Climbing one of Bologna’s Two Towers for breath-taking panoramas

Climbing the Asinelli Tower is rewarded with panoramic views across Bologna (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2017)

Patrick Comerford

Climbing the Torre degli Asinelli or Asinelli Tower is an experience every visitor to Bologna seems to want. The tower has stood in the heart of the city for nine centuries, and with its neighbour, the Garisenda Tower, it is a symbol of Bologna. Together, they are known as le Due Torri, the Two Towers.

In the Middle Ages, it is said, Bologna had up to 180 towers. However, more recent estimates put the total number between 80 and 100, and not all towers existed at the same time. They were built both for both prestige and defensive protection. However, as the centuries passed, earthquakes, fires and lightning and town planners lacking vision brought down many of these towers.

The last demolitions of Bologna’s towers were carried out in the 20th century, when the Artenisi Tower and the Riccadonna Tower were demolished in 1917. Fewer than 20 towers can still be seen today.

The Asinelli Tower stands at the Piazza di Porta Ravegnana – the junction of the streets that lead to the five gates of the old city wall. It is 97.2 metres high and the tallest tower still standing in Bologna.

The Asinelli Tower is said to be named after the family that built it in 1109-1119. However, the name of the Asinelli family is documented for the first time only in 1185, at the time of an attempted arson attack, almost 70 years after the family was said to have built the tower.

The Asinelli Tower was originally only 70 metres tall, but it was later raised so it could be used to send luminous warning signals that could be seen in the far distance.

In the 14th century, the Asinelli Tower came into the ownership of the city, and it was used as a prison and a stronghold. During this period a wooden footbridge was built with scaffolding 30 metres above ground, linking the tower with the neighbouring Garisenda Tower.

The Garisenda Tower is leaning visibly, but the Asinelli Tower is a leaning tower too – it leans by 2.23 meters (1.3_°).

Giovanni Visconti, Duke of Milan, wanted to use the towers to suppress possible revolts and to control the turbulent Mercato di Mezzo – today’s Via Rizzoli. The Visconti family had become the rulers of Bologna after the decline of the Signoria of the Pepoli family, but were unpopular in the city. The wooden bridge was destroyed in a fire in 1398.

Later, the Asinelli Tower was used by the scientists Giovanni Battista Riccioli in 1640 and Giovanni Battista Guglielmini in the 18th century for experiments to study the motion of heavy bodies and the rotation of the earth.

Severe damage was caused by lightning that often resulted in small fires and collapses. But the tower survived, and a lightning rod was installed eventually in 1824.

During World War II, the Asinelli Tower was used as a lookout in 1943-1945, with four volunteers on top of the tower directing rescue operations to fires during air raids.

In the 1960s, the architect Minoru Yamasaki was inspired by the Two Towers as he designed the World Trade Center in New York.

The Asinelli Tower and the Garisenda Tower stand side-by-side (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2017)

The neighbouring Garisenda Tower stands at 48 metres. Initially, it was about 60 metres high, but it had to be lowered in the 14th century because the ground below was subsiding and the tower was slanting and dangerous.

The Garisenda Tower is cited several times by Dante in the Divine Comedy and The Rime:

As when one sees the tower called Garisenda
from underneath its leaning side, and then a cloud
passes over and it seems to lean the more,
thus did Antaeus seem to my fixed gaze
as I watched him bend ...

— Dante, Divine Comedy, Inferno, XXXI, 136-140

Never can my eyes make amends to me – short
of going blind – for their great fault,
that they gazed at the Garisenda tower
with its fine view, and – confound them! –
missed her, the worthiest of those
who are talked about.

— Dante, Rime, VIII

The Asinelli Tower recently re-opened after a three-month restoration that focused on strengthening the internal wooden staircases leading to the top and at restyling the rooftop terrace.

To reach the top of the tower, I climbed the 498 steps of its steep wooden staircases one morning last week. For those who tire easily, there are platforms at regular intervals.

The reward at the top is a panoramic view of Bologna spreading out below, with the Piazza Maggiore and the city’s red roofs, towers, churches, domes, palaces, squares, parks, belfries and the univerfsity. To the south are green rolling hills that frame it to the south.

Climbing the 498 steps of the Asinelli Tower (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2017)

‘Guard the people of Zimbabwe from harm. Let justice and compassion prevail’

With Bishop Chad Gandiya of Harare during his visit to Dublin in 2011

Patrick Comerford

Watching President Robert Mugabe’s speech live within the past hour, it seems incredible that he has refused to resign. It is possible that he tried to pull the wool over the eyes of the military leaders who sat beside them, and read his own speech.

It is difficult to understand that a military coup could fail so visibly, with everyone watches, and I wonder how he is going to facedown tomorrow’s move for an impeachment.

Perhaps the generals could not force him to resign, but they have no given him plenty of ground for his impeachment tomorrow.

Many years ago, I was frustrated and angry when I was invited to a lecture in UCD and dinner with President Mugabe. I had campaigned and protested for years on his behalf, joining marches and pickets demanding democracy and freedom in Zimbabwe.

That evening in the Belfield campus of University College Dublin, Mugabe was brusque, arrogant and rude. It was a personal source of curiosity that while the Irish Independent could invite me, as then Foreign Desk Editor of The Irish Times to dinner with Archbishop Desmond Tutu and President Nelson Mandela, my own newspaper was inviting me to meet Robert Mugabe, who had betrayed so much that I had campaigned for.

Over the past week, Anglican leaders in Zimbabwe have reported that the Church and the country are safe following the military takeover that appears to have taken place on Tuesday night.

The Right Revd Chad Gandiya, Bishop of Harare, the capital of Zimbabwe, described what was then though to be the ousting of President Mugabe by the army as ‘one of the most peaceful takeovers anywhere in the world’ and added that ‘people are going about their daily work and chores as if nothing had happened.’

However, Bishop Chad is also urging Christians everywhere to pray for Zimbabwe ‘during these uncertain times.’

The Most Revd Albert Chama, Archbishop of Central Africa, also called for prayer, commenting that ‘this sad situation needs more than a political solution.’

I am a trustee of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel), and have served on its council and committees. USPG is a long-standing partner of the Anglican Church in Zimbabwe, with a relationship that dates back to 1891.

I have known Bishop Chad since he was the USPG Regional Desk Officer for Africa, working from London. He bravely returned to Zimbabwe after his election as Bishop of Harare, despite Mugabe’s efforts to divide the church and his threats of violence.

Later, Bishop Chad gracefully accepted my invitation to preach in the chapel of the Church of Ireland Theological Institute in 2011, to deliver a guest lecture, and to visit Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin.

USPG has prepared the following prayer:

God of peace,
we add our prayers to those of the Church in Zimbabwe.
Into their political upheaval, we ask that peace, love and unity will prevail.
Give wisdom to those in authority.
Guard the people of Zimbabwe from harm.
Let justice and compassion prevail.
And bless your Church as is offers care and preaches hope, tolerance and forgiveness.
In Jesus’ name, we pray. Amen.

These are the statements in full issued by Bishop Chad and Archbishop Chama:

The full statement from the Right Revd Dr Chad N Gandiya, Bishop of the Anglican Diocese of Harare (16.11.2017):

Beloved in Christ, Warm and cordial greetings from your brothers and sisters in the Anglican Diocese of Harare, Zimbabwe.

Political developments of Tuesday night in Zimbabwe have necessitated the writing of this letter to all our friends so that you are informed and know what to pray for as you think and pray for us.

We woke up on Wednesday morning to constant announcement on Zimbabwe TV by one of the army generals that the army had been forced into action to remove ‘criminals’ around the president and that the president and his family were safe, and that their security was guaranteed. He went on to say that they were targeting criminals around the president whose actions were causing social and economic suffering in the country. He also said that the situation would return to normalcy as soon as they had accomplished their mission. Obviously, this was a big shock to most Zimbabweans even though most people believed something was bound to happen sooner rather than later.

The army was in control of the airwaves in the country and had stationed tanks strategically around the city. They asked the nation to remain calm, limit their travels to when it was necessary, such as when going to work. It is true that in last few months we have seen purges in the ruling party, shortages of cash in the banks, and unprecedented [price] increases in basic food commodities among other things.

The situation in the country remains calm but tense and people are going about their daily work and chores as if nothing had happened. We had a clergy workshop in Harare without any disturbances. The diocesan office is open and functioning well. However, we have decided to cancel a big diocesan annual Thanksgiving service that we hold every year to mark our return from exile because we don’t want to take any chances, especially as we would be expecting thousands of our members to travel various distances to attend the important service.

The events in the country are still unfolding. We thank God that so far there is no violence on the streets, the atmosphere remains calm and everything has been done peacefully. I think that this is one of the most peaceful takeovers anywhere in the world!

We are therefore calling on you our friends to join us in praying for Zimbabwe and her people during these uncertain times. Please pray for the following:

Peaceful resolution of the current situation.

As the Army has appealed to the Church, pray for peace, love, unity and development.

Safety of all people in Zimbabwe.

That those arrested be treated humanely and that justice is seen to be done.

That the Church continues to offer pastoral care and preach a message of hope, tolerance, forgiveness and nation building as well as giving wise guidance to all people.

That respect for human rights is valued.

The prayer for Africa is very apt in our situation and so pray:

God bless Zimbabwe.

Guide her leaders.

Guard her people.

And give her peace. Amen!

The full statement from the Most Revd Albert Chama, Archbishop and Primate of the Church of the Province of Central Africa (15.11.2017):

As Primate of the Province of Central Africa and chair of Council of Anglican Provinces in Africa, I write to express our concerns as a Church over the recent political situation in Zimbabwe. We have received messages and calls from the Primates of the Anglican Church worldwide and also from Lambeth Palace assuring us of their prayers.

We are also aware of initiatives by SADC the political blog in the region. However, this sad situation needs more than a political solution. It needs all people of faith to pray, all citizens to engage and ensure a peaceful transition in Zimbabwe.

This call is based on our vision of Christ the prince of peace and the incarnate God who in dwelling with us affirmed the dignity of each one of us and our environment. We want to assure all our parishioners and all Zimbabweans of our prayers and support and hope for calm and stability at this time.