17 July 2019

Arkin’s Castle struggles
to survive on Inishmore
after several centuries

Arkin’s Castle on Inishmore was rebuilt in the 1650s, but dates back to the 13th century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Patrick Comerford

After climbing to the peak of the ridge overlooking Killeany on Inishmore (Inis Mór), to see Saint Benan’s Church, said to be the smallest church in Europe, two us descended again to search for Arkin’s Castle and the pier and harbour at Killeany.

We were staying at Tigh Fitz in Killeany, 2 km east of Kilronan, the main harbour and village on Inishmore, the largest of the three Aran Islands. But Killeany is said to be the original harbour of Inishmore.

Local lore says Saint Enda sailed into Killeany (Cill Einne) in a stone boat from Connemara, and that an angel opened up the harbour to him.

The Aran Islands were the key to controlling Galway Bay in the Middle Ages, and they were contested, fortified and garrisoned by competing powers throughout the mediaeval period. Records from the 13th century show payments in large amounts of wine by Galway City to the O’Brien clan to keep the shipping routes in the area free from piracy.

When I first heard of Arkin’s Castle, I thought it may have been named after a military commander or local family named Arkin. But the name appears to come from an Irish word aircín, describing a natural harbour.

Arkin’s Castle was built on the shore side of the road between Killeany pier and village (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Arkin’s Castle stands on the shore side of the road between Killeany pier and village. The castle is said to have been built in the 16th century on the site of an earlier castle that first belonged to the O’Brien family from Co Clare. The castle marks the original entrance to the ‘Port of Aran’ and its ruins stand over the remains of the mediaeval harbour. This small natural harbour was the island’s main harbour until the 19th century.

The Aran Islands continued to be controlled by a branch of the O’Brien family until the second half of the 16th century. But they were dispossessed of the island in 1565 by the O’Flahertys of Iar-Connacht, who made ‘Arkyn Castle’ their principal stronghold.

James Lynch held the castle in 1574, and Queen Elizabeth I gave Arkyn the status of a royal manor in 1587. It later passed to John Rawson in 1594 and Teige na Buille O’Flaherty in 1607.

Sir Robert Lynch obtained the islands in 1641, but the Clan Teige O’Brien tried to recover their long-lost patrimony in 1651. It was the height of the Cromwellian wars and two years after the execution of Charles I.

Lord Clanricarde, head of the Burke family, placed 200 musketeers on the Aran Islands, under the command of Sir Robert Lynch, on behalf of the Royalist cause. The fort on Inishmore was rebuilt and fortified, and the Irish royalist forces held out against the Cromwellian parliamentary forces for almost 12 months after the surrender of Galway.

The islands eventually surrendered on condition that quarter should be given to all the soldiers who had garrisoned the fort, and that they would have six weeks to make their way to Spain.

However, Sir Robert Lynch was declared a traitor and the islands were granted to Erasmus Smith, the founder of charter schools in Ireland. The Cromwellians then crushed all parties, built or repaired the castle of Arkin, and formed a penal settlement for transplanted priests.

The Cromwellian garrison demolished the nearby Franciscan Abbey, the monastery of Saint Enda and several churches on the island and purloined the stones and other material to repair the castle.

Smith sold the Aran Islands to Richard Butler, a younger son of James Butler, 1st Duke of Ormonde, and in 1662 Richard was given a number of titles, including Earl of Arran [sic], Viscount Tullogh and Baron Butler of Cloughgrennan.

Arkin’s Castle was only briefly occupied for short periods after 1700 (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The castle was only briefly occupied for short periods after 1700. A late 18th century plan of the fort shows a rectangular structure with four watchtowers – two square towers on the seaward side and two circular towers to landward.

Only one of the towers has survived, although the ruins were repaired by the Board of Public Works in 1880. Little remains of the fort today apart from a large portion of the north wall, a small tower in the south-east corner and the remains of the water gate at the western end of the curtain wall, which provided access to the castle from the sea.

The castle faces the sea, and its ruins are best viewed by looking westward from Killeany pier. The Irish Times reported back in 2003 how the castle was damaged by a bulldozer clearing an adjoining site.

Michael Gibbons, a Connemara archaeologist, criticised the Department of Environment for failing to protect national monuments after the fort’s wall was damaged by a bulldozer clearing an adjoining site.

The damage to the north-west section of the castle was the third and most serious report of damage to the fort in recent years. Galway County Council had granted planning permission for a dwelling house on the site next to the archaeological complex.

However, Michael Gibbons said at the time that this breached ‘all the rules and regulations’ and that no prior archaeological investigation had been carried out.

Arkin’s Castle has been damaged three times in recent decades (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

A 1,000-year-old oratory
on Inishmore is said to be
Europe’s smallest church

The Church of Saint Benan on Inishmore is said to be the smallest church in Europe (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Patrick Comerford

I have been staying overnight on Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands, which is linked with many Irish saints: Saint Brendan was blessed for his voyage there, and the island also has links with Saint Enda, Saint Jarlath of Tuam, Saint Finnian of Clonard and Saint Columba, who called it the ‘Sun of the West.’

In the afternoon sunshine, as it was turning to evening yesterday [15 July 2017], two of us climbed the hill opposite Tigh Fitz in Killeany (Cill Éinne or Church of Enda) to Teampall Bheanain, or the little Church of Saint Benan.

This is said to be Europe’s smallest church, some tourism leaflets even claim this is the smallest church in the world. From there, there were panoramic views across both sides of the island, with Inishmaan and Inisheer to the south east and the Cliffs of Moher in Co Clare to the east.

Saint Benan of Inishmore is identified with Saint Benignus of Armagh, who died in 467. He was the son of Sesenen, a chieftain in the area now known as Co Meath. His family may have been part of the bardic tradition.

He was baptised by Saint Patrick, his name Benen was Latinised as Benignus and he became Saint Patrick’s favourite disciple.

He followed Saint Patrick in his travels and assisted him in his missionary labours, and was known as ‘Patrick’s psalm-singer.’ Saint Benignus is also said to have been secretary to the Commission of Nine, which had been directed to compile the Brehon Laws.

Saint Benignus is said to have contributed materials for the Psalter of Cashel, and the Book of Rights. He succeeded Saint Patrick’s nephew Sechnall as coadjutor and became the first rector of the Cathedral School of Armagh. It is said he became Saint Patrick’s coadjutor in Armagh around AD 450.

He is said to have been present at the synod that passed the canon found in the Book of Armagh recognising ‘the See Of the Apostle Peter’ as the final court of appeals in difficult cases. Saint Benignus resigned as coadjutor in 467 and died later that year. His feast is celebrated on 9 November.

He is also identified with the Saint Benignus who founded Kilbannon, near Tuam, Co Galway However, Tirechán’s collections in the Book of Armagh states that Saint Benignus of Kilbannon was the son of Lugni of Connaught. Saint Benignus of Kilbannon had a famous monastery, where Saint Jarlath was educated, and he presided over Drumlease. His sister Mathona was the Abbess of Tawney, in Tirerrill.

In Co Cavan, he established a monastery on Drom Benen (Hill of Benan), today's Drumbannon. Anther monastery with his name was at Cill Benen (Church of Benan) in Kilbonane, West Cork.

The Church of Saint Benan on Inishmore is may have been an oratory that was part of larger monastic settlement (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The oratory at Teampall Bheanáin (‘Benen’s House) outside Kilronan on Inishmore, is said to mark the location of the original monastic settlement founded by Saint Benen. The building dates from the 11th century, and has stood unaltered for 1,000 years.

However, this is not a conventional church in the sense of being a monastic or parish church. It was probably the tomb-shrine of the saint. This ensured its survival when material from the adjacent round tower and mediaeval monastery were purloined to fortify the now-ruined Arkin’s Castle, a Cromwellian fortress on the coast below the oratory.

The oratory stands on a high ridge that dominates the windward, south-east sea approach to the Kilronan, the main port of Inishmore, and, depending on the sunlight and time of day, it provides a striking silhouette against the skyline.

Saint Benan’s Church is built on a south/north axis, rather than the traditional east/west axis (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

The church is built on a south/north axis, rather than the traditional east/west axis, probably to take advantage of the ridge on which it stands, and because this is a particularly exposed and windy site.

This is said to be the smallest church in Ireland, if not in Europe, although I doubt it is the smallest church in the world. Its size indicates Saint Benan’s Church was probably the oratory of a hermit. The church no longer has a roof and has unusually high squared gables. Inside, it measures only 3.2 metres x 2.1 metres, and its gables are about 3.2 metres high.

It is built of massive stone blocks, and one single slab forms half of one side. It is bonded by mortar and very careful fitting. The thick walls are pierced by a traveated, three-beam, narrow north doorway, with inclining jambs and a cut-away lintel. A small, single stone semi-circular window on one side looks out onto the mainland.

Nearby are the remains of a cashel wall, a dwelling structure, and a small beehive hut or clochán.

The stump of a round tower on the slopes beneath Saint Benan’s Church (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)

Downhill, below the church, are the remains of a monastery – the stump of a round tower and the remains of a Celtic cross – that was part of the large monastic village established by Saint Enda in the sixth century.

The views over Cill Éinne Bay are breath-taking, and it was interesting to see the number of people who had climbed up the ridge to this remote oratory and took the time to enjoy the views, spend time in reflection and, perhaps, even pray for a while.

Saint Benan’s Church offers breath-taking views over Cill Éinne Bay (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2019)