11 June 2021

Praying in Ordinary Time 2021:
13, Saint Vitus Cathedral, Prague

Prague Cathedral and Prague Castle stand above the River Vltava (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Patrick Comerford

During this time in the Church Calendar known as Ordinary Time, I am taking some time each morning to reflect in these ways:

1, photographs of a church or place of worship;

2, the day’s Gospel reading;

3, a prayer from the prayer diary of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel).

Today in the Calendar of the Church is the Feast of Saint Barnabas. This week my photographs are of cathedrals in European capitals or former capitals. This morning (11 June 2021), my photographs are from Saint Vitus’s Cathedral in Prague, the Czech capital.

Inside Saint Vitus Cathedral in Prague … it took almost 600 years to complete its building programme (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

This spectacular cathedral in the grounds of Prague Castle has influenced Gothic architecture throughout Europe. It stands in a dominant position at the top of Hradcany Hill, and it is Prague’s most prominent landmark, with spires that can be seen from every vantage point throughout the city.

The cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Prague but is owned by the Czech government as part of the Prague Castle complex. It is the largest and most important church in the Czech Republic and here too are the tombs of King Wenceslas and many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors, as well as the Bohemian crown jewels.

The dimensions of the cathedral are 124 by 60 metres, the main tower is 102.8 metres high, the front towers 82 metres, and the arch height is 33.2 metres.

The current cathedral took almost 600 years to build, and this is the third of a series of religious buildings on this site, all dedicated to Saint Vitus.

The first church on this site was an early Romanesque rotunda founded in 930 by Vaclav I, Duke of Bohemia – better known in the west through the popular Victorian carol as ‘Good King Wenceslas.’

Saint Vitus, a Roman martyr was chosen as the patron when Wenceslas acquired the arm of the saint as a relic from Emperor Henry I.

When the Bishopric of Prague was founded in 1060, Prince Spytihněv II began building a larger Romanesque basilica on the site. This was a triple-aisled basilica with two choirs and a pair of towers connected to the western transept. The design was inspired by Romanesque architecture in the Holy Roman Empire, including the abbey church in Hildesheim and Speyer Cathedral.

The south apse of the older church was incorporated into the eastern transept because it included the tomb of Saint Wenceslaus, who had become the patron of the Czech princes.

Work on building the present Gothic cathedral began on 21 November 1344, when the Bishops of Prague were raised to the rank of archbishops.

King John of Bohemia laid the foundation stone for the new building. The patrons were the dean and chapter of cathedral, Archbishop Arnost of Pardubice and King Charles IV of Bohemia, soon to become the Holy Roman Emperor. Charles IV envisioned the new cathedral as a coronation church, family crypt, treasury and the tomb of Saint Wenceslas.

The first master builder was Matthias of Arras, who was brought from the Papal Palace in Avignon. Matthias designed the overall layout of the building in the style of a French Gothic cathedral. This included a triple-nave basilica with flying buttresses, a short transept, a five-bayed choir and a five-sided apse with an ambulatory and radiating chapels.

However, Matthias lived only long enough to build the most easterly parts of the choir: the arcades and the ambulatory. The slender vertical lines of late French Gothic style and clear proportions indicate his work.

After Matthias died in 1352, 23-year-old Peter Parler assumed control of the cathedral workshop as master builder.

At first, Parler only worked on plans left by Matthias, building the sacristy on the north side of the choir and the chapel on the south. But once he had finished all that Matthias left unfinished, Parler continued with his own innovative ideas, with a unique new synthesis of Gothic elements seen in the vaults he designed for the choir.

Parler trained as a sculptor and woodcarver, and he approached architecture as a sculpture. His vaults have double diagonal ribs that span the width of the choir-bay. The crossing pairs of ribs create a net-like construction that considerably strengthens the vault. They also give a lively ornamentation to the ceiling, as the interlocking vaulted bays create a dynamic zig-zag pattern the length of the cathedral.

His pillars have classic, bell-shaped columns, and he designed the dome vault of the new Saint Wenceslaus chapel, the clerestory walls, the original window tracery and the blind tracery panels of the buttresses.

His influence is also seen in the corbels, the passageway lintels, and the busts on the triforium, depicting faces of the royal family, saints, Bishops of Prague, and the two master builders, Matthias and Parler.

However, work on the cathedral proceeded slowly because the Emperor wanted Parler to work on other projects, including the new Charles Bridge in Prague and many churches. When Peter Parler died in 1399, only the choir and parts of the transept were finished.

Parler’s sons, Wenzel and Johannes Parler, continued his work, and they in turn were succeeded by a Master Petrilk. Under these three masters, the transept and the great tower on its south side were finished, as well as the gable that connects the tower with the south transept. Known as the ‘Golden Gate’ because of its golden mosaic of the Last Judgment depicted on it, the kings entered the cathedral through this door for their coronations.

The Hussite Wars put a stop to building work in the first half of 15th century. The workshops closed, and the cathedral furnishings, pictures and sculptures were damaged. A century later, a great fire heavily damaged the cathedral in 1541.

Several attempts to resume work on the cathedral were unsuccessful. Later attempts only brought some Renaissance and Baroque elements into the Gothic building, including the baroque spire of the south tower and the great organ in the north wing of the transept.

At a conference of German architects in Prague in 1844, Václav Pešina, a canon of the cathedral, and the architect Josef Kranner presented a programme to renovate and complete the cathedral, and a society was formed to promote the completion of the cathedral.

Josef Kranner headed the restoration work in 1861-1866 which consisted mostly of repairs, removing many baroque decorations and restoring the interior.

The foundations of the new nave were laid in 1870, and in 1873, after Kramer’s death, the work passed to the architect Josef Mocker, who designed the west façade in a classic Gothic manner with two towers.

After Mocker’s death, Kamil Hilbert became the third and final architect of the cathedral restoration.

The sculptor Vojtěch Sucharda worked on the façade in the 1920s, and the Czech Art Nouveau painter Alfons Mucha decorated the new windows in the north nave. Frantisek Kysela designed the Rose Window (1925-1927) that depicts scenes in the creation story.

Saint Vitus Cathedral was finally finished in 1929, in time for the Saint Wenceslas celebrations and almost six centuries – 585 years – after it began.

Although the entire west half of cathedral is a neo-Gothic addition, much of the design and elements developed by Peter Parler were used in the restoration, giving the cathedral a harmonious, unified appearance as a whole.

The cathedral has influenced the development of Late Gothic architecture throughout Central Europe, including the Stephansdom cathedral in Vienna, Strasbourg Cathedral, Saint Marko’s Church in Zagreb and Saint Barbara’s Church in Kutna Hora.

Regional Gothic styles in Slovenia, northern Croatia, Austria, the Czech Republic and southern Germany were all heavily influenced by Parler’s design, especially his net vaults.

Did Parler’s work on Saint Vitus Cathedral, with the ingenuity and ornamentation in his design of the vaults, influence the Perpendicular Style of English Gothic at the end of 14th century, or was it the other way around?

Saint Wenceslas Chapel is not open to the public but can be viewed from the doorways. A small door with seven locks leads from a corner of the chapel to the Crown Chamber containing the Czech Crown Jewels, displayed to the public only once every eight years or so.

Visitors also have their attention drawn to the spires, the gargoyles, the stained-glass windows. But close by are many other church buildings, including the Archbishop’s Palace, the Church of the Holy Spirit and the Basilica of Saint George, the best-preserved Romanesque church in Prague. It dates from 973, and the rust red façade is a 17th century baroque addition.

A government decree in 1954 entrusted Prague Castle to ‘all Czechoslovak people’ and to the administration of the President’s Office.

Today, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Vitus, Saint Wenceslaus and Saint Adalbert is the Roman Catholic cathedral of Prague and the seat of the Archbishop of Prague.

Until 1997, the cathedral was dedicated only to Saint Vitus, and it is still known popularly only as Saint Vitus Cathedral. In 1997, on 1000th anniversary of the death of Saint Voitechus, the church was re-dedicated to Saint Wenceslas and Saint Adalbert.

The Roman Catholic Church has filed several petitions on the ownership of the cathedral. In 2006, the President’s Office ceded the administration of the cathedral to the Metropolitan Chapter. But the courts have ruled that the cathedral is owned by the Czech Republic, although the chapter owns the interior furnishings.

Original Gothic work at the east end of the cathedral (Photograph; Patrick Comerford)

John 15: 12-17 (NRSVA):

[Jesus said:] 12 ‘This is my commandment, that you love one another as I have loved you. 13 No one has greater love than this, to lay down one’s life for one’s friends. 14 You are my friends if you do what I command you. 15 I do not call you servants any longer, because the servant does not know what the master is doing; but I have called you friends, because I have made known to you everything that I have heard from my Father. 16 You did not choose me but I chose you. And I appointed you to go and bear fruit, fruit that will last, so that the Father will give you whatever you ask him in my name. 17 I am giving you these commands so that you may love one another.’

The great west doors of Saint Vitus Cathedral (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Prayer in the USPG Prayer Diary:

The Prayer in the USPG Prayer Diary today (11 June 2021) invites us to pray:

Let us give thanks for the life and work of Saint Barnabas, friend of the poor and missionary to Cyprus.

Yesterday’s reflection

Continued tomorrow

The Last Judgment depicted on the ‘Golden Gate’ at the south side of the cathedral (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Scripture quotations are from the New Revised Standard Version Bible: Anglicised Edition copyright © 1989, 1995, National Council of the Churches of Christ in the United States of America. Used by permission. All rights reserved worldwide. http://nrsvbibles.org

Saint Colman’s Church,
one of a pair of churches
by Pain in Gort, Co Galway

Saint Colman’s Roman Catholic Church, Gort, Co Galway, stands on a site donated by the family of Lord Gort (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

Patrick Comerford

Wexford town has its twin churches – on Rowe Street and Bride Street. But Gort in Co Galway has twin churches at opposite end of Church Street, both dedicated to Saint Colman, both designed by the Limerick-based architect James Pain, and both standing on sites donated by the same family.

The site for Saint Colman’s Roman Catholic Church – like the site for Saint Colman’s Church, the former Church of Ireland parish church – was donated by the family of Lord Gort. Charles Vereker (1768-1842), 2nd Viscount Gort, gave the site to Dr Edmund Ffrench, Bishop of Kilmacduagh, and the church was built in 1825-1828. These two churches are dedicated to Saint Colman, traditionally said to be the founder of the Diocese of Kilmacduagh.

Edmund Ffrench (1775-1852) was a Dominican friar, the last Roman Catholic Warden of Galway and Bishop of Kilmacduagh and Kilfenora. His father, Edmund Ffrench, was Mayor of Galway and the Church of Ireland Warden of Galway.

The future bishop and his brother, Charles Ffrench, became Roman Catholics in their youth, through the influence of a Catholic servant. Charles went on to become a missionary in America.

Their sister Rose (1787-1857) married Francis James Blake Forster (1797-1838) of Park Lodge, Gort. Rose and Francis were the parents of Francis Blake Forster (1817-1881) of Galway, who married Mary Josephine Comerford (1827-1862), eldest daughter and co-heiress of Henry Comerford of Ballykeale House, Co Clare.

Edmund Ffrench joined the Dominicans in the Claddagh Priory, Galway, in 1794, studied in the Dominican College of Corpo Santo, Lisbon where he was ordained ca 1804, and served at Saint Michan's, Dublin, in 1806-1810.

He became the last Roman Catholic Warden of Galway when he was elected in 1812 despite being ineligible as a member of a religious order. He was criticised for not ending the disputes between the religious orders and the secular clergy. He brought the Presentation Sisters to Galway, and built Saint Nicholas’s ‘parish chapel’ as the Pro-Cathedral, on Middle and Lower Abbeygate Streets.

He was appointed Bishop of Kilmacduagh and appointed Administrator of Kilfenora in 1824, and was consecrated bishop in 1825.

Inside Saint Colman’s Church, Gort, facing the liturgical east … the church is built on a south/north axis (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

While Ffrench was bishop, Lord Gort donated the site for a new Catholic church in Gort. Building work began in 1825 while Father Michael Duffy was parish priest of Gort, and Saint Colman’s Church was dedicated Bishop Ffrench on 6 September 1828.

The post of Warden of Galway came to an end in the Roman Catholic Church in 1831, when Galway was absorbed into the new Diocese of Galway. But Edmund Ffrench remained Bishop of Kilmacduagh and Kilfenora until his death. He moved to live in Thornville, Kinvara, built nine more churches, and was committed to developing school education.

Towards the end of his life, Edmund Ffrench lived near his sister Rose Blake-Forster, at Park Lodge, Gort. He died on 14 July 1852 and was buried in what was believed to be the grave of Saint Colman mac Duagh in Kilmacduagh, outside Gort.

His nephew Captain Francis Blake-Forster, of Castle Forster and his wife Mary Josephine (Comerford) were the parents of the writer Charles French Blake-Forster (1851-1874), an antiquarian and historical writer, who compiled much of the Victorian accounts of the Comerford family history and genealogy.

Inside Saint Colman's Church, facing the liturgical west … the church was first designed by James Pain (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

Saint Colman’s is a large Gothic-style church first designed by the Limerick-based architect James Pain (1779-1877), who also designed the neighbouring Saint Colman’s Church for the Church of Ireland parish in Gort, now the town library. Pain’s work is described in my account of that church yesterday (see HERE).

Saint Colman’s is approached from Market Square, Church Road and Church Street, and it makes a highly artistic and architectural contribution to the streetscape of Gort, while its prominent corner site is a dominant feature in the town.

Pain’s elegant design of this church is complemented by the use of high-quality materials and a visually pleasing repetition of form, seen in the pointed arch windows and doors, the buttresses and the turrets.

A memorial inside the church remembers the role of Bishop Edmund Ffrench (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

Saint Colman’s was built to a cruciform plan in 1825-1828, and it was dedicated by Bishop Ffrench in 1828. Since then, the church has been much altered and extended since, with contributions by many architects, including Francis O’Connor and William Hague in the 19th century, and substantial alterations by Ralph Byrne in the 1930s.

The chancel and the sacristy, designed by an unknown architect, were added in 1876, when Father Timothy Shanahan was parish priest. The church was altered and extended in 1883, with additions to the nave designed by Francis O’Connor (1840-1908) of Ennis, Co Clare.

The façade in the early English style, the tower and spire, were designed by William Hague (1836-1899), and the original baptistry were added in 1892-1895, while Monsignor Fahy was parish priest.

The mosaic of Saint Colman above one of the doorways is the work of the firm established in Manchester by Ludwig Oppenheimer (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

The mosaics of Saint Colman and Saint John the Baptist above the doorways were added in 1915. These are the work of the firm established in Manchester by Ludwig Oppenheimer (1830-1900), and the sanctuary floor dates from the same time.

Saint Colman’s was substantially altered again in 1935-1938 by Ralph Henry Byrne (1877-1946) of Rathmines, who had once been a pupil of JJ McCarthy.

Byrne’s other churches and cathedrals about this time include the Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Athlone (1930-1936), the Cathedral of Christ the King, Mullingar (1931-1936), the Cathedral of Saint Patrick and Saint Felim, Cavan (1938-1943), the Holy Rosary Church in Harold’s Cross, Dublin (1938-1940), the Church of the Four Masters, Donegal, the completion of Saint Senanus Church, Foynes, Co Limerick (1932), commenced by JJ McCarthy, rebuilding Saint Mary’s Church, Croom, Co Limerick (1929-1932), and the Church of the Most Holy Redeemer, Newport, Co Tipperary (1933-1934).

Byrne’s additions to the church in Gort include the side aisles, rebuilding the spire, and heightening the nave roof, while Monsignor Cassidy was parish priest.

The transepts, sanctuary and sacristy were rebuilt in 1956-1959.

The mosaic of Saint John the Baptist above one of the doorways is the work of the firm established in Manchester by Ludwig Oppenheimer (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

Because of the shape and incline of the site, the church is oriented on a south-north axis rather than the traditional east-west axis. It has a three-bay nave elevation with a clerestorey and lean-to side aisles, full-height single-bay transepts, a four-stage tower at the north-west corner with a steeple, a single-bay two-storey annex at the front elevation and an apse and sacristy extension at the south (liturgically east) side.

The end bays of the front elevation have pointed arch double-leaf timber battened doors, with carved stone hood-mouldings, and mosaic panels on the tympanums, depicting Saint John the Baptist (left) and Saint Colman (right).

The central doorway has a pointed-arch opening and double-leaf timber battened doors set in a moulded limestone surround with a cross finial, square-profile corner buttresses with pinnacles, carved roll mouldings, and a carved marble panel in the tympanum.

The snecked rock-faced rusticated limestone walls have cut limestone plat bands. There are octagonal-profile corner turrets at the east end of the front elevation, stepped diagonal buttresses at the corners of the tower and the transepts, and stepped buttresses at the other side elevations.

The tower has carved string courses with decorative courses, including quatrefoils. The top stage of the tower has pointed arch openings, with trefoil-headed metal louvred windows, pointed arch openings at the other stages, and at the second stage these are tripled and have hood-mouldings.

There is a pitched slate roof with cut limestone copings, limestone cross finials at the transepts and the front, a wrought-iron cross finial at the apse, a rendered chimneystack at the sacristy, and cast-iron rainwater goods.

Inside, the marble arcaded nave and side aisles are separated by clustered piers with sculpted bosses on the capitals. There is a marble altar and a rendered reredos in the apse.

The carved marble panel in the tympanum above the central doorway (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

There are pointed arch windows in the nave, transepts and chancel. These are mainly paired, but are tripled in the side aisles and there is a triple-light in the transept gables, all with chamfered cut limestone surrounds and stained-glass windows, and with hood-mouldings in the transept gables. There is a quatrefoil window in the apex of the front elevation, and shallow triangular-headed windows in the sacristy.

The open arch-braced A-framed truss roof has hanging posts. There is a carved timber gallery at the rear over a glazed screen wall and carved timber confessionals at the east long wall.

The memorials and the plaques on the wall include ones that commemorate Bishop Edmund Ffrench, Father Michael Duffy and other parish priests involved in the various stages of building Saint Colman’s Church.

Gort is a designated heritage town, with its wide streets and squares and its coourful shopfronts (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)