Christian practice at the time in southern Europe, both in Italy and throughout the Byzantine realm.
Conclusions
So, there is more to the story of Christianity in Ireland than the stories of Saint Patrick and the Celtic monasteries. Christianity in Ireland predates Saint Patrick, whoever he may have been, and primitive Christianity in Ireland owes much not only to the Celts, but to the Romans, Vikings, Norman, and many others.
The question, instead, ought to be one of how we can name or claim and integrate those identities?
What about not just the Celts, Romans, Vikings, Normans, but also those who arrived later from England, Wales and Scotland, the French Huguenots, the later refugees, immigrants and asylum seekers, who also contribute to our Christian Heritage in Ireland today?
Further reading:
JR Bartlett and SD Kinsella (eds), Two Thousand Years of Christianity and Ireland (Dublin: Columba Press, 2006).
Brendan Bradshaw and Dáire Keogh (eds), Christianity in Ireland, Revisiting the Story (Dublin: Columba, 2002).
JK Clarke, ‘The Parish of St Olave,’ Dublin Historical Record (Old Dublin Society) Vol 11, No 4 (September-November, 1950), pp 116-123.
Patrick Corish, The Irish Catholic Experience (Dublin: Gill and MacMillan, 1985).
Peter Costello, Dublin Churches (Dublin: Gill and Macmillan, 1989).
Richard Haworth, ‘The Site of St Olave’s Church, Dublin,’ in John Bradley (ed), Settlement and Society in medieval Ireland: studies presented to FX Martin, osa (Kilkenny, 1988), pp 177-191.
John James McGregor, New Picture of Dublin (Dublin: CP Archer, 1821), pp 128-129.
William M Mason, The History and Antiquities of the Collegiate and Cathedral Church of St. Patrick (Dublin: 1820).
William Roche, Nicky Rossiter, Kevin Hurley, Tomás Hayes, Walk Wexford Ways (Wexford: The Print Shop, 1988).
Canon Patrick Comerford is lecturer in Anglicanism, Liturgy and Church History, the Church of Ireland Theological Institute and an Adjunct Assistant Professor in Trinity College Dublin. This lecture in Saint Doulagh’s Church, Balgriffin, on 23 August 2013, was organised by the Friends of Saint Doulagh’s, in association with Fingal County Council, as part of the programme for Heritage Week 2013.
Labels:
Armagh,
Balgriffin,
Baptism,
Butrint,
Celtic Spirituality,
Christ Church Cathedral,
Church History,
Clonard,
Clonmacnoise,
Ferns,
Florence,
Glendalough,
Kells,
Lichfield,
Pistoia,
Saints,
Skerries,
Tallaght,
Wexford
05 August 2012
A tour of ancient church sites on the banks of the Shannon
Saint Brendan’s Cathedral, Clonfert ... so small and so remote it is hard to imagine this was the centre of a cathedral city (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Patrick Comerford
It was one of those summer days filled with sunshine – and there have been some of them this summer. I was staying in Athlone, and found the town was a good base for visiting some of the most Ireland’s earliest monastic sites on the both banks of the River Shannon.
In the course of that one summer’s day, I visited Saint Brendan’s Cathedral in Clonfert, the ruins of Portumna Priory and Clonmacnoise, where I was brought on a journey through Irish church history from the time of Saint Patrick through the arrival of the Anglo-Normans, the mediaeval changes and the Reformation to the Church of Ireland of today.
A small and remote cathedral
The West Doorway of Clonfert Cathedral is the greatest Hiberno-Romanesque masterpiece (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Saint Brendan’s Cathedral in Clonfert, south Co Galway, is one of four cathedrals still open in the United Dioceses of Limerick and Killaloe. Sunday services are only four or five times a year and the cathedral is so small and so remote, it is hard to imagine that this sleepy village was once a cathedral city.
Saint Brendan the Navigator, who is buried here, founded a monastery in Clonfert in 563. The monastery predates stories of the saint’s voyages, and Clonfert became one of the foremost monastic schools in Ireland and the inspiration for many great missionary ventures across Europe.
Saint Peter and Saint Paul ... Victorian glass in the early 13th century east windows (Photographs: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The monastery was burned in 1016, 1164, and again in 1179, but in its heyday Clonfert may have had 3,000 monks. The centuries-old Yew Walk, with its cross-shaped paths, looks like church transept with a green ceiling. Local lore says the monks walked under the trees in silence, reading their daily office. However, the Diocese of Clonfert was not organised until 1111 and the diocesan boundaries were not fixed until 1152.
The first stone cathedral here was built around 1167 by Bishop Petrus Ua Mórda, and the earliest part of the cathedral dates from this period. The West Doorway is the crowning glory of the cathedral and the greatest masterpiece of Hiberno-Romanesque work, and the cathedral is listed in the 2000 World Monuments Watch.
The doorway has eight orders of jambs, surmounted by seven orders of arches and crowned by a triangular pediment bordered by carved ropes. The triangular pointed hoods and decorations form a unique mediaeval gallery with a truly fabulous variety of motifs, including human faces, bizarre beasts, formalised flowers and interlacing geometrical shapes, representing the way all creation points to the Trinity.
Inside, the early 13th century east windows in the chancel are among the best late Romanesque windows, filled with Victorian glass of a paired Saint Peter and Saint Paul, each decorated with strange swastika-shaped halos.
A mermaid, with a comb and mirror in the 15th century chancel arch (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The chancel arch, inserted in the 15th century, displays angels, a rosette and a mermaid holding a mirror and a comb. The supporting arches of the west tower are decorated with 15th century heads. The vestry at the north side of the cathedral also dates from the 15th century.
The cathedral also has a 15th century carved font and gravestones of great antiquity, one with a Celtic cross and a Latin inscription in Celtic lettering. At one time, there were two transepts, but the Gothic north transept has been demolished and the Romanesque south transept is now in ruins.
Impoverished diocese
Clonfert was such a remote, small and impoverished diocese that many mediaeval bishops refused to live there, and there were lengthy periods when it was without a bishop.
Robert, a Benedictine monk who became Bishop of Clonfert in 1296, was also a suffragan bishop in the Diocese of Canterbury. Robert Petit, a Franciscan friar who became bishop in 1320, was a suffragan bishop in Worcester and Exeter. Another Franciscan, Seán Ó hEidhin, was made Bishop of Clonfert twice, in 1438 and again in 1441, but was challenged by three rival claimants and probably never took office. Instead, he was a suffragan bishop in Worcester, London and Exeter, and when he died was a vicar in Essex.
The monastery survived until the 16th century. During the reign of Elizabeth I, there were proposals for a university in Clonfert, but the university went to Dublin instead.
Clonfert Palace was built in 1640 by Bishop Robert Dawson, and was home to the bishops until Christopher Butson died in 1836. When Clonfert and Kilmacduagh were united with Killaloe and Kilfernora, the palace was sold to the Trench family. The last tenant was the British fascist leader Sir Oswald Mosley. The palace was destroyed by fire in 1954, and the ruins are now covered in ivy, with trees growing in and around it.
Clonfert is part of a wider parish spread through three counties – Galway, Tipperary and Offaly – and three provinces – Connacht, Munster and Leinster. The Revd Alan Nevin is Rector and the other churches are in Eyrecourt, Portumna and Banagher.
A ruined priory
Portumna is on the northern shores of Lough Derg, where the Shannon divides Co Galway from Co Tipperary. (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Heading south, I stayed in the parish as I passed through Eyrecourt to Portumna on the northern shores of Lough Derg, where the Shannon divides Co Galway from Co Tipperary. The lawns to the south of Portumna Castle sweep down to the lake shores, with the ruins of Portumna Priory a few paces to the east.
The lawns to the south of Portumna Castle sweep down to the shores of Lough Derg (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The priory was built around 1254 by Cistercian monks from Dunbrody Abbey, Co Wexford, but became a Dominican priory around 1426 at the insistence of Pope Martin V.
The ruined priory in Portumna once served as the Church of Ireland parish church (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The priory was dissolved at the Reformation and passed to the Earls of Clanricarde, who built Portumna Castle. The priory was revived in 1640, and Patrick Sarsfield was married there in 1689. But the friars left again in 1712 and the priory church served the Church of Ireland parish until a new church was built at the castle gates in 1832.
The ruined cloisters in Portumna Priory (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The ruined priory is now a national monument. The church has fine windows in the east wall and south transept, an unusual west doorway surmounted by a window, and partially restored cloisters.
River-side monastery
Clonmacnoise, on the banks of the Shannon, stands at the crossroads of Ireland (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
From Portumna, I crossed the Shannon and followed the road north through Banagher, along the east banks of the Shannon, to Clonmacnoise in Co Offaly. This ancient monastic site stands at the crossroads of Ireland where the main east-west road along the Esker Ridge crossed the river as it flowed from north to south through the Midlands.
Clonmacnoise was founded in 548 by Saint Ciarán and seven companions. He died of the yellow plague within a year later but Clonmacnoise grew and expanded, despite constant raids and attacks. The early wooden buildings gave way to stone structures and the population grew to 2,000 by the 11th century, making the monastery a major centre of learning and creativity.
The rich heritage of Clonmacnoise includes the Cathedral, several churches, high crosses and towers, and numerous carved mediaeval graves (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Clonmacnoise had links with both the Kings of Connacht and the Kings of Tara, and many of them are buried here. In the 12th century, Clonmacnoise became the seat of a diocese, but it was always overshadowed by the neighbouring, richer and more powerful Diocese of Meath.
In the late 12th century, as Athlone became the main trading town in the midlands and the pivotal crossing-point on the Shannon, the monastery fell into decline. The people living in the monastic city drifted north to Athlone and – apart from the ruined castle – none of the domestic buildings now survive.
The arrival of continental religious orders, including the Augustinians, Benedictines, Cistercians and Franciscans, hastened the decline of the monastery. It was finally laid in ruins by the English garrison in Athlone in 1522.
High crosses and round towers
The Cathedral is the largest church in Clonmacnoise (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The site has a rich heritage that includes the Cathedral, the Church of Ireland parish church, several other churches, high crosses, round towers, and numerous carved mediaeval grave slabs.
The Cathedral, the largest church, was built in 909 by Flann Sinna, King of Tara, and Abbot Colmán. The last High King, Rory O’Connor, was buried near the altar in 1198. The west doorway dates from 1200 and the Gothic-style north doorway or “Whispering Arch” was inserted by in the 1450s by Odo, Dean of Clonmacnoise. The carved images over the north door represent Saint Dominic, Saint Patrick and Saint Francis.
The Gothic-style north doorway or ‘Whispering Arch’ was inserted by in the cathedral by Odo, Dean of Clonmacnoise, in the 1450s (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Temple Melaghlin (1200) is also known as the King’s Church, and generations of Melaghlin Kings of Meath are buried here.
Temple Dowling and the South Cross ... of the three great high crosses at Clonmacnoise (Photograph: Patrick Comerford 2012)
Temple Dowling is a tiny tenth century church but is named after Edward Dowling, who renovated and extended it in 1689, placing a stone carving of his coat of arms above the door. Temple Hurpan, a 17th century annex, was once used for burials.
Temple Finghín, a 12th century Romanesque church ... the earliest example of a church and round tower in a single structure (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Temple Finghín is a 12th century Romanesque church with a round tower belfry, McCarthy’s Tower, where the nave and chancel meet – perhaps the earliest example of a church and round tower in a single structure. When the church was vandalised in 1864, the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland initiated a landmark prosecution and later repaired the cap of the tower.
Temple Connor, or Saint Kieran’s Church, dating from the early 13th century, has been the Church of Ireland parish church since the 18th century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Temple Connor, or Saint Kieran’s Church, dating from the early 13th century, has been the Church of Ireland parish church since the 18th century. Clonmacnoise is part of the Athlone union of parishes in the Diocese of Meath, and during the summer a service is held here at 4 p.m. each Sunday and on Saint Ciarán’s Day (9 September) and an annual open-air service takes place on the third Sunday in July.
Temple Ciarán, the smallest church, is traditionally the burial place of Saint Ciarán. But, while excavations unearthed the Clonmacnoise Crosier, no saintly remains were found. To the west, low-lying stones are all that remain of Temple Kelly.
The Round Tower was built as a free-standing belfry by Turlough O’Connor, King of Connacht, and Abbot Gilla Chroist O Malone in 1124. It was hit by lightning 11 years later, and has been rebuilt in stages in the centuries that followed.
The three main High Crosses on the site have been moved to the visitors’ centre and replicas now stand at their original locations.
The Cross of the Scriptures is one of Ireland’s finest surviving high crosses, and has panels with Biblical scenes, including the Crucifixion, Christ in the Tomb, and the Last Judgment. The shaft and base are all that survive of the North Cross, the oldest of the High Crosses. Its decorations, which have been compared with the Book of Kells, include people, animals and geometrical interlacing. The South Cross has a rough carving of the Crucifixion on its west face.
Clomacnoise has been a national monument since 1877, and the Church of Ireland handed it to the Government in 1955. For centuries, the title of Dean of Clonmacnoise has been held by the Rectors of Trim. But Clonmacnoise, with its churches, towers, high crosses, and castle ruins, all on the banks of the River Shannon, remains one of the most important and picturesque ecclesiastical sites in Ireland.
Canon Patrick Comerford is Lecturer in Anglicanism and Liturgy, the Church of Ireland Theological Institute, and a canon of Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin. This essay was first published in the Church Review (Dublin and Glendalough) in August 2012.
Patrick Comerford
It was one of those summer days filled with sunshine – and there have been some of them this summer. I was staying in Athlone, and found the town was a good base for visiting some of the most Ireland’s earliest monastic sites on the both banks of the River Shannon.
In the course of that one summer’s day, I visited Saint Brendan’s Cathedral in Clonfert, the ruins of Portumna Priory and Clonmacnoise, where I was brought on a journey through Irish church history from the time of Saint Patrick through the arrival of the Anglo-Normans, the mediaeval changes and the Reformation to the Church of Ireland of today.
A small and remote cathedral
The West Doorway of Clonfert Cathedral is the greatest Hiberno-Romanesque masterpiece (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Saint Brendan’s Cathedral in Clonfert, south Co Galway, is one of four cathedrals still open in the United Dioceses of Limerick and Killaloe. Sunday services are only four or five times a year and the cathedral is so small and so remote, it is hard to imagine that this sleepy village was once a cathedral city.
Saint Brendan the Navigator, who is buried here, founded a monastery in Clonfert in 563. The monastery predates stories of the saint’s voyages, and Clonfert became one of the foremost monastic schools in Ireland and the inspiration for many great missionary ventures across Europe.
Saint Peter and Saint Paul ... Victorian glass in the early 13th century east windows (Photographs: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The monastery was burned in 1016, 1164, and again in 1179, but in its heyday Clonfert may have had 3,000 monks. The centuries-old Yew Walk, with its cross-shaped paths, looks like church transept with a green ceiling. Local lore says the monks walked under the trees in silence, reading their daily office. However, the Diocese of Clonfert was not organised until 1111 and the diocesan boundaries were not fixed until 1152.
The first stone cathedral here was built around 1167 by Bishop Petrus Ua Mórda, and the earliest part of the cathedral dates from this period. The West Doorway is the crowning glory of the cathedral and the greatest masterpiece of Hiberno-Romanesque work, and the cathedral is listed in the 2000 World Monuments Watch.
The doorway has eight orders of jambs, surmounted by seven orders of arches and crowned by a triangular pediment bordered by carved ropes. The triangular pointed hoods and decorations form a unique mediaeval gallery with a truly fabulous variety of motifs, including human faces, bizarre beasts, formalised flowers and interlacing geometrical shapes, representing the way all creation points to the Trinity.
Inside, the early 13th century east windows in the chancel are among the best late Romanesque windows, filled with Victorian glass of a paired Saint Peter and Saint Paul, each decorated with strange swastika-shaped halos.
A mermaid, with a comb and mirror in the 15th century chancel arch (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The chancel arch, inserted in the 15th century, displays angels, a rosette and a mermaid holding a mirror and a comb. The supporting arches of the west tower are decorated with 15th century heads. The vestry at the north side of the cathedral also dates from the 15th century.
The cathedral also has a 15th century carved font and gravestones of great antiquity, one with a Celtic cross and a Latin inscription in Celtic lettering. At one time, there were two transepts, but the Gothic north transept has been demolished and the Romanesque south transept is now in ruins.
Impoverished diocese
Clonfert was such a remote, small and impoverished diocese that many mediaeval bishops refused to live there, and there were lengthy periods when it was without a bishop.
Robert, a Benedictine monk who became Bishop of Clonfert in 1296, was also a suffragan bishop in the Diocese of Canterbury. Robert Petit, a Franciscan friar who became bishop in 1320, was a suffragan bishop in Worcester and Exeter. Another Franciscan, Seán Ó hEidhin, was made Bishop of Clonfert twice, in 1438 and again in 1441, but was challenged by three rival claimants and probably never took office. Instead, he was a suffragan bishop in Worcester, London and Exeter, and when he died was a vicar in Essex.
The monastery survived until the 16th century. During the reign of Elizabeth I, there were proposals for a university in Clonfert, but the university went to Dublin instead.
Clonfert Palace was built in 1640 by Bishop Robert Dawson, and was home to the bishops until Christopher Butson died in 1836. When Clonfert and Kilmacduagh were united with Killaloe and Kilfernora, the palace was sold to the Trench family. The last tenant was the British fascist leader Sir Oswald Mosley. The palace was destroyed by fire in 1954, and the ruins are now covered in ivy, with trees growing in and around it.
Clonfert is part of a wider parish spread through three counties – Galway, Tipperary and Offaly – and three provinces – Connacht, Munster and Leinster. The Revd Alan Nevin is Rector and the other churches are in Eyrecourt, Portumna and Banagher.
A ruined priory
Portumna is on the northern shores of Lough Derg, where the Shannon divides Co Galway from Co Tipperary. (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Heading south, I stayed in the parish as I passed through Eyrecourt to Portumna on the northern shores of Lough Derg, where the Shannon divides Co Galway from Co Tipperary. The lawns to the south of Portumna Castle sweep down to the lake shores, with the ruins of Portumna Priory a few paces to the east.
The lawns to the south of Portumna Castle sweep down to the shores of Lough Derg (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The priory was built around 1254 by Cistercian monks from Dunbrody Abbey, Co Wexford, but became a Dominican priory around 1426 at the insistence of Pope Martin V.
The ruined priory in Portumna once served as the Church of Ireland parish church (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The priory was dissolved at the Reformation and passed to the Earls of Clanricarde, who built Portumna Castle. The priory was revived in 1640, and Patrick Sarsfield was married there in 1689. But the friars left again in 1712 and the priory church served the Church of Ireland parish until a new church was built at the castle gates in 1832.
The ruined cloisters in Portumna Priory (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The ruined priory is now a national monument. The church has fine windows in the east wall and south transept, an unusual west doorway surmounted by a window, and partially restored cloisters.
River-side monastery
Clonmacnoise, on the banks of the Shannon, stands at the crossroads of Ireland (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
From Portumna, I crossed the Shannon and followed the road north through Banagher, along the east banks of the Shannon, to Clonmacnoise in Co Offaly. This ancient monastic site stands at the crossroads of Ireland where the main east-west road along the Esker Ridge crossed the river as it flowed from north to south through the Midlands.
Clonmacnoise was founded in 548 by Saint Ciarán and seven companions. He died of the yellow plague within a year later but Clonmacnoise grew and expanded, despite constant raids and attacks. The early wooden buildings gave way to stone structures and the population grew to 2,000 by the 11th century, making the monastery a major centre of learning and creativity.
The rich heritage of Clonmacnoise includes the Cathedral, several churches, high crosses and towers, and numerous carved mediaeval graves (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Clonmacnoise had links with both the Kings of Connacht and the Kings of Tara, and many of them are buried here. In the 12th century, Clonmacnoise became the seat of a diocese, but it was always overshadowed by the neighbouring, richer and more powerful Diocese of Meath.
In the late 12th century, as Athlone became the main trading town in the midlands and the pivotal crossing-point on the Shannon, the monastery fell into decline. The people living in the monastic city drifted north to Athlone and – apart from the ruined castle – none of the domestic buildings now survive.
The arrival of continental religious orders, including the Augustinians, Benedictines, Cistercians and Franciscans, hastened the decline of the monastery. It was finally laid in ruins by the English garrison in Athlone in 1522.
High crosses and round towers
The Cathedral is the largest church in Clonmacnoise (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
The site has a rich heritage that includes the Cathedral, the Church of Ireland parish church, several other churches, high crosses, round towers, and numerous carved mediaeval grave slabs.
The Cathedral, the largest church, was built in 909 by Flann Sinna, King of Tara, and Abbot Colmán. The last High King, Rory O’Connor, was buried near the altar in 1198. The west doorway dates from 1200 and the Gothic-style north doorway or “Whispering Arch” was inserted by in the 1450s by Odo, Dean of Clonmacnoise. The carved images over the north door represent Saint Dominic, Saint Patrick and Saint Francis.
The Gothic-style north doorway or ‘Whispering Arch’ was inserted by in the cathedral by Odo, Dean of Clonmacnoise, in the 1450s (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Temple Melaghlin (1200) is also known as the King’s Church, and generations of Melaghlin Kings of Meath are buried here.
Temple Dowling and the South Cross ... of the three great high crosses at Clonmacnoise (Photograph: Patrick Comerford 2012)
Temple Dowling is a tiny tenth century church but is named after Edward Dowling, who renovated and extended it in 1689, placing a stone carving of his coat of arms above the door. Temple Hurpan, a 17th century annex, was once used for burials.
Temple Finghín, a 12th century Romanesque church ... the earliest example of a church and round tower in a single structure (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Temple Finghín is a 12th century Romanesque church with a round tower belfry, McCarthy’s Tower, where the nave and chancel meet – perhaps the earliest example of a church and round tower in a single structure. When the church was vandalised in 1864, the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland initiated a landmark prosecution and later repaired the cap of the tower.
Temple Connor, or Saint Kieran’s Church, dating from the early 13th century, has been the Church of Ireland parish church since the 18th century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)
Temple Connor, or Saint Kieran’s Church, dating from the early 13th century, has been the Church of Ireland parish church since the 18th century. Clonmacnoise is part of the Athlone union of parishes in the Diocese of Meath, and during the summer a service is held here at 4 p.m. each Sunday and on Saint Ciarán’s Day (9 September) and an annual open-air service takes place on the third Sunday in July.
Temple Ciarán, the smallest church, is traditionally the burial place of Saint Ciarán. But, while excavations unearthed the Clonmacnoise Crosier, no saintly remains were found. To the west, low-lying stones are all that remain of Temple Kelly.
The Round Tower was built as a free-standing belfry by Turlough O’Connor, King of Connacht, and Abbot Gilla Chroist O Malone in 1124. It was hit by lightning 11 years later, and has been rebuilt in stages in the centuries that followed.
The three main High Crosses on the site have been moved to the visitors’ centre and replicas now stand at their original locations.
The Cross of the Scriptures is one of Ireland’s finest surviving high crosses, and has panels with Biblical scenes, including the Crucifixion, Christ in the Tomb, and the Last Judgment. The shaft and base are all that survive of the North Cross, the oldest of the High Crosses. Its decorations, which have been compared with the Book of Kells, include people, animals and geometrical interlacing. The South Cross has a rough carving of the Crucifixion on its west face.
Clomacnoise has been a national monument since 1877, and the Church of Ireland handed it to the Government in 1955. For centuries, the title of Dean of Clonmacnoise has been held by the Rectors of Trim. But Clonmacnoise, with its churches, towers, high crosses, and castle ruins, all on the banks of the River Shannon, remains one of the most important and picturesque ecclesiastical sites in Ireland.
Canon Patrick Comerford is Lecturer in Anglicanism and Liturgy, the Church of Ireland Theological Institute, and a canon of Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin. This essay was first published in the Church Review (Dublin and Glendalough) in August 2012.
Labels:
archaeology,
Architecture,
Athlone,
Cathedrals,
Celtic Spirituality,
Church History,
Church Review,
Clonfert,
Clonfert Cathedral,
Clonmacnoise,
Co Galway,
Country Walks,
Monasticism,
Portumna
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)