22 April 2019

JJ McCarthy’s church in
Kilmallock has many
Harry Clarke windows

The Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in Kilmallock, Co Limerick … designed by JJ McCarthy and completed by George Coppinger Ashlin (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Patrick Comerford

On the way to Fermoy, Co Cork, recently, two of us stopped to visit the Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, the Roman Catholic parish church in Kilmallock, Co Limerick. Kilmallock is an impressive walled mediaeval town, just a 30-minute drive from both Limerick City and Adare. But it is often overlooked by many visitors.

The church, built in the 1870s and 1880s, stands on a height overlooking the town and has an almost cathedral feel created by its size and its dominant location. This church replaced an earlier church built in 1814 to replace a Penal-era Mass house in the town.

The church has fine mosaics, vibrant stained windows, including windows from the Harry Clarke studios, and it is an important example of Gothic Revival church architecture in Victorian Ireland.

Inside the Gothic Revival church … one of the last designed by James Joseph McCarthy (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The Gothic Revival church was one of the last designed by the architect James Joseph McCarthy (1817-1882), who claimed Pugin’s mantle in Ireland, and was completed by Pugin’s son-in-law, George Coppinger Ashlin (1837-1921).

McCarthy’s other churches in Co Limerick include: Saint Saviour’s Dominican Church, Limerick; Saint Mary’s Church, Rathkeale; Saint Senanus’ Church, Foynes; the Church of the Immaculate Conception, Ballingarry; as well as Cahermoyle House and Croom House.

McCarthy completed Pugin’s work at Maynooth and Saint Mary’s Cathedral in Killarney, and his other cathedrals and churches include Saint Aidan’s Cathedral, Enniscorthy, Co Wexford, Saint Macartan’s Cathedral, Monaghan, the Cathedral of the Assumption, Thurles, Saint Colman’s Cathedral, Cobh, the ‘Twin Churches’ in Wexford, Saint Catherine’s Church, Dublin, the Passionist Church in Mount Argus, Dublin and Saint Michael’s Church, Tipperary.

The liturgical west end of the church in Kilmallock, including the organ loft and rose window (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

His elaborate, monumental church in Kilmallock is of architectural importance, and it is one of the later churches designed by McCarthy. McCarthy is said to have designed the church to harmonise with the ruins of the mediaeval Dominican priory in the town. When he died in 1884, Ashlin became the architect for the church, and it was completed in 1889.

Tenders to build a new church were invited in June 1877, and the foundation stone was laid on 29 June 1879. The contractor was Walsh of Foynes, and the decorative work was completed by Eugene Daly of Cork.

The rose window at the liturgical west end of the church (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The church, which is oriented west/east rather east/west, has a six-bay nave with side aisles, a gable-fronted porch, transepts, a two-bay two-storey sacristy, an inset rose window with carved quatrefoil motifs, timber battened double-leaf doors with wrought-iron strap hinges, and a tall, square-plan four-stage tower with an elegant spire.

Inside, there are pointed arch openings, limestone engaged columns, oculi in the clerestory, stained-glass lancet windows and hood mouldings.

The pillars of the nave are of red marble, on high limestone bases and ornamented with limestone rings (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The pillars of the nave are of red marble, on high limestone bases and ornamented with limestone rings half-way up. They have elaborate, carved capitals and the pointed arches of the nave have linked hood moulds with carved stops.

The fine roof is framed and panelled in pitch pine.

The elaborate ornamentation belies the simple plan, of the church, which has an organ loft, nave and chancel beneath one continuous roof contrasting with the off-centre tower and spire. br />
The High Altar and sanctuary are the work of Edmund Sharp and Ludwig Oppenheimer (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Ashlin’s work in 1887-1893, in 1900, and again in 1910-1911 includes designing the church tower and spire, the benches, the holy water stoup, hinges on the outside doors, the Communion gates, the Baptism Font, the baptistry screens and mosaic work, as well as the High Altar, Communion rail, mosaic pavement, two side altars, a new sacristy, and the tower and spire.

The Crucifixion mosaic by Ludwig Oppenheimer (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The High Altar and interior carvings were the work of Edmund Sharp, and Ludwig Oppenheimer carried out the mosaic work in sanctuary and side chapels, including the striking Crucifixion mosaic with its bright blue sky, ornamented with gold stars.

The present altar was made from the remains of the original altar. The central pinnacle has been retained as a freestanding tabernacle flanked by a pair of dislodged marble angels.

The two-light lancet window with scenes designed by the Harry Clarke studios (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Most of the stained-glass windows were designed by Mayer of Munich and Earley of Dublin. The design of the chancel window was inspired by the chancel or east window in the ruined Dominican priory church.

One pair of lancet windows has stained-glass designed by the Harry Clarke studios, depicting four scenes: on the left the betrothal of Saint Joseph and the Virgin Mary (top) and the Visit of the Magi (below); and on the right the Nativity (top) and the Flight into Egypt (below).

The betrothal of Saint Joseph and the Virgin Mary by the Harry Clarke studios (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The Visit of the Magi by the Harry Clarke studios (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The Nativity by the Harry Clarke studios (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The Flight into Egypt by the Harry Clarke studios (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The five-light window in the Lady Chapel was inspired by the 14th century window in the south transept of the Dominican priory church.

The five-light window in the Lady Chapel (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The Presentation in the Temple by the Harry Clarke studios (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The Coronation of the Virgin Mary by the Harry Clarke studios (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The Harry Clarke Studios also designed two scenes inserted in this window in the Lady Chapel: the Presentation in the Temple, and the Coronation of the Virgin Mary.

The windows commemorating Bishop William Turner of Buffalo (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Among the many other windows in the church, one pair of lancets commemorate William Turner from Kilmallock who became Bishop of Buffalo in New York.

The window depicts Saint Munchin, the patron of the Diocese of Limerick, and Saint William of York, the bishop’s patron. There are images too of Saint John’s Cathedral, York Minster and the Dominican priory in Kilmallock. In the corners are images of the heraldic arms of the dioceses of Limerick and Buffalo.

Father Thomas Downes is buried in front of the High Altar (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Father Thomas Downes (1841-1890), the parish priest who was the driving force behind building this church is buried in front of the High Altar.

This church remains an important component of the townscape of Kilmallock, and it stands out against the skyline and the surrounding landscape because of its elegant tower and spire.

Kilmallock is one of the mediaeval walled towns of Ireland (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The Governor’s House is
an unusual survivor from
Nenagh’s prison complex

The octagonal-plan three-storey Governor’s House in Nenagh … designed by the Dublin architect John Benjamin Keane (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Patrick Comerford

The Governor’s House on O’Rahilly Street must be the most unusual building in Nenagh, Co Tipperary. This significant part of the Nenagh’s prison complex was designed by the Dublin architect John Benjamin Keane, who also designed the town’s courthouse.

With sad irony, the latter years of Keane’s career appear to have been blighted by alcoholism. The man who designed the Governor’s House, prison and courthouse in Nenagh, fell into debt and was imprisoned in the Marshalsea gaol. He died on 7 October 1859.

This is detached, octagonal-plan three-storey house, built for the prison governor in 1840-1842, with a raised basement a single-bay entrance elevation. The other seven sides have two-bay elevations. The Governor’s House stood in the centre of a prison complex, with buildings radiating out from it in a pattern that reflected the octagonal shape of the house.

The windows on the ground floor are barred and round-headed, and the rest of the windows are square-headed. There is a timber panelled double-leaf door with fixed sidelights, flanked by cut limestone pilasters, fascia and cornice, and approached by a flight of steps. The timber battened door at the east face has a fanlight and a flight of steps. The building retains many other original features, including timber sash windows and a cast-iron weather vane.

Today, the North Tipperary Genealogy Centre is located in the Governor’s House, and provides a family history research service for people tracing Irish ancestors who originated in North Tipperary.

It also houses of the Nenagh Heritage Centre and Museum. The exhibits includes a model of the North Tipperary Gaol, a recreated schoolroom from 1913 Ireland, a recreation of the original kitchen from the North Tipperary Gaol, and an Irish dairy that shows the stages of butter-making and the various utensils used in Irish farming life.

The Heritage Centre Gallery houses rotating art, craft, photography and information exhibitions from the Tipperary area.

The Gatehouse was built in the style of a classical triumphal arch (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The Governor’s House is approached through the Gatehouse, built around 1840, almost in the style of a classical triumphal arch as part of the prison complex. It has triangular bastions instead of flanking arches and it is only when you look closely that you see it was also used as a dwelling. Local tradition says prisoners were once hanged from this arch.

Condemned cells in the Gatehouse held prisoners who were sentenced to death by hanging. Between 1842 and 1858, 17 Tipperary men were executed here.

Shortly after the prison closed in 1887, it was taken over by the local Tipperary branch of the Sisters of Mercy for educational purposes. Earlier, behind the Gatehouse and the Governor’s House, the Sisters of Mercy Convent was built in 1859-1861. It was first designed by AWN Pugin’s son, Edward Welby Pugin (1834-1875), who designed a three-storey addition containing a chapel, community room and dining room.

Later, the Limerick architect, Joseph P O’Malley (1867-1933), designed a new convent that was built in 1911-1913 at a cost of about £10,000.

Joseph O’Malley was the youngest of the 12 children of Michael O’Malley, a farmer, and his wife, Kate Fleming O’Malley (1820-1901), into a family associated with the Round House in the centre of Limerick for generations.

Kate Fleming O’Malley was the matriarch of the family. Her four daughters became nuns, while the rest of her family and her descendants included three Irish government ministers, Donough O’Malley, the legendary Minister for Education, Des O’Malley, founded of the Progressive Democrats, and Tim O’Malley; two Mayors of Limerick, Dessie and Michael B O’Malley; and two other Limerick Corporation members, Patrick O’Malley and his son Charlie. Kate’s granddaughter, the writer and educator Dr Pamela O’Malley (1929-2006), moved to Barcelona in 1952, was imprisoned twice in Spain by Franco’s regime.

Joseph O’Malley was born in Murroe, Co Limerick, in 1867. He had BA and BE degrees and became an assistant county surveyor for Co Limerick, engineer to the Limerick Board of Guardians, engineer to Limerick No 2 District Council, and architect to Limerick District Lunatic Asylum.

He married Mary Egan of Pery Square, Limerick, in 1896. She died the following year after the birth of a daughter. He later married Mary Tooher and they had nine children. Their youngest child, Donogh O’Malley, was Minister for Education in the late 1960s.

O’Malley also had a busy private practice in Limerick, working mainly with Catholic churches and convents, as well as domestic work in Limerick, Clare, Cork, Kerry and Tipperary. He was in partnership with Horace Tennyson O’Rourke in 1908-1910. He died in Corbally, Co Limerick, in 1933.

The Sisters of Mercy Convent in Nenagh … designed by Edward Welby Pugin and Joseph O’Malley (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

O’Malley’s U-plan, two-storey convent in Nenagh has an 11-bay front elevation with an entrance breakfront and advanced terminating bays with two-storey returns to the rear. There is a cruciform-plan chapel at the north end and a recent single-bay extension at the south.

The convent is built on the site of the former women’s prison and stands among the remaining prison buildings.

Stations of the Cross in the grounds of the Sisters of Mercy Convent in Nenagh (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)