23 July 2021

Praying in Ordinary Time 2021:
55, Spike Island, Cork Harbour

The former Anglican Chapel on Spike Island stands out in the centre of a prison block (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Patrick Comerford

This has been a busy week, taking part in this year’s annual conference of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel) from Monday until Wednesday.

During this time in the Church Calendar known as Ordinary Time, I am taking some time each morning before the day gets busy to reflect in these ways:

1, photographs of a church or place of worship;

2, the day’s Gospel reading;

3, a prayer from the USPG prayer diary.

This week’s theme of island churches continues this morning (23 July 2021) with photographs from the chapels on Spike Island, the former prison island off Cobh in Cork Harbour.

Inside the Mitchel Hall, the former Anglican chapel on Spike Island (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Spike Island was once the largest convict depot in the world with over 2,300 inmates. Over the centuries, the island’s rich history has included monks and monasteries, rioters and redcoats, captains and convicts and sinners and saints.

Today the island is dominated by the 200-year old Fort Mitchel, the star-shaped fortress that became a prison holding over 2,300 prisoners. It was once the largest prison in the world and there has never been a larger prison in Ireland or Britain before or since.

The island’s strategic location in Cork Harbour meant it an ideal location for military and prison facilities in the past. But in recent years the island has been developed as a heritage tourist attraction, with over 81,000 visitors a year. Spike Island was named the top European tourist attraction at the 2017 World Travel Awards.

Over a span of 1,300 years, Spike Island has been the home of a seventh century monastery, a 24 acre fortress, the world’s largest convict depot in Victorian times and, for centuries, an island village with family homes, a school and a church.

Saint Mochuda, later known as Saint Carthage of Lismore, is said to have founded a monastery on Spike Island in the year 635 AD after he had cured the High King of Ireland and was granted ‘land including Inis Pic forever more.’

Saint Mochuda is said to have spent a year on Spike Island before leaving behind 40 followers to set up another monastery at Lismore, Co Waterford. The disciples he left behind on Spike Island continued on his work, with later descriptions say the ‘island is a most holy place in which an exceedingly devout community constantly dwell.’

The principal evidence for a monastic foundation on Spike Island is found in Archdall’s Moanasticon Hibernicum, which states that Saint Mochuda founded a monastery there in the seventh century. However, another passage from the Life of Saint Mochuda implies that Saint Mochuda was associated with a place called ‘Rahen,’ rather than Spike Island.

a The monks on Spike Island had a safe haven and sustenance on the island, farming the land and fishing the waters, until the Vikings came stormed Cork harbour in 820 AD.

They may have abandoned the island temporarily. But recent research by European scholars suggests an important ecclesiastical document, the Liber de ordine creaturarum, was written on the island. This has been described as ‘a work of magnificent conception ... Intertwining spacial and temporal dimensions, it is a bold attempt at describing God’s grand plan for the universe he created …’ If the Spanish researchers are correct about Spike Island’s origins, then future research may uncover an important scriptorium.

A grant to Saint Thomas’s Abbey, Dublin, of the Church of Saint Rusien on Spike Island in 1178 supports claims to a continuing monastic presence on the island. Some reports suggest a monastic presence there as late as the 16th century, with a monastic continuity of 900 years.

Although the ruins of a church were reported on the island in 1774 and maps of the period show the same, no traces of the monastery have been found on the island. The enormous building work by the army in the late 1700s to create Fort Mitchel may have destroyed any lingering archaeological evidence of monastic or ecclesiastical remains.

Mitchel Hall was completed in 1851 by convict and civilian labour, and the wider ‘C Block’ as it was known housed convicts sent from Mountjoy Prison in Dublin.

The central hall, an attractive building with an ornate façade, was used as an Anglican chapel until the prisoners left in the late 1800s. Religion not only offered spiritual relief to the convicts but was seen as an important part in their rehabilitation.

The Revd Henry Woodruff was the first Anglican or Church of Ireland chaplain on Spike Island, and the prison also had Roman Catholic and Presbyterian chaplains.

Father Timothy Lyons, who may have been the longest-serving staff person on the island, spent 34 years as the prison chaplain, from 1849 to 1883. In 1857, he reported, ‘All the prisoners attend at an early hour every morning in the prison chapel for Morning Prayer and at divine services every Sunday and holiday … those who have witnessed their conduct in the chapel have been much struck with their earnest and edifying behaviour.’

The Revd Charles Bernard Gibson was the Presbyterian chaplain in 1856-1863. He was critical of the prison regime: ‘the prisoners are separated from each other by thin boarded and wired partitions, like a menagerie of wild animals, that snarl and fight in defiance of their keepers.’

A silver-plated chalice and paten, used by the Anglican chaplains in the chapel on Spike Island from 1848 and 1883, is engraved with name of the Spike Island and the words ‘Convict Church 1848.’

When the prison on Spike Island closed in June 1883, the remaining convicts were transferred to Mountjoy Jail in Dublin, and the chalice and paten were taken by the then governor, Peter Hay, to his next posting in Mountjoy Prison. There they were used for services in the Church of Ireland chapel for over a century, until it closed in 2013.

The chalice and paten were donated to the Spike Island museum by the Irish Prison Service in May 2017 and are now on display in the former Punishment Block.

Later, when the fort was occupied by British and then Irish forces, Mitchel Hall, was used for Friday evening dances for the residents, for wedding receptions and other community events.

Visitors also come to Spike Island to see the house that was once the childhood home of Nellie Organ, known as ‘Little Nellie of Holy God.’ She was born on 24 August 1903, at the Royal Infantry Barracks in Waterford, the fourth child of William Organ from Dungarvan, Co Waterford, and Mary (Aherne) from Portlaw, Co Waterford. She was baptised in Trinity Parish Church (‘Trinity Without’), Ballybricken, on Sunday 30 August 1903.

The family soon moved to Spike Island when her soldier father was stationed there with his family. She displayed a precocious spiritual awareness at an early age when her mother brought her along the shoreline to the village church to Mass.

When her mother died of TB, Ellen was taken into the care of the Sisters of the Good Shepard Convent in Sunday’s Well, Cork. The Good Shepard convent was one of many ‘Magdalene Laundries’ in Ireland, with stories of abuse and unmarked graves.

The nuns in Sunday’s Well noticed the child’s religious understanding was advanced beyond her years and were devastated to learn that this pious child had also contracted TB. Despite this, her devotion grew and Ellen began to describe visions and conversations with God and Jesus, and to display knowledge of the Trinity.

She expressed a desire to receive her first Holy Communion, which Catholic children of the day normally received at the age of 12. The Good Shepherd nuns they contacted the local Bishop, who was utterly convinced that Ellen should receive Communion. She received her first Communion at the age of five, died soon after in 1908 and was buried in her communion dress at Saint Joseph’s Cemetery, Cork.

When the nuns asked to move her body to the Good Shepard cemetery, she was exhumed and the priest and two men present reported her body was incorrupt, unchanged in appearance, as if she had been buried the day before.

Her story reached Pope Pius X in Rome soon after her death. At the time, the Pope was considering lowering the age of Communion for children from 12. On hearing the story of ‘Little Nellie,’ he lowered the age for Catholic children from 12 to seven. Queen Isabella of Spain asked one of her relics, and there were similar requests from France.

The house where her family lived in on Spike Island has been preserved and her room has been recreated, with a display of some relics.

The prison and military garrison ensured the survival of a small village on the north of the island – mainly consisting of families of those employed there – survived until 1985. The village came to an end after a prison riot in 1985

Today, the village church, school, homes and community buildings are decaying and crumbling.

But from the shoreline below the village and the former village church, Saint Colman’s Cathedral can be seen towering above the town of Cobh, and its 49-bell carillon – with Ireland’s largest bell – can be heard every hour and quarter hour across the narrow straits that separate the two islands.

The Mitchel Hall at the centre of the block was used as an Anglican chapel until the last prisoners left Spike Island in the 1880s (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Matthew 13: 18-23 (NRSVA):

[Jesus said:] 18 ‘Hear then the parable of the sower. 19 When anyone hears the word of the kingdom and does not understand it, the evil one comes and snatches away what is sown in the heart; this is what was sown on the path. 20 As for what was sown on rocky ground, this is the one who hears the word and immediately receives it with joy; 21 yet such a person has no root, but endures only for a while, and when trouble or persecution arises on account of the word, that person immediately falls away. 22 As for what was sown among thorns, this is the one who hears the word, but the cares of the world and the lure of wealth choke the word, and it yields nothing. 23 But as for what was sown on good soil, this is the one who hears the word and understands it, who indeed bears fruit and yields, in one case a hundredfold, in another sixty, and in another thirty.’

The chalice and paten used by Anglican prison chaplains on Spike Island in 1848-1883 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Prayer in the USPG Prayer Diary:

The Prayer in the USPG Prayer Diary today (23 July 2021) invites us to pray:

Let us pray for religious tolerance worldwide. May we actively pursue positive interaction with people of all faiths.

Yesterday’s reflection

Continued tomorrow

The former village church on Spike Island has fallen into decay (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Scripture quotations are from the New Revised Standard Version Bible: Anglicised Edition copyright © 1989, 1995, National Council of the Churches of Christ in the United States of America. Used by permission. All rights reserved worldwide. http://nrsvbibles.org

The former family home of ‘Little Nellie of Holy God’ on Spike Island (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Comerford Lodge and how
Spanish Point developed
as a resort in West Clare

A visit to Comerford Lodge, now known as Clare Cottage, at Spanish Point, Co Clare

Patrick Comerford

The summer ‘road trip’ continues in this beautiful weather, with visits to coastal towns, resorts and villages. Having revisited a number of Comerford family homes and sites in Kilkenny, including the Langton House in the Butterslip, two of us went in search of Comerford Lodge at Spanish Point, on the west coast of Clare.

Comerford Lodge, or Clare Cottage, is a pre-Famine thatched cottage once owned by the Comerford family. The Comerford family in Spanish Point was the same family that opened Comerford’s Pub in Doonbeg, Co Clare, in 1848.

By 1900, Comerford Lodge was the home of Lizzy and Margaret Comerford. For many years, they ran the Post Office at Spanish Point Post. The earliest village at Spanish Point grew up in the vicinity of Comerford Lodge. The ruins of the pre-Famine village can be seen near the house, and the Comerford family ran the first post office to service both Spanish Point and nearby Miltown Malbay.

The Armada Hotel above the rocks and the beach at Spanish Point (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Spanish Point, 3 km west of Miltown Malbay, is a small resort with a beautiful sandy beach and golf course. Its name recalls the Spaniards who were buried here after the wreck of their Armada ships along the coast in 1588. Two ships were wrecked on the reefs at Mutton Island, 3km offshore. More than 1,000 men were drowned, and many of their bodies were carried by the tide to Spanish Point.

The Lord Deputy, William FitzWilliam, had issued a command that all Spanish found in Ireland were to be executed and their ships and treasure seized. It is said those who escaped from their sinking ships and made it safely to land were later executed by Sir Turlough O’Brien of Liscannor and Boethius Clancy, High Sheriff of Clare. They were buried in a mass grave in a place at Spanish Point known locally as Tuama Na Spáinneach, Tomb of the Spaniards.

There was no archaeological evidence for the story until 2015, when a group of historians investigating the location of the wreck of San Marcos claimed to have found a mass grave under Spanish Point.

The sandy beach at Spanish Point, Co Clare (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Over 2½ centuries later, the stories of another shipwreck devastated families in north Clare. Henry Comerford (1795-1861), a Clare-born prominent Galway merchant, was the owner of the famine ship The Brig St John that sank at Cohasset off the coast of Massachusetts in October 1849. His brother Isaac Comerford was a crew member.

Over 100 passengers drowned when The Brig St John sank, many of them from the North Clare area. Henry Comerford died at Ballykeale House, Kilfenora, in 1861.

Spanish Point began to develop as a resort before Comerford Lodge was built and before the Comerford sisters ran the post office at Spanish Point. The earliest development began in 1712 when Thomas Morony leased land in West Clare from the Earl of Thomond at an annual rental of £90.

Thomas Morony’s eldest son, Edmund Moroney, bought the land in 1750. Edmund’s eldest son, Thomas Morony, moved to Spanish Point with his family, built Miltown House, established the Miltown House Estate, and divided his estate into two settlements, Miltown Malbay and Spanish Point.

Miltown Malbay was developed as a plan. But he also saw the potential of his beautiful seaside location, encouraging friends to come and build saltwater lodges on sites he provided.

Sone of the remains of the Atlantic Hotel still stand above the shoreline at Spanish Point (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Thomas Morony built the Atlantic Hotel and developed his ‘Tepid Baths’ for visitors to enjoy the fresh sea water baths and seaweed baths. The hotel opened in June 1809 under the management of David Anderson. The hotel had beds for 70 guests and stabling for 60 horses, and for a time was celebrated as ‘the largest hotel in the British Isles.’

The seaside resort became popular with members of titled and landed families. The complex also had a large square of stables, and Morony began steeplechase races that soon became the most popular meeting in Munster. He also built houses in Spanish Point for his own sons and daughters near the hotel.

Horse drawn carriages made Spanish Point more accessible, and the Atlantic Hotel was at the centre of early 19th century tourism along the Clare coastline.

Thomas Morony, who lived at Miltown House, died in 1832 and was succeeded by his second eldest son Thomas Harrison Morony. During ‘Black ’47,’ Thomas Harrison Morony left Miltown House and moved with his wife and daughters in England. He was succeeded by his second eldest son, Burdett Morony, and his wife Eleanor.

The Morony family never managed the hotel directly, but leased it to a succession of proprietors. Then, during the Famine, it was used as an Auxiliary Workhouse. Burdett Morony recovered the hotel in 1852, and was compensated by the Ennistymon Board of Guardians for damage to the building.

The Armada Hotel stands on the site of the Atlantic Hotel (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Burdett Moroney reopened the hotel under new management in 1854. When he died in 1870, his widow Eleanor received a life interest in Miltown House. Later, during the Land War and Plan of Campaign in the 1880s, Eleanor Morony clashed with her tenants over land and other issues, ran a controversial ‘Boycott Shop,’ and for a time the hotel was used as a barracks.

When golf came to West Clare in 1892, a nine-hole golf course was added as an amenity for guests who could also play tennis, croquet, and bowling.

Eleanor Morony died in 1911 and Miltown House was inherited by another Burdett Morony who lived in England. He was an army officer during World War I, and Miltown House remained vacant.

The Morony family continued to manage the estate until it was bought by the Congested District Board in 1917-1919, and their Spanish Point property was sold to a property speculator and to tenants.

After the Irish War of Independence and the Irish Free State, many of the traditional guests did not return to the Atlantic Hotel and Spanish Point, and the hotel closed in 1930. For a time, it leased to a religious order as a summer retreat.

Most of the hotel ruin was demolished in the 1940s. The west end continued to function as licensed premises until the mid-1950s, when the licence was transferred to a single-storey corrugated roofed premises and rebranded the Armada Bar. This has since developed into the Armada Hotel.

Seaview House, built by the Morony family, is now known as Spanish Point House (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Seaview House was built by Frank Goold Morony ca 1837. The house was sold by the Ellis family in 1929 to the Sisters of Mercy, who opened Saint Joseph’s convent secondary school there. It is now known as Spanish Point House.

Comerford Lodge, less than 1 km north of the Armada Hotel, was the home in 1901 of the sisters Elizabeth and Margaret Comerford, who ran Spanish Point Post Office for many years. Lizzy was then 40 and Margaret as 42, and the widowed Kate Moroney (61) was living with them. In recent years, the house has been used by a number of different families as a summer residence and has been renamed Clare Cottage.

Having visited the former Comerford Lodge, I wanted to visit Delamain Lodge in Kinvara, where Henry Comerford lived, and Ballykeale House, near Kilfenora, where he died in 1861. But they were visits for another day. Meanwhile, two of us went on to visit Christ Church at Spanish Point.

Comerford Lodge in Spanish Point is now known as Clare Cottage (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Acknowledgements: I am grateful to the Spanish Point Community Group’s website for material in this posting.