18 January 2018

The literary legacy of
the Square in Listowel

The Square in Listowel is said to be modelled on Covent Garden in London (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)

Patrick Comerford

Listowel is first mentioned in the Plea Roll of 1303-1304 as Listokill, and the town of Listowel developed around the Castle and on the banks of the River Feale. But one of Listowel’s most distinguished features is the elegantly-proportioned market Square.

The Square was first designed in the 1820s to the 1840s, and the current layout of the Square is similar to the Larkin map of 1810. It is reputed to be modelled on Covent Garden in London. This seems unlikely, though, for in the late 18th century Covent Garden was a well-known red-light district, attracting notable prostitutes, including Betty Careless and Jane Douglas.

The main buildings on the Square include Listowel Castle and Saint John’s Church, the former Church of Ireland parish church, now Saint John’s Theatre and Arts Centre. Other landmark buildings on the Square include Saint Mary’s Roman Catholic Church, built in 1829, and the Listowel Arms Hotel, which I was writing about yesterday.

The site of Saint John’s Church was presented to the community by Lord Listowel in 1814. It was designed as a Gothic-style church by the Limerick-based architect, John Pain, and local lore says the stones used to build Saint John’s were taken from the ruins of Listowel Castle.

Saint John’s opened in 1819, but closed as a church in 1988. The Church of Ireland parishioners and the people of Listowel were anxious to preserve the building and make it a centre for local cultural activities and heritage, and it now houses a theatre and arts centre. The programme at Saint John’s includes theatre, music and dance, exhibitions, educational programmes and an annual summer school.

Inside Saint John’s Church, Listowel … opened 200 years ago in 1819 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)

The charm of the Square is enhanced by several elegant Georgian and Victorian shops, commercial premises and houses that line the street frontage.

The 19th and 20th commercial buildings on the Square include three banks – the Bank of Ireland, Allied Irish Banks and the former National Bank – and the Castle Inn, beside Saint Mary’s Church and dating from the 1820s.

A fine example of the commercial buildings on the Square is provided by the former National Bank, which was built around 1880 is now in offices. This is a detached, five-bay three-storey former bank, with single-bay three-storey advanced end bays. The round-headed ground floor windows have vermiculated keystones. The arched doorways have coved, rope-moulded reveals and the keystones have carved masks.

Many of the Georgian and Victorian houses on the Square were the townhouses of local landed families.

The residents of these houses over the past two centuries have included Bertha Beatty (nee Creagh), author of Kerry Memories, George Sandes (1821-1897), known as ‘the Terror of North Kerry,’ who lived at Bridge Road, at the side of the Square, and the O’Rahilly family of Celtic scholars and academics, including: Professor Thomas Francis O’Rahilly (1883-1953), a scholar of the Celtic languages; Monsignor Alfred O’Rahilly (1884-1969), President of University College Cork and TD for Cork City (1923-1924); and Dr Cecile O’Rahilly (1894-1980), best-known for her editions and translations of the epic saga Táin Bó Cúailnge. They were first cousins of Michael Joseph O’Rahilly (1875-1916) from Ballylongford, the only leader of the Easter Rising in 1916 to die in action.

Nos 25 to 28 on the Square form an elegant terrace of Victorian houses (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)

Nos 25 to 28 on the Square form an elegant terrace of Victorian houses between the castle grounds and the Listowel Arms Hotel. No 25 and 26 were built in the 1840s as a pair and have interesting round-headed doorcases. The other houses on the terrace were built three decades later in the 1870s.

Bertha Beatty (nee Creagh), author of Kerry Memories, lived at Ivy House or No 24, a 19th century Georgian house beside Listowel Castle. The house, also known as Castle House, was built in the 1820s by a local solicitor, Richard Fitzgerald, who was the land agent of the Earls of Listowel.

The house passed from Richard Fitzgerald’s widow, Elizabeth Agnes FitzGerald (nee Fitzmaurice) to her nephew, Dr Ulysses Fitzmaurice, in 1855. After the Fitzmaurices, the house was owned by the lawyer, Francis Creagh, father of the writer Bertha Beatty, and later it was owned by the O’Connor family.

Today, it houses Seanchaí, the Kerry Literary and Cultural Centre, which opened in 2001. It includes an interactive audio-visual museum on the great writers of North Kerry: John B Keane, Bryan MacMahon, Brendan Kennelly, Maurice Walsh and George Fitzmaurice.

A multi-purpose cultural centre behind the museum was built on the site of the stable attached to the house. This includes a performance area, book and craft shop, restaurant, archival library and reading area. Activities throughout the year include traditional music and singing sessions, visual art exhibitions, literary workshops, lectures and readings, and children’s activities.

Saint John’s closed as a church in 1988 and it now houses Saint John’s Theatre and Arts Centre (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2018)

The Hares of Listowel:
a family that witnessed
major political changes

The arms of the Earls of Listowel … not to be seen at the Listowel Arms Hotel

Patrick Comerford

I was discussing the Listowel Arms Hotel earlier today, and the place of this boutique style hotel in the social and political history of Listowel. The hotel, which I visited earlier this week, has played host to literary figures such as the Victorian writer William Makepeace Thackeray, who recommended the hotel in 1843 in his Irish Sketchbook, and political guests in the 19th century included Daniel O’Connell and Charles Stewart Parnell, who spoke from first floor windows to large crowds gathered below in the Square.

The name of the hotel recalls the Hare family, who have held the title of Earl of Listowel for almost 200 years since 1822, and who were the proprietors of Listowel Castle after they bought the Listowel Estate from the FitzMaurices of Kerry at the end of the 18th century.

Although the actual coat-of-arms of the Earls of Listowel is not displayed at the Listowel Arms Hotel, the story of this family is an interesting one, that moves from opportunism at passage of the Act of Union to socialism and the end of colonialism in the 20th century.

The title of Earl of Listowel in the Irish peerage was given in 1822 to William Hare (1751-1837), 1st Viscount Ennismore and Listowel, who had been an MP in the Irish House of Commons for Cork City and Athy before the Act of Union.

He had already obtained for himself the hereditary titles of Baron Ennismore, of Ennismore in Co Kerry in 1800, and Viscount Ennismore and Listowel, in 1816, also in the Peerage of Ireland.

In 1825, the Limerick-based architect James Pain and his brother, George Richard Pain, designed Convamore Castle for Lord Listowel. The house was one of the first in Ireland to boast large plate glass windows. When Listowel died in 1837, he was buried in Westminster Abbey.

His eldest son and heir, Richard Lysaght Hare (1773-1827), known by the courtesy title of Lord Ennismore, had died in 1827. So, when the first earl died, he was succeeded by his grandson, William Hare (1801-1856), as the second earl. His Irish titles did not give him a seat in the House of Lords, and he sat in the Commons as MP for Kerry (1826-1830) and later for St Albans (1841-1846). He was outspoken in advocating Catholic Emancipation, and Queen Victoria was the godmother of his daughter, Lady Victoria Hare.

William Hare (1833-1924), 3rd Earl of Listowel … a Crimean veteran and Liberal politician

The Irish peerage titles passed to his eldest son, William Hare (1833-1924), as 3rd Earl of Listowel. He was an officer with the Scots Fusiliers Guards in the Crimean War (1854-1856). He was wounded at the Battle of Alma on 30 September 1854, and was invalided back to England by ship. In the 1855 general election, he stood for the Liberal party in Co Cork. He succeeded his father as 3rd Earl of Listowel a year later, but his Irish peerage still did not give him a seat in the House of Lords.

Although the family owned over 20,000 acres in the Listowel area, the Hares never lived at Listowel Castle, close to the Listowel Arms Hotel. The castle had fallen into ruins at the end of the 17th century, and instead the family lived at Convamore Castle, near Ballyhooly, Co Cork.

When it came to giving Lord Listowel a British peerage that gave him a seat in the House of Lords in 1869, he chose the title of Baron Hare of Convamore, Co Cork. He commissioned the new Church of Ireland parish church in Ballyhooly, designed by George Coppinger Ashlin, a pupil of Pugin, and opened in 1870. He was briefly a government whip in the House of Lords (Lord-in-Waiting) in 1880 at the beginning of Gladstone’s second Liberal administration, and also held the largely ceremonial post of Vice-Admiral of Munster.

The Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII, visited Convamore in 1885 as a guest of the family, and planted a magnificent blue cedar that still stands at Convamore.

During the Irish War of Independence, the IRA burned down Convamore in March 1921, claiming Lord Listowel was ‘an aggressively anti-Irish person,’ despite his lifelong Liberal politics and his popularity in Ballyhooly, where he had lived for 60 years. In retaliation, soldiers blew up the Castle Tavern at the crossroads. Convamore was never rebuilt, and its ruins are derelict and abandoned.

When the third earl died in 1924 at the age of 91, he was the second oldest member of the House of Lords at the time. He was succeeded by his son Richard Hare (1866-1931), as 4th Earl of Listowel.

William Francis Hare (1906-1997), 5th Earl of Listowel, better known as Billy Listowel, was a Labour politician who played a key role in Indian and Burmese independence

Perhaps the most colourful Earl of Listowel was his son, William Francis Hare (1906-1997), 5th Earl of Listowel, better known as Billy Listowel. This colourful peer became a socialist when he experienced profound shock on discovering how poor children lived in a slum near his parents’ home in London. He was the last British Secretary of State for India and Burma, and the last Governor-General of Ghana, the last surviving Labour member of Churchill’s war-time coalition government, and the longest-serving member of the House of Lords. He was also the first and only Labour peer to have been the Lord Chairman of Committees.

William Francis Hare born on 28 September 1906, and after his father succeeded as the 4th Earl of Listowel in 1924, he held the courtesy title of Viscount Ennismore.

At Eton, where he was the only known socialist – apart from Hester Alington, wife of the headmaster, the Revd Cyril Alington. He debated with Quintin Hogg, later Lord Hailsham, opposing both the House of Lords and the hereditary principle. Although he held the courtesy title of Viscount Ennismore at the time, he preferred to be known at school as Mr Hare.

From Eton he went up to Balliol College, Oxford, to read Modern Greats. He found a platform at the Oxford Union to express of his political views, and as the socialist heir to an earl he quickly attracted press attention. His father removed him after only a year and asked the Marquess of Willingdon, then Governor-General of Canada, to accept his son as an aide-de-camp.

Eventually, he continued his university education at Magdalene College, Cambridge, where he read English. He went to study at the Sorbonne, and at London University he wrote a doctoral thesis later published as A Critical History of Modern Aesthetics (1933).

Meanwhile, shortly after his father’s death in 1932, Listowel took his seat in the House of Lords, not as Earl of Listowel, which remained an Irish peerage, but as Lord Hare of Convamore. At the time, the small number of Labour peers, led by Lord Ponsonby of Shulbrede, could be accommodated comfortably on two benches. He was also a Labour member of London County Council for East Lewisham from 1937 to 1946.

When World War II broke out in 1939, Billy Listowel volunteered to join the ranks. Because of his poor eyesight, he joined the RAMC, but was selected for Intelligence Corps training. One of his fellow second lieutenants was the philosopher AJ Ayer.

When he was appointed Opposition Chief Whip in 1941, he was released from the forces. Three years later, he became Deputy Leader in the Lords, and Parliamentary Under-Secretary of State at the India Office.

When Labour came to office in 1945 with Clement Attlee’s post-war election victory, Listowel was appointed Postmaster-General, a post he held until April 1947, and was briefly Minister of Information from February to March 1946, when the office was abolished.

Lord Mountbatten was appointed Viceroy of India in 1947, and at his request Listowel became Secretary of State for India. When the India Independence Bill was introduced, Listowel steered it through the House of Lords without amendment. Although he was invited to Balmoral to receive King George VI’s personal thanks for presiding over India’s transition to independence, he received no other honour.

As Secretary of State for India, his duties extended to Burma, and he remained Secretary of State for Burma until independence in 1948. Despite the assassination of Aung San and most of his ministers, the transition to independence moved forward in Burma, with Listowel steering the legislation through the Lords.

His next appointment was as Minister of State for the Colonies, visiting Malaya, Barbados, Jamaica, Trinidad and Tobago, British Guiana, British Honduras, and the Windward and Leeward Islands.

He returned to London County Council as a Labour member for Battersea North from 1952 until 1957, when he was invited by Kwame Nkrumah, the socialist Prime Minister of Ghana, to become Ghana’s Governor-General.

His three years in Ghana were especially happy, and Ghana became an independent republic in the Commonwealth in 1960. Because of a mechanical fault, Listowel’s plane, which was scheduled to leave Ghana two hours before the country became a republic, took off only minutes before the deadline expired, narrowly avoiding a constitutional crisis.

He was Chairman of Committees in the House of Lords from 1965 to 1976, and for many years after he continued to sit on the Woolsack as one of the Lord Chancellor’s Deputy Speakers. He maintained a keen interest in foreign and Commonwealth affairs, human rights and Third World aid. He died in London on 12 March 1997.

The titles are held by his eldest son, the sixth Earl. Lord Listowel is one of the 90 elected hereditary peers who remain in the House of Lords since the House of Lords Act 1999 was passed. He sits as a cross-bencher and is known as an advocate of children’s rights.

Inside the Listowel Arms Hotel … a reminder of an interesting political family