Showing posts with label Naples. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Naples. Show all posts

10 November 2023

Daily prayers in the Kingdom Season
with USPG: (6) 10 November 2023

The Church of Saint Francis in Sorrento is near Villa Comunale park and Piazza Tasso, and dates from the eighth century (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Patrick Comerford

In this time between All Saints’ Day and Advent Sunday, we are in the Kingdom Season in the Calendar of the Church of England, and the week began with the Fourth Sunday before Advent (5 November 2023).

The Calendar of the Church of England in Common Worship today (10 November) remembers Leo the Great (461), Bishop of Rome, Teacher of the Faith.

Before today begins, I am taking some time for prayer and reflection early this morning.

In recent prayer diaries on this blog, my reflections have already looked at a number of Italian cathedrals, including the cathedrals in Amalfi, Florence, Lucca, Noto, Pisa, Ravenna, Saint Peter’s Basilica and Saint John Lateran, Rome, Siena, Sorrento, Syracuse, Taormina, Torcello and Venice.

So, this week, my reflections look at some more Italian cathedrals, basilicas and churches in Bologna, San Marino, Pistoia, San Gimignano, Mestre, Sorrento and Ravello.

Throughout this week, my reflections each morning are following this pattern:

1, A reflection on an Italian cathedral or basilica;

2, the Gospel reading of the day in the Church of England lectionary;

3, a prayer from the USPG prayer diary.

Inside the Church of Saint Francis in Sorrento, often a venue for classical musical concerts (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Chiesa e Chiostro di San Francesco, Sorrento:

Sorrento on high cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea is a popular tourist destination overlooking the Bay of Naples in southern Italy. It is within easy reach of Naples, Pompei, Vesuvius, the Isle of Capri and the Amalfi Coast.

In the mythology, according to the Greek historian Diodorus Siculus, Sorrento was founded by Liparus, son of Ausonus, who was king of the Ausoni and the son of Ulysses and Circe. In classical times, there were temples of Athena and of the Sirens. This was the only temple of the Sirens in the Greek world, and may explain the origins of the town’s name.

During the War of Italian Unification, Sorrento was officially annexed to the new Kingdom of Italy in 1861. It became one of the most renowned tourist destinations in Italy, and famous visitors in the past have included Byron, Keats, Goethe, Nietzsche, Ibsen and Walter Scott.

The Chiesa di San Francesco is near Villa Comunale park, and just a five-minute walk from Piazza Tasso. The white stucco and modern-looking façade masks the building’s ancient history. It dates back to the eighth century, when an oratory was built on the site by Saint Antonino, the patron saint of Sorrento, who dedicated the small church to Saint Martin of Tours (feastday, 11 November).

The Franciscans transformed the place into a much larger church in the 14th century and dedicated it to Saint Francis of Assisi. To mark the seventh centenary of the death of San Francis, the church façade was updated in 1926 with a marble finish, but the beautifully carved 16th-century wooden door was retained.

Four steps lead up to the recently-restored 16th-century main door. Inside, the church has a single aisle, and there are three chapels along each side, dedicated to Saint Rita da Cascia, Mary Immaculate, Saint Francis of Assisi, Saint Anthony of Padua, and other saints. The painting above the High Altar shows Saint Francis receiving the stigmata and dates from 1735.

Other works of art in the church including paintings and a wooden statue of Saint Francis and the crucified Christ. The vaulted ceiling of the nave has Baroque stucco decorations. A magnificent painting In the friars’ reception room, dating from 1500 and attributed to Friar Joannes Baptista, depicts the Madonna with the Christ Child between Saint Michael the Archangel and Saint John the Baptist.

Mass on Saturday evenings is usually in English and the church is often a venue for classical musical concerts.

The municipal seat was located in the church in the late 1400s and early 1500s, and it was the venue for several meetings of the city council. The town seal and municipal documents were kept in the sacristy in the 14th century in a box that could only be opened with four different keys.

Beside the church, the Franciscan convent has cloisters with columns and arches that have a hybrid mixture of architectural styles, from the fourth to the 16th century, with Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Arabic influences.

These tranquil, secluded cloisters, with overhanging bougainvillea, colourful summer flowers and tree-shaded corners, have a quiet, contemplative environment, where trees and plants curl around the interlaced arches and snake up the stone pillars.,

The cloisters are considered to be one of Sorrento’s finest historical attractions and are often the venue for weddings, art exhibitions and concerts.

The Public Gardens of Sorrento nearby offer splendid views of the Gulf of Naples.

A statue of Saint Francis of Assisi in the cloister gardens beside the church (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Matthew 16: 13-19 (NRSVA):

13 Now when Jesus came into the district of Caesarea Philippi, he asked his disciples, ‘Who do people say that the Son of Man is?’ 14 And they said, ‘Some say John the Baptist, but others Elijah, and still others Jeremiah or one of the prophets.’ 15 He said to them, ‘But who do you say that I am?’ 16 Simon Peter answered, ‘You are the Messiah, the Son of the living God.’ 17 And Jesus answered him, ‘Blessed are you, Simon son of Jonah! For flesh and blood has not revealed this to you, but my Father in heaven. 18 And I tell you, you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church, and the gates of Hades will not prevail against it. 19 I will give you the keys of the kingdom of heaven, and whatever you bind on earth will be bound in heaven, and whatever you loose on earth will be loosed in heaven.’

The cloisters are one of Sorrento’s finest historical attractions and often the venue for weddings, art exhibitions and concerts (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Today’s Prayers (Friday 10 November 2023):

The theme this week in ‘Pray With the World Church,’ the Prayer Diary of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel), is ‘Community Health Programmes’. This theme was introduced on Sunday.

The USPG Prayer Diary today (10 November 2023) invites us to pray in these words:

Let us pray for community health programmes, both in Bangladesh and across the Anglican Communion. For the healing and care they provide.

The cloisters have columns and arches with a hybrid mixture of architectural styles (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

The Collect:

God our Father,
who made your servant Leo strong in the defence of the faith:
fill your Church with the spirit of truth
that, guided by humility and governed by love,
she may prevail against the powers of evil;
through Jesus Christ your Son our Lord,
who is alive and reigns with you,
in the unity of the Holy Spirit,
one God, now and for ever.

The Post-Communion Prayer:

God of truth,
whose Wisdom set her table
and invited us to eat the bread and drink the wine
of the kingdom:
help us to lay aside all foolishness
and to live and walk in the way of insight,
that we may come with Leo to the eternal feast of heaven;
through Jesus Christ our Lord.

Yesterday’s Reflection

Continued Tomorrow

The Piazza Tasso is at the heart of life for most tourists in Sorrento (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Scripture quotations are from the New Revised Standard Version Bible: Anglicised Edition copyright © 1989, 1995, National Council of the Churches of Christ in the United States of America. Used by permission. All rights reserved worldwide. http://nrsvbibles.org

Sorrento sits on high cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea and is a popular tourist destination overlooking the Bay of Naples (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

29 April 2023

Save your love – and a red rose –
for a romantic dinner in Tamworth

Renato’s has gone from Little Church Lane in Tamworth … and, with it, romantic dinners to the sound of ‘Save Your Love’ (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2023)

Patrick Comerford

I have been back in Tamworth regularly in recent months, and we passed through Tamworth again twice this week on our way to the ‘Library and Legacy’ exhibition in Lichfield Cathedral … peering out the train window each time between Lichfield and Tamworth for the familiar glimpse of Comberford and Comberford Hall.

Each time I am back in Tamworth, I stop to visit and pray in the Comberford Chapel in the north transept of Saint Editha’s Church and also drop past the Moat House, the former Comberford family home on Lichfield Street, now a pub and restaurant. But over the past year I have also imagined how it would be romantic to have dinner in Renato’s Restaurant on Little Church Lane, close to the north side of Saint Editha’s Church.

For many years, the singer Renato Pagliari wooed diners in his son’s restaurant, singing the Renée and Renato hit from the early 1980s, ‘Save Your Love.’

Perhaps you think a 40-year-old song like that over your pasta or lasagne could be more like treacle than Pinot Grigio – or, more kindly, too sweet a return to Top of the Pops in the 1980s. But I like the idea of a red rose and a romantic dinner to the sound in the background of the lyrics:

Save your love my darling, save your love
For summer nights with moon and stars above
A serenade I long to sing you
The reddest rose I always bring you
Save your love for Roma and for me

Darling I will love you endlessly …
Love like ours will last eternally


Renée and Renato had a Christmas No 1 hit in December 1982 with ‘Save Your Love.’

Renato Pagliari, who lived most of his life in the West Midlands and spent many of his retirement days, and evenings, in Tamworth, was born on 28 June 1940 into a large, impoverished family in Blera, a village outside Rome.

From an early age, Renato had a talent for musical talent and as a boy he joined the local church choir. At 17, he won a place in a school for professional waiters, and there he also learned four languages. He became well-known as a singing waiter, happy to burst out into Neapolitan songs and operatic arias, and restaurateurs soon appreciated his ability to draw in diners.

By the early 1970s, he was working in restaurants in England and entertaining diners in the West Midlands. Delighted customers encouraged him to seek club engagements, and in 1975 he entered a regional heat for the ITV talent show ‘New Faces.’

The songwriter Johnny Edward, who had written the song ‘Save Your Love,’ was watching the show and was impressed with Renato’s tenor voice. Johnny Edward teamed up Renato with the Midlands singer Hilary Lester (now Hilary Gibbon), and the two were renamed Renée and Renato.

After many delays and problems, Renée and Renato recorded ‘Save Your Love’ in 1982, and they entered the charts at No 54 that October. Within weeks, their song became the No 1 hit that Christmas.

A year earlier, in 1981, Renato had recorded his version of ‘Just One Cornetto’ in a celebrated Wall’s ice-cream television commercial. Renato’s son, Remo, denies he had provided the voice-over, and nit-pickers quibbled that while the setting was transformed into Venice, the jingle was adapted from ‘O Sole Mio’, a song written in Naples.

Renée was always at pains to stress that Renée and Renato were never ‘an item.’ She never appeared in the celebrated video, and instead a stand-in took her place.

Their follow-up numbers, ‘Just One More Kiss’ and ‘Jesus Loves Us All,’ had little success. But ‘Save Your Love’ was a big enough hit to launch a number of international tours. After four years, Hilary ‘Renée’ Lester joined another group, and when the fame died down she returned to private life. Renato, on the other hand continued working as a solo singer and found regular spots as a singer on cruise ships. He also recorded six solo albums, and had a regular guest spot on the television comedy show ‘Little and Large.’

Renato was a fan of Aston Villa FC and in the early 1990s he was asked by manager Ron Atkinson to sing Puccini’s ‘Nessun dorma’ at half time following a particularly poor first half performance by the team. When he had finished singing, Ron Atkinson told the players, ‘Now that is passion! Go and show me some of that in the second half!’ Aston Villa went on to win that year's League Cup.

Atkinson later boasted that only Luciano Pavarotti could sing ‘Nessun Dorma’ better than Renato.

In his last few years, Renato had regular singing appearances at the now-closed Renato’s Italian Ristorante in Little Church Lane, Tamworth

In his last few years, Renato had regular singing appearances at Renato’s Italian Ristorante in Little Church Lane, Tamworth. Renato’s was run by his son, Remo Pagliari, and claimed to be ‘one of the best Italian restaurants in Tamworth.’

Although Renato was diagnosed with a brain tumour, he could still break into song on the wards during his hospital stays. After battling the tumour for several months, he died at Good Hope Hospital, Sutton Coldfield, on 29 July 2009, aged 69. His funeral took place in Holy Trinity Catholic Church, on Lichfield Road, Sutton Coldfield. Ron Atkinson and singer Tony Christie – and Renée – were among the 700 people at his funeral.

Renato’s Restaurant later become Daquino Cucina Italiana. Under both names it was noted for its Italian cuisine, including seafood pasta, Mediterranean chicken and prawns, tiramisu, ice cream, cheesecake and coffee. Sadly, though, the place closed and the premises are now the Woodshed Burger Co.

But now I’m also wondering whether, in his various restaurant engagements in Tamworth, Renato ever sang in the Moat House too back in the 1980s or 1990s?



Save your love my darling, save your love
For summer nights with moon and stars above
A serenade I long to sing you
The reddest rose I always bring you
Save your love for Roma and for me

Darling I will love you endlessly
Even though you’re far away from me
I can’t forget the words I told you
How it felt to love and hold you
Love like ours will last eternally

Save your love my darling, save your love
For summer nights with moon and stars above
A serenade I long to sing you
The reddest rose I always bring you
Save your love for Roma and for me

Even though it’s been so very long
The memory of our love still lingers on
I can't wait to hold and kiss you
Don't you know how much I miss you
Darling sing for me our lover's song

Salva l’amore cara salva l’amore
Le notte d’estate la luna l’estelle lassu
A serenade I long to sing you
The reddest rose I always bring you
Salva l’amore per Roma e per me

Io ti amo caro, I love you
I can’t wait to hold and kiss you
Don’t you know how much I miss you
Darling sing for me our lover’s song

Save your love my darling save your love
Oh you know that I will
For summer nights with moon and stars above
Oh I love you still
A serenade I long to sing you
The reddest rose I always bring you
Save your love for Roma and for me



23 August 2021

Penelope Smyth, the woman
from West Waterford who
became an Italian princess

The memorial to Princess Penelope in Saint Mary’s Collegiate Church, Youghal … she was born Penelope Caroline Smyth in Co Waterford (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

Patrick Comerford

‘If only those walls could talk.’

As I was being guided around Saint Mary’s Collegiate Church, Youghal, Co Cork, early last week, I noticed a large number of plaques on the walls, including one that tells the story of Penelope Smyth who became Princess Penelope of Capua. She was born in Co Waterford, between Youghal and Lismore, and – had history taken a different twist or turn – she might have ended her days as Queen of Greece, or Queen of Belgium.

The memorial commemorating her in Saint Mary’s Collegiate Church reads:

‘In memoriam Her Royal Highness Penelope Caroline, Princess of Capua, daughter of Grice Smyth Esqr of Ballynatray, Co Waterford, born 19th July 1805, died 13th December 1882. The beloved wife & faithful widow of His Royal Highness Carlo Ferdinando Di Borbonne, Prince of Capua, who died 2nd April 1862.

‘This memorial devoted to a devoted and lamented mother is erected by her loving and beloved son & daughter, His Royal Highness Prince Francesco Carlo di Borbonne and Her Royal Highness Victoria Augusta Ludovica Isabella Amelia Philomina Helena Penelope di Borbonne Capua.

‘“Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord” Rev. XIV 13.’

Princess Penelope was born in Co Waterford on 19 July 1805, while her husband, a member of the long-tailed Bourbon dynasty, was six years her junior. They met in the mid-1830s, romance was in the air, and on 5 April 1836 they eloped to Scotland and married at Gretna Green.

But their hasty marriage was not met with approval from the prince’s family. He had defied a royal decree that all royals required the king’s permission marry. In this case, the king was Carlo’s brother, King Ferdinand II of the Two Sicilies, a kingdom based in Naples that included Sicily and much of southern Italy.

The couple began their honeymoon in exile. Then, in an unusual turn of events, the couple remarried a month later. But this second marriage did not meet the king’s approval either.

The couple remained in exile until his brother’s death. They had two children, Francesco and Vittoria, and remained devoted to each other until Carlo died on 2 April 1862. Their son Francesco died soon after.

Princess Penelope lived for another 20 years in a villa in Lucca, Italy, and died on 13 December 1882.

The family feud between the Smyths of Ballynatray and their royal relatives were said in Victorian society in Ireland to be ‘matters of much Neapolitan, not to say European, notoriety.’

Penelope Caroline Smyth was the second daughter of Grice and Mary Smyth of Ballynatray. She was born in 1815 and grew up on the banks of the Blackwater in Ballynatray.

The king refused to recognise the marriage because Penelope was not of royal blood. When the king refused to change his heart, the Italian prince and the Irish princess abandoned Naples and settled in Malta where they raised two children.

The title ‘Prince of Capua’ was traditionally given to the second sons of the Kings of the Two Sicilies.

Prince Francesco Carlo di Borbonne was born in Palermo on 10 November 1811. His father, Francesco I (1777-1830), was King of Naples; his mother was the Infanta of Spain. When their father died in 1830, Carlo’s elder brother, Ferdinand II (1810-1859), became King of the Two Sicilies (1810-1859). Between March and June 1829, the Neapolitan government put Carlo forward as a candidate for the Greek throne in 1829, and he was a candidate to become King of Belgium in 1831.

There were rumours that Penelope and Carlo had an earlier, private marriage at the Villa Reale di Marlia, near Lucca.

On 8 March 1836, her brother Richard Smyth received an irate letter from the manager of the Pantechnicon Carriage Makers in Belgrave Square, London, claiming Penelope had borrowed £45 in cash from them shortly before disappearing to Naples.

Later that month, Penelope wrote to Richard at Ballynatray, telling how she had been received in a ‘most cordial manner’ by Carlo’s sister Marie Christina, the Regent of Spain. ‘She embraced me several times and repeated that I should call her “Sister” and not “Majesty”!!’

Carlo and Penelope arrived at Gretna Green in Scotland and were married on 5 April 1836, perhaps not just once but twice. And, they were married on at least three further occasions – in Madrid, in Rome, by Cardinal Thomas Weld, a nephew-in-law from her first marriage of Mrs Fitzherbert, and, finally, in the fashionable Saint George’s Church in Hanover Square, London, on 8 May 1836.

The stories of multiple marriages echo the stories of the four marriages of her contemporary, Caroline Shirley (1818-1897), illegitimate daughter of Lord Tamworth, and Don Lorenzo Montani Sforza Cesarini (1807-1866), Duke of Segni, a year later, in 1837.

Penelope and her Prince abandoned Naples and went into exile in Malta. There they built a new palace, Selma Hall, and lived as exiles for the next 14 years. They were the parents of two children: Prince Francesco Ferdinando Carlo di Capua (1837-1918), Count di Mascali (1837-1918), and Princess Vittoria di Borbonne (1838-1895).

Negotiations in 1838 tried to secure the right of the Prince of Capua to return to Naples, with a promise from his brother that he could keep his titles, his wife would receive a title and the rights of the children would be respected. But the negotiations collapsed, and the Prince of Capua was described as a ‘pretender.’

Further negotiations took place in 1839, and again in 1841. It all these talks, it was suggested that Penelope would have the title of ‘Duchess of Villalta’ or Princess of Mascali’ But, once again, the talks collapsed.

The problem seemed to lie, in part, in the titles given to the Archduchess of Austria, wife of the king’s uncle, the Prince of Salerno, the King’s uncle, and the Princess of Sardinia, wife of the Count of Syracuse, the Prince of Capua’s younger brother. The Bourbon family fretted about being seen to insult the Courts of Vienna and Turin, but Penelope was unwilling to be a mere countess when she could be a princess.

Meanwhile, the Smyths of Ballynatray were worried that Penelope’s claims to any inheritance from Ballynatray that would sustain her lifestyle could be a drain on the family’s finances.

Prince Carlo of Bourbon-Naples, Prince of Capua, his wife Princess Penelope Smyth, Duchess of Mascali, and their daughter Vittoria, Countess of Mascali

Carlo and Penelope left Malta on 22 August 1850 and returned to Italy with their children Francesco and Vittoria. Prince Carlo died in Turin at the age of 50 on 22 April 1862, four months after the death of Penelope’s brother-in-law, Henry Wallis (1790-1862) of Drishane Castle, Millstreet, Co Cork, who had married Ellen Smyth in Saint Mary’s, Youghal, in 1825.

Ferdinand II died in 1859, his son succeeded as King Frances II, but the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies collapsed in 1860 during the Italian war of unification. Shortly after Carlo died in Turin in 1862, Victor Emmanuel II, king of the newly united Italy, formally recognised their marriage and granted Penelope the royal residence of Villa Reale de Marlia near Lucca in Tuscany.

The Duchess di Mascali, as she became, died at the Villa Reale de Marlia in 1882. The tablet erected to her memory is in north aisle of Saint Mary’s Collegiate Church, Youghal.

A plaque in Saint Mary’s recalls a descendant of Ellen Smyth of Ballynatray and Henry Wallis of Drishane Castle, Millstreet (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

The Smyth family has lived in Co Waterford from Elizabethan times, and Ballynatray House, near Youghal, stands on the banks of the River Blackwater, Co Waterford, north of Youghal and south of Lismore.

Sir Richard Smyth of Ballynatray, Co Waterford, a High Sheriff of Co Waterford and became a brother-in-law of Richard Boyle, the 1st Earl of Cork, when he married Mary Boyle in the early 17th century. Smyth was a witness to Sir Walter Raleigh’s sale of lands in Co Cork and Co Waterford to Richard Boyle in 1602, and became a trustee of the new Boyle estates, along with Edmund Colthurst and Edmund Coppinger.

Sir Richard Smyth’s younger son, also Sir Richard Smyth, was a captain at the Battle of Kinsale, while his elder son, Sir Percy Smyth, was knighted in 1629, fought during the rebellion of 1641, and was military governor of Youghal in 1645. His second wife, Isabella Ussher, was a granddaughter of Archbishop Adam Loftus of Dublin.

Percy Smyth’s ‘castellated residence’ was largely destroyed in 1641, and his family later built a larger, Dutch-gabled house in the 1690s.

Percy Smyth’s sons included Boyle Smyth, MP for Tallow, Co Waterford; William Smyth, his heir; and Richard Smyth of Ballynatray.

Richard Smyth of Ballynatray married Alice, daughter and co-heir of Richard Grice of Ballycullane, Co Limerick, and their son, Grice Smyth was the ancestor of the Smyth family of Ballynatray.

Richard Smyth of Ballynatray and Alice Grice were the parents of Grice Smyth of Ballynatray, who married Gertrude Taylor of Burton, Co Cork. Grice Smyth died in 1724, and was succeeded at Ballynatray in turn by his son, Richard Smyth (1706-1768), and his son, also Richard Smyth.

When this Richard died, Ballynatray passed to his brother, Grice Smyth (1762-1816), who built Ballynatray in 1795. The large Palladian house designed by Alexander Dean of Cork incorporated the earlier house.

The house stands on a double bend of the River Blackwater that gives the impression of a large lake. Steep, oak-covered hills slope down on all sides of the house. Ballynatray is 11 bays long and five bays wide, with two storeys over a basement and a ballustraded parapet, originally decorated with elaborate urns. The façade facing the mouth of the River Blackwater has a pedimented breakfront, while the three central bays of the entrance front are deeply recessed and filled with a long, single-storey porch.

The interior was built for entertaining on the grandest scale, with a suite of interconnecting rooms, and some fine early 19th century plasterwork. The hall has a frieze of bull’s heads, the heraldic symbol of the Smyths, and the billiards room has an imaginative cornice of billiards balls and cues. The bedroom floor originally had a curious curvilinear corridor, but this has since been altered.

Grice Smith married Mary Broderick, daughter and co-heir of Henry Mitchell, of Mitchell’s Fort, Co Cork. Their children included Princess Penelope, and Ellen, who married Henry Wallis of Drishane Castle. He died in George’s Street, Limerick, on 18 January 1816, and he is commemorated by yet another memorial in Saint Mary’s Collegiate Church:

‘Sacred to the Memory of Grice Smyth Esquire of Ballinatre (sic) in the county of Waterford who having endured a most painful illness for ten years with perfect resignation to the will of God: departed this life in the City of Limerick; on the 18th Day of January Anno Domini 1816, and in the 51st year of his age.

‘His remains are deposited near this place in the same tomb with those of his ancestors, the Earls of Cork and Burlington.

‘As a brother, husband, parent and friend he was most affectionate, generous and sincere.

‘This monument is erected to his memory by his widow Mary Broderick Smyth, daughter of the late Henry Mitchell, Esquire, of Mitchells Fort, is testimony of her esteem and love.

‘As many as I love I rebuke and chasten, be zealous therefore and repent. Revelations, Chapter III verse xix.’

Penelope was a few months old when her father Grice died in Limerick in 1816. Ballynatray was then inherited by his eldest son, her eldest brother, Richard Smyth (1796-1858). Samuel Lewis describes the house in 1837 as ‘finely situated in a much improved demesne.’

Richard Smyth married the Hon Harriet St Leger, daughter of Hayes St Leger, 2nd Viscount Doneraile. They had no sons, and when Richard died in 1858, Ballynatray was inherited by their only surviving child, Charlotte Mary Smyth.

A memorial to a daughter of Charlotte Smyth and Charles Moore in Saint Mary’s Collegiate Church, Youghal (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

Ten years earlier, in 1848, Charlotte Mary Smyth of Ballynatray had married the Hon Charles William Moore (1826-1898), who became 5th Earl Mount Cashell in 1889. The 1st Earl Mount Cashell, Stephen Moore (1730-1790), had been MP for Lismore, Co Waterford.

When Charlotte inherited Ballynatray, she and Charles assumed the additional name and arms of Smyth. Their first act on inheriting the Ballinatray estate was ‘to forgive every penny of arrears due by the tenants, amounting to several thousand pounds.’ They then had several farms revalued, and reduced many rents.

The former Grice estate of 1,673 acres near Kilmallock, Co Limerick, was advertised for sale in 1861. But Charles William Moore Smyth of Ballinatray owned over 7,000 acres in Co Waterford and 272 acres in Co Limerick in 1870s. He succeeded to the earldom in 1889, on the death of his elder brother, who had spent the previous 15 years in a lunatic asylum in Bristol.

Lord and Lady Mount Cashell were the parents of a son of a son and five daughters. Their only son, Richard Charles More Smyth (1859-1888), was killed at the age of 28 while playing polo in India. His infant son, Claude Stephen William Richard More Smyth (1887-1890), born just weeks earlier, became known as Lord Kilworth when his father succeeded to the earldom, but died just six weeks before his third birthday. Father and son are both remembered in plaques on the west wall, beside the plaque commemorating Princess Penelope on the north wall.

Lady Mount Cashell died in 1892, and her husband, who had changed his name legally to Charles William More in 18889, became engaged to Lady Cowan, the widow of Sir Edward Cowan (1840-1890), a whisky distiller, chairman of the Ulster Bank and former Mayor of Belfast. However, Lord Mount Cashell jilted her on their planned wedding day. It is said she was standing at the door of Saint Anne’s Church, Dawson Street, Dublin, when she received his letter telling her he could not marry her.

Then, a year later, in 1893, Lord Mount Cashell married Florence Cornelius, described dismissively as ‘a peasant girl’ from Queen’s County: he was 67 and she was 26.

When Charlotte died in 1892, once again there was no surviving son to inherit the estate, and Ballynatray and the Moore Park estate near Kilworth, Co Cork, passed to her eldest surviving daughter, Lady Harriette Gertrude Isabella Moore (1849-1904). She had married Colonel John Henry Graham Holroyd in 1872, and they changed their family name to Holroyd-Smyth.

Horace Holroyd-Smyth bequeathed Ballynatray in 1969 to his cousins, the Ponsonby family of Kilcooley Abbey, Co Tipperary, who sold the house to Serge and Henriette Boissevain in the late 1990s. They carried out a major restoration programme and Ballynatray later became the home of Henry Gwyn-Jones. The house and estate are now a wedding venue.

But the one wedding that never took place there was one of the many weddings of Princess Penelope, the woman from Waterford who might have been Queen of Greece or Queen of Belgium had history taken a different twist or turn.

Two memorials tell of two more tragic deaths in the Smyth and Smyth-Moore family (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2021)

06 September 2020

Death and dying in a traditional
icon and by the Bay of Naples



Patrick Comerford

The Church of England, in the Calendar in Common Worship, marks 15 August as a Holy Day with the simple designation ‘Blessed Virgin Mary.’ The Orthodox Church celebrates the day as the Dormition of the Theotokos, and for the Roman Catholic it is the Feast of the Assumption.

Although the Birth of the Virgin Mary is marked in the calendar of the Church of Ireland this month (8 September), many are uncomfortable about commemorations on 15 August, although we usually commemorate saints on the days they are said to have died. Perhaps this discomfort has less to do with post-Reformation debates and more to do with residual memories of how 15 August was used to counter-balance Orange celebrations on 12 July.

The icon of the Dormition was completed by El Greco (Doménikos Theotokópoulos) in Crete, probably before 1567

The Dormition and the Assumption are different names for the same event, the Virgin Mary’s death or departure from earth, although the two feasts do not necessarily have an identical understanding of the event or sequence of events.

But, while the Assumption is only a recent doctrinal innovation in the Roman Catholic tradition, decreed in 1950, the tradition of the Dormition is much older in the Orthodox Church, where the day is a Great Feast and recalls the ‘falling asleep’ or death of the Virgin Mary.

The tradition of the Dormition is associated with a number of places, including Jerusalem, Ephesus and Constantinople. In his guidebook, The Holy Land, the late Jerome Murphy-O’Connor points out that two places in Jerusalem are traditionally associated with the end of the Virgin Mary’s earthly life: a monastery on Mount Zion is the traditional site of her death or falling asleep; and the basilica in the Garden of Gethsemane is said to be the site of her tomb.

However, the first four Christian centuries are silent about the death of the Virgin Mary, and there is no documentary evidence to support claims that the feast of the Dormition was observed in Jerusalem around the time of the Council of Ephesus in 431.

***

An icon of the Dormition by Alexandra Kaouki nears completion in her workshop in Rethymnon, Crete

Traditional Orthodox icons of the Dormition depicting the death of the Virgin Mary incorporate many apocryphal elements or details from writings known as pseudepigrapha. Many icons show the apostles and other saints, including four early Christian writers, gathered around her deathbed, with Christ and the angels waiting above.

The best-known version of this icon is the work of El Greco, or Doménikos Theotokópoulos (1541-1614), painted in Crete probably before 1567.

Alexandra Kaouki at work on her icon in her workshop below the slopes of the Fortezza in Rethymnon

It was my privilege some years ago to watch a new icon on this theme in Orthodoxy being shaped and created by Alexandra Kaouki, perhaps the most talented and innovative iconographer in Crete today, as she worked in her studio below the Venetian fortezza in the in the old town of Rethymnon.

She was creating this new icon for the Church of Our Lady of the Angels, or the Little Church of Our Lady, on a small square in the old town.

It was a careful, slow, step-by-step work in progress, based on El Greco’s celebrated icon. But, as her work progressed, Alexandra made what she describes as ‘necessary corrections’ to allow her to ‘entirely follow the Byzantine rules.’

The icon of the Dormition completed by Alexandra Kaouki for a church in the old town of Rethymnon

In her studio, we discussed why El Greco places three candelabra in front of the bier. Perhaps he is using them as a Trinitarian symbol. However, Alexandra has returned to the traditional depiction of only one to remain true to Byzantine traditions.

How many of the Twelve should be depicted?

Should Saint Thomas be shown, or was he too late?

Why did she omit stories from later developments in the tradition, yet introduce women?

Alexandra completed her icon in time for the Feast of the Dormition in Rethymnon that year.

A missed date with Mrs Fitzherbert

The Hayes Conference Centre in Swanwick, Derbyshire … the planned venue for the USPG conference in July (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

One of the casualties of the Covid-19 pandemic lockdown in Britain has been this year’s annual conference of the Anglican mission agency, USPG, United Society Partners in the Gospel. I have been a trustee of USPG for over five years, and was a council member for many years before that.

In recent years, the conference has tended to take place in the High Leigh Conference Centre in Hertfordshire. But USPG was due to return to the Hayes Conference Centre in Swanwick, Derbyshire, from 20 to 22 July.

The conference, with the theme ‘Rejoice in the Lord always’: God’s People in God’s Mission, was timed to run into the Lambeth Conference of Anglican bishops, from 23 July to 2 August, but that too has been postponed.

Mrs Maria Fitzherbert … went through a secret marriage with the future King George IV

The Hayes has been a Christian conference centre since 1911, and I first attended a conference there in 1976. The main house at Swanwick was once the home of the Fitzherbert Wright family, a branch of the Fitzherbert family whose members, by marriage, included the famous – or infamous – Mrs Fitzherbert.

Maria Anne Fitzherbert (1756-1837) was a twice-widowed Roman Catholic who secretly contracted a marriage with King George IV that was invalid under English civil law. They were married in 1785 when he was Prince of Wales, but the marriage had not received the consent of his father, George III, although her nephew-in-law from her first marriage, Cardinal Thomas Weld, persuaded Pope Pius VII to declare the marriage sacramentally valid.

Maria Fitzherbert was the eldest child of Walter Smythe of Brambridge, Hampshire. Her first husband, Edward Weld, was 16 years her senior and died just three months after their marriage in 1775. She married her second husband, Thomas Fitzherbert (1746-1781) of Swynnerton, Staffordshire, in 1778, but was widowed once again in 1781.

***

Ralph Fitzherbert of Norbury … ancestor of the Fitzherbert family and father-in-law of Thomas Comberford

A miniature portrait of Mrs Fitzherbert was among the 1,100 lots auctioned earlier this year at Matthews Auction Rooms in Kells, Co Meath. The catalogue described her as a ‘member, through previous marriage, of the Meath landowning Fitzherbert family.’ It went on to say, ‘she was a beauty of her age and the wife of King George IV, [to] whom she bore two children.’

However this portrait came into the Fitzherbert family in Co Meath, they were not descended from Mrs Fitzherbert. Indeed, any Fitzherbert living in Co Meath at the time of her secret marriage to the future king could only have been a fifth or fourth cousin of her second husband, Thomas Fitzherbert.

The lake at Swanwick … the estate was once owned by the Fitzherbert Wright family (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

On the other hand, there are many interesting connections between the Comerford and Comberford families and the Fitzherbert family in Staffordshire. The supposed Comberford ancestor of my branch of the family was Judge Richard Comberford (1512-ca 1547), a brother of Canon Henry Comberford (1499-1586), Precentor of Lichfield Cathedral.

They were the sons of Thomas Comberford (1472-1532) of Comberford, who became a member of the Guild of Saint Mary and Saint John the Baptist in Lichfield in 1495, a year or two before he married his second wife, Dorothy Fitzherbert, daughter of Ralph Fitzherbert of Norbury, near Ashbourne, Derbyshire.

This makes Richard Comberford a nephew of Thomas Fitzherbert, Precentor of Lichfield, William Fitzherbert, Chancellor of Lichfield, and Sir Anthony Fitzherbert, ancestor of Maria Fitzherbert’s second husband and of the Irish Fitzherberts.

There are signs and symbols of the Fitzherbert and Wright families throughout the house at Swanwick (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

There are no portraits of Mrs Fitzherbert in the house at Swanwick (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

The Fitzherbert Wright family of Swanwick was also ancestors of the Maynell family, who inherited a large painting once in Swanwick that was donated some years ago to USPG. The painting raised £550,000 and helped support work among refugees in Greece by USPG and the Anglican chaplaincy in Athens.

However, I don’t know if there ever was any portrait of Mrs Fitzherbert in Swanwick.

See Naples and … but don’t die

The Bay of Naples … who swims north of Naples when there is an ‘R’ in the month? (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

I heard once of a grand old lady who was asked late one year whether she had gone swimming that weekend.

‘No, my dear,’ she replied tersely. ‘I never swim north of Naples when there’s an R in the month.’

The saying ‘See Naples and Die’ is said to have been coined when the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies – Naples and Sicily – was at the height of its golden age under the rule of the Bourbon dynasty.

Naples and Sicily experienced a ‘golden age’ during the rule of the Bourbon dynasty (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

Pompeii and Vesuvius are among the tourist attractions at the Bay of Naples (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

The phrase was popularised in Northern Europe 200 years ago when it was quoted by Goethe in Italian Journey (1816/1817), where he quotes it as: Vedi Napoli e poi muori.

Goethe visited Naples and Sicily for three months, from February to May 1787, when he climbed Vesuvius, visited Pompeii, and travelled on to Taormina and other places in Sicily.

During that tour, Goethe was fascinated by the lifestyle of people: ‘Naples is a paradise; everyone lives in a state of intoxicated self-forgetfulness, myself included. I seem to be a completely different person whom I hardly recognise. Yesterday, I thought to myself: Either you were mad before, or you are mad now.’

The phrase quoted by Goethe earned a new popularity in Italy with a 1950s B-rated movie with the same title.

***

I have seen the Bay of Naples, Vesuvius and Pompeii and travelled through Sicily, visiting Taormina and Mount Etna. But my planned visit to Italy this year was to neither. Instead, I had hoped to visit Puglia in June, with a few days in Bari – also known for its links with Saint Nicholas of Santa Claus fame.

I was booked to spend a night in one of the trulli or traditional dry-stone huts with conical roofs, in the town of Alberobello. Unfortunately, the Covid-19 travel restrictions frustrated those travel plans too – among many others – along with my hopes of swimming south of Naples before there was an ‘R’ in the month.

Goethe visited Taormina in Sicily during his tour of the Bourbon Kingdom of Naples and Sicily (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

My GP tells me swimming is good for my sarcoidosis, a condition on my lungs first diagnosed about 12 years ago. The first symptoms included a persistent cough, minor infections on my legs and loss of breath and balance.

It was embarrassing to preside at the Eucharist in the chapel of the Church of Ireland Theological Institute, hoping not to break into an unexpected spasm of coughing, or to find myself bowed over in the chapel seats, unable to join in singing hymns. The symptoms were further complicated when I was diagnosed with a severe Vitamin B12 deficiency.

In the years since, I have been through what seems like every hospital south of the Liffey for tests and procedures. Thankfully, my GP and consultants have brought everything under control. Although I still take an inhaler twice a day, you might not notice any symptoms – though I still worries about a coughing spasm on flights or public transport that fellow passengers may fear is an indication of Covid-19.

Hopefully, my sarcoidosis symptoms remain under control. In the meantime, I hope the Coronavirus recedes and that a vaccine or an immunisation is found.

I suppose I shall have to wait until Christmas before I see Saint Nicholas of Bari. But it would be good to swim south of Naples again – whether or not there is an ‘R’ in the month from now on. And I still hope to see the Bay of Naples once again.

This feature was first published in the August 2020 edition of the 'Church Review', the Dublin and Glendalough diocesan magazine

‘When life gives you lemons’ … do not give up on returning to Naples (Photograph: Patrick Comerford)

05 September 2020

From icons in Crete and
musings in Swanwick to
swimming in Naples

A photo-spread in the September 2020 edition of the ‘Church Review’ (Photographs: Patrick Comerford)

Patrick Comerford

My monthly column is given a three-page spread in the September 2020 edition of the Church Review, the magazine of the Diocese of Dublin and Glendalough, edited by the Revd Nigel Waugh.

In this month’s feature, I discuss a variety of topics, from the Feast of the Dormition or the Assumption, a feast almost unknown in the Church of Ireland and with a variety of interpretations and emphases in other traditions; Mrs Fitzherbert and the place of the king’s mistress in a number of family trees; and swimming and dying in the Bay of Naples.

Some of these topics have been inspired by a missed holiday in Greece this summer – I might have been returning from Thessaloniki yesterday (4 September 2020) – and the cancellation of this year’s annual conference of the Anglican mission agency USPG (United Society Partners in the Gospel). The conference had been planned for July at the Hayes Conference Centre in Swanwick, once a family home of a Derbyshire branch of the Fitzherbert family.

But there is more to tease the mind in the Church Review, which is being distributed in churches tomorrow (6 September 2020).

Rather than steal my ow thunder, come back and read this column on this blog tomorrow afternoon (6 September 2020).

11 July 2013

Harriet Monsell – a Mother Superior with
Limerick & Killaloe connections

I flew back form Naples to Dublin yesterday [10 July 2013] to find the following full-page article, with its connections with Naples, is published on p 17 of the current [July/August 2013] edition of Newslink, the diocesan magazine of the Diocese of Limerick and Killaloe, edited by Joc Sanders:

Harriet Monsell – a Mother Superior with
Limerick & Killaloe connections


by Rev. Patrick Comerford

Editor: Patrick has kindly given his permission to reprint this from a post dated 26th March 2013 on his inspiring blog revpatrickcomerford.blogspot.ie.

It is of great local interest, and an example of the lives of Christian sacrifice to which members of our diocese have been called over the years.


Harriet Monsell (1811-1883) is one of the few Irish-born women to be remembered in the Calendar of Saints in Common Worship in the Church of England, her commemoration falling on 26th March.

Harriet Monsell was the founder of the Community of Saint John Baptist, an order of Anglican nuns dedicated to social service. By the time she died on Easter Day, 25 March 1883, the order had numerous houses, including houses in England, India and the Americas.

The Hon Harriet O’Brien was born in 1811, the third daughter and the eighth of nine children of Sir Edward O’Brien (1773-1826) of Dromoland Castle, Co Clare. Her father was the MP for Ennis in the Irish House of Commons (1795-1800) and MP for Co Clare in the Westminster Parliament (1802-1826), until he resigned the seat for health reasons.

When Edward O’Brien died in 1837, his widow Charlotte (née Smith), who was a devout Anglican, moved to London with their four daughters, then to Dublin and to other places. The second daughter, Grace, never married, but the other three daughters, including Harriet, married Anglican priests: Catherine married Charles Harris, Bishop of Gibraltar; and Anne married Canon Arthur Martineau of Saint Paul’s Cathedral, London. Of the four sons, Lucius O’Brien (1800-1872) succeeded his father as MP for Co Clare and later inherited a family title as the 13th Lord Inchiquin; while William Smith O’Brien (1803-1864), was a leader of the Young Ireland revolution in 1848, was tried for treason, deported to Tasmania, but later returned to live in Co Limerick.

On 21 September 1839, Harriet married Charles Henry Monsell (1815-1850) while he was studying and receiving medical treatment at the University of Dublin. They moved to Oxford the following year. There, while he completed his studies, they came under the influence of the Oxford Movement. Charles was the third son of the Ven Thomas Bewley Monsell, Archdeacon of Derry, and after his ordination he became his father’s curate. Later, he became a canon of Saint Mary’s Cathedral, Limerick.
Harriet Monsell as a girl

Because of his continuing ill health, the couple spent much of their later married life in Europe, most often in Naples.

After Canon Charles Monsell died in 1850, Harriet continued her affiliation with the Oxford Movement. She began working in the railroad and army village of Clewer among former prostitutes and unmarried mothers at a House of Mercy. The house had been founded some years earlier by Mrs Mariquita Tennant, who was a Spanish refugee, a convert to Anglicanism and a clergyman’s widow. However, due to ill health, Mrs Tennant moved to nearby Windsor, where she soon died.

Harriet Monsell moved to Clewer with her sister Catherine and her husband, the Revd Charles Harris, later Bishop of Gibraltar.

After Charles Harris moved to another parish in 1852, Canon Thomas Thellusson Carter became the Rector of Clewer and the Warden of the House of Mercy. Soon, Harriet Monsell professed religious vows with two other women, and became Mother Superior of one of the first Anglican religious orders since the Reformation.

The women lived according to a rule attributed to Saint Augustine of Hippo and at first they were called the Sisters of Mercy. They later changed their name to reflect their inspiration from Saint John the Baptist’s call to penitence. During the new order’s first five years, it expanded from assisting about 30 marginalised women to dedicating a building to serve about 80 women.

As the Community of Saint John Baptist, the nuns were guided by Mother Harriet, with her energy and humour. They extended their original mission to running about 40 institutions, including mission houses in parishes, as well as orphanages, schools and hospitals.

Mother Monsell, founder of the Community of Saint John Baptist

Mother Harriet retired to Folkestone in 1875 for health reasons, although she was occasionally able to visit the communities she founded.

She died on the morning of 25th March 1883, which was both the Feast of the Annunciation and Easter Day that year. Because of this coincidence, her commemoration in the Calendar of the Church of England has been moved to 26 March.

The order she founded continues to this day. They will shortly move to a new house and Education Centre being built at Ripon College Cuddesdon, near Oxford, which will be known as Harriet Monsell House. Their presence at the college “is eagerly awaited in order to complement our rhythm of prayer and help deepen our spiritual formation as a community.”

Photographs reproduced by kind permission of the Mother Superior of the Community of St John the Baptist, Begbroke, Oxford.

10 July 2013

Finding cloistered seclusion
in the busy bustle of Sorrento

The cloisters beside the Chiesa di San Francesco are a haven away from the bustle of tourism in Sorrento (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

Patrick Comerford

The final day of the seven-day programme on the Sorrento Coast was billed as a “full day at leisure, to relax and take in those amazing views ... and practice your Italian.” There was an optional tour of an ice cream factory, with the promise of a delicious gelato to enjoy. But instead I spent the morning at the pool, and noon had passed before two of us caught a local train on the Circumvesuviana line that runs from Naples for one last visit to Sorrento.

Sorrento is a small town with only 16,500 people, but dates back to the Greeks and to the Romans, who knew it as Surrentum. The Greek historian Diodorus Siculus said Sorrento was founded by Liparus, son of Ausonus and grandson of Odysseus and Circe.

In classical times, there were temples of Athena and of the Sirens. This was the only temple of the Sirens in the Greek world, and may explain the origins of the town’s name.

In the 19th century, Sorrento became one of the most desirable tourist destinations in Italy, visited by Byron, Keats, Goethe, Ibsen and Walter Scott. But today it is a bustling busy tourist centre for visitors on their way to or from the Sorrento Coast, the Amlafi Coast, Capri and its neighbouring islands, or even Vesuvius, Pompeii and the Bay of Naples.

The square in front of the station commemorates Giambattista De Curtis, who wrote the song Torna a Surriento (‘Come Back to Sorrento’) with his brother Ernesto De Curtis.

The Piazza Tasso in the centre of Sorrento is at the heart of life for most tourists in Sorrento (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

It was a short walk from the rail station to Piazza Tasso in the centre of Sorrento, where we had dinner on Sunday evening on the busy terrace of the popular Fauno Bar. The square is named after Sorrento’s own poet Torquato Tosse (1544-1595), author of the Gerusalemme Liberata. The square has statues to both Tasso and Saint Anthony, and opposite the Fauno Bar stands the baroque Church del Carmine.

The Sedil Dominova ... now a workingmen’s club but once the seat of Sorrento’s ruling nobility (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

From Piazza Tasso, we squeezed our way through the bustling boutiques and tourist shops that line the narrow Via Cesareo, selling limoncello, T-shirts, leather bags, postcards and souvenirs.

At the corner of the narrow Via Cesareo and Via Giuliani, in the heart of old Sorrento, in a tiny square called Largo Dominova is the beautiful Sedil Dominova, with the campanile of Sorrento Cathedral on Corso Italia in the background.

This “new seat of the nobility” is a unique piece of slowly decaying gentility, first built in the 14th century, and rebuilt in the 16th century. The building once belonged to the sedile (seat) – effectively the town council – and it there the nobles met and deliberated and decided the course of civic life of Sorrento.

Inside, extravagant frescoes decorate the Sedil Dominova (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

It is an open loggia with expansive arches, balustrades, and a green-and-yellow-tile cupola. It is covered with extravagant frescoes from the 18th century, with amazing trompe l’oeil columns and the coats of arms of the noble families, including the D’Angio and Durazzo families.

Sorrento’s nobles were deprived of their civic role by King Ferdinand IV, the Bourbon King of Naples and Sicily – bent on revenge, perhaps, because he had been deposed twice: once by the revolutionary Parthenopean Republic in 1799, and again by Napoleon in 1805.

This building is last surviving example of the ancient seats of nobility in the Campania region. Today, it is a workingmen’s club, the Societa Operaia di Mutuo Soccorso, with pensioners sitting on the terrace beneath the dome playing cards and sipping coffee. One loud-mouthed tourist – making a virtue of his tiny knowledge of Italian as he read the sign for the working men’s club – exclaimed to his companions: “Oh look, I’ve found the opera house.”

We had lunch on the tiny square that is Largo Dominova in the pizzeria that is named after the Sedil Dominova, and then walked down Via Giuliano to Via San Francesco.

The cloisters in the Franciscan convent have been built in a hybrid mixture of architectural styles (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

From the outside, the Church of Saint Francis (Chiesa di San Francesco) looks like a modern church its simple white marble façade was rebuilt in 1926. However, the church is much older, and was founded in the eighth century as an oratory by Saint Anthony, the patron saint of Sorrento, who first dedicated the church to Saint Martin of Tours.

In the 14th century, Franciscan friars transformed this into a church, and it was later rebuilt in the baroque style and embellished with stucco decorations.

Beside the church, the Franciscan convent has a cloister with a hybrid mixture of many architectural styles, from the fourth to the 16th century: rounded arches on two sides, with Arabic ones on the other two.

These tranquil, secluded cloisters, with overhanging bougainvillea, colourful summer flowers and tree-shaded corners, have a quiet, contemplative environment. As we arrived, the cloisters were being prepared for a wedding, but they are also used for musical evenings and concerts.

Beach huts at the Marina Piccola below the Villa Comunale (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

From the convent and the cloisters, we strolled on into the Villa Comunale, with its gardens overlooking the Marina Piccola and views out across the Bay of Naples. Below us, there were tinny beaches, swimmers, people on pedaloes and in kayaks, and – that most English of seaside institutions – rows of beach huts.

We then walked back to the cathedral, and up to the Bastioni di Parsono, between Corso Italia and Via del Aranci, to see a surviving section of Sorrento’s old Roman walls and bastion.

The courtyard inside the 18th century Casa Grande Correale or Correale Mansion on Via Santa Maria della Pieta with its decorated majolica walls (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

We made our way to Piazza Tasso through Via Santa Maria della Pieta, another narrow street running parallel to Corso Italia, lined with hidden elegant villas and mansions, and from there to the station and Circumvesuviano back to Seiano.

We entertained until the second or third station by a group of young buskers. Back in Seiano in the evening, we had dinner once again in Ma che Bonte, looking out across the Bay of Naples at the outline of Mount Vesuvius and at the pink, orange and purple streaks left in the sky after the sun had set.

Looking out at the Bay of Naples and the outline of Mount Vesuvius during dinner in Ma che Bonte in Seiano (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

06 July 2013

Herculaneum provides an insight into
life before the eruption of Vesuvius

The frescoes in the richly decorated east wall of the House of Neptune and Amphitrite (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

Patrick Comerford

On the programme for this week in the Sorrento area, Friday [5 July 2013] was listed as a “Day at Leisure,” or a free day to relax at the hotel pool, or to explore the bustling town of Sorrento, with its shops, cafés, restaurants and views, with a transfer to and from the town centre.

Instead, almost two dozen people signed up for a morning’s visit to Herculaneum, a town that is less well known than Pompeii, but which gives a more intimate opportunity to understand the devastation and human tragedy of the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in the year 79 AD.

Herculaneum is smaller than Pompeii, but the site is more intimate and more accessible (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

The enclosed site at Herculaneum is close to the modern town of Ercolano, south-east of Naples. Compared to Pompeii, this was a small city, of about 20 hectares and 4,000. Only a tiny proportion of the site – about 4.5 hectares – is accessible to the public, but in many ways this a far more tangible, and so much less cluttered a site than neighbouring Pompeii, which is better known and has a constant flow of tourists and sightseers each day.

In Herculaneum, it is easy to imagine how the ordinary people lived and worked, shopped and worshipped, relaxed and were governed.

There are private houses with gardens and courtyards; shops and pubs; men’s and women’s baths; public fountains and latrines; boarding houses

The Hall of the Augustals is richly decorated with frescoes depicting scenes from the legends of Hercules (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

The Hall of the Augustals has frescoes depicting scenes from the legends of Hercules, including a depiction of Hercules accompanied by Jupiter, Juno and Minerva; and an illustration of the battle between Hercules and the Etruscan god Acheelo.
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The House of Neptune and Amphitrite takes its name from the themes in the mosaics in the richly decorated east wall. The food shop next door almost looks like it is closed for a siesta and ready to reopen in a few hours’ times.

A house with overhanging eaves on a street in Herculaneum (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

The Trellis House is a boarding house with an overhanging balcony. The House of the Wooden Partition displays the comfortable lifestyle of the prosperous ruling class.

Outside the Cucumas Shop, you can still see a listing with the different prices for the four varieties of wine once on sale here. At the large taberna or pub, it was possible to realise how like Europeans today these people were in so many aspects of life and lifestyle.

We were back at the Grand Hotel Moon Valley shortly after mid-day, and two of us took the Circumvesuviana from Seiano to Vico Equesne, where we strolled through the streets and along the sea front, looking down at the beaches and across the bay to Naples.

Piazza Umberto I is a quiet and shaded corner of Vico Equesne (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)

Sadly, the two churches we tried to visit were not open, not was the famous Da Gigino pizzeria, where the claim to fame is that there they invented the idea of “Pizza by the Metre.”

We made our way to a shady corner of Piazza Umberto I, with its fountain, foliage and trees, and had lunch in Wembley, a pizzeria on the corner of the square, before returning to the hotel to swim and enjoy the late afternoon sunshine.

Looking out on the Bay of Naples in Vico Equesne (Photograph: Patrick Comerford, 2013)