Bryce House at the east end of Garnish Island … my illustration for February in the 2025 calendar produced in Glengarriff, Co Cork (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Patrick Comerford
February began today, and at the beginning of the month, as I turned the pages of a calendar, I was reminded of my visit to Garnish Island in June 2021. It was a road trip or ‘staycation’ as the Covid-19 pandemic travel restrictions were being eased, and it included three stopovers: two nights each in Dingle, Co Kerry, the West Cork Hotel in Skibbereen and Casey’s Hotel Glengarriff on the Beara Peninsula in West Cork.
It was also a three-island road holiday, with visits to the Great Blasket Island, Cape Clear Island, and then, from Glengarriff, to Garinish Island.
Glengarriff is about 20 km west of Bantry and 30 km east of Castletownbere, and the economy is heavily dependent on tourism. It is the gateway to the Beara Peninsula, connecting Bantry and Kenmare and there is a variety of shops, galleries, hotels, restaurants and pubs.
During that stay in Glengarriff, I took the Harbour Queen ferry from Glengarriff Pier on 18 June 2021 to visit Garnish Island in Bantry Bay. Garnish Island extends to 15 hectares (37 acres) and is also known by the alternative names of Garinish Island, Ilnacullin and Illaunacullin (‘island of holly’).
The island is renowned for its gardens, laid out in beautiful walks and it has specimen plants that are rare in this climate. The ferry trip came close to seal island, with its tame seal colony, and offered a sighting of an eagle’s nest.
It was my first and – so far – my only visit to the island. But now, four years later, one of my photographs on the island has been used to illustrate the month of February in a calendar for 2025 produced in Glengarriff by Deirdre Goyvaerts as a fundraiser, with the proceeds going to a local school, Scoil Fhiachna National School.
Garnish Island owes its present attractive presentation to John Annan Bryce (1841-1923), a Belfast-born Scottish politician who bought the island from the War Office in 1910, and his wife Violet L’Estrange. John Bryce and the architect and garden designer Harold Peto (1854-1933) were a creative partnership, and left us with an island that is now renowned for its gardens and buildings and the richness of plant form and colour that changes continuously with the seasons.
Bryce House, the gardens and the island have been open to the public since 2015 and are cared for the Office of Public Works.
The Goyvaerts family came to Glengarriff almost 60 years ago when Deirdre’s grandparents, Theo and Maria Goyvaerts moved from Belgium with their 11 children in 1965. Now, 60 years later, Deirdre Goyvaerts has assembled a collection of 12 photographs by seven photographers for her Garnish Island Calendar 2025, which also tells the story of Bryace House and the island.
My photograph of Bryce House is her chosen image for this month (February 2025), and also appears in the collage of photographs on the back of the calendar. The other photographs are by: Chris Hill (January, April, June, July and December), Robert Harding (March), Katharina Scnitzer (May, August), Lyne Media (September), Eoin Fealy (October) and Tim Squire (November).
The Garnish Calendar 2025 is produced by Deirdre Goyvaerts and sells at €10. It is available in most shops in Glengarriff.
Showing posts with label Bantry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bantry. Show all posts
01 February 2025
18 June 2024
An island photograph
illustrates February
in a calendar from
Glengarriff for 2025
Bryce House at the east end of Garnish Island … my illustration for February 2025 in a new calendar produced in Glengarriff, Co Cork (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Patrick Comerford
It is three years since I visited Garnish Island in 2021 during a road trip or ‘staycation’ that included three stopovers: two nights each in Dingle, Co Kerry, the West Cork Hotel in Skibbereen and Casey’s Hotel Glengarriff on the Beara Peninsula in West Cork.
It was also a three-island road holiday, with visits to the Great Blasket Island, Cape Clear Island, and then, from Glengarriff, to Garinish Island.
Glengarriff is about 20 km west of Bantry and 30 km east of Castletownbere, and the economy is heavily dependent on tourism. It is the gateway to the Beara Peninsula, connecting Bantry and Kenmare and there is a variety of shops, galleries, hotels, restaurants and pubs.
During that stay in Glengarriff, I took the Harbour Queen ferry from Glengarriff Pier on 18 June 2021 to visit Garnish Island in Bantry Bay. Garnish Island extends to 15 hectares (37 acres) and is also known by the alternative names of Garinish Island, Ilnacullin and Illaunacullin (‘island of holly’).
The island is renowned for its gardens, laid out in beautiful walks and it has specimen plants that are rare in this climate. The ferry trip came close to seal island, with its tame seal colony, and offered a sighting of an eagle’s nest.
It was my first and – so far – my only visit to the island. But now, three years later, in June 2024, one of my photographs on the island has been used in a calendar for 2025 produced in Glengarriff by Deirdre Goyvaerts as a fundraiser, with the proceeds going to a local school, Scoil Fhiachna National School.
Garnish Island owes its present attractive presentation to John Annan Bryce, (1841-1923) a Belfast-born Scottish politician who bought the island from the War Office in 1910, and his wife Violet L’Estrange. John Bryce and the architect and garden designer Harold Peto (1854-1933) were a creative partnership, and left us with an island that is now renowned for its gardens and buildings and the richness of plant form and colour that changes continuously with the seasons.
Bryce House, the gardens and the island have been open to the public since 2015 and are cared for the Office of Public Works.
The Goyvaerts family came to Glengarriff almost 60 years ago when Deirdre’s grandparents, Theo and Maria Goyvaerts moved from Belgium with their 11 children in 1965. Deirdre Goyvaerts has assembled a collection of 12 photographs by seven photographers for her Garnish Island Calendar 2025, which also tells the story of Bryace House and the island.
My photograph of Bryce House is her chosen image for February 2025, and also appears in the collage of photographs on the back of the calendar. The other photographs are by: Chris Hill (January, April, June, July and December), Robert Harding (March), Katharina Scnitzer (May, August), Lyne Media (September), Eoin Fealy (October) and Tim Squire (November).
The Garnish Calendar 2025 is produced by Deirdre Goyvaerts and sells at €10. It is available in most shops in Glengarriff.
Patrick Comerford
It is three years since I visited Garnish Island in 2021 during a road trip or ‘staycation’ that included three stopovers: two nights each in Dingle, Co Kerry, the West Cork Hotel in Skibbereen and Casey’s Hotel Glengarriff on the Beara Peninsula in West Cork.
It was also a three-island road holiday, with visits to the Great Blasket Island, Cape Clear Island, and then, from Glengarriff, to Garinish Island.
Glengarriff is about 20 km west of Bantry and 30 km east of Castletownbere, and the economy is heavily dependent on tourism. It is the gateway to the Beara Peninsula, connecting Bantry and Kenmare and there is a variety of shops, galleries, hotels, restaurants and pubs.
During that stay in Glengarriff, I took the Harbour Queen ferry from Glengarriff Pier on 18 June 2021 to visit Garnish Island in Bantry Bay. Garnish Island extends to 15 hectares (37 acres) and is also known by the alternative names of Garinish Island, Ilnacullin and Illaunacullin (‘island of holly’).
The island is renowned for its gardens, laid out in beautiful walks and it has specimen plants that are rare in this climate. The ferry trip came close to seal island, with its tame seal colony, and offered a sighting of an eagle’s nest.
It was my first and – so far – my only visit to the island. But now, three years later, in June 2024, one of my photographs on the island has been used in a calendar for 2025 produced in Glengarriff by Deirdre Goyvaerts as a fundraiser, with the proceeds going to a local school, Scoil Fhiachna National School.
Garnish Island owes its present attractive presentation to John Annan Bryce, (1841-1923) a Belfast-born Scottish politician who bought the island from the War Office in 1910, and his wife Violet L’Estrange. John Bryce and the architect and garden designer Harold Peto (1854-1933) were a creative partnership, and left us with an island that is now renowned for its gardens and buildings and the richness of plant form and colour that changes continuously with the seasons.
Bryce House, the gardens and the island have been open to the public since 2015 and are cared for the Office of Public Works.
The Goyvaerts family came to Glengarriff almost 60 years ago when Deirdre’s grandparents, Theo and Maria Goyvaerts moved from Belgium with their 11 children in 1965. Deirdre Goyvaerts has assembled a collection of 12 photographs by seven photographers for her Garnish Island Calendar 2025, which also tells the story of Bryace House and the island.
My photograph of Bryce House is her chosen image for February 2025, and also appears in the collage of photographs on the back of the calendar. The other photographs are by: Chris Hill (January, April, June, July and December), Robert Harding (March), Katharina Scnitzer (May, August), Lyne Media (September), Eoin Fealy (October) and Tim Squire (November).
The Garnish Calendar 2025 is produced by Deirdre Goyvaerts and sells at €10. It is available in most shops in Glengarriff.
30 April 2022
Praying with the Psalms in Easter:
30 April 2022 (Psalm 66)
‘Sing the glory of his name; give to him glorious praise’ or Sing forth the honour of his name, Make his praise glorious’ (Psalm 66: 2) … a stained glass window in Saint Brendan’s Church, Bantry, Co Cork (1917) by James Watson & Co, Youghal (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Patrick Comerford
During this season of Easter, I am reflecting each morning on the Psalms, and in this Prayer Diary on my blog each morning I am reflecting in these ways:
1, Short reflections on a psalm or psalms;
2, reading the psalm or psalms;
3, a prayer from the USPG prayer diary.
Psalm 66:
Psalm 66 is a psalm of thanksgiving, probably intended for use at the Passover. In the variation in numbering in the Greek Septuagint and Latin Vulgate, this is known as Psalm 65.
Psalm 66 is divided into two parts:
1, verses 1-12: the community praises God and invites the whole world to join in praise;
2, verses 13-20: an individual from the rescued community fulfils a vow to offer a sacrifice of thanksgiving.
This psalm tells us that all the earth, and not just Israel, is invited to praise God, who is ‘awesome in his deeds’ (verse 2) and who is ‘wonderful’ in ‘his dealings’ with humanity. The psalmist recalls the Exodus, and how the people crossed the Red Sea and the River Jordan on foot. God keeps watch over ‘the nations,’ so they should not rebel against him.
God preserves us in life and protects us. In the past, he has tested us and purified as silver is purified. Israel has been subjugated by other people, which may be a reference to exile not only in Egypt but also in Babylon. Yet, after being tested by fire and water, God has brought them to freedom and liberty again.
[Come and see] ‘what God hath wrought’ was the first message sent by telegraph in 1844. The verse was suggested by Annie Ellsworth and inspired by Psalm 66: 5 and Psalm 66: 16.
Standing in the chamber of the US Supreme Court, Samuel B Morse sent a 19-letter message to his assistant Albert Vail in Baltimore, who transmitted the message back. Psalm 66: 5 was sent as ‘what God hath wrought’ (‘Come and see what God has done’), while Psalm 66:16 was the reply: ‘Come and see what God has done for me’ (‘Come and hear, all you who fear God, and I will tell what he has done for me’).
‘Be joyful in God, all the earth; sing the glory of his name; sing the glory of his praise’ (Psalm 66: 1) … at the mouth of the river in Messonghi, Corfu (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Psalm 66 (NRSVA):
To the leader. A Song. A Psalm.
1 Make a joyful noise to God, all the earth;
2 sing the glory of his name;
give to him glorious praise.
3 Say to God, ‘How awesome are your deeds!
Because of your great power, your enemies cringe before you.
4 All the earth worships you;
they sing praises to you,
sing praises to your name.’
Selah
5 Come and see what God has done:
he is awesome in his deeds among mortals.
6 He turned the sea into dry land;
they passed through the river on foot.
There we rejoiced in him,
7 who rules by his might for ever,
whose eyes keep watch on the nations—
let the rebellious not exalt themselves.
Selah
8 Bless our God, O peoples,
let the sound of his praise be heard,
9 who has kept us among the living,
and has not let our feet slip.
10 For you, O God, have tested us;
you have tried us as silver is tried.
11 You brought us into the net;
you laid burdens on our backs;
12 you let people ride over our heads;
we went through fire and through water;
yet you have brought us out to a spacious place.
13 I will come into your house with burnt-offerings;
I will pay you my vows,
14 those that my lips uttered
and my mouth promised when I was in trouble.
15 I will offer to you burnt-offerings of fatlings,
with the smoke of the sacrifice of rams;
I will make an offering of bulls and goats.
Selah
16 Come and hear, all you who fear God,
and I will tell what he has done for me.
17 I cried aloud to him,
and he was extolled with my tongue.
18 If I had cherished iniquity in my heart,
the Lord would not have listened.
19 But truly God has listened;
he has given heed to the words of my prayer.
20 Blessed be God,
because he has not rejected my prayer
or removed his steadfast love from me.
Today’s Prayer:
The theme in this week’s prayer diary of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel) is ‘Logging in the Solomon Islands,’ and was introduced on Sunday morning by Brother Christopher John SSF, Minister General of the Society of Saint Francis.
The USPG Prayer Diary this morning (30 April 2022) invites us to pray:
We give thanks for the work of the United Nations and pray for more urgent action on climate change and other important issue from the international community.
Yesterday’s reflection
Continued tomorrow
Scripture quotations are from the New Revised Standard Version Bible: Anglicised Edition copyright © 1989, 1995, National Council of the Churches of Christ in the United States of America. Used by permission. All rights reserved worldwide. http://nrsvbibles.org
Patrick Comerford
During this season of Easter, I am reflecting each morning on the Psalms, and in this Prayer Diary on my blog each morning I am reflecting in these ways:
1, Short reflections on a psalm or psalms;
2, reading the psalm or psalms;
3, a prayer from the USPG prayer diary.
Psalm 66:
Psalm 66 is a psalm of thanksgiving, probably intended for use at the Passover. In the variation in numbering in the Greek Septuagint and Latin Vulgate, this is known as Psalm 65.
Psalm 66 is divided into two parts:
1, verses 1-12: the community praises God and invites the whole world to join in praise;
2, verses 13-20: an individual from the rescued community fulfils a vow to offer a sacrifice of thanksgiving.
This psalm tells us that all the earth, and not just Israel, is invited to praise God, who is ‘awesome in his deeds’ (verse 2) and who is ‘wonderful’ in ‘his dealings’ with humanity. The psalmist recalls the Exodus, and how the people crossed the Red Sea and the River Jordan on foot. God keeps watch over ‘the nations,’ so they should not rebel against him.
God preserves us in life and protects us. In the past, he has tested us and purified as silver is purified. Israel has been subjugated by other people, which may be a reference to exile not only in Egypt but also in Babylon. Yet, after being tested by fire and water, God has brought them to freedom and liberty again.
[Come and see] ‘what God hath wrought’ was the first message sent by telegraph in 1844. The verse was suggested by Annie Ellsworth and inspired by Psalm 66: 5 and Psalm 66: 16.
Standing in the chamber of the US Supreme Court, Samuel B Morse sent a 19-letter message to his assistant Albert Vail in Baltimore, who transmitted the message back. Psalm 66: 5 was sent as ‘what God hath wrought’ (‘Come and see what God has done’), while Psalm 66:16 was the reply: ‘Come and see what God has done for me’ (‘Come and hear, all you who fear God, and I will tell what he has done for me’).
‘Be joyful in God, all the earth; sing the glory of his name; sing the glory of his praise’ (Psalm 66: 1) … at the mouth of the river in Messonghi, Corfu (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Psalm 66 (NRSVA):
To the leader. A Song. A Psalm.
1 Make a joyful noise to God, all the earth;
2 sing the glory of his name;
give to him glorious praise.
3 Say to God, ‘How awesome are your deeds!
Because of your great power, your enemies cringe before you.
4 All the earth worships you;
they sing praises to you,
sing praises to your name.’
Selah
5 Come and see what God has done:
he is awesome in his deeds among mortals.
6 He turned the sea into dry land;
they passed through the river on foot.
There we rejoiced in him,
7 who rules by his might for ever,
whose eyes keep watch on the nations—
let the rebellious not exalt themselves.
Selah
8 Bless our God, O peoples,
let the sound of his praise be heard,
9 who has kept us among the living,
and has not let our feet slip.
10 For you, O God, have tested us;
you have tried us as silver is tried.
11 You brought us into the net;
you laid burdens on our backs;
12 you let people ride over our heads;
we went through fire and through water;
yet you have brought us out to a spacious place.
13 I will come into your house with burnt-offerings;
I will pay you my vows,
14 those that my lips uttered
and my mouth promised when I was in trouble.
15 I will offer to you burnt-offerings of fatlings,
with the smoke of the sacrifice of rams;
I will make an offering of bulls and goats.
Selah
16 Come and hear, all you who fear God,
and I will tell what he has done for me.
17 I cried aloud to him,
and he was extolled with my tongue.
18 If I had cherished iniquity in my heart,
the Lord would not have listened.
19 But truly God has listened;
he has given heed to the words of my prayer.
20 Blessed be God,
because he has not rejected my prayer
or removed his steadfast love from me.
Today’s Prayer:
The theme in this week’s prayer diary of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel) is ‘Logging in the Solomon Islands,’ and was introduced on Sunday morning by Brother Christopher John SSF, Minister General of the Society of Saint Francis.
The USPG Prayer Diary this morning (30 April 2022) invites us to pray:
We give thanks for the work of the United Nations and pray for more urgent action on climate change and other important issue from the international community.
Yesterday’s reflection
Continued tomorrow
Scripture quotations are from the New Revised Standard Version Bible: Anglicised Edition copyright © 1989, 1995, National Council of the Churches of Christ in the United States of America. Used by permission. All rights reserved worldwide. http://nrsvbibles.org
12 July 2021
The island oratory at
Gougane Barra linked
with Saint Finbarr
Saint Finbarr’s Oratory, a small, picturesque chapel on the island in Gougane Barra (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Patrick Comerford
As last month’s week-long ‘road-trip’ or ‘staycation in Kerry and West Cork was coming to a close, two of us decided to return from Glengarriff to Askeaton through Gougane Barra in the Shehy Mountains in Co Cork.
This is an area of outstanding natural beauty, a place of pilgrimage associated with Saint Finbarr, and a pretty and popular location for wedding photographs.
The large valley and lake are enclosed by the sheer rock faces of mountains that rise to 370 metres from the base. The valley was carved out in the last Ice Age by a glacier, and the lake gives the optical impression of great depth. Gougane Beara is also the source of the River Lee that makes its way from the lake to Cork Harbour.
Gougane Barra (Guagán Barra, ‘the Rock of Barra’), west of Macroom and about 20 km north of the head of Bantry Bay, is off the road between Bantry and Macroom. The place takes its name from Saint Finbarr.
The valley was carved out in the last Ice Age by a glacier (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Tradition says Saint Finbarr built his monastery on the island in the lake in the sixth century, giving the area its name. Today, a small, picturesque chapel on the island is named after Saint Finbarr, although there are no surviving remains from the original monastery.
Legend says Saint Finbarr was guided by an angel to Gougane Barra to set up his cell. When he arrived, the lake was occupied by an enormous serpent, called Lú who, until then, had it all to himself. He resented the saint’s arrival and on one occasion arose and tore the chalice from his hands as he was celebrating Mass.
Saint Finbarr summoned Lú from the depths, and banished him forever from the lake. Lú left, thrashing his giant tail and such was his anger and strength that he carved a deep valley as he went. The water from the lake flowed into the valley and so the River Lee was formed.
Saint Finbarr established a monastic settlement on the island in the sixth century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Saint Finbarr was born ca 550 AD in Connaught, and baptised Lóchán. He was educated at Kilmacahil, Kilkenny, where the monks named him Fionnbharra (‘fair head’) because of his light hair.
He went on pilgrimage to Rome with some of the monks, who visited Saint David in Wales on the way back. On another visit to Rome, it is said, the Pope wanted to consecrate him a bishop but was deterred by a vision, telling the pope that God had reserved that honour to himself. Finbarr was consecrated from heaven and then returned to Ireland.
For a while, he lived as a hermit on a small island at Gougane Barry. For the last 17 years of his life, he lived on marshes at the mouth of the River Lee. His monastery there attracted many disciples, and is now the site of Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral.
Supposedly the sun did not set for two weeks after he died ca 623 on his way back to Cork from Gougane Barra. He is the Patron Saint of Cork, and his Feast Day is 25 September.
The ruins of Father Denis O’Mahony’s site remain a focus during pilgrimages (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Nothing survives of Saint Finbarr’s monastic buildings. But the small island in the lake is home to the small, picturesque Saint Finbarr’s Oratory, built in the early 20th century, and the ruins of an earlier site founded around 1700 by Father Denis O’Mahony.
The remains of the monastery or retreat built by Father O’Mahony in honour of Saint Finbarr include a number of cell structures and a cross. It is said one of these cells belonged to Saint Finbarr, but there is no evidence to support this. Gougane Barra’s remote location at the time made it a popular place for Penal-era Masses and pilgrimages.
The oratory on the island dates from 1901-1903. It is known for its picturesque location and its richly decorated interior, and it has an important place in the history of the Arts and Crafts Movement in Ireland.
The present oratory was the vision of Father Patrick Hurley and was designed by Samuel F Hynes (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
The vision for the present oratory was developed by Father Patrick Hurley, who also developed the ‘ancient’ monastic settlement on the island. A scholarly priest, versed in the Revivalist art and literature of the period, he specified that the oratory should be built in a mix of Hiberno-Romanesque and Byzantine styles, with details based on 12th century Irish churches such as Cormac’s Chapel on the Rock of Cashel.
Hurley financed the oratory through two wealthy Irish-Americans, and was officially opened on the Feast of the Assumption, 15 August 1901.
The architect was Samuel F Hynes of Cork, and the interior decoration was designed by Michael Buckley of Youghal, Co Cork, and Bruges, Belgium.
Many details of the oratory were inspired by Cormac’s Chapel on the Rock of Cashel (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
The architect Samuel Francis Hynes (1854-1931) was born into an old Cork family. From 1869, he was a pupil of William Atkins in Cork five years. He then travelled on Continental Europe before setting up his own practice in Cork in 1875. Two of his early designs were for the chapel of the Convent of Mercy, Bantry, and the De Vesci Memorial in Abbeyleix.
Hynes practised from South Mall, Cork, for over 40 years. The greater part of his commissions came from the Catholic Church and religious orders. He was part of a wider group of late 19th century architects commissioned to create new symbolism for an increasingly confident Catholic Church. He retired in 1929 and died in 1931.
The walls of the oratory are of mountain stone, relieved by dressings of limestone. The roof, like Cormac’s Chapel. was originally of stone, necessitated by the heavy rains that prevail in mountain districts.
Inside the oratory … the interior was designed by Michael Buckley of Youghal (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Inside is an elegant barrel-vaulted, a freestanding altar, important stained-glass windows, intricate stone carvings, and only four rows of small pews.
The altar, furnishings and stained-glass windows were designed by Michael Joseph Cunningham Buckley (1847-1905), an antiquarian and designer of church furnishings, who worked out of London, Youghal, Co Cork, and Bruges in Belgium, from the 1860s until his death.
Buckley was a son of John George Buckley, of Carrick-on-Suir, Co Tipperary. When John Buckley was emigrating to Newfoundland as a young man, he was captured by a French privateer and taken as a prisoner to France, where he was held for some time.
The intricately-carved altar in the oratory, with Celtic motifs (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Michael Buckley was born in Cahir, Co Tipperary, in 1847 or 1848, and educated at Mount Melleray Abbey, Cappoquin, Co Waterford, and in Louvain. He became a partner in the firm of Cox and Buckley, ecclesiastical art manufacturers in London, in 1881.
However, when Cox and Buckley failed, Buckley suffered severe financial losses. He returned to Ireland and set up a stained glass and metal works in Youghal. He was also an agent and designer for the Decorative Arts Guild of Bruges.
Buckley’s other works include the design and installation in Carlow Cathedral in 1899 of the Bishop Michael Comerford Memorial Pulpit, the work of Peter de Wispelaere of Bruges, and the oak stalls in Saint Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Buckley had a particular interest in ecclesiastical art and architecture, and contributed regularly to arts, antiquarian, historical and archaeological journals.
Buckley was about to bring some Belgian art workers to Youghal when he died in Youghal in 1905. His firm was taken over around 1903 or 1904 by James Watson & Co of Youghal, who completed the oratory in Gougane Barra.
Saint Finbarr in a Watson window in the oratory (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Apart from a Marian image, all the windows in the oratory depict Irish saints, some of whom are local to Cork: Saint Finbarr, Saint Ita, Saint Brendan, Saint Fachtna, Saint Gobnet and Saint Eltin.
The beauty and location of the oratory have made it such a popular venue for weddings and wedding photographs, with a waiting list for weddings that is years long. Saint Finbarr’s Oratory is the final destination for one of the five Pilgrim Paths of Ireland, Saint Finbarr’s Pilgrim Path, which starts 35 km away in Drimoleague.
Until the 1930s, the area was given over to smallholdings. The farmers were relocated and Coilte (the Department of Forestry) began developing Gougane Barra in 1938 as a commercial forest. They planted Lodgepole pine, Japanese larch and Sitka spruce the only species that would survive on the poor soil. Here too is a large number of native species of flora and fauna.
Gougane Barra is the final destination on Saint Finbarr’s Pilgrim Path (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Today, Gougane Barra Park has 5 km of roads and 10 km of hiking and biking trails. There are six different walking trails in the forest park, varying in length and difficulty, although none is exceptionally long. A looped trail offers views of the valley and the surrounding countryside.
Even the eye-catching thatched public toilet tucked away in the forest park but close to the church has made its own reputation. It won the prize for the top toilet in Ireland in 2002, and it is listed in the Lonely Planet guidebooks among the most memorable outdoor public lavatories in the world.
The learning associated with Saint Finbarr gives rise to a popular Irish saying, Ionad Bairre Sgoil na Mumhan, ‘Finbarr’s foundation, the School of Munster.’ A version of this is the motto of University College Cork, ‘Where Finbarr taught let Munster learn.’
Even the eye-catching thatched public toilet at Gougane Barra is a prize winner (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Patrick Comerford
As last month’s week-long ‘road-trip’ or ‘staycation in Kerry and West Cork was coming to a close, two of us decided to return from Glengarriff to Askeaton through Gougane Barra in the Shehy Mountains in Co Cork.
This is an area of outstanding natural beauty, a place of pilgrimage associated with Saint Finbarr, and a pretty and popular location for wedding photographs.
The large valley and lake are enclosed by the sheer rock faces of mountains that rise to 370 metres from the base. The valley was carved out in the last Ice Age by a glacier, and the lake gives the optical impression of great depth. Gougane Beara is also the source of the River Lee that makes its way from the lake to Cork Harbour.
Gougane Barra (Guagán Barra, ‘the Rock of Barra’), west of Macroom and about 20 km north of the head of Bantry Bay, is off the road between Bantry and Macroom. The place takes its name from Saint Finbarr.
The valley was carved out in the last Ice Age by a glacier (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Tradition says Saint Finbarr built his monastery on the island in the lake in the sixth century, giving the area its name. Today, a small, picturesque chapel on the island is named after Saint Finbarr, although there are no surviving remains from the original monastery.
Legend says Saint Finbarr was guided by an angel to Gougane Barra to set up his cell. When he arrived, the lake was occupied by an enormous serpent, called Lú who, until then, had it all to himself. He resented the saint’s arrival and on one occasion arose and tore the chalice from his hands as he was celebrating Mass.
Saint Finbarr summoned Lú from the depths, and banished him forever from the lake. Lú left, thrashing his giant tail and such was his anger and strength that he carved a deep valley as he went. The water from the lake flowed into the valley and so the River Lee was formed.
Saint Finbarr established a monastic settlement on the island in the sixth century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Saint Finbarr was born ca 550 AD in Connaught, and baptised Lóchán. He was educated at Kilmacahil, Kilkenny, where the monks named him Fionnbharra (‘fair head’) because of his light hair.
He went on pilgrimage to Rome with some of the monks, who visited Saint David in Wales on the way back. On another visit to Rome, it is said, the Pope wanted to consecrate him a bishop but was deterred by a vision, telling the pope that God had reserved that honour to himself. Finbarr was consecrated from heaven and then returned to Ireland.
For a while, he lived as a hermit on a small island at Gougane Barry. For the last 17 years of his life, he lived on marshes at the mouth of the River Lee. His monastery there attracted many disciples, and is now the site of Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral.
Supposedly the sun did not set for two weeks after he died ca 623 on his way back to Cork from Gougane Barra. He is the Patron Saint of Cork, and his Feast Day is 25 September.
The ruins of Father Denis O’Mahony’s site remain a focus during pilgrimages (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Nothing survives of Saint Finbarr’s monastic buildings. But the small island in the lake is home to the small, picturesque Saint Finbarr’s Oratory, built in the early 20th century, and the ruins of an earlier site founded around 1700 by Father Denis O’Mahony.
The remains of the monastery or retreat built by Father O’Mahony in honour of Saint Finbarr include a number of cell structures and a cross. It is said one of these cells belonged to Saint Finbarr, but there is no evidence to support this. Gougane Barra’s remote location at the time made it a popular place for Penal-era Masses and pilgrimages.
The oratory on the island dates from 1901-1903. It is known for its picturesque location and its richly decorated interior, and it has an important place in the history of the Arts and Crafts Movement in Ireland.
The present oratory was the vision of Father Patrick Hurley and was designed by Samuel F Hynes (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
The vision for the present oratory was developed by Father Patrick Hurley, who also developed the ‘ancient’ monastic settlement on the island. A scholarly priest, versed in the Revivalist art and literature of the period, he specified that the oratory should be built in a mix of Hiberno-Romanesque and Byzantine styles, with details based on 12th century Irish churches such as Cormac’s Chapel on the Rock of Cashel.
Hurley financed the oratory through two wealthy Irish-Americans, and was officially opened on the Feast of the Assumption, 15 August 1901.
The architect was Samuel F Hynes of Cork, and the interior decoration was designed by Michael Buckley of Youghal, Co Cork, and Bruges, Belgium.
Many details of the oratory were inspired by Cormac’s Chapel on the Rock of Cashel (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
The architect Samuel Francis Hynes (1854-1931) was born into an old Cork family. From 1869, he was a pupil of William Atkins in Cork five years. He then travelled on Continental Europe before setting up his own practice in Cork in 1875. Two of his early designs were for the chapel of the Convent of Mercy, Bantry, and the De Vesci Memorial in Abbeyleix.
Hynes practised from South Mall, Cork, for over 40 years. The greater part of his commissions came from the Catholic Church and religious orders. He was part of a wider group of late 19th century architects commissioned to create new symbolism for an increasingly confident Catholic Church. He retired in 1929 and died in 1931.
The walls of the oratory are of mountain stone, relieved by dressings of limestone. The roof, like Cormac’s Chapel. was originally of stone, necessitated by the heavy rains that prevail in mountain districts.
Inside the oratory … the interior was designed by Michael Buckley of Youghal (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Inside is an elegant barrel-vaulted, a freestanding altar, important stained-glass windows, intricate stone carvings, and only four rows of small pews.
The altar, furnishings and stained-glass windows were designed by Michael Joseph Cunningham Buckley (1847-1905), an antiquarian and designer of church furnishings, who worked out of London, Youghal, Co Cork, and Bruges in Belgium, from the 1860s until his death.
Buckley was a son of John George Buckley, of Carrick-on-Suir, Co Tipperary. When John Buckley was emigrating to Newfoundland as a young man, he was captured by a French privateer and taken as a prisoner to France, where he was held for some time.
The intricately-carved altar in the oratory, with Celtic motifs (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Michael Buckley was born in Cahir, Co Tipperary, in 1847 or 1848, and educated at Mount Melleray Abbey, Cappoquin, Co Waterford, and in Louvain. He became a partner in the firm of Cox and Buckley, ecclesiastical art manufacturers in London, in 1881.
However, when Cox and Buckley failed, Buckley suffered severe financial losses. He returned to Ireland and set up a stained glass and metal works in Youghal. He was also an agent and designer for the Decorative Arts Guild of Bruges.
Buckley’s other works include the design and installation in Carlow Cathedral in 1899 of the Bishop Michael Comerford Memorial Pulpit, the work of Peter de Wispelaere of Bruges, and the oak stalls in Saint Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Buckley had a particular interest in ecclesiastical art and architecture, and contributed regularly to arts, antiquarian, historical and archaeological journals.
Buckley was about to bring some Belgian art workers to Youghal when he died in Youghal in 1905. His firm was taken over around 1903 or 1904 by James Watson & Co of Youghal, who completed the oratory in Gougane Barra.
Saint Finbarr in a Watson window in the oratory (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Apart from a Marian image, all the windows in the oratory depict Irish saints, some of whom are local to Cork: Saint Finbarr, Saint Ita, Saint Brendan, Saint Fachtna, Saint Gobnet and Saint Eltin.
The beauty and location of the oratory have made it such a popular venue for weddings and wedding photographs, with a waiting list for weddings that is years long. Saint Finbarr’s Oratory is the final destination for one of the five Pilgrim Paths of Ireland, Saint Finbarr’s Pilgrim Path, which starts 35 km away in Drimoleague.
Until the 1930s, the area was given over to smallholdings. The farmers were relocated and Coilte (the Department of Forestry) began developing Gougane Barra in 1938 as a commercial forest. They planted Lodgepole pine, Japanese larch and Sitka spruce the only species that would survive on the poor soil. Here too is a large number of native species of flora and fauna.
Gougane Barra is the final destination on Saint Finbarr’s Pilgrim Path (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Today, Gougane Barra Park has 5 km of roads and 10 km of hiking and biking trails. There are six different walking trails in the forest park, varying in length and difficulty, although none is exceptionally long. A looped trail offers views of the valley and the surrounding countryside.
Even the eye-catching thatched public toilet tucked away in the forest park but close to the church has made its own reputation. It won the prize for the top toilet in Ireland in 2002, and it is listed in the Lonely Planet guidebooks among the most memorable outdoor public lavatories in the world.
The learning associated with Saint Finbarr gives rise to a popular Irish saying, Ionad Bairre Sgoil na Mumhan, ‘Finbarr’s foundation, the School of Munster.’ A version of this is the motto of University College Cork, ‘Where Finbarr taught let Munster learn.’
Even the eye-catching thatched public toilet at Gougane Barra is a prize winner (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)
Labels:
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18 October 2017
A controversial preacher
who links Ireland with
Lichfield and Tamworth
The Revd Walter Shirley (1726-1786) … Rector of Loughrea, co Galway, and a controversial preacher in the Georgian era (©Trustees of the British Museum, CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 license)
Patrick Comerford
At times, it is curious to find connections between clergy in these dioceses and events and history in Lichfield and Tamworth.
The Revd Walter Shirley (1726-1786), Rector of Loughrea, Co Galway, in the Diocese of Clonfert, was a hymn-writer, and a controversial figure in the Methodist movement, supporting his first cousin, the Countess of Huntingdon, and the Calvinists who opposed the brothers John and Charles Wesley in a public rift in 1770.
But his hymns and sermons were strongly Calvinist and his views stirred intense controversy, and Shirley seems to have spent little time in his parish in Co Galway. He was a regular speaker at revivalist meetings throughout England and Ireland, earning the censure of the Bishop of Clonfert and drawing down the wrath of the Archbishop of Dublin for preaching at an independent chapel opened by the Countess of Huntingdon in 1773 in Plunket Street (now John Dillon Street), off Francis Street, Dublin.
Shirley was married in Saint Mary’s Church in Dublin in 1766 and was buried there in 1786, and he appears to have spent much of his time in Ireland in Dublin rather than in the Diocese of Clonfert.
He was Oxford educated, from a long line of aristocrats, and held religious views that were strongly controversial in Ireland and within the Church of Ireland. So, what brought a man like this to Ireland?
An elaborate Ferrers family monument in Saint Editha’s Church, Tamworth (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2017)
Walter Shirley was born on 28 September 1725 at Staunton Harold, his grandfather’s stately home in rural Leicestershire. He was the grandson of Robert Shirley (1650-1717), 1st Earl Ferrers, who had also inherited a portion of a large Irish estate in Co Monaghan: the Shirley estate at Lough Fea, near Carrickmacross, was once the largest estate in Co Monaghan, totalling 26,386 acres.
Lord Ferrers was suggested as a parliamentary candidate for Lichfield in 1677. But he preferred a seat in the House of Lords instead, and by sleight of hand and an obscure exercise in genealogy the barony of Ferrers of Chartley was called out of abeyance in his favour.
His family tree is complicated, the inheritance of Tamworth Castle from the Ferrers family and the use of the Ferrers name in the titles is obscure, and the inheritance of family estates and titles is difficult to follow at times. The family tree is complicated, compounded by the claim that he was the father of 27 legitimate children and 51 illegitimate children.
Tamworth Castle … passed through a different line of descent from the family titles (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The Revd Walter Shirley was a first cousin of Robert Shirley (1692-1714), Lord Tamworth, who had inherited Tamworth Castle from his mother in 1697. But with Lord Tamworth’s death, Tamworth Castle and the family titles were separated and were inherited by different lines of decent.
Because of these complications in the family tree, the Revd Walter Shirley was a nephew of both the 2nd Earl Ferrers, who was known briefly as Lord Tamworth, and the insane 3rd Earl Ferrers, and a younger brother of the fourth, fifth and sixth earls.
Walter Ferrers was educated at University College, Oxford (BA 1746). In early adult life, he was converted to evangelical principles, perhaps by Henry Venn (1725-1797) of the Clapham Sect. He was ordained deacon by Frederick Cornwallis, Bishop of Lichfield, in 1757, and briefly served as curate of Ashbourne in Derbyshire. His family connection with the Countess of Huntingdon brought him into intimate contact with the revivalist movements of the time. He was friendly with the Wesleys and George Whitefield, and from about 1758 was strongly linked with the Calvinists within Methodism, although he remained an Anglican.
In 1760, the Shirley family was rocked by one of the great society scandals of the day, when his eldest brother, Laurence Shirley (1720-1760), the fourth Earl Ferrers, was hanged at Tyburn for murdering his steward. Ferrers was tried by his peers in Westminster Hall, and despite his plea of insanity he was convicted of murder. He was the last peer of the realm to be hanged as a common criminal. As a concession to his rank, the rope used for his hanging was made of silk. His body was then taken to Surgeon’s Hall for public exhibition and dissection.
Saint Mary’s Church, Dublin, where Walter Shirley was married in 1766 and buried in 1786 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Walter Shirley moved to Ireland as the Rector of Loughrea, Co Galway, about this time. The move may have been motivated by ambition, and there may have been a promise of preferment. He married in Saint Mary’s Church, Dublin, on 27 August 1766, Henrietta Maria Phillips, daughter of John Phillips of Dublin, an illegitimate son of the 1st Lord Molesworth. They were the parents of two sons and three daughters:
1, John Shirley, who was born in Loughrea in 1767 and died in Bath in 1773.
2, The Revd Walter Shirley.
3, Frances Anne, who was born in 1770 and married the Revd John Going (1766-1829), of Mealiffe, Co Tipperary.
4, Henrietta Elianor, married the Revd Henry Bunbury of Johnstown, Co Carlow.
5, Ann Augusta, married Gabriel Maturin, grandson of Gabriel Maturin and Jonathan Swift’s successor as Dean of Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin.
Although some of his children were born in Loughrea, Shirley was often absent from his parish in Co Galway, mainly due to his activities as a revivalist preacher, which brought him repeatedly into conflict with his bishop and fellow clergy. He was also serving as a chaplain to his cousin Selina, Countess of Huntingdon.
Shirley played a major role in the Methodist split in 1770, supporting Lady Huntingdon and the Calvinists, including the hymn-writer Augustus Toplady, against John Wesley and the Arminians. Shirley’s influence only helped to embitter the dispute.
The Bishop of Clonfert, Walter Cope, censured Shirley in June 1778 and advised him to abandon his Methodism, and some clergy in the Church of Ireland petitioned the Archbishop of Dublin, John Cradock, to reprimand him for preaching in the Bethesda Chapel and the Plunkett Street Chapel in Dublin.
In his later years, Shirley suffered with dropsy, and he died on 7 April 1786 at the age of 59. He was buried in Saint Mary’s Church, Dublin, where he had been married.
His only surviving son, the Revd Walter Shirley (1768-1859), was born in Loughrea, Co Galway, on 11 October 1768, and was educated at Trinity College Dublin (BA).
He lived at Westport, Co Mayo, and in Dublin on 26 July 1796 he married Alicia Newenham, a daughter of Sir Edward Newenham (1734-1814) of Belcamp Hall, MP for Enniscorthy, Co Wexford (1769-1776), and Co Dublin (1776-1797), and a friend of George Washington and Benjamin Franklin. Her sister Rachel married Canon John Hoare of Drishane (Millstreet), Co Cork, who was one of my predecessors as Rector of Rathkeale (1803-1813). Rachel and John Hoare were the parents of the Very Revd Edward Newenham Hoare (1802-1877), founder of Holy Trinity Church, Limerick (1834), Archdeacon of Ardfert (1836-1839), Dean of Achonry (1839-1850) and Dean of Waterford (1850-1877).
Walter and Alicia Shirley were the parents of one daughter, Henrietta Jane Shirley, and an only son, Walter Augustus Shirley (1797-1847), who was born in Westport, Co Mayo, on 30 May 1797.
Walter felt compelled to flee Ireland during the 1798 Rising, and he and his family had a peripatetic existence until he found a curacy first in Latchingdon, Essex (1808), and then in South Mymms, London (1814). Security came when he re-established a link with his first cousin, Robert Shirley (1756-1827), 7th Earl Ferrers and formerly known as Lord Tamworth from 1778 to 1787. In 1815, through this patronage, Walter was appointed Rector of Shirley (1815-1827), a Derbyshire parish in the Diocese of Lichfield that was in the gift of the family. Later, Walter was the Rector of Woodford, Northamptonshire, and he succeeded his own son as Rector of Brailsford, Derbyshire (1847-1859).
His experiences in Ireland shaped views that he continued to hold throughout his life, and with the restoration of the Catholic hierarchy in England in 1850, he expressed strongly anti-Catholic views.
Alicia Shirley died in Brailsford in December 1855 at the age 81 and Walter Shirley died on 9 April 1859.
Bishop Walter Augustus Shirley was born in Westport, Co Mayo, in 1797
Their only son, Walter Augustus Shirley (1797-1847), was born in Westport, Co Mayo, on 30 May 1797. His father’s cousin, Lord Ferrers, supported this younger Walter going to school in Winchester in 1809. There he won a scholarship to New College Oxford in 1815, and at the same time Lord Ferrers gave his father the living of Shirley in Derbyshire. When he married Maria Waddington in Paris in 1827, his father resigned Shirley so that the younger Walter could become rector of the family parish.
He became a scholar of Winchester College in 1809, and six years later was elected to a scholarship at New College, Oxford (BA 1819, MA 1823). He became a fellow of New College in 1818. He was ordained deacon on 7 August 1820 and took charge of the parish of Woodford, one of the livings held by his father. In 1821, he became curate of Parwich in Derbyshire, and in 1822 he was curate of Atlow.
He acted as Anglican chaplain in Rome in the winter of 1826-1827, and there he got to know the Bunsens and Thomas Erskine, as well as Eastlake and Wilkie.
He was appointed assistant lecturer (curate) at Ashbourne in 1827, and that autumn in Paris he married Maria Waddington, the daughter of William Waddington. His father resigned the living of Shirley in his favour, and he moved there in January 1828.
Shirley was reared in the strictest evangelical tradition, but he alienated some of his friends with his outspoken support for Catholic Emancipation in 1829. In later years, he lost more friends by refusing to support violent measures against the Tractarians.
After nine years, he moved to the parish of Whiston, near Rotherham, but he continued to hold it with Shirley for another two years later, when he was appointed to the incumbency of Brailsford, a parish beside Shirley.
He was appointed Archdeacon of Derby by the Bishop of Lichfield on 21 December 1840 and also became a prebendary of Lichfield Cathedral. He was a Vice-President of the Lichfield Architectural Society, which promoted the insights of the Gothic Revival in church architecture along the lines introduced by AWN Pugin and the Cambridge Camden Society, with close Tractarian affiliations.
In November 1846, he was appointed Bishop of Sodor and Man, an a few weeks later, on 17 December 1846, he received the degree of Doctor of Divinity (DD) from Oxford. However, because of a serious illness he was not consecrated bishop until 10 January 1847.
He had been elected the Bampton Lecturer for that year, but lived only long enough to deliver two of the lectures in Oxford before he died at Bishop’s Court on the Isle of Man on 21 April 1847, just three months after his consecration.
At the time of his death, it was said Shirley had gained the esteem of the clergy and people in his new diocese. However, his letters indicate some strong criticism of the clergy, island ways and Methodism.
Maria (Waddington) Shirley died in 1854 age 55. Their only son, the Revd Professor Walter Waddington Shirley (1828-1866) was Professor of Church History at Oxford and a canon of Christ Church, Oxford.
An Anglican priest like his father, grandfather and great-grandfather, he was born at Shirley, Derbyshire, on 24 July 1828, and educated at Rugby School under Thomas Arnold. He played a part in founding Keble College, Oxford, but his career was cut short at the age of 38 when he died on 20 November 1866.
Bantry House, Co Cork, home of Lady Ina Hedges-White, who married Sewallis Edward Shirley (1847-1912), 10th Earl Ferrers (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Professor Shirley’s five children included Alice Shirley (1856-1911), who married the Revd William Richardson Linton, who also became Vicar of Shirley, and Walter Shirley (1864-1937), who eventually succeeded as the 11th Earl Ferrers in 1912 on the death of his fourth cousin, Sewallis Edward Shirley (1847-1912), 10th Earl Ferrers.
Donegal House, Lichfield … named after the ancestors of Lady Augusta Chichester, who married Washington Shirley (1822-1859), 9th Earl Ferrers and known in 1830-1842 as Viscount Tamworth (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The tenth earl, like many of his predecessors, was also known as Viscount Tamworth before inheriting the family titles and estates. His Irish-born wife, the former Lady Ina Hedges-White, was a daughter of the 3rd Earl of Bantry, and his mother, the former Lady Augusta Chichester, was a daughter of the 4th Marquess of Donegall, who had been Dean of Raphoe, Co Donegal. Previous generations of her family had also given their name to Donegal House in Lichfield, and had once inherited Fisherwick Park and Comberford Hall.
Meanwhile, Tamworth Castle had long passed out of the hands of the Ferrers family. Robert Shirley (1692-1714), a grandson of the first earl and a first cousin of the Revd Walter Shirley of Loughrea, was known as Viscount Tamworth for most of his life and inherited Tamworth Castle in 1697. However, he had no sons to succeed him as male heirs to the titles, and while the titles remained in the Ferrers family, Tamworth Castle eventually passed by inheritance and marriage to the Townsend family in 1751, the year Walter Ferrers was ordained by Bishop Cornwallis of Lichfield.
Comberford Hall, once part of the estates of the Chichester family (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Patrick Comerford
At times, it is curious to find connections between clergy in these dioceses and events and history in Lichfield and Tamworth.
The Revd Walter Shirley (1726-1786), Rector of Loughrea, Co Galway, in the Diocese of Clonfert, was a hymn-writer, and a controversial figure in the Methodist movement, supporting his first cousin, the Countess of Huntingdon, and the Calvinists who opposed the brothers John and Charles Wesley in a public rift in 1770.
But his hymns and sermons were strongly Calvinist and his views stirred intense controversy, and Shirley seems to have spent little time in his parish in Co Galway. He was a regular speaker at revivalist meetings throughout England and Ireland, earning the censure of the Bishop of Clonfert and drawing down the wrath of the Archbishop of Dublin for preaching at an independent chapel opened by the Countess of Huntingdon in 1773 in Plunket Street (now John Dillon Street), off Francis Street, Dublin.
Shirley was married in Saint Mary’s Church in Dublin in 1766 and was buried there in 1786, and he appears to have spent much of his time in Ireland in Dublin rather than in the Diocese of Clonfert.
He was Oxford educated, from a long line of aristocrats, and held religious views that were strongly controversial in Ireland and within the Church of Ireland. So, what brought a man like this to Ireland?
An elaborate Ferrers family monument in Saint Editha’s Church, Tamworth (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2017)
Walter Shirley was born on 28 September 1725 at Staunton Harold, his grandfather’s stately home in rural Leicestershire. He was the grandson of Robert Shirley (1650-1717), 1st Earl Ferrers, who had also inherited a portion of a large Irish estate in Co Monaghan: the Shirley estate at Lough Fea, near Carrickmacross, was once the largest estate in Co Monaghan, totalling 26,386 acres.
Lord Ferrers was suggested as a parliamentary candidate for Lichfield in 1677. But he preferred a seat in the House of Lords instead, and by sleight of hand and an obscure exercise in genealogy the barony of Ferrers of Chartley was called out of abeyance in his favour.
His family tree is complicated, the inheritance of Tamworth Castle from the Ferrers family and the use of the Ferrers name in the titles is obscure, and the inheritance of family estates and titles is difficult to follow at times. The family tree is complicated, compounded by the claim that he was the father of 27 legitimate children and 51 illegitimate children.
Tamworth Castle … passed through a different line of descent from the family titles (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The Revd Walter Shirley was a first cousin of Robert Shirley (1692-1714), Lord Tamworth, who had inherited Tamworth Castle from his mother in 1697. But with Lord Tamworth’s death, Tamworth Castle and the family titles were separated and were inherited by different lines of decent.
Because of these complications in the family tree, the Revd Walter Shirley was a nephew of both the 2nd Earl Ferrers, who was known briefly as Lord Tamworth, and the insane 3rd Earl Ferrers, and a younger brother of the fourth, fifth and sixth earls.
Walter Ferrers was educated at University College, Oxford (BA 1746). In early adult life, he was converted to evangelical principles, perhaps by Henry Venn (1725-1797) of the Clapham Sect. He was ordained deacon by Frederick Cornwallis, Bishop of Lichfield, in 1757, and briefly served as curate of Ashbourne in Derbyshire. His family connection with the Countess of Huntingdon brought him into intimate contact with the revivalist movements of the time. He was friendly with the Wesleys and George Whitefield, and from about 1758 was strongly linked with the Calvinists within Methodism, although he remained an Anglican.
In 1760, the Shirley family was rocked by one of the great society scandals of the day, when his eldest brother, Laurence Shirley (1720-1760), the fourth Earl Ferrers, was hanged at Tyburn for murdering his steward. Ferrers was tried by his peers in Westminster Hall, and despite his plea of insanity he was convicted of murder. He was the last peer of the realm to be hanged as a common criminal. As a concession to his rank, the rope used for his hanging was made of silk. His body was then taken to Surgeon’s Hall for public exhibition and dissection.
Saint Mary’s Church, Dublin, where Walter Shirley was married in 1766 and buried in 1786 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Walter Shirley moved to Ireland as the Rector of Loughrea, Co Galway, about this time. The move may have been motivated by ambition, and there may have been a promise of preferment. He married in Saint Mary’s Church, Dublin, on 27 August 1766, Henrietta Maria Phillips, daughter of John Phillips of Dublin, an illegitimate son of the 1st Lord Molesworth. They were the parents of two sons and three daughters:
1, John Shirley, who was born in Loughrea in 1767 and died in Bath in 1773.
2, The Revd Walter Shirley.
3, Frances Anne, who was born in 1770 and married the Revd John Going (1766-1829), of Mealiffe, Co Tipperary.
4, Henrietta Elianor, married the Revd Henry Bunbury of Johnstown, Co Carlow.
5, Ann Augusta, married Gabriel Maturin, grandson of Gabriel Maturin and Jonathan Swift’s successor as Dean of Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin.
Although some of his children were born in Loughrea, Shirley was often absent from his parish in Co Galway, mainly due to his activities as a revivalist preacher, which brought him repeatedly into conflict with his bishop and fellow clergy. He was also serving as a chaplain to his cousin Selina, Countess of Huntingdon.
Shirley played a major role in the Methodist split in 1770, supporting Lady Huntingdon and the Calvinists, including the hymn-writer Augustus Toplady, against John Wesley and the Arminians. Shirley’s influence only helped to embitter the dispute.
The Bishop of Clonfert, Walter Cope, censured Shirley in June 1778 and advised him to abandon his Methodism, and some clergy in the Church of Ireland petitioned the Archbishop of Dublin, John Cradock, to reprimand him for preaching in the Bethesda Chapel and the Plunkett Street Chapel in Dublin.
In his later years, Shirley suffered with dropsy, and he died on 7 April 1786 at the age of 59. He was buried in Saint Mary’s Church, Dublin, where he had been married.
His only surviving son, the Revd Walter Shirley (1768-1859), was born in Loughrea, Co Galway, on 11 October 1768, and was educated at Trinity College Dublin (BA).
He lived at Westport, Co Mayo, and in Dublin on 26 July 1796 he married Alicia Newenham, a daughter of Sir Edward Newenham (1734-1814) of Belcamp Hall, MP for Enniscorthy, Co Wexford (1769-1776), and Co Dublin (1776-1797), and a friend of George Washington and Benjamin Franklin. Her sister Rachel married Canon John Hoare of Drishane (Millstreet), Co Cork, who was one of my predecessors as Rector of Rathkeale (1803-1813). Rachel and John Hoare were the parents of the Very Revd Edward Newenham Hoare (1802-1877), founder of Holy Trinity Church, Limerick (1834), Archdeacon of Ardfert (1836-1839), Dean of Achonry (1839-1850) and Dean of Waterford (1850-1877).
Walter and Alicia Shirley were the parents of one daughter, Henrietta Jane Shirley, and an only son, Walter Augustus Shirley (1797-1847), who was born in Westport, Co Mayo, on 30 May 1797.
Walter felt compelled to flee Ireland during the 1798 Rising, and he and his family had a peripatetic existence until he found a curacy first in Latchingdon, Essex (1808), and then in South Mymms, London (1814). Security came when he re-established a link with his first cousin, Robert Shirley (1756-1827), 7th Earl Ferrers and formerly known as Lord Tamworth from 1778 to 1787. In 1815, through this patronage, Walter was appointed Rector of Shirley (1815-1827), a Derbyshire parish in the Diocese of Lichfield that was in the gift of the family. Later, Walter was the Rector of Woodford, Northamptonshire, and he succeeded his own son as Rector of Brailsford, Derbyshire (1847-1859).
His experiences in Ireland shaped views that he continued to hold throughout his life, and with the restoration of the Catholic hierarchy in England in 1850, he expressed strongly anti-Catholic views.
Alicia Shirley died in Brailsford in December 1855 at the age 81 and Walter Shirley died on 9 April 1859.
Bishop Walter Augustus Shirley was born in Westport, Co Mayo, in 1797
Their only son, Walter Augustus Shirley (1797-1847), was born in Westport, Co Mayo, on 30 May 1797. His father’s cousin, Lord Ferrers, supported this younger Walter going to school in Winchester in 1809. There he won a scholarship to New College Oxford in 1815, and at the same time Lord Ferrers gave his father the living of Shirley in Derbyshire. When he married Maria Waddington in Paris in 1827, his father resigned Shirley so that the younger Walter could become rector of the family parish.
He became a scholar of Winchester College in 1809, and six years later was elected to a scholarship at New College, Oxford (BA 1819, MA 1823). He became a fellow of New College in 1818. He was ordained deacon on 7 August 1820 and took charge of the parish of Woodford, one of the livings held by his father. In 1821, he became curate of Parwich in Derbyshire, and in 1822 he was curate of Atlow.
He acted as Anglican chaplain in Rome in the winter of 1826-1827, and there he got to know the Bunsens and Thomas Erskine, as well as Eastlake and Wilkie.
He was appointed assistant lecturer (curate) at Ashbourne in 1827, and that autumn in Paris he married Maria Waddington, the daughter of William Waddington. His father resigned the living of Shirley in his favour, and he moved there in January 1828.
Shirley was reared in the strictest evangelical tradition, but he alienated some of his friends with his outspoken support for Catholic Emancipation in 1829. In later years, he lost more friends by refusing to support violent measures against the Tractarians.
After nine years, he moved to the parish of Whiston, near Rotherham, but he continued to hold it with Shirley for another two years later, when he was appointed to the incumbency of Brailsford, a parish beside Shirley.
He was appointed Archdeacon of Derby by the Bishop of Lichfield on 21 December 1840 and also became a prebendary of Lichfield Cathedral. He was a Vice-President of the Lichfield Architectural Society, which promoted the insights of the Gothic Revival in church architecture along the lines introduced by AWN Pugin and the Cambridge Camden Society, with close Tractarian affiliations.
In November 1846, he was appointed Bishop of Sodor and Man, an a few weeks later, on 17 December 1846, he received the degree of Doctor of Divinity (DD) from Oxford. However, because of a serious illness he was not consecrated bishop until 10 January 1847.
He had been elected the Bampton Lecturer for that year, but lived only long enough to deliver two of the lectures in Oxford before he died at Bishop’s Court on the Isle of Man on 21 April 1847, just three months after his consecration.
At the time of his death, it was said Shirley had gained the esteem of the clergy and people in his new diocese. However, his letters indicate some strong criticism of the clergy, island ways and Methodism.
Maria (Waddington) Shirley died in 1854 age 55. Their only son, the Revd Professor Walter Waddington Shirley (1828-1866) was Professor of Church History at Oxford and a canon of Christ Church, Oxford.
An Anglican priest like his father, grandfather and great-grandfather, he was born at Shirley, Derbyshire, on 24 July 1828, and educated at Rugby School under Thomas Arnold. He played a part in founding Keble College, Oxford, but his career was cut short at the age of 38 when he died on 20 November 1866.
Bantry House, Co Cork, home of Lady Ina Hedges-White, who married Sewallis Edward Shirley (1847-1912), 10th Earl Ferrers (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Professor Shirley’s five children included Alice Shirley (1856-1911), who married the Revd William Richardson Linton, who also became Vicar of Shirley, and Walter Shirley (1864-1937), who eventually succeeded as the 11th Earl Ferrers in 1912 on the death of his fourth cousin, Sewallis Edward Shirley (1847-1912), 10th Earl Ferrers.
Donegal House, Lichfield … named after the ancestors of Lady Augusta Chichester, who married Washington Shirley (1822-1859), 9th Earl Ferrers and known in 1830-1842 as Viscount Tamworth (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
The tenth earl, like many of his predecessors, was also known as Viscount Tamworth before inheriting the family titles and estates. His Irish-born wife, the former Lady Ina Hedges-White, was a daughter of the 3rd Earl of Bantry, and his mother, the former Lady Augusta Chichester, was a daughter of the 4th Marquess of Donegall, who had been Dean of Raphoe, Co Donegal. Previous generations of her family had also given their name to Donegal House in Lichfield, and had once inherited Fisherwick Park and Comberford Hall.
Meanwhile, Tamworth Castle had long passed out of the hands of the Ferrers family. Robert Shirley (1692-1714), a grandson of the first earl and a first cousin of the Revd Walter Shirley of Loughrea, was known as Viscount Tamworth for most of his life and inherited Tamworth Castle in 1697. However, he had no sons to succeed him as male heirs to the titles, and while the titles remained in the Ferrers family, Tamworth Castle eventually passed by inheritance and marriage to the Townsend family in 1751, the year Walter Ferrers was ordained by Bishop Cornwallis of Lichfield.
Comberford Hall, once part of the estates of the Chichester family (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
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16 May 2017
Thinking about planning
a ‘Brendan voyage’ in
his diocese on 16 May
Saint Brendan the Voyager … a new icon by Aidan Hart commemorates the saint whose feast day is celebrated today
Patrick Comerford
Saint Brendan’s feast day is celebrated today [16 May]. I am in the Rathkeale and Kilnaughtin Group of parishes less than four months, and I regret that I have not organised something liturgically appropriate and special today to mark Saint Brendan’s Day.
Saint Brendan’s feast day is celebrated on 16 May and in Ireland he is the patron saint of sailors, boatmen, mariners, travellers, elderly adventurers, and of the dioceses of Ardfert and Clonfert.
Saint Brendan is the patron saint of Saint Brendan’s Church in Kilnaughtin, Tarbert, Co Kerry, but is also the patron saint of Saint Brendan’s Cathedral, Clonfert, Co Galway, one of the three cathedrals of which I am the precentor – the other two are Saint Mary’s Cathedral, Limerick, and Saint Flannan’s Cathedral, Killaloe, Co Clare.
Another cathedral in the diocese was also named after him, but Saint Brendan’s Cathedral in Ardfert, Co Kerry, was destroyed by fire almost 400 years ago in 1641.
Saint Brendan’s Church, Kilnaughtin, in Tarbert, Co Kerry (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2017)
Saint Brendan of Kerry, or Saint Brendan of Clonfert, is also known as Brendan moccu Altae, Brendan the Navigator, Brendan the Voyager, and Brendan the Anchorite. He is known for his legendary journey to the Isle of the Blessed, narrated in The Voyage of Saint Brendan, and is described as one of the ‘Twelve Apostles of Ireland.’
However, many of the details of Saint Brendan’s life come to us from myth and legend in the Irish annals and genealogies rather than having reliable historical evidence.
He is first mentioned in Adamnan’s Vita Sancti Columbae, written sometime between 679 and 704. The first reference to him as a seafarer appears later in the ninth century in the Martyrology of Tallaght.
The several Latin and Irish versions of the Life of Brendan and the Voyage of Saint Brendan the Abbot (Navigatio sancti Brendani abbatis) date from the end of the 12th century, although earlier versions may have been composed around the year 1000. This makes it difficult to reconstruct details of the life of the real Brendan or to understand the nature of the Brendan legends.
Saint Brendan setting out on his voyage … a sculpture in the square in Bantry, Co Cork, unveiled by Brendan Howlin when he was a cabinet minister (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2017)
It is said that Saint Brendan was born in Tralee, Co Kerry, in 484 and was baptised at Tubrid, near Ardfert, by Saint Erc, and that he was later tutored by Saint Finnian of Clonard.
At the age of 26, Brendan was ordained priest by Saint Erc, and he later founded a number of monasteries. His first voyage took him to the Arran Islands, and he also visited Iona, where he is said to have met Saint Columcille or Columba. His travels also brought him to Wales and Brittany, on the northern coast of France.
But Saint Brendan is best known for a legendary journey with 16 pilgrims to the Isle of the Blessed, supposedly in search of the Garden of Eden. This group fasted for 40 days before embarking in the name of the Trinity, and their voyages created one of the most remarkable and enduring European legends.
Over the years there have been many interpretations of the possible geographical location of Saint Brendan’s Island, from places in the southern part of Ireland, to the Canary Islands, the Faroes or the Azores, and Madeira, or even the Americas. It is difficult to tell what is factual and what is folklore, but it is a story of salvation, monastic obedience, pilgrimage.
The Navigatio was known widely throughout mediaeval Europe. Some maps in the time of Christopher Columbus included an island called Saint Brendan’s Isle in the western Atlantic Ocean. But there was never any reliable evidence that Saint Brendan ever reached Greenland or America.
Tim Severin’s film The Brendan Voyage (1978) inspired the Irish composer Shaun Davey to compose his orchestral suite The Brendan Voyage.
The ruins of Saint Brendan’s ... probably the site of the early monastic settlement in Birr, Co Offaly (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
It is said that after his voyages and after establishing a bishop’s see at Ardfert, Saint Brendan founded a monastery at Annaghdown, where he lived the rest of his life.
Among the many churches associated with Saint Brendan, the name of the Church of Ireland parish church in Birr, Co Offaly, continues the name of a monastery founded nearby on the banks of the River Camco, in the 6th century AD. An important work from this monastery is the illuminated text known as the Macregol Gospels or the Book of Birr, now in the Bodleian Library, Oxford.
In the late 12th century, Giraldus Cambrensis referred to the Birr Stone as umbilicus Hiberniae or the navel of Ireland.
The ruins of Saint Brendan’s Cathedral, Annaghdown, on the eastern shores of Lough Corrib, Co Galway (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Saint Brendan is also said to have founded the church and monastery in Clonfert, Co Galway, around 557. He died ca 577 at Annaghdown, Co Galway, and he arranged before his death to have his body carried back to his monastery at Clonfert, where he is buried at Saint Brendan’s Cathedral.
Saint Brendan’s Cathedral, Clonfert, is one of four cathedrals still open in the United Dioceses of Limerick and Killaloe, and the monastic site predates the stories of the saint’s voyages. Clonfert became one of the foremost monastic schools in Ireland and the inspiration for many great missionary ventures across Europe.
The monastery was burned in 1016, 1164, and again in 1179, but in its heyday Clonfert may have had 3,000 monks. The centuries-old Yew Walk, with its cross-shaped paths, looks like church transept with a green ceiling. Local lore says the monks walked under the trees in silence, reading their daily office. However, the Diocese of Clonfert was not organised until 1111 and the diocesan boundaries were not fixed until 1152.
The first stone cathedral here was built around 1167 by Bishop Petrus Ua Mórda, and the earliest part of the cathedral dates from this period. The West Doorway is the crowning glory of the cathedral and the greatest masterpiece of Hiberno-Romanesque work, and the cathedral is listed in the 2000 World Monuments Watch.
The doorway has eight orders of jambs, surmounted by seven orders of arches and crowned by a triangular pediment bordered by carved ropes. The triangular pointed hoods and decorations form a unique mediaeval gallery with a truly fabulous variety of motifs, including human faces, bizarre beasts, formalised flowers and interlacing geometrical shapes, representing the way all creation points to the Trinity.
The West Doorway of Clonfert Cathedral is the greatest Hiberno-Romanesque masterpiece (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
At Ardfert, the ruins of the ancient Cathedral of Saint Brendan, with its chantries and chapels, form a complete reliquary of Irish ecclesiastical architecture, in its different orders and ages, from the seventh or eighth century to mediaeval Gothic. The cathedral was finally dismantled in 1641.
So, from the south-west of this diocese in many parts of Kerry, to the centre around Birr and the north-east at Clonfert, Saint Brendan is associated with many of the churches, cathedrals and early ecclesiastical centres.
It might be a good idea to organise something appropriate on Saint Brendan’s Day, 16 May, in Kilnaughtin next year, and it seems there is potential for a Saint Brendan’s Way or pilgrim-tourist trail through the diocese, from Ardfert, Tralee or Killarney, through Tarbert, to Birr and on to Clonfert.
Saint Brendan’s Cathedral, Clonfert, is listed in the 2000 World Monuments Watch (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Patrick Comerford
Saint Brendan’s feast day is celebrated today [16 May]. I am in the Rathkeale and Kilnaughtin Group of parishes less than four months, and I regret that I have not organised something liturgically appropriate and special today to mark Saint Brendan’s Day.
Saint Brendan’s feast day is celebrated on 16 May and in Ireland he is the patron saint of sailors, boatmen, mariners, travellers, elderly adventurers, and of the dioceses of Ardfert and Clonfert.
Saint Brendan is the patron saint of Saint Brendan’s Church in Kilnaughtin, Tarbert, Co Kerry, but is also the patron saint of Saint Brendan’s Cathedral, Clonfert, Co Galway, one of the three cathedrals of which I am the precentor – the other two are Saint Mary’s Cathedral, Limerick, and Saint Flannan’s Cathedral, Killaloe, Co Clare.
Another cathedral in the diocese was also named after him, but Saint Brendan’s Cathedral in Ardfert, Co Kerry, was destroyed by fire almost 400 years ago in 1641.
Saint Brendan’s Church, Kilnaughtin, in Tarbert, Co Kerry (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2017)
Saint Brendan of Kerry, or Saint Brendan of Clonfert, is also known as Brendan moccu Altae, Brendan the Navigator, Brendan the Voyager, and Brendan the Anchorite. He is known for his legendary journey to the Isle of the Blessed, narrated in The Voyage of Saint Brendan, and is described as one of the ‘Twelve Apostles of Ireland.’
However, many of the details of Saint Brendan’s life come to us from myth and legend in the Irish annals and genealogies rather than having reliable historical evidence.
He is first mentioned in Adamnan’s Vita Sancti Columbae, written sometime between 679 and 704. The first reference to him as a seafarer appears later in the ninth century in the Martyrology of Tallaght.
The several Latin and Irish versions of the Life of Brendan and the Voyage of Saint Brendan the Abbot (Navigatio sancti Brendani abbatis) date from the end of the 12th century, although earlier versions may have been composed around the year 1000. This makes it difficult to reconstruct details of the life of the real Brendan or to understand the nature of the Brendan legends.
Saint Brendan setting out on his voyage … a sculpture in the square in Bantry, Co Cork, unveiled by Brendan Howlin when he was a cabinet minister (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2017)
It is said that Saint Brendan was born in Tralee, Co Kerry, in 484 and was baptised at Tubrid, near Ardfert, by Saint Erc, and that he was later tutored by Saint Finnian of Clonard.
At the age of 26, Brendan was ordained priest by Saint Erc, and he later founded a number of monasteries. His first voyage took him to the Arran Islands, and he also visited Iona, where he is said to have met Saint Columcille or Columba. His travels also brought him to Wales and Brittany, on the northern coast of France.
But Saint Brendan is best known for a legendary journey with 16 pilgrims to the Isle of the Blessed, supposedly in search of the Garden of Eden. This group fasted for 40 days before embarking in the name of the Trinity, and their voyages created one of the most remarkable and enduring European legends.
Over the years there have been many interpretations of the possible geographical location of Saint Brendan’s Island, from places in the southern part of Ireland, to the Canary Islands, the Faroes or the Azores, and Madeira, or even the Americas. It is difficult to tell what is factual and what is folklore, but it is a story of salvation, monastic obedience, pilgrimage.
The Navigatio was known widely throughout mediaeval Europe. Some maps in the time of Christopher Columbus included an island called Saint Brendan’s Isle in the western Atlantic Ocean. But there was never any reliable evidence that Saint Brendan ever reached Greenland or America.
Tim Severin’s film The Brendan Voyage (1978) inspired the Irish composer Shaun Davey to compose his orchestral suite The Brendan Voyage.
It is said that after his voyages and after establishing a bishop’s see at Ardfert, Saint Brendan founded a monastery at Annaghdown, where he lived the rest of his life.
Among the many churches associated with Saint Brendan, the name of the Church of Ireland parish church in Birr, Co Offaly, continues the name of a monastery founded nearby on the banks of the River Camco, in the 6th century AD. An important work from this monastery is the illuminated text known as the Macregol Gospels or the Book of Birr, now in the Bodleian Library, Oxford.
In the late 12th century, Giraldus Cambrensis referred to the Birr Stone as umbilicus Hiberniae or the navel of Ireland.
The ruins of Saint Brendan’s Cathedral, Annaghdown, on the eastern shores of Lough Corrib, Co Galway (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
Saint Brendan is also said to have founded the church and monastery in Clonfert, Co Galway, around 557. He died ca 577 at Annaghdown, Co Galway, and he arranged before his death to have his body carried back to his monastery at Clonfert, where he is buried at Saint Brendan’s Cathedral.
Saint Brendan’s Cathedral, Clonfert, is one of four cathedrals still open in the United Dioceses of Limerick and Killaloe, and the monastic site predates the stories of the saint’s voyages. Clonfert became one of the foremost monastic schools in Ireland and the inspiration for many great missionary ventures across Europe.
The monastery was burned in 1016, 1164, and again in 1179, but in its heyday Clonfert may have had 3,000 monks. The centuries-old Yew Walk, with its cross-shaped paths, looks like church transept with a green ceiling. Local lore says the monks walked under the trees in silence, reading their daily office. However, the Diocese of Clonfert was not organised until 1111 and the diocesan boundaries were not fixed until 1152.
The first stone cathedral here was built around 1167 by Bishop Petrus Ua Mórda, and the earliest part of the cathedral dates from this period. The West Doorway is the crowning glory of the cathedral and the greatest masterpiece of Hiberno-Romanesque work, and the cathedral is listed in the 2000 World Monuments Watch.
The doorway has eight orders of jambs, surmounted by seven orders of arches and crowned by a triangular pediment bordered by carved ropes. The triangular pointed hoods and decorations form a unique mediaeval gallery with a truly fabulous variety of motifs, including human faces, bizarre beasts, formalised flowers and interlacing geometrical shapes, representing the way all creation points to the Trinity.
The West Doorway of Clonfert Cathedral is the greatest Hiberno-Romanesque masterpiece (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
At Ardfert, the ruins of the ancient Cathedral of Saint Brendan, with its chantries and chapels, form a complete reliquary of Irish ecclesiastical architecture, in its different orders and ages, from the seventh or eighth century to mediaeval Gothic. The cathedral was finally dismantled in 1641.
So, from the south-west of this diocese in many parts of Kerry, to the centre around Birr and the north-east at Clonfert, Saint Brendan is associated with many of the churches, cathedrals and early ecclesiastical centres.
It might be a good idea to organise something appropriate on Saint Brendan’s Day, 16 May, in Kilnaughtin next year, and it seems there is potential for a Saint Brendan’s Way or pilgrim-tourist trail through the diocese, from Ardfert, Tralee or Killarney, through Tarbert, to Birr and on to Clonfert.
Saint Brendan’s Cathedral, Clonfert, is listed in the 2000 World Monuments Watch (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)
30 July 2016
Dartry House: from mill owners and
strike breakers to missionary priests
Dartry House, built as Dartry Hall in 1810-1840, and was once the home of William Martin Murphy (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
Patrick Comerford
During one of my afternoon walks in the Rathgar area this week, I walked along Orwell Park, to photograph a house where the playwright John Millington Synge had lived during his early childhood, and then found myself at Dartry House, a house that I had known over ten years ago, and that has been impressively restored since then.
Dartry House is an imposing two-storey mansion built about 1810-1840 with several later additions such as a turret which was incorporated in the building about 1900.
It was originally built as Dartry Hall for Obadiah Williams, a wealthy merchant of Huguenot descent.
Dartry Mill today … the proprietor, William Wallace, lived at Dartry Hall from 1844-1849 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
From 1844 to 1849, Dartry Hall was owned by William Wallace, the proprietor of the Dartry Mill. In 1849, he sold the house to William Drury, and it remained in his family’s ownership until 1883, when the house was bought by the industrialist and newspaper proprietor William Martin Murphy (1845-1919), who was then living nearby in Rostrevor Terrace, Rathgar.
Murphy was originally from Bantry, Co Cork. He moved to Dublin in 1875, and from 1878 he was living at No 7 Rostrevor Terrace. But within a decade of moving to Dublin he had moved into Dartry Hall.
In Murphy’s days, the grounds of Dartry House included walled gardens and a tropical greenhouse. Murphy made a number of additions to the house, including the mansard attic rooms and a turret, which was built around 1900. Although the turret can not be seen by the public today, these additions create a the image of a French chateau or even a Disney-style fantasy castle to this house in quiet, secluded corner of suburban south Dublin.
Dartry Hall in Ernest Cavanagh’s cartoon in ‘The Irish Worker’ of William ‘Murder’ Murphy
Murphy owned a number of businesses in Dublin, including the Irish Independent, Clery’s department store, the Imperial Hotel and the Metropole Hotel and the Dublin United Tramways Company (DUTC), and he was a central figure in the Dublin Lockout in 1913, when the union side was led by Jim Larkin.
Ernest Cavanagh’s cartoons in the Irish Worker in 1913 depicted Murphy at the gates of Dartry Hall, and labelled him ‘William Murder Murphy’ and ‘The Vulture of Dartry Hall.’ The poet WB Yeats also expressed his disdain for Murphy in a number of poems that had an enduring impact on Murphy’s image in subsequent generations.
James Larkin described him as ‘the most foul and vicious blackguard that ever polluted any country … a capitalistic vampire.’
Tramway House on Dartry Road, opposite a side entrance to Dartry House (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
The DUTC owned by Murphy built the tram line from the centre of Dublin to Dartry and the No 14 tram line came to an end at Dartry Hall. The terminus and the associated sheds now house an engineering firm.
Murphy was a constitutional Nationalist, and was an Irish Parliamentary Party MP for Dublin Saint Patrick’s from 1885 to 1892. Murphy sided with the majority Anti-Parnellites when the party split. However, Dublin was a Parnellite stronghold and in the bitter general election of 1892, Murphy lost his seat to a Parnellite newcomer, William Field by a wide margin of 3,991 to 1,110.
Murphy was offered a knighthood by King Edward in 1907 for his contribution to the Irish International Exhibition in Herbert Park, but it is said the offer was firmly but politely refused.
With his father-in-law James Lombard, also a Nationalist MP, Murphy built hundreds of houses in the Dublin area. Murphy died on 26 June 1919 at Dartry Hall from a heart attack caused by aortic valve disease. He is buried in an unmarked vault within the O’Connell Circle in Glasnevin Cemetery, Dublin.
Murphy was succeeded at Dartry Hall by his son, William Lombard Murphy (1876-1943), and his daughter Eva Magdalene Murphy (1883-1958), who stayed on at the house. During the Irish Civil War, Dartry Hall was attacked by Republicans because a member of the family was a pro-Treaty member of the Rathmines and Rathgar Urban District Council.
When Eva Magdalene Murphy died in 1958, Dartry Hall was sold by the Murphy family. It was bought in 1958 by the Mill Hill Fathers, a congregation of missionary priests. By then it was known as Dartry House.
While the Mill Hill Fathers were there, the house hosted the offices of many mission agencies and voluntary organisations. I regularly attended meetings of the Irish Missionary Union and other organisations in the first decade of this century, until the house and its grounds were sold.
Dartry House and about four acres of ground at Orwell Park were sold to Eugene Renehan of Walthill Properties for around €30 million in 2005.
The house underwent extensive conservation and restoration works in 2008-2009 to provide seven new spacious apartments. The architects were Niall D. Brennan Associates.
The apartments have views over and access to the listed formal gardens located beside to the house. The restoration works carried out to Dartry House sought to ensure that this building is retained as a pivotal focus for the surrounding area of Dartry and Rathgar.
The rest of the site was developed with low-density schemes of apartments and houses. The site has a southerly orientation and backs on to a large belt of trees that divide it from Dartry Park and the River Dodder.
Eugene Renehan had already converted the 18th century courtyard at Headfort Estate in Kells, Co Meath, into a residential area. His other schemes included the Moorings at Portobello Harbour and Rathmines Wood at Lower Rathmines Wood.
The Mill Hill Missionaries used the proceeds of the sale to maintain priests returning to Ireland from the missions, and built a new house, Saint Joseph’s, on part of the original site.
Two pairs of granite pillars at the original entrance to Dartry Hall (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
Six of the original and impressive granite entrance pillars at Dartry House are still standing: four in two pairs just off Orwell Park, and and a pair for a pedestian entrance on Dartry Road, near the old mill and almost opposite Tramway House.
A modern plaque on one of the pillars outside Dartry House today says the house was “lovingly restored” by Eugene Renehan in 2010, and quotes John Ruskin in The Seven Lamps of Architecture (1849): “When we build, let us think that we build for ever.”
Dartry Hall when it was the home of William Martin Murphy
For other postings on the architectural heritage of South Dublin see:
Berwick Hall.
The Bottle Tower, Churchtown.
Brookvale House, Rathfarnham.
Camberley House, Churchtown.
Dartry House, Orwell Park, Rathfarnham.
Ely Arch, Rathfarnham.
Ely House, Nutgrove Avenue, Rathfarnham.
Fernhurst, 14 Orwell Road, Rathgar.
Fortfield House, Hyde Park, Terenure.
No 201 Harold’s Cross Road, the birthplace of Richard Allen.
Homestead, Sandyford Road, Dundrum.
Kilvare House, also known as Cheeverstown House, Templeogue Road.
Knocklyon Castle.
Laurelmere Lodge, Marlay Park.
Marlay Park.
Mountain View House, Beaumont Avenue, Churchtown.
Newbrook House, Taylor’s Lane, Rathfarnham.
Old Bawn House, Tallaght.
Rathfarnham Castle.
Sally Park, Fihouse.
Scholarstown House, Knocklyon.
Silveracre House, off Sarah Curran Avenue, Rathfarnham.
Synge House, Newtwon Villas, Churchtown, and No 4 Orwell Park, Rathgar.
Templeogue House.
Washington House, Butterfield Avenue, Rathfarnham.
Westbourne House, off Rathfarnham Road.
Patrick Comerford
During one of my afternoon walks in the Rathgar area this week, I walked along Orwell Park, to photograph a house where the playwright John Millington Synge had lived during his early childhood, and then found myself at Dartry House, a house that I had known over ten years ago, and that has been impressively restored since then.
Dartry House is an imposing two-storey mansion built about 1810-1840 with several later additions such as a turret which was incorporated in the building about 1900.
It was originally built as Dartry Hall for Obadiah Williams, a wealthy merchant of Huguenot descent.
Dartry Mill today … the proprietor, William Wallace, lived at Dartry Hall from 1844-1849 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
From 1844 to 1849, Dartry Hall was owned by William Wallace, the proprietor of the Dartry Mill. In 1849, he sold the house to William Drury, and it remained in his family’s ownership until 1883, when the house was bought by the industrialist and newspaper proprietor William Martin Murphy (1845-1919), who was then living nearby in Rostrevor Terrace, Rathgar.
Murphy was originally from Bantry, Co Cork. He moved to Dublin in 1875, and from 1878 he was living at No 7 Rostrevor Terrace. But within a decade of moving to Dublin he had moved into Dartry Hall.
In Murphy’s days, the grounds of Dartry House included walled gardens and a tropical greenhouse. Murphy made a number of additions to the house, including the mansard attic rooms and a turret, which was built around 1900. Although the turret can not be seen by the public today, these additions create a the image of a French chateau or even a Disney-style fantasy castle to this house in quiet, secluded corner of suburban south Dublin.
Dartry Hall in Ernest Cavanagh’s cartoon in ‘The Irish Worker’ of William ‘Murder’ Murphy
Murphy owned a number of businesses in Dublin, including the Irish Independent, Clery’s department store, the Imperial Hotel and the Metropole Hotel and the Dublin United Tramways Company (DUTC), and he was a central figure in the Dublin Lockout in 1913, when the union side was led by Jim Larkin.
Ernest Cavanagh’s cartoons in the Irish Worker in 1913 depicted Murphy at the gates of Dartry Hall, and labelled him ‘William Murder Murphy’ and ‘The Vulture of Dartry Hall.’ The poet WB Yeats also expressed his disdain for Murphy in a number of poems that had an enduring impact on Murphy’s image in subsequent generations.
James Larkin described him as ‘the most foul and vicious blackguard that ever polluted any country … a capitalistic vampire.’
Tramway House on Dartry Road, opposite a side entrance to Dartry House (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
The DUTC owned by Murphy built the tram line from the centre of Dublin to Dartry and the No 14 tram line came to an end at Dartry Hall. The terminus and the associated sheds now house an engineering firm.
Murphy was a constitutional Nationalist, and was an Irish Parliamentary Party MP for Dublin Saint Patrick’s from 1885 to 1892. Murphy sided with the majority Anti-Parnellites when the party split. However, Dublin was a Parnellite stronghold and in the bitter general election of 1892, Murphy lost his seat to a Parnellite newcomer, William Field by a wide margin of 3,991 to 1,110.
Murphy was offered a knighthood by King Edward in 1907 for his contribution to the Irish International Exhibition in Herbert Park, but it is said the offer was firmly but politely refused.
With his father-in-law James Lombard, also a Nationalist MP, Murphy built hundreds of houses in the Dublin area. Murphy died on 26 June 1919 at Dartry Hall from a heart attack caused by aortic valve disease. He is buried in an unmarked vault within the O’Connell Circle in Glasnevin Cemetery, Dublin.
Murphy was succeeded at Dartry Hall by his son, William Lombard Murphy (1876-1943), and his daughter Eva Magdalene Murphy (1883-1958), who stayed on at the house. During the Irish Civil War, Dartry Hall was attacked by Republicans because a member of the family was a pro-Treaty member of the Rathmines and Rathgar Urban District Council.
When Eva Magdalene Murphy died in 1958, Dartry Hall was sold by the Murphy family. It was bought in 1958 by the Mill Hill Fathers, a congregation of missionary priests. By then it was known as Dartry House.
While the Mill Hill Fathers were there, the house hosted the offices of many mission agencies and voluntary organisations. I regularly attended meetings of the Irish Missionary Union and other organisations in the first decade of this century, until the house and its grounds were sold.
Dartry House and about four acres of ground at Orwell Park were sold to Eugene Renehan of Walthill Properties for around €30 million in 2005.
The house underwent extensive conservation and restoration works in 2008-2009 to provide seven new spacious apartments. The architects were Niall D. Brennan Associates.
The apartments have views over and access to the listed formal gardens located beside to the house. The restoration works carried out to Dartry House sought to ensure that this building is retained as a pivotal focus for the surrounding area of Dartry and Rathgar.
The rest of the site was developed with low-density schemes of apartments and houses. The site has a southerly orientation and backs on to a large belt of trees that divide it from Dartry Park and the River Dodder.
Eugene Renehan had already converted the 18th century courtyard at Headfort Estate in Kells, Co Meath, into a residential area. His other schemes included the Moorings at Portobello Harbour and Rathmines Wood at Lower Rathmines Wood.
The Mill Hill Missionaries used the proceeds of the sale to maintain priests returning to Ireland from the missions, and built a new house, Saint Joseph’s, on part of the original site.
Two pairs of granite pillars at the original entrance to Dartry Hall (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
Six of the original and impressive granite entrance pillars at Dartry House are still standing: four in two pairs just off Orwell Park, and and a pair for a pedestian entrance on Dartry Road, near the old mill and almost opposite Tramway House.
A modern plaque on one of the pillars outside Dartry House today says the house was “lovingly restored” by Eugene Renehan in 2010, and quotes John Ruskin in The Seven Lamps of Architecture (1849): “When we build, let us think that we build for ever.”
Dartry Hall when it was the home of William Martin Murphy
For other postings on the architectural heritage of South Dublin see:
Berwick Hall.
The Bottle Tower, Churchtown.
Brookvale House, Rathfarnham.
Camberley House, Churchtown.
Dartry House, Orwell Park, Rathfarnham.
Ely Arch, Rathfarnham.
Ely House, Nutgrove Avenue, Rathfarnham.
Fernhurst, 14 Orwell Road, Rathgar.
Fortfield House, Hyde Park, Terenure.
No 201 Harold’s Cross Road, the birthplace of Richard Allen.
Homestead, Sandyford Road, Dundrum.
Kilvare House, also known as Cheeverstown House, Templeogue Road.
Knocklyon Castle.
Laurelmere Lodge, Marlay Park.
Marlay Park.
Mountain View House, Beaumont Avenue, Churchtown.
Newbrook House, Taylor’s Lane, Rathfarnham.
Old Bawn House, Tallaght.
Rathfarnham Castle.
Sally Park, Fihouse.
Scholarstown House, Knocklyon.
Silveracre House, off Sarah Curran Avenue, Rathfarnham.
Synge House, Newtwon Villas, Churchtown, and No 4 Orwell Park, Rathgar.
Templeogue House.
Washington House, Butterfield Avenue, Rathfarnham.
Westbourne House, off Rathfarnham Road.
24 May 2016
Bantry House has a story that spans
the generations and the centuries
Bantry House and Garden overlook Bantry Bay on the Wild Atlantic Way (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
Patrick Comerford
Before a long weekend in Bantry, Co Cork, came to an end, two of us visited Bantry House and Garden which overlooks Bantry Bay on the Wild Atlantic Way.
The house and garden are open during the summer season from 25 March to 30 October, and stand above the Maritime Hotel, where we were staying for the weekend, looking out onto Bantry Bay, Whiddy Island and out onto the Atlantic Ocean.
Bantry House is now owned by the Shelswell-White family, and has been the home of the White family and the Earls of Bantry since about 1765.
The house was originally called Blackrock and was built ca 1700 on the south side of Bantry Bay. The first house was owned by the Annesley family, Earls of Anglesey, who leased it to two or more generations of the Hutchinson family.
In 1750, Richard White of Limerick, who by then owned Whiddy Island, bought Blackrock from Samuel Hutchinson and changed the name to Seafield. The Whites had been merchants in Limerick before they settled on Whiddy Island across the bay in the late 17th century.
As they prospered, the White family bought considerable tracts of land in the area around the house. Richard White had an only son, Simon (1739-1776). In 1766, this Simon White married Frances Jane Hedges Eyre (1748-1816) of Mount Hedges, Co Cork, daughter of Richard Hedges Eyre and Helena Herbert of Muckross, near Killarney, Co Kerry.
Simon and Frances White had two sons, Richard White (1767-1851) and Simon White (1768-1838). Richard White would inherit the Bantry estates and become the 1st Earl of Bantry; the younger son, Simon White, married Sarah Newenham. They lived in Glengarriff Castle, Co Cork, and had four children.
Bantry House and Garden were the vision of Richard White and his descendants (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
By the 1780s, the lands around Bantry House came to 320 sq km (80,000 acres), although much of this land was not arable.
In 1796, Theobald Wolfe Tone and the United Irishmen attempted to land a formidable French armada, commanded by Admiral Hoche, in Bantry Bay. The armada included 50 naval warships and 15,000-strong force.
Richard White had heard rumours of the invasion plans and he raised and trained a loyal militia, mainly from among his tenants on the Bantry estate. He stored arms and munitions in Bantry House, and posted look-outs on both Mizen Head and Sheep’s Head, the furthest seaward reaches of Co Cork, to warn of an imminent invasion.
However, the weather was so severe that ship-to-ship communications were almost impossible, and the fleet eventually returned to Brest in France. Ten ships sank in the Atlantic waters, and the Surveillante, which was scuttled off Whiddy Island, remained on the bottom of Bantry Bay for almost 200 years until 1982.
Four guns in front of Bantry House look out onto Bantry Bay. The two smaller ones are six-pounders, made at the Carron Works in Falkirk in 1780. The larger, twelve-pounder is dated 1795 and was made at the Clyde ironworks near Glasgow. The gun stamped A4RP is French and was made at the Rouelle foundry in 1795. It may have been captured from the Surveillante before it was scuttled off Whiddy Island.
Richard White was rewarded for his loyalty during the 1796 invasion when he was made Baron Bantry in 1797. Two years later, in 1799, he married Lady Margaret Anne Hare, daughter of Viscount Ennismore, later the 1st Earl of Listowel. They had four sons and a daughter who died in infancy.
In 1801, the title was advanced from Baron Bantry to Viscount Berehaven, and in 1816 Richard was made 1st Earl of Bantry. In the same year, he donated the site for a new Church of Ireland parish church in the centre of Bantry.
His eldest son, also Richard White (1800-1868), married Lady Mary O’Brien (1805-1853) of Dromoland Castle, Co Clare, daughter of William O’Brien, 2nd Marquis of Thomond.
From the 1820s, Richard and Mary White travelled throughout Europe. They visited Russia, Scandinavia, Spain, Italy and France, collecting furniture, paintings, tapestries and artefacts, most of which are still on display in Bantry House today.
In 1851, Richard White succeeded his father as the 2nd Earl of Bantry. His father had started modest additions to Bantry House, but while he was still known as Lord Berehaven, Richard White began framing his grand visions for the house and gardens, so that the gardens we see today are mainly his creations.
He appreciated his good fortune in inheriting these titles and this estate, and laid out the gardens with seven terraces to complement the bay overlooked by his house.
The Hundred Steps were an integral part of the gardens developed by Richard White at Bantry House (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
Richard also added the wings to the house and the library, as well as a grand conservatory – which has long disappeared – facing the Hundred Steps. The two stable yards flanking Bantry House and five gate lodges were also built during his time, although only one gate lodge survives.
The gardens at Bantry House were developed by the 2nd Earl of Bantry and his wife Mary, who were inspired by their travels around Europe.
The gardens contain seven terraces, and Bantry House is located on the third terrace. Behind the house, the Hundred Steps are built so they appear to rise out of a fountain and they are surrounded by azaleas and rhododendrons.
Bantry House has been open to tourists since 1946. Since about 1990, bed and breakfast accommodation has also been available at Bantry House.
The fountain surrounded by wisteria dominates the southern aspect to the house (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
The fountain within the parterre, surrounded by Wisteria Sinenis and Wisteria Floribunda, dominates the southern aspect to the house, as do the Hundred Steps leading up to the woodland.
Richard White designed the terraces to be grassed over, with phoriums placed intermittently. They were bound with balustrades, with pots on top of each plinth. It was an architectural statement inspired by the gardens he had seen in Italy.
The north terraces, with their 14 round beds, are flanked by statues and pots the 2nd Earl of Bantry brought back from his travels. Visitors to the house are greeted by the statue of Diana the Huntress.
The statue of Diana the Huntress greets visitors on the lawns (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
Some of the statues are copies of sculptures by Antonio Canova, others are copies of classical works. In the middle of the first terrace is a rare 19th century copy of the Warwick Vase, made from Coade stone.
During the Famine Years of 1840-1860, major works were carried out on the demesne. The 2nd Earl also sat on the Conservative benches in the House of Lords as an Irish Representative Peer from 1854 to 1868.
Richard and Mary White had no children, and when Richard died in 1868, the family titles and estates passed to his younger brother, William White (1801-1884), 3rd Earl of Bantry. Until then, he had lived at Macroom Castle, which he had inherited from his great-uncle, Robert Hedges Eyre.
William, White, 3rd Earl of Bantry, married Jane Herbert (1823-1898) of Muckross House, Killarney, and they had five daughters, Elizabeth, Olivia, Ina, Jane, and Mary, and one son, William White (1854-1891). He was an Irish Representative Peer from 1869 until his death in 1884.
As the only son, William White became the 4th and last Earl of Bantry in 1884. In 1886, he married Rosamond Petre, who died in 1942. They had no children and when William died in 1891 the family titles became extinct. The estate passed through his eldest sister, Lady Elizabeth (1847-1880), wife of Egerton Leigh of High Leigh, Cheshire, to their son, Edward Leigh (1876-1920). In 1897, he became Edward Leigh-White.
However, by about 1900 Richard White’s original plans for the gardens at Bantry White seem to have been forgotten. Instead, the terraces were planted with Rhodedendron Ponticum and Luteum.
Over the years that followed, many self-seeding willows, myrtles and scrub would take hold in between the rhododendrons. The vegetation grew much too tall, obscuring the house and totally changing the layout and initial plan of the gardens.
Meanwhile, in 1904 Edward Leigh-White married Arethusa Hawker (1885-1959) of Longparish House, Hampshire. They had two daughters, Clodagh (1905-1978) and Rachel (1906-1987). Edward Leigh-White died in 1920, and was succeeded by his eldest daughter. Clodagh White married Geoffrey Shelswell (1897-1962) in 1926 and they also incorporated White into their name.
During the Irish Civil War in 1922-1923, the Cottage Hospital in Bantry was destroyed by fire. Arethusa Leigh-White offered Bantry House as a hospital to the nuns of the Convent of Mercy, who were running the hospital. Arethusa only made one proviso: that the injured on both sides of the conflict should be cared for. A chapel was set up in the library and the nuns and their patients moved in for five years.
In 1926, Clodagh Leigh-White came of age and assumed responsibility for the estate. Later that year, she travelled to Zanzibar, Africa, where she met and married Geoffrey Shelswell, then the Assistant District Commissioner of Zanzibar.
During World War II, Bantry House and the stables became a base for the Second Cyclist Squadron of the Irish Army. There are two plaques on the north wall of the house in memory of the men and the officers of the Royal Canadian Air Force who died when their plane crashed into the sea off the Fastnet Rock.
In 1946, Clodagh and Geoffrey Shelswell-White opened the doors of Bantry House to the public. Geoffrey died in 1962 and Clodagh lived in the house on her own, until her death in 1978. Clodagh and Geoffrey Shelswell-White had three children, Delia (1928-1990), Oonagh (1930-2006) and Egerton (1933-2012).
Bantry House was inherited by their son, Egerton Shelswell-White. In 1997, the extensive archives of Bantry House were donated to University College Cork, and a year later, in 1998, Bantry House hosted the first West Cork Music Festival. But by 1997, parts of the grounds of Bantry House and the gardens were suffering neglect. An EU grant helped start a restoration programme, and although funding came to an end in 2000, the restoration work continues.
In 2001, archaeologists from the University of Ulster found a mediaeval Gaelic village and a 17th century deserted English fishing settlement on the west lawn of Bantry House.
The restoration of Bantry House and the gardens is a continuing project (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
In 2010, Sophie Shelswell-White became the General Manager of Bantry House. Her father died in 2012, and Sophie now manages the estate with her mother Brigitte, her husband Josh, and her brother Sam.
In 2011, the west stable was made safe with assistance from the Heritage Council, and there are hopeful plans to restore it in the near future. Earlier this year, in March 2016, work began on cleaning out the terraces and the next step is to refine the clearings, reinstate the balustrades, with no plant being allowed to grow higher than four feet.
No pesticides are used where possible, and there are plans too to restore the Woodland walks and to make them more accessible, including the ‘Old Ladies’ Walk’ leading to the top of the Hundred Steps.
Patrick Comerford
Before a long weekend in Bantry, Co Cork, came to an end, two of us visited Bantry House and Garden which overlooks Bantry Bay on the Wild Atlantic Way.
The house and garden are open during the summer season from 25 March to 30 October, and stand above the Maritime Hotel, where we were staying for the weekend, looking out onto Bantry Bay, Whiddy Island and out onto the Atlantic Ocean.
Bantry House is now owned by the Shelswell-White family, and has been the home of the White family and the Earls of Bantry since about 1765.
The house was originally called Blackrock and was built ca 1700 on the south side of Bantry Bay. The first house was owned by the Annesley family, Earls of Anglesey, who leased it to two or more generations of the Hutchinson family.
In 1750, Richard White of Limerick, who by then owned Whiddy Island, bought Blackrock from Samuel Hutchinson and changed the name to Seafield. The Whites had been merchants in Limerick before they settled on Whiddy Island across the bay in the late 17th century.
As they prospered, the White family bought considerable tracts of land in the area around the house. Richard White had an only son, Simon (1739-1776). In 1766, this Simon White married Frances Jane Hedges Eyre (1748-1816) of Mount Hedges, Co Cork, daughter of Richard Hedges Eyre and Helena Herbert of Muckross, near Killarney, Co Kerry.
Simon and Frances White had two sons, Richard White (1767-1851) and Simon White (1768-1838). Richard White would inherit the Bantry estates and become the 1st Earl of Bantry; the younger son, Simon White, married Sarah Newenham. They lived in Glengarriff Castle, Co Cork, and had four children.
Bantry House and Garden were the vision of Richard White and his descendants (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
By the 1780s, the lands around Bantry House came to 320 sq km (80,000 acres), although much of this land was not arable.
In 1796, Theobald Wolfe Tone and the United Irishmen attempted to land a formidable French armada, commanded by Admiral Hoche, in Bantry Bay. The armada included 50 naval warships and 15,000-strong force.
Richard White had heard rumours of the invasion plans and he raised and trained a loyal militia, mainly from among his tenants on the Bantry estate. He stored arms and munitions in Bantry House, and posted look-outs on both Mizen Head and Sheep’s Head, the furthest seaward reaches of Co Cork, to warn of an imminent invasion.
However, the weather was so severe that ship-to-ship communications were almost impossible, and the fleet eventually returned to Brest in France. Ten ships sank in the Atlantic waters, and the Surveillante, which was scuttled off Whiddy Island, remained on the bottom of Bantry Bay for almost 200 years until 1982.
Four guns in front of Bantry House look out onto Bantry Bay. The two smaller ones are six-pounders, made at the Carron Works in Falkirk in 1780. The larger, twelve-pounder is dated 1795 and was made at the Clyde ironworks near Glasgow. The gun stamped A4RP is French and was made at the Rouelle foundry in 1795. It may have been captured from the Surveillante before it was scuttled off Whiddy Island.
Richard White was rewarded for his loyalty during the 1796 invasion when he was made Baron Bantry in 1797. Two years later, in 1799, he married Lady Margaret Anne Hare, daughter of Viscount Ennismore, later the 1st Earl of Listowel. They had four sons and a daughter who died in infancy.
In 1801, the title was advanced from Baron Bantry to Viscount Berehaven, and in 1816 Richard was made 1st Earl of Bantry. In the same year, he donated the site for a new Church of Ireland parish church in the centre of Bantry.
His eldest son, also Richard White (1800-1868), married Lady Mary O’Brien (1805-1853) of Dromoland Castle, Co Clare, daughter of William O’Brien, 2nd Marquis of Thomond.
From the 1820s, Richard and Mary White travelled throughout Europe. They visited Russia, Scandinavia, Spain, Italy and France, collecting furniture, paintings, tapestries and artefacts, most of which are still on display in Bantry House today.
In 1851, Richard White succeeded his father as the 2nd Earl of Bantry. His father had started modest additions to Bantry House, but while he was still known as Lord Berehaven, Richard White began framing his grand visions for the house and gardens, so that the gardens we see today are mainly his creations.
He appreciated his good fortune in inheriting these titles and this estate, and laid out the gardens with seven terraces to complement the bay overlooked by his house.
The Hundred Steps were an integral part of the gardens developed by Richard White at Bantry House (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
Richard also added the wings to the house and the library, as well as a grand conservatory – which has long disappeared – facing the Hundred Steps. The two stable yards flanking Bantry House and five gate lodges were also built during his time, although only one gate lodge survives.
The gardens at Bantry House were developed by the 2nd Earl of Bantry and his wife Mary, who were inspired by their travels around Europe.
The gardens contain seven terraces, and Bantry House is located on the third terrace. Behind the house, the Hundred Steps are built so they appear to rise out of a fountain and they are surrounded by azaleas and rhododendrons.
Bantry House has been open to tourists since 1946. Since about 1990, bed and breakfast accommodation has also been available at Bantry House.
The fountain surrounded by wisteria dominates the southern aspect to the house (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
The fountain within the parterre, surrounded by Wisteria Sinenis and Wisteria Floribunda, dominates the southern aspect to the house, as do the Hundred Steps leading up to the woodland.
Richard White designed the terraces to be grassed over, with phoriums placed intermittently. They were bound with balustrades, with pots on top of each plinth. It was an architectural statement inspired by the gardens he had seen in Italy.
The north terraces, with their 14 round beds, are flanked by statues and pots the 2nd Earl of Bantry brought back from his travels. Visitors to the house are greeted by the statue of Diana the Huntress.
The statue of Diana the Huntress greets visitors on the lawns (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
Some of the statues are copies of sculptures by Antonio Canova, others are copies of classical works. In the middle of the first terrace is a rare 19th century copy of the Warwick Vase, made from Coade stone.
During the Famine Years of 1840-1860, major works were carried out on the demesne. The 2nd Earl also sat on the Conservative benches in the House of Lords as an Irish Representative Peer from 1854 to 1868.
Richard and Mary White had no children, and when Richard died in 1868, the family titles and estates passed to his younger brother, William White (1801-1884), 3rd Earl of Bantry. Until then, he had lived at Macroom Castle, which he had inherited from his great-uncle, Robert Hedges Eyre.
William, White, 3rd Earl of Bantry, married Jane Herbert (1823-1898) of Muckross House, Killarney, and they had five daughters, Elizabeth, Olivia, Ina, Jane, and Mary, and one son, William White (1854-1891). He was an Irish Representative Peer from 1869 until his death in 1884.
As the only son, William White became the 4th and last Earl of Bantry in 1884. In 1886, he married Rosamond Petre, who died in 1942. They had no children and when William died in 1891 the family titles became extinct. The estate passed through his eldest sister, Lady Elizabeth (1847-1880), wife of Egerton Leigh of High Leigh, Cheshire, to their son, Edward Leigh (1876-1920). In 1897, he became Edward Leigh-White.
However, by about 1900 Richard White’s original plans for the gardens at Bantry White seem to have been forgotten. Instead, the terraces were planted with Rhodedendron Ponticum and Luteum.
Over the years that followed, many self-seeding willows, myrtles and scrub would take hold in between the rhododendrons. The vegetation grew much too tall, obscuring the house and totally changing the layout and initial plan of the gardens.
Meanwhile, in 1904 Edward Leigh-White married Arethusa Hawker (1885-1959) of Longparish House, Hampshire. They had two daughters, Clodagh (1905-1978) and Rachel (1906-1987). Edward Leigh-White died in 1920, and was succeeded by his eldest daughter. Clodagh White married Geoffrey Shelswell (1897-1962) in 1926 and they also incorporated White into their name.
During the Irish Civil War in 1922-1923, the Cottage Hospital in Bantry was destroyed by fire. Arethusa Leigh-White offered Bantry House as a hospital to the nuns of the Convent of Mercy, who were running the hospital. Arethusa only made one proviso: that the injured on both sides of the conflict should be cared for. A chapel was set up in the library and the nuns and their patients moved in for five years.
In 1926, Clodagh Leigh-White came of age and assumed responsibility for the estate. Later that year, she travelled to Zanzibar, Africa, where she met and married Geoffrey Shelswell, then the Assistant District Commissioner of Zanzibar.
During World War II, Bantry House and the stables became a base for the Second Cyclist Squadron of the Irish Army. There are two plaques on the north wall of the house in memory of the men and the officers of the Royal Canadian Air Force who died when their plane crashed into the sea off the Fastnet Rock.
In 1946, Clodagh and Geoffrey Shelswell-White opened the doors of Bantry House to the public. Geoffrey died in 1962 and Clodagh lived in the house on her own, until her death in 1978. Clodagh and Geoffrey Shelswell-White had three children, Delia (1928-1990), Oonagh (1930-2006) and Egerton (1933-2012).
Bantry House was inherited by their son, Egerton Shelswell-White. In 1997, the extensive archives of Bantry House were donated to University College Cork, and a year later, in 1998, Bantry House hosted the first West Cork Music Festival. But by 1997, parts of the grounds of Bantry House and the gardens were suffering neglect. An EU grant helped start a restoration programme, and although funding came to an end in 2000, the restoration work continues.
In 2001, archaeologists from the University of Ulster found a mediaeval Gaelic village and a 17th century deserted English fishing settlement on the west lawn of Bantry House.
The restoration of Bantry House and the gardens is a continuing project (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2016)
In 2010, Sophie Shelswell-White became the General Manager of Bantry House. Her father died in 2012, and Sophie now manages the estate with her mother Brigitte, her husband Josh, and her brother Sam.
In 2011, the west stable was made safe with assistance from the Heritage Council, and there are hopeful plans to restore it in the near future. Earlier this year, in March 2016, work began on cleaning out the terraces and the next step is to refine the clearings, reinstate the balustrades, with no plant being allowed to grow higher than four feet.
No pesticides are used where possible, and there are plans too to restore the Woodland walks and to make them more accessible, including the ‘Old Ladies’ Walk’ leading to the top of the Hundred Steps.
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