Two churches survive at the Aran Islands’ pilgrim site of the Seven Churches

Saint Breacan’s Church … the principal church at the Seven Churches, a monastic site at the west end of Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Patrick Comerford

During an early morning tour of Inishmore (Inis Mor), the largest of the Aran Islands in Galway Bay, earlier this week, I spent some time at the Seven Churches (Na Seacht Teampaill or Dísert Bhreacáin), near the village of Eoghnacht at the west end of the island.

Although known as the Seven Churches, there are only two churches among the ancient buildings at this site, known for centuries as one of the biggest monastic foundations and centres of pilgrimage on the west coast of Ireland.

The site of the Seven Churches dates from the seventh or eighth century CE. It is one of the earliest pilgrimage sites in Ireland and was once one of the most popular.

Little is known about Saint Breacan, but folklore says his original name was Bresal and that he came from Kilbrecan near Quin, Co Clare, to the Aran Islands in the fifth century. According to a 15th century poem, he expelled a demon called Breacán Cláiringheach (‘deformed’), took his name, and converted the pagan shrine to a Christian monastery.

Inside the Church of Saint Breacan, the main church at the ‘Seven Churches,’ looking east (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Tradition on the island says this complex rivalled Saint Enda’s foundation in the east of the island. These two saints, Saint Enda and Saint Breacan, are said to have agreed eventually to divide the island between them.

Although the site is known as ‘the Seven Churches’ (Na Seacht Teampall), there are in fact only two churches with a number of domestic buildings. Opinions differ on why the site is called ‘Seven Churches.’

The number seven may be derived from the pilgrimage circuit of Rome, involving seven churches, but those tradition was only introduced by Saint Philip Neri in 1553.

Could the name refer, instead, to the seven churches in the Book of Revelation?

Another tradition says the name comes from the graves of seven saints that are marked with Celtic crosses.

Whatever the origin of the name, there are really only two churches on the site. They are surrounded by the traces of a number of smaller monastic dwellings associated with the monastic community.

Inside the Church of Saint Breacan, looking west (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The largest and most complete church still standing on the site, Teampall Bhreacáin (Saint Breacan’s Church), is a large church, measuring 13 metres by 5 metres.

It was built and added to over the years, in a period from the eighth to the 13th century. The oldest section of the church is the north-west corner with one of a pair of projecting antae and large masonry dating from the tenth century.

The church more than doubled in size in the 13th century. The surviving parts of the church today include its fine, massive masonry and ornate stonework, and the nave and chancel separated by an impressive arch.

An inscribed stone in the west gable reads OR AR II CANOIN, or ‘Pray for the two canons.’

Teampall an Phoill or the ‘Church of the Hollow’ is the second church on the site of the ‘Seven Churches’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The second church on the site, Teampall an Phoill (the ‘Church of the Hollow’), is smaller and simpler in style. It is rectangular in shape and dates from the 15th or early 16th century.

The remains of a number of penitential beds are also found on the site, notably Leaba Bhreacáin or Saint Breacan’s Bed and Leaba an Spioraid Naoimh (‘Bed of the Holy Spirit’), and fragments of decorated crosses.

Saint Breacan’s Bed or grave is a small rectangular stone arrangement west of the church. At the west end is the shaft of a richly-carved cross. The east face is covered with inter-lacings; the west face has interlacing towards the base of the shaft, with a sculpture of the figure of Christ above.

Celtic interlacing on the east face of the cross at Saint Breacan’s Bed (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The complex includes many fragments of other 11th century high crosses – possibly up to three crosses – and slabs, some dating back to the 12th century.

Among the inscribed stones and graves in the south-east corner of the site, one is inscribed VII ROMANI or ‘The Seven Romans,’ along with finely carved geometric Celtic designs. The seven Romans are said to be a group of Roman pilgrims who were on pilgrimage to the site.

But other interpretations are possible – including: ‘Who will rescue me from this body of death? Thanks be to God through Jesus Christ our Lord!’ (Romans 7: 24-25).

Another cross is inscribed Tomas AP (‘Thomas the Apostle’).

The west face of the cross at Saint Breacan’s Bed has interlacing towards the base of the shaft, with a sculpture of the figure of Christ above (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Two Holy Wells on the site, Tobar an Spioraid Naoimh and Tobar Bhreacáin, are now enclosed.

The pilgrim tradition survived the Reformation, and in 1607 Pope Pius V granted a plenary indulgence to all who visited the churches on the island on particular holy days.

The graveyard is still used for local burials, and the site offers expansive views across Galway Bay towards the Twelve Pins.

The graveyard at the Seven Churches is still used for local burials (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Inishmore’s unique collection of roadside stone cenotaphs

Dozens of stone memorials or cenotaphs line the roads in Inishmore on the Aran Islands (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Patrick Comerford

All along the main road through Inishmore ( Inis Mór), from east to west on the largest of the Aran Islands, dozens of large cenotaph-like memorials line the roadside.

These Leachtaí Cuimhneacháin or Leachtai Cuimhne or roadside memorials can be seen right across the island. They are often found in groups of three or four, but sometimes they stand on their own, even in the front or side garden of a family home.

In all, there are 28 of these monuments on Inishmore, and the majority date from 1811 to 1892, although the oldest three date from the early 1700s. The largest collection is found along the road from Kilronan, the main island village, east to Killeany (Cill Einne).

The roadside stone pillars are topped by simple crosses, with inscriptions in English, commemorating local families. Each cenotaph has an inscription detailing the family or person commemorated. The family names include O’Flaherty, Dirrane, Hernon, Fitzpatrick, McDonagh, Dirrane, Wiggan, Mullen, Gill, O’Donnell, Naughton, Conneely and Folen.

The roadside stone pillars are topped by simple crosses and have inscriptions in English (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

A local tradition says they commemorate islanders who died in exile or were drowned at sea and so could not be buried at home. Another explanation says they mark the places where funeral processions would pause for prayer on their way to the grave.

But local people enjoy telling naïve visitors and gullible tourists that these are the graves of people who were buried standing upright.

East of Killeany, between the pier and the airstrip, Leacht na nIascaire, the Memorial to the Fishermen, overlooks the bay and commemorates all islanders who were lost at sea.

It was erected in 1998 and initially conceived as memorial to 14 men and boys who were drowned when they were swept from the Glassan Rocks on 15 August 1852 while they were fishing. But since then carved plaques have been added recording the names of all drowned islanders since the early 19th century.

A memorial service is held each year on 15 August at the monument.

The Memorial to the Fishermen overlooking the airstrip at the east end of Inishmore (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)