06 December 2012

A visit to Stormont and Dundonald

The long avenue leading up to Stormont (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)

Patrick Comerford

I was in Dundonald, Co Down, earlier today l in Saint Elizabeth’s, a 1960s-style Church of Ireland parish church in suburban East Belfast, standing in the grounds of an earlier church built in the late 18th or early 19th century.

Until the 1960s, Dundonald was a small village, but Dundonald and neighbouring Ballybeen now include many new housing estates. However, the area has a long history and Dundonald takes its name from Dún Dónaill, a 12th century Norman fort.

The remains of the fort on which the motte or moat of Dundonald once stood, seen from Saint Elizabeth’s Churchyard (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)

The man-built hill on which the fort stood is still clearly visible from the graveyard at Saint Elizabeth’s. The mound is known locally as “The Moat” but the structure is a “motte” or defensive structure built in the style of a motte and bailey.

Close to the Moat, the other prominent site of interest in Dundonald is the Cleland Mausoleum in Saint Elizabeth’s Churchyard.

The Cleland Mausoleum in Saint Elizabeth’s Churchyard, Dundonald (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)

The Cleland Mausoleum is built of blue granite, with columns and canopy. One side has this inscription:

“This Mausoleum was erected by Eliza Cleland in memory of her husband Samuel Cleland of Stormont Esqr who died the 25th May 1842 aged 34 years. His earthly remains with those of his parents and several of his progenitors are here entombed.”

In his History of County Down, Dr Alex Knox said Samuel Cleland was accidentally crushed by a falling wall. The Clelands, who lived at Stormont Castle, were the patrons of Dundonald Parish until Disestablishment.

The original Saint Elizabeth’s stands forlorn in the churchyard in Dundonald (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)

During my short visit today I was unable to find a flat stone near the centre of the graveyard that is said to be inscribed:

There lies interred beneath this stone
The Commodore who oftimes shone
In cracking jokes with many a guest
And chanting songs in merry taste
Punctual and just in all his dealings
Yet said himself he had his failings
Bad qualities if he had any
Were very few, his good ones many
His heart and hand were always ready
To serve the poor and help the needy,
Had gratitude in high perfection
And died in hopes of Resurrection
. 20 May 1776. Aged 48 years.


Surprisingly, the name of the Commodore is omitted from his tombstone. Who was he?

Another broken slab in the graveyard is said to include unfortunate examples of punctuation and spelling. It is said to be inscribed in part:

Lieut. Colonel Robert McLeroth late of the 57th regt. He entered His Majesty’s service in 1769, his promotion – his merit; alone he served in the American War, was a brave and popular officer a benevolent and kind brother uncle and friend to all his relatives he died 26th March 1805 in the sixty-fifth year of his age regretted by all his acquaintances and Freinds.

The semicolon after “merit” should have been inserted after “alone” – making it “merit alone.” Would any gallant soldier claim credit for having served “alone” in the American War? Could any man be “a kind brother, uncle, and friend to all his relatives”? And, what about the misspelling of the word “friends” the second time?

There are memorials too to the Revd James Caldwell of Dundonald Presbyterian Church, who is described as “an Israelite in whom there was no guile”; to the Revd Robert Vance, Rector of Saint Catherine’s, Dublin, for 33 years, with the scriptural quotation, “Let him alone. Let no man move his bones” (II Kings 23: 18); and to the Revd Roger Moore Dillon, who died in 1851 – although there is no description of this Roger Moore as “The Saint.”

On our way back from Dundonald, three of us stopped at Stormont to view the impressive parliamentary buildings, standing in the grounds of the former Cleland family home.

With the Saints through Advent (7): 6 December, Saint Nicholas of Myra

An icon of Saint Nicholas at the west end of Saint Nicholas’s Cathedral in Newcastle in northern England (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Patrick Comerford

Today [6 December 2012], the Church commemorates Saint Nicholas, Bishop of Myra, one of the fathers of the Council of Nicaea, and the role model for Santa Claus.

Saint Nicholas (Άγιος Νικόλαος, Aghios Nikólaos, “Victory of the People”) was Nicholas of Myra in Lycia, now known as Demre, near Antalya in present-day Turkey. Because of the many miracles associated with Saint Nicholas, he is also known as Saint Nicholas the Wonderworker. He had a reputation as a secret giver of gifts, such as putting coins in the shoes of those who left them out for him, and because of this, perhaps, was transformed into our present-day Santa Claus.

Saint Nicholas is also the patron saint of sailors, seafarers, merchants, archers, pawn brokers, children and students, and the patron saint of Amsterdam, Liverpool and Russia.

According to legend, as a young man Nicholas was sent as a student to Alexandria. During the sea voyage from Myra and Alexandria, he is said to have saved the life of a sailor who fell from the ship’s rigging in a storm. In one version of the story, on their arrival back in Myra Nicholas took the sailor to church. The previous Bishop of Myra had just died, and the freshly-returned, heroic Nicholas was elected his successor.

Another story tells how in the middle of a famine, a butcher lured three little children into his house, slaughtered and butchered them, and put their bodies in a pork barrel to sell them off as meat pies. Saint Nicholas, who heard of the butcher’s horrific plans, raised the three boys back to life from the barrel through his prayers.

The best-known story about the bishop tells how a poor man had three daughters but could not afford a proper dowry for them. This meant that they would remain unmarried and probably end up as prostitutes. Hearing of their plight, Nicholas secretly went to their house under the cover of dark and threw three purses filled with gold, one for each daughter, through the window or down the chimney.

Saint Nicholas, Defender of the Church

Saint Nicholas’, the Church of Ireland parish church in Dundalk, Co Louth, is known locally as the ‘Green Church’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Personally, I prefer the stories that link Saint Nicholas with the defence of true Christian doctrine. In the year 325, the Emperor Constantine convened the Council of Nicaea to debate the nature of the Holy Trinity. It was one of the early Church’s most intense theological questions. Arius from Alexandria was teaching that Jesus Christ was the Son of God but was not equal to God the Father.

As Arius argued his position at length, it is said that Nicholas became agitated to the point that he could no longer bear the attacks on what he believed was essential to the faith. The outraged Nicholas got up, crossed the room, and slapped Arius across the face!

The shocked bishops stripped Nicholas of his episcopal robes, chained him in jail, and barred him from the meeting. In the morning, they found his chains loose on the floor and Nicholas dressed in his episcopal robes, quietly reading the Scriptures.

Constantine ordered his release, and promptly reinstated Nicholas as Bishop of Myra. As the debate continued, the Council of Nicaea agreed with his views, deciding against Arius, and agreeing on the Nicene Creed, which remains the symbol of our faith.

From Myra to Ireland

Saint Nicholas ... said to be the oldest parish church in the west of Ireland (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Over the past few years, I have visited a number of churches and cathedrals, islands and towns, associated with Saint Nicholas, including: Aghios Nikolaos in Crete; churches named after Saint Nicholas in Galway, Dundalk, Co Louth, and Adare, Co Limerick; the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas in Newcastle, England; the former Nerantze Mosque in Rethymnon, which was converted into a Church in 1925 with a dedication to Saint Nicholas after the last Turks left the town; the Venetian Cathedral of San Nicolo or Saint Nicholas on the Fortezza in Rethymnon, which the Turks converted into the Sultan Ibrahim Han Mosque; the Church of Aghios Nikolaos Rangava in Athens; and the abandoned Church of Saint Nicholas on the deserted the Island of Gemile, about 9 km south of Fethiye and off the Aegean coast of Turkey.

Saint Nicholas Church, Adare, Co Limerick (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

As the patron saint of sailors, Saint Nicholas was a popular saint among mediaeval seafarers and gave his name to churches in many port cities, including Saint Nicholas Within-the-Walls in Dublin’s Liberties, dating from 1166, Saint Nicholas Without-the-Walls, a parish church that was contained within Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, from 1192, and the Collegiate Church of Saint Nicholas in Galway.

Christopher Columbus named a port in Haiti after Saint Nicholas on 6 December 1492 – perhaps recalling his stop-off in Galway on his way to the New World, and prayers in Saint Nicholas Collegiate Church.

An old church in Aghios Nikólaos ... a reminder of how the Christian faith and the Christmas message have survived since the days of the first ‘Santa Claus’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

In eastern Crete, I have often visited the harbour town of Aghios Nikólaos (Άγιος Νικόλαος), which is in an attractive location on the Gulf of Mirabello. The town is built around an inner lagoon, Voulismeni, which is surrounded by palm trees and cafés. Modern hotels and apartments may dwarf surviving older buildings, but it is still a charming place, and local people love trying to convince visiting tourists that the lake is bottomless.

The town takes its name from the tiny 11th century church of Aghios Nikólaos. Many years ago, on my first visit to the town, a visit to this Church of Aghios Nikólaos with its icons of the saint was enough to end the doubts about Santa Claus that were beginning to emerge in hearts of two small children.

Saint Nicholas Island off the coast of Fethiye: the church ruins are all that remains of a once vibrant Christian community (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Saint Nicholas also gave his name to the monastic island of Saint Nicholas, now known as Gemile Island, close to the Ölüdeniz Lagoon and about 9 km south of Fethiye on the Anatolian coast of Turkey.

The island is just beneath the town of Levessi or Kayaköy. It was a prominent religious centre and place of pilgrimage until it was captured by the Turks, and had been a port of call for commercial and cruising vessels from Europe and the Eastern Mediterranean.

Saint Nicholas Island had numerous churches and chapels, and a number of ecclesiastical schools, and island remained home to a significant Greek-speaking population until the last century. Then, like their neighbours in the nearby mainland town of Levessi, above the Ölüdeniz Lagoon, they were forced to leave their homes in the horrific wave of “ethnic cleansing” that swept Anatolia in the 1920s.

Since 1990, a surface survey has been carried out by a Japanese team, which has unearthed 11 churches on and around the island. Although the island is a protected area, tourists pile onto it every day during the holiday season as part of their sailing tour of the Twelve Islands off the coast of Fethiye. As they trek through the former villages, streets and island homes carved into the rocks, making their way up the rocky terrain to the ruined Church of Saint Nicholas at the top of the mountain, few notice the ruins that were once family homes and sacred places of worship. Fewer still ask about the original inhabitants, why they were forced to leave the island, or why their churches and chapels no longer echo with the sound and singing of the Liturgy.

The people of Levessi and their distressing story inspired the novel Birds Without Wings (2004), written by Louis de Bernières as his prequel to Captain Corelli’s Mandolin (1993). But the fate of the people of Saint Nicholas Island has been forgotten and their memory wiped away.

From Europe to America

The Venetian Cathedral of Saint Nicholas on the Fortezza in Rethymnon was converted into the Sultan Ibrahim Han Mosque (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2012)

But how did the kindly Bishop Nicholas end up as a roly-poly red-suited American symbol for a secular holiday festivity and commercial busyness?

The first European seafarers to arrive in North America brought their devotion to Saint Nicholas with them: the Vikings dedicated a cathedral to him in Greenland; and centuries later in Florida, the Spaniards named an early settlement Saint Nicholas Ferry – although it’s now known as Jacksonville.

Although it is widely claimed that the Dutch brought Saint Nicholas to their colonies, there is scant evidence to support traditions that he was popular in Dutch New Netherlands, although the colonial Germans in Pennsylvania kept this feast-day and the people of New Amsterdam (New York) later celebrated visits by Saint Nicholas on New Year’s Eve.

An unhistorical history

However, after the American Revolution, New Yorkers remembered with pride the colony’s nearly-forgotten Dutch roots. John Pintard, who formed the New York Historical Society in 1804, promoted Saint Nicholas as the patron of his society and of his city. In January 1809, Washington Irving joined the society and in that year he published the satirical fiction, Knickerbocker’s History of New York, with numerous references to a jolly Saint Nicholas character – not a saintly bishop, but an elfin Dutch burgher with a clay pipe.

And so began the legends about Saint Nicholas and New Amsterdam: that the first Dutch emigrant ship had a figurehead of Saint Nicholas; that Saint Nicholas Day was observed in the colony; that the first church was dedicated to him; and that Saint Nicholas comes down chimneys to bring gifts.

The New York Historical Society held its first Saint Nicholas anniversary dinner on 6 December 1810, and in an image by Alexander Anderson for the occasion, Nicholas was shown in a gift-giving role with children’s treats in stockings hanging at a fireplace.

The jolly elf image was reinforced in 1823, with the publication of the poem, A Visit from Saint Nicholas, now better known as The Night Before Christmas, drawing on Washington Irving’s images of Saint Nicholas. The poem is usually attributed to Clement Clark Moore (1779-1863), Professor of Biblical Languages at the Episcopal General Theological Seminary in New York.

Other artists and writers continued the transformation of Nicholas from a saintly bishop to an elf-like jolly, rotund gift-giver. In 1863, the political cartoonist Thomas Nast began a series of black-and-white drawings in Harper’s Weekly, based on the descriptions in Moore’s poem and Washington Irving’s fiction. These drawings established a rotund Santa with flowing beard, fur garments, and a clay pipe. Along with his changed appearance changes, the saint’s name shifted to Santa Claus – a natural phonetic alteration from the German Sankt Niklaus and the Dutch Sinterklaas.

By the end of the 1920s, a standard American Santa – life-sized, dressed in a red, fur-trimmed suit – was being portrayed in illustrations by N.C. Wyeth, Norman Rockwell and other popular illustrators. In 1931, Coca Cola began 35 years of Santa advertisements that popularised and firmly established this Santa as an icon of contemporary commercial culture.

This Santa appeared in magazines, on billboards, and shop counters, encouraging Americans to see Coke as the solution to “a thirst for all seasons.” Soon he was being used in commercial promotions right across America. Santa’s commercial appeal and success led to the North American Santa Claus being exported around the world, displacing the European Saint. Nicholas, who until then, had managed to hold on to his identity as a Christian bishop and saint.

The saint as role model

As Christmas approaches, I think of Saint Nicholas as the bishop who cared for the poor, was the patron saint of children and seafarers, the generous and benevolent dispenser of gifts, the defender and rescuer of children in distress and poverty and who were in danger of exploitation and abuse, and the defender of Orthodox Christian doctrine.

Saint Nicholas remains a model for how all Christians – especially priests and bishops – are meant to live, with Christ not just at the centre of our Christmas festivities this year, but at the centre of our lives every year.

Tomorrow (7 December): Saint Ambrose, Bishop of Milan, Teacher of the Faith.

Canon Patrick Comerford is Lecturer in Anglicanism and Liturgy, the Church of Ireland Theological Institute, and a canon of Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin